DROPS Extra / 0-812

Seaman by DROPS Design

Pletený DROPS pánský svetr se vzorem a šálovým límcem z příze „Alaska“. Velikost S – XXXL.

DROPS design: Návod č. X-382
Skupina přízí: C
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Velikost: XS/S - M - L/XL - XXL - XXXL

Materiál: DROPS ALASKA firmy Garnstudio
650-750-800-900-950 g, barva č. 49, světle hnědá
200-200-200-250-250 g, barva č. 02, přírodní

SADA DROPS PONOŽKOVÝCH JEHLIC a DROPS KRUHOVÁ JEHLICE č. 5 (40 a 80 cm) - nebo velikosti potřebné k upletení zkušebního vzorku o rozměrech 17 ok x 22 řad lícovým žerzejem = 10 x 10 cm.
SADA DROPS PONOŽKOVÝCH JEHLIC a KRUHOVÁ JEHLICE č. 4 (80 cm) – na patent

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100% vlna
od 60.00 Kč /50g
DROPS Alaska uni colour DROPS Alaska uni colour 60.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
DROPS Alaska mix DROPS Alaska mix 60.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
Jehlice a háčky
Přízi na tento model můžete mít už za 1020Kč. Více zde.

Návod

VZOR:
Viz schéma M. 1 až M. 3 – schéma pleteme lícovým žerzejem.
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TĚLO:
Pleteme v řadách dokola na kruhové jehlici.
Na kruhovou jehlici č. 4 nahodíme přízí Alaska světle hnědou barvou 171-201-231-258-288 ok. Pleteme patentem = 1 hladce/2 obrace, do výšky 5 cm. Změníme velikost kruhové jehlice na č. 5. Upleteme 1 kruhovou řadu hladce a SOUČASNĚ rovnoměrně ujmeme 27-33-39-42-48 ok = 144-168-192-216-240 ok. Pleteme vzorem M. 1. PAMATUJTE NA SPRÁVNÉ NAPĚTÍ PŘÍZE! Ve výšce asi 25-27-30-33-35 cm přidáme nejméně dvě řady po řadě puntíků – pokračujeme vzorem M. 2. Po dokončení vzoru M. 2, pleteme před 23 řadami vzorem M. 1 3 kruhové řady světle hnědou barvou. Po dokončení vzoru M. 1 pleteme vzorem M. 3, do požadované výšky pak pleteme světle hnědou barvou. SOUČASNĚ ve výšce 48-49-50-52-53 cm pleteme: uzavřeme pro průramek 3-4-4-5-5 ok, upleteme 22-27-32-37-41 ok, pro průkrčník uzavřeme 23-23-25-25-27 ok, upleteme 22-27-32-37-42 ok, pro průramek uzavřeme 5-7-7-9-9 ok, upleteme 67-77-89-99-111 ok (=zadní díl), pro druhý průramek uzavřeme 2-3-3-4-4 oka. Díly dokončíme samostatně.

ZADNÍ DÍL:
= 67-77-89-99-111ok. Pokračujeme vzorem jak je popsáno výše. SOUČASNĚ uzavřeme pro průramky na začátku každé řady z každé strany: 0-0-1-1-2x 3 oka, 0-1-1-2-3krát 2 oka a 0-2-3-3-3krát 1 oko = 67-69-73-79-81 ok. Ve výšce 66-68-71-74-76 cm uzavřeme pro průkrčník středových 21-21-23-23-25 ok. Náramenice dokončíme samostatně. V následující řadě uzavřeme pro průkrčník 1 oko = 22-23-24-27-27 ok zbývá na náramenici. Oka uzavřeme ve výšce 68-70-73-76-78 cm.

PRAVÝ PŘEDNÍ DÍL:
= 22-27-32-37-42 ok. Průramky tvarujeme stejně jako na zadním díle = 22-23-24-27-27 ok. Oka uzavřeme ve výšce 68-70-73-76-78 cm – POZN: oka uzavřeme ve stejné řadě vzoru jako na zadním díle.

LEVÝ PŘEDNÍ DÍL:
Pleteme stejně jako pravý přední díl – zrcadlově.

RUKÁV:
Pleteme na krátkých ponožkových jehlicích v řadách dokola. Při větším počtu ok převedem práci na kruhovou jehlici. PŘED POKRAČOVÁNÍM SI PROSÍM PŘEČTĚTE CELÝ POSTUP! Na ponožkové jehlice č. 4 nahodíme světle hnědou barvou 51-54-57-57-57 ok. Pleteme patentem = 1 hladce/2 obrace do výšky 5 cm. Změníme velikost jehlic na č. 5 a upleteme jednu kruhovou řadu hladce, SOUČASNĚ rovnoměrně ujmeme 10-11-12-12-12 ok = 41-43-45-45-45 ok. Značkou označíme začátek řady (= střed spodní strany rukávu) a druhou značkou označíme střed horní strany rukávu. – vzor je souměrný podle tohoto oka. SOUČASNĚ ve výšce 7-7-9-9-10 cm, přidáme kolem značky na spodní straně rukávu 1 oko. Přidávání opakujeme každých 5-4½-3-2½-2 cm celkem 10-11-14-16-18krát = 61-65-73-77-81 ok – přidávaná oka zapracováváme do vzoru. SOUČASNĚ ve výšce asi 47 cm – přidáme řady tak, abychom upletly nejméně 2 řady po řadě s puntíky – do požadované délky dopleteme vzorem M. 2 (oko ve schématu označené šipkou je oko označené značkou jako střed horní části rukávu). Ve výšce 56-54-52-50-48 cm (nižší vzdálenost u větších velikostí odpovídá adekvátním proporcím rukávové hlavice, která je u širšího rukávu delší), uzavřeme kolem značky spodní části rukávu 5-7-7-9-9 ok (tj. 2-3-3-4-4 oka z každé strany značky). Díl dokončíme v lícových a rubových řadách – SOUČASNĚ tvarujeme rukávovou hlavici – na začátku a na konci každé řady uzavřeme z každé strany 2-3-3-3-4krát 2 oka a 1-2-3-4-5krát 1 oko. Dále z každé strany uzavřeme 2 oka a to, až do výšky 61 cm. Na závěr uzavřeme z každé strany 1krát 3 oka. Zbylá oka uzavřeme ve výšce 62 cm.

DOKONČENÍ:
Sešijeme náramenice.

ŠÁLOVÝ LÍMEC:
Límec začínáme na levé straně předního dílu, na konci uzavřených ok. Na kruhovou jehlici č. 4 nabereme podél levé strany dílu světle hnědou barvou 34 až 42 ok, ze zadního průkrčníku nabereme 24 až 28 ok a na závěr nabereme podél druhé strany předního dílu 34 až 42 ok = 92 až 112 ok (oka nenabíráme v předním průkrčníku, kde jsou uzavřená oka). Rubovou řadu upleteme hladce a SOUČASNĚ rovnoměrně přidáme oka na celkový počet 123-129-138-144-150 ok. Pleteme patentem (lícová řada): krajová oka pleteme ve všech řadách hladce, *1 hladce, 2 obrace*, mezi *-* opakujeme, až zbývají 2 oka, řadu končíme 1 oko hladce a krajové oko hladce. Takto pleteme do výšky 6 cm. Uprostřed každého žebra pleteného 12 oky hladce (= zadní průkrčník) přidáme 1 oko, nahlížíme z lícové strany (= zadní díl průkrčníku) = 135-141-150-156-162 ok. Límec pleteme do výšky asi 11-11-13-13-15 cm, oka VOLNĚ uzavřeme jak se jeví. Díly límce přeložíme přes sebe (pravou stranu přes levou), přeložený límec všijeme do průkrčníku.
Všijeme rukávy.

Schéma

= světle hnědá
= přírodní


Potřebujete poradit s tímto návodem?

Děkujeme, že jste si vybrali návod DROPS Design. Zakládáme si na tom, že dáváme k dispozici návody ověřené a snadno srozumitelné. Všechny návody jsou přeložené z norského originálu a tak si můžete kdykoli srovnat rozměry a počty s původním návodem (DROPS Extra 0-812) .

Máte s návodem potíže? Níže najdete seznam odkazů, které vám pomohou dokončit vaše dílo co nejdříve - nebo se třeba přiučit něco nového.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

nahoru

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

nahoru

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

nahoru

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

nahoru

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

nahoru

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

nahoru

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

nahoru

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

nahoru

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

nahoru

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

nahoru

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

nahoru

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

nahoru

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

nahoru

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

nahoru

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

nahoru

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

nahoru

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

nahoru

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

nahoru

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

nahoru

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Komentáře / Otázky (29)

Anne Maurer 01.08.2019 - 12:18:

Wird beim Modell seaman M1 39cm gestrickt oder beinhalten diese 30cm das Bündchen?

DROPS Design 02.08.2019 kl. 09:22:

Liebe Anne, die 30 cm beinhalten das Bündchen, es werden also 30 cm ab dem Anschlag gemessen. Die Maßangaben beziehen sich in der Regel auf die Gesamtlänge. Viel Spaß beim Weiterstricken! :-)

Gisele 11.01.2019 - 04:47:

Is there a tutorial on how to start knitting this shawl collar?

DROPS Design 11.01.2019 kl. 09:40:

Dear Gisele, there is no tutorial to this shawl, start picking the sts on the right side of front piece (beg on the bottom of neckline, just after the last st cast off for neck mid on front piece), then pick up the sts along neck on back piece and down along the left side of front piece to the first st cast off for neck on mid front. Work then back and forth in rib, increasing in the P- sections (see previous answers). Happy knitting!

Gisele 10.01.2019 - 18:31:

Am I increasing 12 sts in each of the back 12 sts at the back of the neck?

DROPS Design 11.01.2019 kl. 09:11:

Dear Gisele, you are increasing a total of 12 sts = 1 stitch in each of the middle 12 purl-sections on mid back of the neck. Happy knitting!

Gisele 10.01.2019 - 18:28:

My only her question is to clarify the “increase 1 sts in each of the middle 12 k sections”. Can you please explain more how to do that. Thank you!

DROPS Design 11.01.2019 kl. 09:09:

Dear Gisele, to make the collar wider on the back on neck, you will increase 1 stitch in each of the 12 P2-sections on mid back on collar and will then work as before K1, P2 over the first and last sts and P3 in the middle 12 purl sections of the rib. This video shows how to increase a stitch in a Purl-section. Happy knnitting!

Gisele 09.01.2019 - 22:50:

I am confused about where to start picking up the stitches for the shawl collar. Is there a tutorial to show that or easier explanation that what is listed in the instructions.

DROPS Design 10.01.2019 kl. 09:44:

Dear Gisele, start picking up the stitches for collar from the right side of piece, beginning on the left side of cast off sts for neck, pjck up the sts along the right side of neck (when garment is worn), then along neckline on back piece and down along the left side of neck to the first st cast off for neck. Happy knitting!

Pamela Burdick 14.09.2018 - 23:17:

After working diagram M1 instructions are confusing, please help clarify.

DROPS Design 17.09.2018 kl. 08:05:

Dear Mrs Burdick, after you have worked M.1 you will continue pattern working first M.2 then 3 rounds with light brown, then 23 rounds in M.1 then work M.3 and finish with light brown. At the same time, work the armholes and finish each piece separately as explained for your size. Happy knitting!

Miriam 16.07.2018 - 11:35:

Seríais tan amables de incluir un video-tutorial (con método inglés- americano) que mostrara cómo hacer y colocar un cuello tipo chal en un sweater? thanks in advance :)

DROPS Design 18.07.2018 kl. 21:36:

Hola Miriam. Pasaré tu sugerencia al departamento de vídeos.

Katia 18.11.2017 - 07:38:

Au secours ! Je fais ce modèle pour un anniversaire. Et je suis bloquée par un "décalage" du motif M2 de part le travail du tricot en spirale. J'aurais donc certainement ensuite le même soucis pour le motif M3. Au secours ! Please, please, please.... que dois je faire ??? j'espère avoir une réponse rapide... il ne me reste pas beaucoup de temps.

DROPS Design 20.11.2017 kl. 08:35:

Bonjour Katia, vous pouvez utiliser la techniques des rayures tricotées en rond pour éviter un décalage - le début des tours étant sur le côté, il ne sera pas très visible. Bon tricot!

Yu Bagger 03.04.2017 - 17:19:

Jeg kan ikke forstå hvordan man kan strikke kraven når man skal tage 1m ud således tages der 1 m ud i hver af de midterste 12 ret-partier, set fra retsiden (= bag i nakken) = 135-141-150-156-162 m. Hvordan kan man fortsætte med at strikke 1r, 2vr.?

DROPS Design 04.04.2017 kl. 11:44:

Hej Yu, når du har taget ud i ret-partierne, så strikker du de nye masker i ret, så det bliver 2r,2vr. God fornøjelse!

Sytske Jongsma 02.02.2017 - 13:06:

Neem ik de inbrei kleur gedurende het hele werk aan de achterkant mee of hecht ik af wanneer er een stukje effen gebreid wordt?

DROPS Design 02.02.2017 kl. 13:51:

Hoi Sytske. Ik neem de draad mee naar boven in de effen stukken (dus even meedraaien aan het begin van de nld), ik brei alleen de draad mee aan de achterkant (fair-isle) in de naalden met patroon). Werkt voor mij goed - en hoef ik geen draden af te hechten :)

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