DROPS 107-8 by DROPS Design

Top s krajkovým vzorem z příze Cotton Viscose.

  • DROPS 107-8 - Top s krajkovým vzorem z příze Cotton Viscose.
  • DROPS 107-8 - Top s krajkovým vzorem z příze Cotton Viscose.
Tento model je stále bezejmenný. Pojmenujte ho!
Velikost: S-M-L-XL-XXL-XXXL
Materiál: DROPS COTTON VISCOSE firmy Garnstudio
250-300-300-350-350-400 g barva č.26, hnědá

DROPS KRUHOVÁ JEHLICE č.3,5 – nebo velikosti potřebné k upletení zkušebního vzorku o rozměrech 23 ok x 30 řad lícovým žerzejem = 10 x 10 cm. 1 sekvence vzoru dle schématu M.1 = šířka 7 cm, 1 sekvence vzoru dle schématu M.3 = šířka 6,5 cm.

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Zkušební vzorek – Podívejte se, jak ho měřit a proč
Náhradní příze – Podívejte se, jak změnit přízi
Skupina přízí A až F – Neměňte návod, změňte přízi
Spotřeba příze při použití náhradní příze – Využijte náš převodník

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Návod

VROUBKOVÝ VZOR:
V rovných řadách pleteme stále hladce, lícové i rubové řady.
V kruhových řadách střídáme vždy 1 kruhovou řadu hladce, 1 kruhovou řadu obrace.
KRAJKOVÝ VZOR: Viz schémata M.1 – M.5. Pozor! Schéma M.1 pracuje s proměnlivým počtem ok – 16-23 ok.
TIPY:
UJÍMÁNÍ (pro průramky):
Ujímáme mezi 3 vroubkovými oky, vždy z lícové strany!
Za 3 vroubkovými oky ujímáme přetažením hladce (= sejmeme 1 oko hladce, 1 oko upleteme hladce a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme).
Před 3 vroubkovými oky spleteme 2 oka hladce.
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PŘEDNÍ A ZADNÍ DÍL:
Pleteme v kruhových řadách na kruhové jehlici. Na kruhovou jehlici č.3,5 volně nahodíme 176-192-208-224-256-288 ok. Upleteme 3x nad sebou sekvenci vzoru dle schématu M.1 (= 3x 10 kruhových řad) a pak 1x vzor M.2 (= 1 kruhová řada) = 154-168-182-196-224-252 ok. Pokračujeme dle schématu M.3 až do výše asi 30 cm – výšku upravíme tak, abychom dopletli celou sekvenci vzoru. Pak upleteme 1x vzor dle schématu M.4 (= 2 kruhové řady) = 176-192-208-224-256-288 ok. Do pleteniny umístíme dvě značky, abychom si vyznačili boky (= 88-96-104-112-128-144 ok pro přední i pro zadní díl). Dále pleteme lícovým žerzejem. Dbáme na rovnoměrné napětí příze! SOUČASNĚ ve výši 32-32-33-33-35-35 cm přidáváme v každé 6. kruhové řadě po obou stranách každé značky 3-3-4-4-3-3x 1 oko = 188-204-224-240-268-300 ok. Ve výši 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm upleteme na obou stranách nad krajními 12-14-16-18-20-22 oky 4 řady vroubkovým vzorem (tj. nad 6-7-8-9-10-11 oky na každé straně značky); ostatní oka pleteme nadále lícovým žerzejem. Nyní uzavřeme na obou stranách pro průramky 6-8-10-12-14-16 ok a přední i zadní díl dokončíme odděleně.
PŘEDNÍ DÍL:
= 88-94-102-108-120-134 ok. Pleteme lícovým žerzejem, jen kolem průramků pleteme lem – 3 oka vroubkovým vzorem. SOUČASNĚ průramky tvarujeme – ujímáme na obou stranách v každé druhé řadě (viz TIP): 5-7-10-11-15-20x 1 oko. Nadále pleteme lícovým žerzejem se 3 oky vroubkového lemu na obou stranách. SOUČASNĚ ve výši 41-42-43-44-45-46 cm odložíme pro výstřih prostředních 20-20-22-22-24-24 ok na pomocnou jehlici. Dále ujímáme po obou stranách výstřihu v každé druhé řadě: 1x 3 oka, 4x 2 oka a 7x 1 oko = 11-12-12-14-15-17 ok zbylých na každé náramenici. Ve výši 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm všechna zbylá oka uzavřeme.
ZADNÍ DÍL:
= 88-94-102-108-120-134 ok. Průramky tvarujeme stejně jako na předním dílu = 78-80-82-86-90-94 ok. Pleteme až do výše 53-55-57-59-61-63 cm (dodržujeme 3 oka vroubkového lemu po stranách). Nyní uzavřeme pro výstřih prostředních 42-42-44-44-46-46 ok a dále pak po obou stranách výstřihu v každé druhé řadě ještě 1x 2 oka a 5x 1 oko = 11-12-12-14-15-17 ok zbylých na každé náramenici. Ve výši 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm všechna zbylá oka uzavřeme.
DOKONČENÍ:
Sešijeme náramenice.
VÝSTŘIH:
Na kruhovou jehlici č.3,5 nabereme kolem výstřihu asi 168-168-168-180-180-180 ok (včetně ok odložených na předním dílu). Upleteme 1 kruhovou řadu obrace, pak pleteme vzor dle schématu M.5 – po dokončení sekvence vzoru máme v kruhové řadě 112-112-112-120-120-120 ok. Upleteme 1 kruhovou řadu obrace a oka uzavřeme.

Schéma

symbols = 1 oko hladce
symbols = 1 oko obrace
symbols = 2 oka spleteme hladce
symbols = 1 oko sejmeme hladce, 1 oko upleteme hladce a sejmuté oko přes ně přetáhneme
symbols = 1 oko sejmeme hladce, 2 oka spleteme hladce, sejmuté oko přes ně přetáhneme
symbols = 1 nahození
symbols = 2 oka spleteme obrace
symbols = 3 oka spleteme obrace
diagram
signature-image signature

Potřebujete poradit s tímto návodem?

Děkujeme, že jste si vybrali návod DROPS Design. Zakládáme si na tom, že dáváme k dispozici návody ověřené a snadno srozumitelné. Všechny návody jsou přeložené z norského originálu a tak si můžete kdykoli srovnat rozměry a počty s původním návodem (DROPS 107-8) .

Máte s návodem potíže? Níže najdete seznam odkazů, které vám pomohou dokončit vaše dílo co nejdříve - nebo se třeba přiučit něco nového.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

nahoru

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Pořídili jste si přízi DROPS na tento model? Pak máte taky právo žádat po svém prodejci, u něhož jste nakoupili, pomoc a rady. Seznam DROPS obchodů najdete tady!
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Komentáře / Otázky (86)

country flag Ferrand wrote:

Pourriez vous m expliquez dans le diagramme M 1 que veut dire les espaces en blanc comment faut il les travailler?

05.03.2022 - 19:08

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Ferrand, les espaces en blanc dans M.1 ne sont pas à tricoter, ce sont les mailles qui seront augmentées plus tard, autrement dit, tricotez le 1er rang de M.1 ainsi: 1 m end, 1 jeté, 2 m end, 2 m env, 2 m end, 3 m env, 2 m end, 2 m env, 2 m end, 1 jeté (= 16 mailles augmentées à 18 m sur ce rang). Bon tricot!

07.03.2022 kl. 08:36

country flag Lina Bergeron wrote:

Sur la grille M1, il y a des cases où il n'y a rien je fais quoi à ces mailles?

11.08.2021 - 21:30

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bergeron, ne tricotez que les cases indiquées dans M.1, autrement dit, M.1 commence sur 16 m (et on a 18 m après le 1er rang): 1 m end, 1 jeté, 2 m end, 2 m env, 2 m end, 3 m env, 2 m end, 2 m env, 2 m end, 1 jeté (= 18 m), lorsque toutes les augmentations sont faites, toutes les cases sont alignées = au 7ème rang de M.1. Au 8=9ème rang, vous allez diminuer des mailles comme indiqué = il restera alors 16 m dans chaque M.1. Bon tricot!

12.08.2021 kl. 08:56

country flag Yvonne wrote:

Forstår ik mønster m1, der står 16 m, men tæller man er der 18, er det fordi slå om masken ikke er talt med ❓

22.06.2021 - 21:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Yvonne. Ja det stämmer, slå om masken er ikke talt med i de 16 m. Mvh DROPS Design

23.06.2021 kl. 07:50

country flag Sylvie Racette wrote:

Bonjour, la dernière phrase de la partie "Dos et devant" vous dites rabattre pour les emmanchures les 6-8-10.....m centrales de chaque côté et terminer le dos et le devant. Qu'est-ce que ça veut dire "mailles centrales de chaque côté"? Vu qu'on parle d'emmanchures ça devrait être à gauche et droit du devant et même chose pour le dos? Je ne comprends pas "mailles centrales!!

09.06.2021 - 04:04

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Racette, vous avez auparavant tricoté 12-14-16-18-20-22 m au point mousse de chaque côté, vous allez maintenant rabattre les 6-8-10-12-14-16 m au milieu de ces 12-14-16-18-20-22 m point mousse, vous allez donc tricoter ainsi: 3 m point mousse, rabattez les 6-8-10-12-14-16 m suivantes (=3-4-5-6-7-8 m de chaque côté du marqueur), 3 m point mousse, répétez de l'autre côté. Bon tricot!

09.06.2021 kl. 07:33

country flag Sylvie Boisgirard wrote:

Bonjour, Je ne retrouve plus le tableau pour trouver sa taille svp ? Merci pour votre retour. Sylvie

08.08.2020 - 14:24

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Boisgirard, pour choisir votre taille, mesurez un vêtement similaire dont vous aimez la forme et comparez les mesures à celles du schéma - vous trouverez plus d'infos ici. Bon tricot!

10.08.2020 kl. 09:10

country flag Sylvie Boisgirard wrote:

Bonjour, Désolée d'insister mais c'est une précision dont j'ai besoin de connaître car dans le schéma des mensurations on dirait que 66cm s'arrête aux emmanchures et qu'il y a encore 22cm jusqu'aux épaules ? Et, je trouve que 88cm c'est un peu long surtout si l'on doit encore étirer l'ouvrage ? Alors, svp j'ai besoin de connaître les dimensions exactes et ci celles ci correspondent aux dimension du top terminé ? Je vous remercie par avance. Sylvie

05.08.2020 - 16:40

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Boisgirard, les 66 cm en taille XXL correspondent à la longueur totale, avant + après les emmanchures (cf indications dans les explications). Bon tricot!

05.08.2020 kl. 16:52

country flag Sylvie Boisgirard wrote:

Bonjour, Pouvez-vous me dire svp qu'elle est la longueur exacte du top : 66 ou 88cm dans le schéma ? Et, si ces mensurations sont-elles celles du top une fois terminé ? Merci pour votre retour. Sylvie

05.08.2020 - 15:52

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sylvie, 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm, cela depend de votre taille. Cela veut dire que dans la premiere taille (S) c'est 58 cm, dans la derniere (XXXL) 68 cm. Bon tricot!

05.08.2020 kl. 16:09

country flag Sylvie Boisgirard wrote:

Bonsoir et merci pour votre réponse rapide et très claire, et il me vient une autre question à l'esprit, dans ce cas, me conseillez-vous plutôt le blocage ou un repassage léger svp une fois l'ouvrage terminé ? Merci pour votre retour. Sylvie

04.08.2020 - 21:02

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Boisgirard, il existe différentes façons de bloquer un ouvrage, généralement, l'humidifier/le laver (en respectant bien les consignes d'entretien) et laisser sécher à plat (avec épingles si besoin) suffit bien souvent. Votre magasin DROPS aura probablement d'autres astuces et idées pour vous, n'hésitez pas à le contacter, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

05.08.2020 kl. 07:59

country flag Sylvie Boisgirard wrote:

Bonjour j'ai une hésitation et un doute, Quand dans la partie devant et dos il est mentionné : »Continuer en suivant M3 jusqu'à ce que l'ouvrage mesure environ 30 cm de hauteur totale », dans ce cas doit-on mesurer sans étirer le motif (dentelle) ? Car à la fin de l'ouvrage , cette partie sera bloquée comme sur la photo du modèle ? J'espère être claire et merci pour votre retour. Sylvie

04.08.2020 - 11:52

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Boisgirard, vous pouvez vérifier les mesures de votre échantillon - bloqué/étiré et non pour vérifier la différence en largeur et en longueur et ainsi adapter à votre goût. Les mesures indiquées le sont à partir du rang de montage, et, sans indication contraire, sans étirer, mais si vous étirez en longueur, l'ouvrage sera plus étroit et si vous étirez en largeur, l'ouvrage sera plus court. Bon tricot!

04.08.2020 kl. 13:47

country flag Maria Marchitelli wrote:

Non capisco una cosa, io sto facendo la taglia XL con 224 maglie, in M1 a me non risultano 23 maglie( come avete scritto nella NOTA), ma 24 maglie. Oppure la prima volta si ripete con 24 e poi si continua con 23?

30.04.2020 - 16:37

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