DROPS / 136 / 25

Country Dream by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS tunic in ”Safran”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no E-182
Yarn group A
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
Colour no 06, denim blue: 400-450-500-550-600-650 g

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 mm - or size needed to get 19 sts x 10 rows = 10 x 10 cm (1 repetition of diagram M.1 = width approx. 5 cm and 6 cm vertically).

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.15 £ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 1.15 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
TR ROWS:
Beg every tr row with 3 ch (not counted as 1st tr), work 1 tr in 1st st, then 1 tr in every st, turn.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1. 1 repetition of diagram M.1 = 10 tr in width and 7 rows vertically.

DECREASE TIP:
Work 1 tr but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next tr but on last pull through, pull thread through all sts on hook = 1 st dec.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st in each side of piece by working 2 tr in 1st and last st on row.
---------------------------------------------------------

BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth. Loosely work 102-102-122-122-142-142 ch on hook size 3.5 mm with Safran. Work 1st row (= RS) as follows: Work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, then 1 tr in every ch, turn = 99-99-119-119-139-139 tr (= 9-9-11-11-13-13 repetitions of diagram M.1 + 9 sts). REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
Then work 3-3-4-4-5-5 TR ROWS - Read explanation above = 4-4-5-5-6-6 tr rows vertically. Continue to work diagram M.1 as follows:
ROW 1: 1 ch, 1 dc in 1st tr, * 3 ch, skip the next 3 tr, in next tr work as follows: 1 tr, 3 ch, 1 tr, then 3 ch, skip the next 3 tr, 1 dc in each of the next 3 tr (= 3 dc) *, repeat from *-* the rest of row. When repeating from *-* the last time work 3 ch, skip the next 3 tr and work 1 dc in last tr, turn.
ROW 2: 1 ch, 1 dc in 1st dc, * 3 ch, skip next ch-loop, 7 tr in next ch-loop (between 2 tr), 3 ch, 1 dc in the middle dc from 1ST ROW *, repeat from *-* the rest of row. When repeating from *-* the last time work 3 ch and 1 dc in last dc, turn.
ROW 3: 1 ch, 1 dc in 1st dc, 4 ch, * 1 dc in each of the next 7 tr (= 7 dc), 5 ch *, repeat from *-* the rest of row, finish with 4 ch and 1 dc in last dc, turn.
ROW 4: 3 ch, 1 tr in 1st ch-loop, * 3 ch, 1 dc in the middle of the 3 dc from 3RD ROW (= 3 dc), 3 ch, [1 tr, 3 ch, 1 tr] in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* the rest of row. When repeating from *-* the last time work 3 ch and 1 tr in last ch-loop, turn.
ROW 5: 3 ch, 3 tr in 1st ch-loop, * 3 ch, 1 dc in the middle dc from 4TH ROW, 3 ch, skip next ch-loop, 7 tr in next ch-loop (between 2 tr) *, repeat from *-* the rest of row. When repeating from *-* the last time work 3 ch, 2 tr in last ch-loop and 1 tr in 3rd ch from 4TH ROW, turn.
ROW 6: 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 3 tr (= 3 dc), * 5 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 7 tr (= 7 dc) *, repeat from *-* the rest of row. When repeating from *-* the last time work 1 dc in each of the last 3 tr (= 3 dc), turn.
ROW 7: 1 ch, 1 dc in 1st dc, * 4 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 4 ch, 1 dc in each of the middle 3 dc from 6TH ROW (= 3 dc) *, repeat from *-* the rest of row. When repeating from *-* the last time work 4 ch and 1 dc in last dc, turn.
Then work 1 dc row as follows: 1 ch, 1 dc in 1st dc, * 4 dc in next ch-loop, 3 dc in next ch-loop, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc *, repeat from *-* the rest of row. When repeating from *-* the last time, work 1 dc in last dc = 99-99-119-119-139-139 dc. Work another 4-4-5-5-6-6 tr rows, then diagram M.1 1 time vertically, and then 1 dc row the same way - while AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st at the end of row - Read DECREASE TIP above = 98-98-118-118-138-138 sts. Piece now measures approx. 20-20-22-22-24-24 cm.
Then work 2-3-2-3-2-3 tr rows (piece measures approx. 22-23-24-25-26-27 cm). On next row dec 4 sts evenly on row = 94-94-114-114-134-134 tr. Continue with tr rows until piece measures 27-28-29-31-32-33 cm. On next row, inc 1 st in each side of piece - Read INCREASE TIP above. Repeat inc one more time when piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm. When piece measures 40-41-42-44-45-46 cm, inc 1 st at end of row = 99-99-119-119-139-139 tr.
When piece measures 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm, work from RS as follows: Diagram M.1 1 time and 1 dc row as before. NOTE: Insert a marker in each side of piece on 1st row in diagram M.1 (armhole beg here). Continue with tr rows until piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm.
Then work 1 tr row over the outermost 35-34-43-42-51-50 sts in each side (i.e. do not work over the middle 29-31-33-35-37-39 sts (= neck), then dec 1 st on next row towards the neck = 34-33-42-41-50-49 sts remain on shoulder. Cut and fasten the thread, piece measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm.

FRONT PIECE:
Work as back piece until piece measures 42-44-45-47-48-50 cm.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
On next row from RS work vent as follows: Work 49-49-59-59-69-69 tr (= 4-4-5-5-6-6 repetitions of diagram + 9 sts), turn. Continue with tr rows. When piece measures 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm, work diagram M.1 (beg from RS) 1 time vertically. NOTE: Insert a marker in the left side of piece (seen from RS) on 1st row in diagram M.1 (armhole beg here). Then work 1 dc row as before = 49-49-59-59-69-69 dc. On next row from RS work neck as follows: Work until 8-8-9-9-10-10 sts remain on row, turn. Then dec on every row towards the neck as follows: Dec 2 sts 2 times - Read DECREASE TIP above, 1 st 3-4-4-5-5-6 times = 34-33-42-41-50-49 sts remain on shoulder. Continue until piece measures 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm, cut and fasten the thread.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 50-50-60-60-70-70 tr. On next row dec 1 st at beg of row = 49-49-59-59-69-69 tr. Work as left front piece but reversed.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth. Work 42-42-42-52-52-52 ch on hook size 3.5 mm. Work 1st row (= RS) as follows: Work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, then 1 tr in every ch, turn = 39-39-39-49-49-49 tr (= 3-3-3-4-4-4 repetitions of diagram M.1 + 9 sts), turn. Then work 2 tr rows = 3 tr rows vertically. Then work diagram M.1 1 time and 1 dc row = 39-39-39-49-49-49 dc. On next row work tr - while AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st in each side of piece. Continue with tr rows and repeat inc every 4½-3½-2½-3½-2½-2½ cm a total of 9-11-13-10-12-13 times = 57-61-65-69-73-75 sts. Continue until piece measures 49-50-46-47-43-44 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of broader shoulder width), cut and fasten the thread.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves between markers in each side. Sew sleeve and side seams in one.

CROCHET EDGE - BODY:
Work along the bottom edge of tunic as follows:
ROUND 1: Beg in left side seam, work 1 ch, 1 dc in every tr - AT THE SAME TIME inc 2 dc evenly on round = 200-200-240-240-280-280 dc (no of sts divisible by 8), finish with 1 sl st in 1st dc.
ROUND 2: 1 ch, 1 dc in 1st dc, * 3 ch, skip 3 dc, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 3 ch, skip the last 3 dc and work 1 sl st in 1st dc.
ROUND 3: 1 ch, in 1st ch-loop work as follows: 1 dc, 3 ch, 1 dc, * in next ch-loop work as follows: 3 tr, 3 ch, 1 sl st in 1st ch, 3 tr, in next ch-loop work as follows: 1 dc, 3 ch, 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 1st dc, cut and fasten the thread.

CROCHET EDGE - SLEEVE:
Work an edge around bottom edge of sleeve as follows:
Size S - L
ROUND 1: Beg in sleeve seam, work 1 ch, 1 dc in every tr - AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st at end of round = 40-40-40 dc (no of sts divisible by 8), finish with 1 sl st in 1st dc.
ROUND 2: 1 ch, 1 dc in 1st dc, * 3 ch, skip 3 dc, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 3 ch, skip the last 3 dc and work 1 sl st in 1st dc.
ROUND 3: 1 ch, in 1st ch-loop work as follows: 1 dc, 3 ch, 1 dc, * in next ch-loop work as follows: 3 tr, 3 ch, 1 sl st in 1st ch, 3 tr, in next ch-loop work as follows: 1 dc, 3 ch, 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 1st dc, cut and fasten the thread.
Size XL - XXXL:
ROUND 1: Beg in sleeve seam, work 1 ch, 1 dc in every tr - AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st at end of round = 48-48-48 dc (no of sts divisible by 8), finish with 1 sl st in 1st dc.
Work 2ND and 3RD round as size S - L.
Repeat on the edge of the other sleeve.

CROCHET EDGE - NECK:
Work an edge back and forth along the vent and neck edge as follows:
ROW 1: Beg at the bottom of vent mid front, work 1 ch, 21-21-21-17-17-17 dc along vent on right front piece (no of sts divisible by 4 + 1), then 83-83-91-91-99-99 dc along neck edge, finish with 21-21-21-17-17-17 dc along vent on left front piece = 125-125-133-125-133-133 dc in total, turn.
ROW 2: 1 ch, 1 dc in 1st dc, * 3 ch, skip 3 dc, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the rest of row, turn.
ROW 3: 1 ch, in 1st ch-loop work as follows: 1 dc, 3 ch, 1 dc, * in next ch-loop work as follows: 3 tr, 3 ch, 1 sl st in 1st ch, 3 tr, in next ch-loop work as follows: 1 dc, 3 ch, 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the rest of row, cut and fasten the thread.

Diagram

= ch
= dc
= tr
= 1st row starts here


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 136-25) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (30)

Elly 09.10.2017 - 18:05:

Na het lezen van de opmerkingen kom ik er toch niet helemaal uit. Ben nu bij de hals en als ik 9 st. overhou en daarna het werk keer en verder haak volgens patroon, hou ik een hoek over in de V hals. komt dat bij de afwerking van de hals goed? wil graag zoals op de foto een V hals maken in de trui. Hoor graag of dit klopt.

DROPS Design 11.10.2017 kl. 22:03:

Hallo Elly, Voor de V-hals haak je tot de middelste steek van de vorige toer en dan keer je. Ik weet niet welke maat je haakt, maar bijvoorbeeld voor maat S heb je op dat moment 99 steken op de toer en je haakt 49 steken. Als je straks voor de andere helft ook 49 steken haakt kom je op 98 steken uit. Geen hoek dus, maar 1 steek midden waar niet in gehaakt wordt.

Godeau 27.01.2016 - 10:07:

Bonjour, je suis partie sur une taille M qui est trop large mais bien dans la longueur. est-il possible que je travail trop large (mon échantillon était pourtant bon) et dans ce cas est-il possible de travailler avec un crochet n°3? et pas assez de laine pourtant prévu pour une taille L. dans l'attente de votre réponse. Cordialement PS: merci pour vos super modèles

DROPS Design 27.01.2016 kl. 10:41:

Bonjour Mme Godeau, pensez à bien crocheter avec la même tension que celle de votre échantillon, il est facile de relâcher sa tension en cours d'ouvrage - ajustez la taille de votre crochet si nécessaire pour bien avoir le même échantillon, et vérifiez bien votre taille à partir des mesures du schéma. Bon crochet!

Heather Keener 12.01.2016 - 23:46:

I'm working on the front-left neckline. My piece (is a Med.) DECREASE's: Do they occur on the RS only or is it every row? *dec 2 dc on WS, dec 2 dc on RS; at the neck. = 2 rows leaves me with 37 dc. *dec 1 dc on each of next 4 rows at the neckline. = 33 dc repeat 33 dc until piece measures 64 cm.

DROPS Design 13.01.2016 kl. 10:08:

Dear Mrss Keener, that's correct, you dec every row towards neckline, ie both from WS and from RS. Happy crocheting!

Caitlan 19.10.2014 - 21:21:

I'm a little confused by the size chart for this pattern. As it seems that the bust size is listed as the same for both large and xl. the 38" small medium would definitely be too small, but 47" seems huge for my 41 inch bust. I am about a size fourteen petite in regular clothing, what size would you recommend?

DROPS Design 20.10.2014 kl. 10:31:

Dear Caitlan, this tunic is worked a bit loose, if you want something fitter, you will have to adjust to your size. Your DROPS Store may help you if required. Happy crocheting!

Thea 25.05.2014 - 21:18:

Ik snap de beschrijving van de hals niet helemaal. Na het telpatroon ( dus na de vaste toer) staat er: haak tot er 8 st over zijn op de toer, hoe bedoelen jullie dat?

DROPS Design 27.05.2014 kl. 12:06:

Hoi Thea. Je hebt 49 v op de toer en haakt dan de volgende toer van de goede kant tot er nog 8 st over zijn (= dus je hebt 41 v gehaakt). Keer het werk.

Mil Chimley 21.12.2013 - 18:36:

Is there a size chart available to show what sizes S,M,L,XL,XXL,XXL refer to please?

DROPS Design 27.12.2013 kl. 13:08:

Dear Mrs Chimley, you will find at the bottom of the page (end of written pattern) a measurement chart with all measurements in cm. Happy crocheting!

Sarah 01.10.2013 - 18:38:

Ich komme jetzt an der Stelle nicht weiter, in der es am Halsauschnitt wie folgt gehen soll: 2 mal 2M., 3 mal 1 M. Soll ich da 4 Maschen zusammenfassen oder übrig lassen und wie ist die Verteilung auf die Reihen? Das verstehe ich nicht ganz. Liebe Dank für die Rückmeldung!

DROPS Design 02.10.2013 kl. 09:54:

Liebe Sarah, die Maschen werden durch Zusammenhäkeln abgenommen, damit keine "Treppe" entsteht, also über 4 M je 2 zusammenhäkeln = 2 M abgenommen. Es wird in jeder R abgenommen (siehe Anleitung).

Willy Van Bommel-Drissen 11.09.2013 - 15:17:

Wat is die uitleg van jullie supergoed, zelfs ik snap het!!! Met vriendelijke groeten

Hordijk 08.04.2013 - 00:14:

Geachte mevrouw, Is er geen omschrijving voor een V-hals? Zoals duidelijk te zien is op het voorbeeld? Een V-hals bij het M1-patroon is veel mooier dan een split. Kunt u mij hiervoor een instructie leveren? Met vriendelijke groet en dank.

DROPS Design 08.04.2013 kl. 19:16:

In het patroon staat hoe u de hals moet haken. Door de beschrijving te volgen vormt u een v-hals. Bij het afwerken haakt u ook een rand om de hals om deze helemaal af te maken.

Kati 23.01.2013 - 12:57:

Kiitos selvennyksestä. Eli kavennukset vaativat 10 kerrosta yhteensä. Ongelmana on myös se, että minulla tuon kuvion ja olkapään väliin jää vain 9 kerrosta, täytynee kaventaa vähän nopeammin.

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 136-25

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.