Tiny Bear by DROPS Design

Knitted teddy bear for babies and children in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked top down, with garter stitch and embroidered eyes and nose. Theme: Soft toys.

DROPS Baby 46-17
DROPS Design: Pattern me-086-by
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
Height = 13 cm

YARN:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
50 g colour 42-cedar / 01-off white / 07-light taupe / 49-chocolate
And use:
A left-over colour 03-dark grey / 07- light taupe / 03-dark grey / 02-black

ACCESSORIES:
Wadding.

1 teddy bear weighs approx. 22 g with wadding.

NEEDLES:
DROPS SINGLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.

KNITTING TENSION:
22 stitches in width and 45 rows in height with garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool
from 2.45 £ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 2.45 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 2.45 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 2.45£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A and B. The diagrams show how to embroider the stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TEDDY BEAR – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth in garter stitch, from the head to the legs. The arms are worked in as you go. The eyes and nose are embroidered, the teddy bear sewn together and filled with wadding.

HEAD AND EARS:
Cast on 36 stitches with needle size 3.5 mm and DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Work GARTER STITCH – read description above – AT THE SAME TIME decrease for the ears as follows:
ROW 1: Knit 7, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 12, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 7 = 32 stitches.
ROW 2: Knit.
ROW 3: Knit.
ROW 4: Knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, Knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, Knit 6, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, knit 4 = 24 stitches.

Work 2 ridges back and forth over all stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

NOSE:
Now increase for the nose as follows:
ROW 1: Knit 10, 1 yarn over, knit 4, 1 yarn over, knit 10 = 26 stitches.
ROW 2: Knit 10, knit the yarn over twisted (to avoid a hole), 1 yarn over, knit 4, 1 yarn over, knit the yarn over twisted, knit 10 = 28 stitches.
ROW 3: Knit 11, knit the yarn over twisted, 1 yarn over, knit 4, 1 yarn over, knit the yarn over twisted, knit 11 = 30 stitches.
ROWS 4-6: Work in the same way as row 3 but working 1 more knitted stitch at the beginning and end of the row, before/after the increase = 36 stitches.

Work 1 ridge over all stitches.

Now decrease for the nose as follows:
ROW 1: Knit 14, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 14 = 34 stitches.
ROW 2: Knit 13, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 13 = 32 stitches.
ROWS 3-6: Work in the same way as row 2 but working 1 less knitted stitch at the beginning and end of the row, before/after the decrease = 24 stitches.

Work 2 ridges over all stitches.

BODY AND ARMS:
Knit the first 9 head-stitches, cast on 4 stitches for the arm. Turn, work 10 ridges back and forth over the 8 outermost stitches, then cast off with knit from the right side. Cut the strand, leaving an end of 25 cm (to sew the arm-seam with). The first arm is finished
Continue the body as follows: Knit the next 10 body-stitches, cast on 4 stitches for the arm. Turn, work 10 ridges back and forth over the 8 outermost stitches, then cast off with knit from the right side. Cut the strand, leaving an end of 25 cm. The second arm is finished. Knit the last 5 stitches.
Work as follows from the wrong side: Knit 5 (body), fold the arm double and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 4 cast-on stitches, skip the last 4 arm-stitches, knit 6 (between the arms), fold the second arm double and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 4 cast-on stitches, skip the last 4 arm-stitches, knit 5 = 24 stitches. Insert 1 marker – the piece is now measured from here.

BODY AND LEGS:
Work garter stitch back and forth over all 24 stitches for 7 cm (= approx. 16 ridges). Cast off a little loosely, with knit from the right side.

ASSEMBLY:
Embroider the nose and eyes with left-over yarn.
The nose has 4-5 vertical flat stitches, each 1 cm long - see diagram A and photo.
The eyes are worked with French knots – see diagram B and photo.
Sew the back seam – sewing edge to edge in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so the seam is flat.
Sew together the top of the head. Sew each arm seamy – sewing in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch. Tack a strand through the stitches as the bottom of each arm, tighten and fasten well.
Fill the arms and body with wadding.
Sew the bottom of the body together, then sew a leg-seam through both layers and wadding to separate the legs – leg-length = approx. 1/3 of body-length.

Diagram

symbols = Flat stitch, Pictures 1-4
PICTURE 1: Insert the needle from the wrong side to the right side, where you wish the stitch to start.
PICTURE 2: Skip 0.5 - 1 cm and thread the needle down and up again to where you want the next flat stitch to start, pull the strand through.
PICTURE 3: Skip 0.5 - 1 cm and thread the needle down and up again to where you want the next flat stitch to start, pull the strand through.
Continue like this until you have enough stitches. Fasten the strand on the wrong side.
PICTURE 4: Flat stitches of different lengths and in different directions.
symbols = French knot, Pictures 1-4
PICTURE 1: Insert the needle from the wrong side and up to the right side where you would like the French knot to be positioned.
PICTURE 2: Wind the strand around the end of the needle 2 to 4 times – depending on how big you wish the knot to be.
PICTURE 3: Thread the needle down, 0.5-1 stitches away from where the strand came up and pull it out on the wrong side.
PICTURE 4: Pulling the strand through the material fastens the French knot. Fasten the strand on the wrong side.
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 46-17) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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5) How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

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6) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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7) What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

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8) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

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9) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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10) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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11) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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13) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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14) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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15) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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16) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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17) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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18) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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19) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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20) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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21) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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22) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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23) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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24) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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25) Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (4)

country flag Lisa wrote:

Bonjour , Est il possible d’avoir une réponse en français à ma demande du 11 février car mon ouvrage est en attente …. Je vous remercie .

16.02.2024 - 11:17

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Lisa, montez ces mailles comme dans cette vidéo / cette leçon et tricotez uniquement les 8 mailles du bras_ pendant 20 rangs (10 côtes mousse), rabattez ces mailles et coupez le fil, tricotez maintenant les 10 mailles sur l'aiguille gauche, montez 4 mailles pour le 2ème bras et tricotez le 2ème bras sur les 20 mailles, rabattez et tricotez les 5 dernières mailles du corps. Bon tricot!

19.02.2024 - 15:49

country flag Louise Hedegaard wrote:

Hejsa! Jeg forstår ikke formuleringen “ Strik de første 9 masker fra hovedet ret, slå derefter 4 nye masker op på pinden til arm.”. Strikker man de første 9 masker og tager derefter 4m ud, eller tages de 4m ud yderst på pinden? Hvis jeg strikker 9 og tager 4 ud og så vender og strikker 20p over de første 8, er armen jo 5m inde på kroppen som ser meget forkert ud.

11.02.2024 - 22:14

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Louise, jo det stemmer, du slår 4 nye masker op og strikker over de yderste 8 masker, hvor så armen er inde i kroppen.

22.02.2024 - 11:25

country flag Lisa wrote:

Bonjour ,\r\nJ’ai tricoté sans problème la tête et les oreilles ainsi que le nez de l’ours , et maintenant je suis bloquée pour le corps et les bras ….il est dit qu’il faut tourner après avoir monté 4 mailles pour le bras. \r\nJe ne comprends pas comment il faut procéder !\r\nY a t-il une vidéo explicative ?\r\nMerci pour votre réponse !\r\nCordialement

11.02.2024 - 14:54

country flag Renée wrote:

Bij de naalden 4-6 bij de neus staat dat er aan het begin & eind van elke naald er een steek aan toegevoegd moet worden. Op welke manier gaat dit? Optie 1: Meerder na 1e steek & voor laatste steek, dus 1 stk recht, 1 omslag gedr., 30 stkn recht, 1 omslag gedr., 1 stk recht. Etc. Optie 2: Meerder voor 1e steek & na 1e steek, dus: Naald 4: meerder 1 stk, 31 stkn recht (incl extra stk), meerder 1 stk Naald 5: meerder 1 stk, 33 stken recht (incl extra stk), meerder 1 stk etc.

03.01.2024 - 12:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Renée,

Op naald 3 brei je 11 steken recht voordat je een omslag maakt en op naald 4 worden dat er 12. Het zelfde geldt voor na de omslag, dan brei je ook 1 steek meer dan de naald ervoor.

07.01.2024 - 13:38

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