DROPS / 138 / 29

DROPS 138-29 by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS bolero with lace pattern in ”Cotton Light”. Size: S - XXXL.

Tags: boleros, lace, sideways,
DROPS design: Pattern no CL-008
Yarn group B
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
Colour no 01, off white:
150-150-200-200-250-250 g

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 18 sts x 30 rows in diagram M.1 = 10 x 10 cm with Cotton Light.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.00 £ /50g
DROPS Cotton Light uni colour DROPS Cotton Light uni colour 1.00 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 3.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Row 1: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K 1.
Row 2: K over P and P over K. Repeat 2nd row.

See diagram M.1. Diagram M.1 A = 3 sts, diagram M.1 B = 6 sts, diagram M.1 C = 4 sts. The diagrams show the pattern from RS.

Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 59-59-65-65-71-71 sts on needle size 4 mm with Cotton Light.
Work in moss st - Read explanation above - for approx. 2½ cm.
Work next row from RS as follows: 5 sts in moss st, work diagram M.1 A 1 time (= 3 sts), then diagram M.1 B until 9 sts remain on needle, work diagram M.1 C 1 time (= 4 sts), and finish with 5 sts in moss st. Continue with diagram M.1 and 5 sts in moss st in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures approx. 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm (finish with last row in diagram M.1), work in moss st over all sts. Continue in moss st for approx. 2½ cm (piece now measures approx. 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm), loosely cast off all sts.

Sew tog for sleeves as follows (see chart): Place spot a against spot b and sew edge to edge from cast on edge and 10 cm in towards the middle. Place spot c against spot d and sew edge to edge from cast off edge and 10 cm in towards the middle.


= K from RS, P from WS
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= knitting direction
= spot a

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 138-29) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (36)

Christina 16.05.2020 - 16:12:

Hallo! Dieses Muster ist wirklich schön, ich stricke dieses Teil gerade und frage mich, ob es möglich ist, die Ärmel zu verlängern? Könnte ich das Strickstück bspw. 20 cm länger machen und dann auf jeder Seite entsprechend mehr zusammen nähen, um längere Ärmel zu erhalten? Funktioniert das? Danke!

DROPS Design 18.05.2020 kl. 08:05:

Liebe Christina, wahrscheinlich können Sie die Ärmel verlängern, beachten Sie nur, daß sie dann etwas zu breit auf beiden Ende aussehen können. Leider können wir nich jede Anleitung nach jedem individuellen Wunsch umrechnen, aber gerne wird Ihnen Ihr DROPS Laden weiter helfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Susan 25.03.2020 - 00:08:

I’m sorry but this M1 chart is confusing to me. I wish you’d have included written directions. Can you please at least spell out Row 1?

DROPS Design 25.03.2020 kl. 08:01:

Hi Susan, Row 1, from bottom right to left: Knit 1, knit 2 together, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch, (knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over = upwards line), knit 1, knit 2 together, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, (slip 1, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over) and finally knit 1. Hope this helps and happy knitting!

Manuela Rosi 06.01.2019 - 19:58:

Grazie x creare sempre capi molto belli e in lingua italiana

Margaret 26.11.2017 - 11:37:

Scusa, io sono nuova di Drops. Nello schema M1, i ferri in cui si fanno solo maglie diritte, sono i ferri del rovescio del lavoro o sono dei ferri diritti?

DROPS Design 26.11.2017 kl. 12:07:

Buongiorno Margaret. I ferri pari del diagramma, vengono lavorati sul rovescio del lavoro e deve lavorare le maglie a rovescio. Buon lavoro!

S.Ravn 17.11.2017 - 19:25:

Hvor mange masker skal slå op til str. M hvis den skal være med lange ærmer?

DROPS Design 22.11.2017 kl. 14:46:

Hej, For hver 10 cm du vil have ærmerne længere skal du slå 18 m mere op, men sørg for at det stemmer med antal masker i en rapport. God fornøjelse!

Hélène LADRIERE 06.05.2016 - 14:42:

Bonjour, j'ai vraiment envie de ce boléro mais je pêche au 7eme rang. Après plusieurs essais, je me retrouve toujours avec deux mailles en trop... Pouvez vous m'aider?

DROPS Design 06.05.2016 kl. 16:09:

Bonjour Mme Ladriere, au rang 7, vous devez tricoter la dernière m de M.1A ens avec les 2 premières m de M1B (le jeté remplace la m dans M1A), puis quand vous répétez M1B, tricotez les 2 dernières m de M1B avec la 1ère m du M1B suivant (puis de M1C). Voir aussi la vidéo ci-dessous. Bon tricot!

Thea 19.01.2016 - 15:32:

Sliter med å komme igang på dette mønsteret etter perlestrikken. M1A går bra, men når man fortsetter med B blir det da to kast etter hverandre??? Kan du skrive hvordan omgangen strikkes?

DROPS Design 25.01.2016 kl. 14:54:

Hej. Nej det blir inte två kast efter varandra. När du stickat M1A stickar du (från rätsidan): 1 r, kast, "ta 1 m løst av p som om den strikkes rett, 1 r, løft den løse m over", 1 r, 2 rett sammen, kast. Detta är alltså M1B som du stickat nu. M1C stickas: 1 r, kast, " ta 1 m løst av p som om den strikkes rett, 1 r, løft den løse m over", 1 r. Lycka till!

Tara 11.06.2015 - 16:53:

Can you tell me how the sizes (S-M-L etc) relate to UK or US dress sizes? Thank you.

DROPS Design 11.06.2015 kl. 18:21:

Dear Tara, you will find at the bottom of the pattern a measurement chart with all measurements in cm taken flat from side to side, compare these to a similar garment you have and like the shape to find out the matching size. Happy knitting!

Bodil Engen Lund 13.08.2014 - 21:41:

Takk for tilbakemelding. Har rukket opp omgang 7 noen ganger, uff. Kan du skrive maske for maske hvordan omgangen skal strikkes. Og hvilke masker som skal repeteres.

DROPS Design 14.08.2014 kl. 16:41:

Hei Bodil. F.eks. str S = 59 m. Raekke 7: 5 perlestrikk, M.1A: 2 r, 1 kast, ta 1 m løst av p som om den strikkes rett, 2 rett sammen, løft den løse m (M.1B er begyndt i midten her), 1 kast, 3 r, 1 kast, ta 1 m løst av osv, 1 kast osv. Dette strikker du til du har 10 masker tilbage (5 til mönster og 5 til perlestrik), strik nu 1 kast, ta 1 m løst av p osv (M.1C er begyndt i midten af denne), 1 kast og slut af med 2 r og 5 perlestrikk. Haaber du kan komme videre saadan :-)

Bodil Engen Lund 12.08.2014 - 22:27:

Glemte å spørre om mønsteret i omgang 7 skulle deles opp, for at det skulle gå opp i antall masker?

DROPS Design 13.08.2014 kl. 17:48:

Hej Bodil. Nej, det behöves ikke. Se mit svar herunder.

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