Holly Berries by DROPS Design
DROPS jumper in ”Snow” with round yoke and Norwegian pattern. Size S - XXXL.
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
550-600-700-750-850-900 g colour no 08, red.
150-150-150-200-200-200 g colour no 01, off-white.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 and 40 cm) size 8 mm – or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 and 40 cm) size 7 mm – for rib.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Snow 100% Wool |
from 1.90 £ /50g | Order | ||||||||||||
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DROPS Needles & Hooks | Order | |||||||||||||
NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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BODY PIECE:
Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 116-128-140-152-164-176 sts on circular needle size 7 mm with red. Work rib = K2/ P2 for 7 cm. Change to circular needle size 8 mm, K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 20 sts evenly = 96-108-120-132-144-156 sts. P 1 round and continue in stocking st. Insert 1 marker in first st on round and 1 marker in st 49-55-61-67-73-79 (= the sides). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm work M.1 – make sure to have the st marked with an arrow mid front (= 8-9-10-11-12-13 repeats across the round). After M.1, K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME cast off 7 sts each side for armhole (i.e. st with marker + 3 sts each side) = 82-94-106-118-130-142 sts left on needle. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.
SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 28-28-32-32-36-36 sts on double pointed needles size 7 mm with red. Work rib K2/P2 for 7 cm. Change to double pointed needles size 8 mm, K 1 round, P 1 round and continue in stocking st. Insert a marker in first st at beg of round. When piece measures 9 cm inc 1 st each side of st with marker, repeat the inc on every 6-6-5-5-4-4 cm a total of 4-4-5-5-6-6 times = 36-36-42-42-48-48 sts.
When piece measures 31 cm continue as follows:
SIZE S and M: Work M.1 on all sts (= 3 stars).
SIZE L and XL: Work M.1b, M.1 3 times and then M.1c.
SIZE XXL and XXXL: Work M.1 on all sts (= 4 stars).
After M.1 K 1 round with red, AT THE SAME TIME cast off 7 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. st with marker + 3 sts each side) = 29-29-35-35-41-41 sts left on needle. Knit the other sleeve.
YOKE:
Slip sleeves on the same circular needle size 8 mm as body piece where cast off for armholes = 140-152-176-188-212-224 sts. Insert a marker in st mid back – NOW ROUND BEG HERE! Work 1 round red stocking st as follows:
SIZE S: Inc 3 sts evenly = 143 sts.
SIZE M: Inc 4 sts evenly = 156 sts.
SIZE L: Inc 6 sts evenly = 182 sts.
SIZE XL: Dec 6 sts evenly = 182 sts.
SIZE XXL: Dec 4 sts evenly = 208 sts.
SIZE XXXL: Dec 3 sts evenly = 221 sts.
Continue in M.2 (= 11-12-14-14-16-17 repeats across the round) – work diagram to arrow for your size = 77-84-84-84-96-102 sts on needle. Continue with red, K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec evenly to 60-60-64-64-68-68 sts. Now work shortened rows back and forth on needle in red stocking st mid back as follows: Work row to 10 sts past marker mid back, turn and work 21 sts on return row, turn and work 31 sts, turn and work 41 sts, turn and work round to mid back again.
NECK: Change to small circular needle size 7 mm and work rib K2/P2 for approx 12 cm. Cast off loosely with K over K and P over P.
ASSEMBLY: Sew openings under sleeves.
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s..
Sleeve:.... SIZE S and M: Work M.1 on all sts (= 3 stars).
SIZE L and XL: Work M.1b, M.1 3 times and then M.1c.
SIZE XXL and XXXL: Work M.1 on all sts (= 4 stars).
Numbers under the yoke is changed and chart M. 2 is changed (top section).
Continue in M.2 (= 11-12-14-14-16-17 repeats across the round) – work diagram to arrow for your size = 77-84-84-84-96-102 sts on needle. Continue with red...
Diagram
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= red |
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= off-white |
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= K2 tog |
Do you need help with this pattern?
Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 114-28) for measurements and calculations.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Comments / Questions (28)
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We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 275 catalogues and 10177 patterns - 10161 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Er ved at strikke holly berries. Kan BARE ikke få mønster til at passe på ærmerne. Når m.1b er strikket hvor på m.1 skal man så starte?? Har set der er rettelser men passer stadig ikke.
DROPS Design
15.01.2021 kl. 13:42:
Hej Ninna, i str L og XL starter du med M.1b og så M.1 i højre side af diagrammet, gentager det til du har 3 masker tilbage som strikkes i M.1c. God fornøjelse!Ik heb de Holly Berries trui gebreid (114-28) en de mouwen zijn aan de korte kant. Is het mogelijk om de mouwen te verlengen door er vanaf de manchetten (onderkant van de mouw) een stuk aan te breien? Zo ja, hoe kan ik dat doen?
Dag Nicolette,
Het is dan het handigst om de manchetten helemaal opnieuw te breien. omdat de mouwen van onder naar boven gebreid zijn, kun je er niet een stukje aan breien aan de onderkant omdat het boordpatroon dan verbreekt (tenzij je dit geen probleem vindt natuurlijk).
Je kunt eerst met een rondbreinaald steken opnemen vlak boven de manchetten en dan haal je de manchetten uit.
Dobrý den, po upletení vzoru M.2 píšete: Pokračujeme vzorem M.2 (= vzor se v kruhové řadě opakuje 11-12-14-14-16-17x) – vzor pleteme po šipku označující naši velikost = na jehlici máme 66-72-70-70-80-85 ok, ale mě zůstalo 77 ok (143 ok-6 ok ujmuto ve vzoru M.2 x 11=66 ok ujmuto celkem=77 ok). Nemáte chybu ve výpočtu? Děkuji
DROPS Design
23.09.2017 kl. 14:11:
Dobrý den, Andreo, díky za upozornění - návod je opravený. Nyní by již měly všechny počty odpovídat. Hodně zdaru! HanaHi there, I'm knitting the XL size, and wondering if there's any error? For the Body, I have 132 sts on the needle (per the pattern) and have just started the first row of the M.1 chart, but it doesn't work. The chart is worked over 24 sts which doesn't fit evenly into 132 sts (2 short) - should I have decreased only 18 sts when I changed needles and not 20per the pattern? Please advise!
DROPS Design
22.02.2016 kl. 10:33:
Dear Geraldine, in size XL, work M.1 over the 132 sts as follows: repeat the 24 sts in M.1 a total of 5 times (= 120 sts) and finish round with the first 12 sts in M.1 (= 1st half of diagram). Happy knitting!Teen M-kokoista villapaitaa tällä ohjeella, enkä saa millään kirjoneulekuviota kohdilleen etu- ja takakappaleessa, vaikka lasken miten. Miksei tätä ole laskettu ohjeeseen valmiiksi kaikkiin kokoihin, niinkuin muutkin silmukkamäärät? Miten se on tarkoitus laskea?
DROPS Design
02.01.2014 kl. 12:33:
Kuvion alku lasketaan siten, että piirrokseen nuolella merkitty s tulee kerroksen keskimmäisen silmukan kohdalle. Jos tarvitset lisää apua, voit tuoda neuleen liikkeeseen, josta ostit lankamme, he auttavat sinua mielellään.Jättefin tröja!! Ska börja sticka när som helst, men är osäker på vilken storlek. Vilka mått (längd, bredd) blir det på en färdig M eller L tröja? En fråga till, om provlappen blir 8,5 x 8,5 ska jag hellre använda stickor 8 och 9 då? Tack tack!
DROPS Design
20.11.2013 kl. 08:13:
Hej, Måtten på tröjan hittar du i måttskissen nederst i beskrivningen, M = 98 cm runt och längd 64 cm. Om du har 11 m och provlappen blir 8,5 cm får du gå upp ett nummer så du får 11 m på 10 cm. Lycka tillJust made this sweater turned out beautifully thanks so much
Ik heb nu 2 x een trui gebreid op rondbreinaalden. Ik zou zo graag weer eens een patroon hebben met gewoon ingezette mouwen. Voor sommige vrouwen zit dat echt beter, nu trekt het vaak in de oksel en zijn de bovenarmen te krap. Alsof het comfort wordt opgeofferd aan het mooi. Met vr. gr.
DROPS Design
10.12.2012 kl. 16:31:
In onze database zijn er ook veel patronen beschikbaar met ingezette mouwen. Zoek en kies wat u wilt maken. Succes en veel breiplezier.Jag tycker att bilden och storlekarna är missvisande. Jag uppskattar att tjejen på bilden är en S elle M. Jag själv är M men den färdiga tröjan är betydligt tightare än vad den är på bilden. Jag fick dessutom lägga till en tio cm på ärmarna för att de inte skulle bli för korta. Förövrigt blev det en fantastisk tröja men den får absolut inte krympa någonting i tvätten :)
Andreas 28.08.2012 - 17:01:
P/v = Runde