Sweet Strawberry by DROPS Design

Knitted strawberry hat for baby and children in DROPS Alpaca

DROPS Baby 21-21
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-086-byb
Yarn group A
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Fits head circumference in cm:
40/42-42/44-44/46 (48/50-50/52)

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
For Strawberry hat:
Colour no 7238m, dark olive: 50 g for all sizes
Colour no 3620, red: 50 g for all sizes
For Blueberry hat:
Colour no 7238m, dark olive: 50 g for all sizes
Colour no 6347, greypurple: 50 g for all sizes

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm - or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.40 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.50 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
See diagrams M.1 and M.2.

Worked in the round. Loosely cast on 108-114-120 (126-132) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with red or greypurple (no of sts divisible by 6, distribute sts evenly on 4 double pointed needles). P 1 round, then work in stocking st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 5-5-6 (6-7) cm work diagram M.1 upwards. After diagram M.1 has been worked 2 times vertically, work rounds 1-7 in diagram M.1, then K 1 round with red while at the same time dec 4-2-0 (6-4) sts evenly = 104-112-120 (120-128) sts (no of sts divisible by 8). Piece now measures approx. 13-13-14 (14-15) cm. Then work diagram M.2 1 time vertically, and then finish the piece with dark olive.
Now insert 13-14-15 (15-16) markers in the piece 8 sts apart. Then dec 1 st on left side of all markers (by K 2 tog) on every other round until 13-14-15 (15-16) sts remain on needles. Knit 1 round where you decrease 5-6-7-7-8 sts evenly spaced = 8 sts on needles. Piece now measures approx. 18-18-19 (20-21) cm. Work in the round for 3 cm over these sts for "stem". Pull a double thread through the remaining sts and fasten tightly.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 22.03.2021
... Now insert 13-14-15 (15-16) markers in the piece 8 sts apart. Then dec 1 st on left side of all markers (by K 2 tog) on every other round until 13-14-15 (15-16) sts remain on needles. Knit 1 round where you decrease 5-6-7-7-8 sts evenly spaced = 8 sts on needles...


symbols = K in red or graypurple
symbols = P in dark olive
symbols = K in dark olive

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 21-21) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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5) How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

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6) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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7) What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

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8) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

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9) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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10) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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11) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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13) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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14) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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15) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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16) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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17) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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18) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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19) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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20) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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21) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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22) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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23) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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24) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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25) Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (91)

country flag Tonya Hill wrote:

Does one carry the green yarn at the back of the work to do the little seeds on the hat? Thank you

08.02.2024 - 13:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Hill, yes you should carry the yarn at the back of piece/from wrong side, just make sure to not tighten the strand between 2 stitches to avoid loosing elasticity; you can cross yarns every 2nd/3rd stitch. Happy knitting!

08.02.2024 - 15:47

country flag Ingemaje wrote:

Kære jer Sweet strawberry baby hat. Der står at jeg skal strikke 1.-7 runder. Betyder det fra 1 til 7 runder afhængig af størrelse? Og hvor mange runder hvis jeg strikker den næstmindste? I diagrammet M1 er der en cirkel over den udpegede maske . Hvad betyder cirkelen? Tak🍓

31.01.2024 - 15:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Ingemaje. Når du har strikket M.1 2 ganger i høyden skal du strikke M.1 en gang til, men bare 1. til 7. omgang (uavhengig av hvilken str. du strikker). Sirkelen i diagrammet betyr at du skal strikke masken vrang i fargen oliven. mvh DROPS Design

09.02.2024 - 07:36

country flag Saila wrote:

Har ni missat en instruktion? Så som jag läser instruktionen ska stjälken stickas på 32 maskor? Det känns lite väl. Borde väl vara ett antal minskningar innan (möjligen 3m/sticka x 4 = 12). Kan det vara så att ni har skrivit st (sticka) när ni menar arbete? Alltså att man ska göra minskningar vartannat varv på vänster sidan om markören tills det kvarstår 13 maskor i arbetet (därefter 5 minskningar = 8 maskor i arbetet) Där har ni också skrivit st (som för mig betyder sticka).

21.01.2024 - 13:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Saila. Efter att du stickat färdigt M.2 har du 104 m på stickan (minsta storleken). Du sätter då 13 markörer (minsta storleken) i arbetet och minskar 1 m på vänster sida av alla markörer. Detta upprepar du på vartannat varv tills du har 13 m kvar (dvs du minskar 13 m per varv och du gör minskning på totalt 7 varv). 104 m - (13 m x 7) = 13 m. På nästa varv minskar du 5 maskor (minsta storleken) och du har då 8 maskor kvar. Dessa 8 maskor stickar du stjälken med. Mvh DROPS Design

24.01.2024 - 14:52

country flag Fiona wrote:

Please advise - I’m now looking at Drops Alpaca yarn and 7238 is being described as “green grass “ whereas 7233 is “olive mix”. Your pattern has “Colour no 7238m, dark olive” - which yarn should I order??? Many thanks.

26.06.2023 - 17:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Fiona, colour 7238 will fit the best. Happy knitting!

26.06.2023 - 18:29

country flag Fiona wrote:

Dear Drops Design, Aargh!!! I have ordered the wrong yarn - I’ve got Drops Nepal instead of Drops Alapaca. Thank you for solving this mystery. I could not figure out why this hat was using so much yarn! My fault entirely for not triple checking & no excuse whatsoever that Nepal does have 35% Alpaca in it.

26.06.2023 - 17:32

country flag Fiona wrote:

I’m attempting to knit the Sweet Strawberry hat in the 2 year old size. The pattern states one 50g ball of red and one 50g ball of dark olive is all that is required to knit all sizes. I’m only half way through and have run out of the red colour. I did a tension check before starting and it was correct using 2.5 mm needles. Where have I gone wrong? Or is the pattern incorrect in the amount of yarn required?

26.06.2023 - 15:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Fiona, did you use DROPS Alpaca? Do you have correct tension both in width and in height? Thank you!

26.06.2023 - 16:08

country flag Irene Borefjord wrote:

Hej, jag ska göra blåbärsmössan, men förstår inte när det står "maskantal delat på 6 - fördelat på 4 strumpstickor. Jag ska lägga upp 108 maskor, delat på 4 stickor, det blir för mig 27 stycken maskor på varje sticka, men 27 är ju inte delbart med 6. Hur ska jag göra/tänka? Tack på förhand!

19.11.2022 - 19:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Irene. Maskeantallet skal være delelig med 6. Om du ser på diagram M.1 går dette diagrammet over 6 masker = 1 rapport av M.1 = 6 masker. Når du fordeler 108 masker på 4 pinner = 27 masker på hver pinne får du 3,5 rapport av M.1 på hver pinne. Om du heller ønsker å ha hele rapporter av M.1 på hver pinne, kan du fint gjøre det (f.eks 2 pinner med 4 rapporter og 2 pinner med 3 rapporter av M.1). Men dette vil jo forandre seg når du starter fellingene. mvh DROPS Design

21.11.2022 - 11:38

country flag Elisabeth wrote:

Hej, Jag ska nu minska och sätta 15 markörer. Har 120 maskor.Jag har läst i kommentarerna att jag ska minska på 9:e och 10: e maskan men då blir det ju bara 12 gånger?? Ska det inte vara så att jag minskar 15 ggr?

02.10.2022 - 20:44

country flag Dina Bhana wrote:

After you place the markers 8 stitches apart and then start to decrease in each alternate row, do you keep the markers 8 stitches apart or do you reduce the number of stitches between each marker as you decrease the stitches at the top of the hat?

07.07.2022 - 00:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Dina, The number of stitches between each marker decreases towards the top of the hat. Happy knitting!

07.07.2022 - 06:46

country flag Rita Slåbakk wrote:

Skjønner ikke 1-7 omg i m1. Da kommer de grønne uten avstand i omg. Ser ikke sånn ut på bildet

30.11.2021 - 22:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Rita. Förstår inte riktigt vad du menar. De gröna kommer med 5 m avstånd i bredden, och 3 p avstånd i höjden. Mvh DROPS Design

03.12.2021 - 12:27

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