DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.20 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24
DROPS 242-31
DROPS Design: Pattern z-1002
Yarn group A + A or C
-------------------------------------------------------

SIZE:
One size
Fits head-size approx.: 54/58 cm

YARN:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50 g colour 607, brown
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
25 g colour 35, chocolate

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need an 80 cm circular needle.

KNITTING TENSION:
20 stitches in width and 27 rows in height with stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.20 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

HAT - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles, top down. Change to circular needle when necessary as you increase.

HAT:
Cast on 7 stitches with double pointed needles size 3.5 mm, 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (2 strands). Leave strand lengths of 20 cm to use when tightening the hole to finish.
ROUND 1: * Knit 1, make 1 yarn over *, work from *-* over all stitches = 14 stitches.
ROUND 2: Knit (yarn overs knitted twisted).
ROUND 3: * Knit 1, make 1 yarn over *, work from *-* over all stitches = 28 stitches.
ROUND 4: * Knit 1, purl 1 twisted *, work from *-* over all stitches.
ROUND 5: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* over all stitches.
ROUND 6: * Knit 1 in first stitch without slipping it off the left needle, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 in the same stitch, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 in the same stitch and slip the stitch off the left needle (4 increased stitches), purl 1, knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* over all stitches = 56 stitches.
ROUND 7: * Knit 1, purl 1 twisted, knit 1, purl 1 twisted, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* over all stitches.
ROUNDS 8-9: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* over all stitches.
ROUND 10: * Knit 1, purl 1, knit 1 in the next stitch without slipping it off the left needle, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 in the same stitch, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 in the same stitch and slip the stitch off the left needle (4 increased stitches), purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* over all stitches = 84 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

ROUND 11: * Knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1 twisted, knit 1, purl 1 twisted, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* over all stitches.
ROUNDS 12-13: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* over all stitches
ROUND 14: * Knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1 in the next stitch without slipping it off the left needle, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 in the same stitch, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 in the same stitch and slip the stitch off the left needle (4 increased stitches), purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* over all stitches = 112 stitches.
ROUND 15: * Knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1 twisted, knit 1, purl 1 twisted, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1*, work from *-* over all stitches.

Continue with knit over knit and purl over purl until the hat measures 31 cm. Cast off with purl. The hat measures approx. 25 cm with a 6 cm fold-up. Tack the casting-on strands around the hole at the top, tighten and fasten well.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 242-31

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (9)

country flag Julie Trrnavsky wrote:

Round 10 1st part looks like 6 increased stiches not 4? K1,p1,k1,yo,k1 yo,k1? Or is it k1,p1,k1,yo,k1 increase 4?

29.02.2024 - 20:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Julie, start the round by working k1 and p1. Now work as follows all in one stitch: knit the stitch without slipping it off the needle, yarn over, knit 1 stitch in the same stitch, yarn over, knit in the same stitch and slip the stitch off the needle. So you should have the initial stitch + 4 more stitches from this stitch. Happy knitting!

29.02.2024 - 22:41

country flag Melanie Farnfield wrote:

Hi, Row 10, is not written clearly, if it helps, the first stitch you knit, the second stitch you purl and in the third stitch you do your 4 stitch increase. There will be a slight hole, that will create a pattern, these should be aligned.

11.02.2024 - 02:49

country flag Monika wrote:

Hi all, I think the problem some have with round 10 is a translation issue. Round 10 has to start with 1 knit, 1 purl as in English description: "ROUND 10: * Knit 1, purl 1, knit 1 in the next stitch without slipping it off the left needle.." But in German, it immediately starts with the 5over1 pattern: "10. RUNDE: * 1 Masche rechts in die erste Masche ohne die Masche von der linken Nadel gleiten zu lassen..." Happy knitting!

21.01.2024 - 20:26

country flag LYDIA wrote:

Est-ce que ce modèle peut se tricoter avec seulement un fil ou deux même fils (fingering) ? Merci !

06.01.2024 - 14:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Lydia, on tricote ici avec 2 fils du groupe de fils A (Alpaca : sport et Kid-Silk: Lace - plus d'infos ici; vous pouvez remplacer ces 2 fils par un autre fil du groupe A de sorte que vous tricotez toujours avec 2 fils du groupe A ou bien avec 1 seul fil mais du groupe de fils C. Pensez toujours à bien vérifier votre tension au préalable - ajustez la taille des aiguilles si besoin. Bon tricot!

08.01.2024 - 10:06

country flag Linda wrote:

Hej! Vad betyder *-*? Vänlig hälsning Linda

19.12.2023 - 07:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Linda, det betyder at du gentager det som står mellem * - altså fra * til * :)

19.12.2023 - 12:00

country flag Laura wrote:

Hello, I have the problem that there are holes in the first rows caused by adding the four stitches. How can I fix this?

19.11.2023 - 08:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Laura, make sure to now work to loose, the yarn overs will be worked twisted on next round to avoid large holes. Happy knitting!

20.11.2023 - 10:37

country flag Amelie wrote:

Hello, ich have a similar question like the one before. When I have 56 sts in Round 9, I will repeat the *-* in round 10 for 9 times and have 2 sets left in this round. How is it possible to have 84sts after round 10?

12.11.2023 - 19:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Amelie, take into account that in each * to * section you have 4 yarn overs, so you increase 4 stitches. Each section of * to * is 8 stitches + 4 increases. Since you had 56 stitches, that means that you repeat the * to * 7 times in total, and you increase 28 stitches. 56+28 = 84 stitches. If it helps, round 10 is worked almost identically to round 6, especially the increases. Happy knitting!

12.11.2023 - 23:28

country flag Paula Fogarty wrote:

Increase round 10 and 14 seems to have so many stitches worked in first stitch it surly increases more than 4 stitches. ki p1 k1 yo k1 yo k1 - does that 7 stitches?

01.11.2023 - 22:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Fogarty, on round 10 you will repeat a total of 6 times the section between stars, so that you increase 4 sts a total of 7 times, there were 56 sts + (4x7) = there are now 84 sts on needle. On round 14, you will repeat 7 times from *-* and increase each time 4 sts = 84+ (4x7)=112 sts. Happy knitting!

03.11.2023 - 07:01

country flag @binarygoose wrote:

Winter chocolate

03.08.2023 - 18:25