DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Sweet Teddy Balaclava

Knitted hat / balaclava for baby and children in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Piece is knitted in moss stitch with ears. Size 1 month - 4 years

DROPS Baby 42-21
DROPS design: Pattern me-074-by
Yarn group B

1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2- 3/4) years
Fits head circumference in cm:
Approx. 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50 - 50/52)

DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100-150-150 (150-150) g colour 01, off white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 mm: Length: 40 cm

22 stitches in width and 33 rows vertically in moss stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.



ROUND/ROW 1: Knit 1, purl 1.
ROUND/ROW 2: Knit over purl and purl over knit.
Repeat 2nd row/round upwards.




Hat is worked in 2 parts back and forth, before slipping them together and working in the round. Decrease stitches for opening at the front and continue piece back and forth, before increasing stitches and working in the round again. Finish with a double edge around the opening for face.

Cast on 23-25-27 (29-31) stitches on a circular needle size 3.5 mm with DROPS Merino Extra Fine.
Work in MOSS STITCH - read explanation above, and increase 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in each side of piece on every row from right side 4-5-5 (5-7) times in total = 31-35-37 (39-45) stitches. Work the increased stitches in moss stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 7-8-9 (10-11) cm, put piece aside and work the back piece.

Cast on and work as front piece.

Slip all stitches on to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm = 62-70-74 (78-90) stitches.
Work 3 cm rib (= knit 1/purl 1) the entire round. Then work the first 16-18-19 (20-23) stitches again, to displace the round to the middle of front piece.
Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work in moss stitch. On first round increase 1 stitch = 63-71-75 (79-91) stitches.
The moss stitch in the transition between round looks best when number of stitches is divisible by 2 +1.
When piece measures 2-2-3 (3-3) cm from rib, cast off stitches for face as follows:
Cast off the first 6-7-8 (9-10) stitches, work as before until 6-7-8 (9-10) stitches remain and cast off the last stitches = 51-57-59 (61-71) stitches. Cut the yarn.
Then work back and forth on circular needle size 3.5 mm.
Insert a marker in the middle stitch on needle (mid back). On next row from right side, increase 1 stitch on each side of stitch with marker. Work yarn overs twisted on next row.
Work the increased stitches in moss stitch.
Increase like this every 4th row 4-4-4 (6-4) times in total = 59-65-67 (73-79) stitches.
When piece measures 13-14-16 (17-18) cm from rib, increase 1 stitch inside 1 stitch in each side of piece on next row from right side. Work the increased stitches in moss stitch. Increase like this on every row from right side 4 times in total = 67-73-75 (81-87) stitches.
At the end of next row from right side cast on 8-8-10 (10-12) stitches mid front = 75-81-85 (91-99) stitches. Continue piece in the round in moss stitch.
When piece measures 20-22-24 (26-27) cm from rib, cast off.

Pick up approx. 84 to 120 stitches around the opening for face on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm. Adjust so that number of stitches is divisible by 2.
Work rib (knit 1/purl 1) for 4 cm. Cast off somewhat loosely, with double pointed needles size 3.5 mm.
Fold the edge double towards inside of hat and fasten cast-off edge to where stitches were picked up around the opening for face.
Place hat flat with face up and sew together hat at the top.
Tight the outermost approx. 5½ cm at the top of each corner together and fasten with a strand (= ears).

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS Baby 42-21

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Comments / Questions (16)

country flag Eve wrote:

Hei, onko "etukappale" ja "myssy" osioissa mennyt pyörö- ja sukkapuikot sekaisin? Alussa tulisi työn olla tasona vaikka muka pyöröpuikot, ja "myssy" osiossa puhutaan suljetusta neuleesta vaikka tulisi muka olla sukkapuikot...?

24.02.2024 - 19:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, työ neulotaan aluksi tasona pyöröpuikolla, mutta voit halutessasi neuloa tämän osuuden paripuikoilla. Myssy neulotaan suljettuna neuleena sukkapuikoilla, koska silmukoita on niin vähän, että pyöröpuikolla neulominen olisi hankalaa.

04.03.2024 - 17:40

country flag Brigitte wrote:

Wo werden am Ende die Maschen aufgenommen? 8-8-10 (10-12)? Wo ist die vordere Mitte zum Maschen anschlagen?

19.11.2023 - 22:10

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Brigitte, diese Maschen (für das vordere Mitte) werden am Ende einer Hinreihe angeschlagen, dann wird die Arbeit in Runden gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

20.11.2023 - 11:26

country flag Patricia wrote:

How can this be adjusted to omit the ears and thus make it more fitted to the head?

16.05.2023 - 22:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Patricia, that might be possible, you can find inpsiration from our patterns for balaclavas here. Happy knitting!

17.05.2023 - 08:11

country flag Ann-Helén wrote:

Lurer på om dere kan legge ut en film som viser hvordan man lager ørene? Evt. forklare denne delen litt nærmere. Får det ikke like fint til som på bildet..

21.03.2023 - 21:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Ann-Helén Vi har dessverre ingen video på ørene. Når du legger luen flatt har du 2 hjørner øverst, snurp de ytterste ca 5-6 cm øverst i hvert hjørne sammen og fest de med en tråd. For å få de pene er det jo godt mulig du må sy ørene fast med noen ekstra sting, slik at du får de slik du ønsker. mvh DROPS Design

27.03.2023 - 10:39

country flag Walli Klopf wrote:

Die Mütze ist wirklich süß. Allerdings wäre ein 'Schnittbogen', also ein Schema bzw. eine Zeichnung mit cm-Angaben sehr hilfreich! (ähnlich wie bei Kleidchen, etc.). Gibt es so eine Zeichnung?

11.03.2023 - 13:14

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Klopf, solche Zeichnungen haben wir nicht, aber sollte Ihre Maschenprobe stimmen, dann bekommen Sie das gleiche Ergebnis wie im Foto für jede Größe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

13.03.2023 - 09:28

country flag Gudrun wrote:

Ich versuche die schalmütze für mein Enkelkind zu stricken. Leider komme ich nicht ganz mit zurecht. Ich habe 81 maschen auf der nadel. Muss ich nach den Runden oben die Mütze zusammen nähen. Ist mir so fremd . Ich habe für meine Kinder die Art ganz viel gestrickt nur die Anleitung nicht mehr. Also nach dem stricken oben zusammen nähen?? Danke

19.12.2022 - 12:23

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Gudrun, ja genau, legen Sie die Schalmütze flach, mit der Öffnung für das Gesicht oben - die obere Kante nähen Sie zusammen oben von einer Seite bis die anderen, die 2 Ecken rechts und links werden dann diagonal genäht um die Ohren wie im Foto zu machen. Viel Spaß beim weiterstricken!

19.12.2022 - 13:10

country flag Esther wrote:

Hallo, ich hab bei der Art Formulierung ein Brett vorm Kopf: "Bei einer Länge von 13-14-16 (17-18) cm ab dem Rippenmuster in der nächsten Hin-Reihe je 1 Masche nach der ersten und vor der letzten Masche, d.h. beidseitig, zunehmen. " Wird hier gemessen ab Beginn des Rippenmusters (unterer Rand des Rippenmusters) oder ab Ende des Rippenmusters (oberer Rand des Musters)? Danke und liebe Grüße!

11.11.2022 - 10:36

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Esther, die Arbeit wird ab Begin des Rippenmusters gemessen, dh ab Abteil "MÜTZE". Viel Spaß beim stricken!

14.11.2022 - 08:40

country flag Kayleigh wrote:

Het is me niet duidelijk waar de breinaalden zonder kop voor worden gebruikt. Het lijkt alsof de rondbreinaalden gebruikt worden om op en neer te breien en de naalden zonder kop om rond te breien. Waarom zou je dan niet de rondbreinaalden gebruiken om rond te breien en breinaalden met kop om op en neer te breien? sectie: "MUTS"

18.10.2022 - 19:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Kayleigh,

In plaats van naalden zonder knop zou je inderdaad ook een rondbreinaald kunnen gebruiken voor de rand rondom de opening voor het gezicht.

19.10.2022 - 20:15

country flag Fé wrote:

Het is me niet duidelijk wat jullie bedoelen met Meerder bij een hoogte van 13-14-16 (17-18) cm vanaf de boordsteek, 1 steek aan de binnenkant van de 1 steek aan elke kant van het werk op de volgende naald aan de goede kant. Welke steek is hier ‘de een steek’? De eerste steek? De middelste steek en dan aan beide kanten meerderen) hopelijk hebben jullie opheldering!

07.10.2022 - 08:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Fé,

Hiermee wordt de buitenste steek aan elke kant van de naald bedoeld. Dus de eerste en de laatste steek op de naald.

08.10.2022 - 16:32

country flag Gudrun Koch wrote:

Hallo, ich bin nun am finalen Ende angekommen, wo es darum geht, die Mütze oben zusammen zu nähen und die äußeren Ecken zusammen zu ziehen, um die Öhrchen zu erhalten! Da kann ich mir leider nichts drunter vorstellen! Können Sie mir das näher erklären! LG Gudrun Koch

28.09.2022 - 20:42

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Koch, wenn die Mütze fertig ist, legen Sie sie flach so daß sich die Gesichtsöffnung oben befindent, mit Blick auf Sie, so nähen Sie die obere Naht flach zusammen von einer Seite zu der andere. Umschließen Sie mit einem Faden eine der Ecken ca. 5,5 cm und ziehen Sie fest an, um das Ohr zu formen. Das 2. Ohr genauso machen. Viel Spaß beim fertigstellen!

29.09.2022 - 08:38