The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
All measurements in charts are in cm.
= knit from right side, purl from wrong side |
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= purl from right side, knit from wrong side |
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= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over (= hole) |
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= knit 2 together |
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= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch |
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= cable. This is worked differently before and after the mid-stitch. BEFORE the mid-stitch work the cable as follows: Place 4 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 4, knit 4 stitches from the cable needle. AFTER the mid-stitch work the cable as follows: Place 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Winter Storm |
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Knitted shawl with cables and garter stitch in DROPS Sky. The piece is worked top down.
DROPS 203-18 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth): Knit all rows. 1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.12. Pattern A.a is worked first, then the A.b-patterns are repeated over the A.a-patterns upwards to finished length. The diagrams show all the rows in the patterns seen from the right side. BINDING-OFF TIP: To avoid the bind-off edge being tight make 1 yarn over after each 4th stitch; this yarn over is worked and bind off as a normal stitch. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- SHAWL – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: The shawl is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down. SHAWL: Cast on 7 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and Sky. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Work as follows from the right side: Work 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * A.1a (= 1 stitch), A.2a (= 1 stitch) *, 1 mid-stitch in stockinette stitch, work from *-* 1 more time and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this pattern. The yarn overs are worked twisted to avoid holes. The increases are drawn in the diagrams; 4 stitches are increased on the first increase-row, 8 stitches on the 2nd. Then 4 stitches are increased on the 3rd increase-row and 8 stitches on the 4th and 5th. The 3rd to 5th increase-rows are repeated in height to finished length (apart from the last increase in A.7/A.8 and A.11a/A.12a). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When A.1a and A.2a have been completed 1 time in height there are 79 stitches on the needle. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * A.3a (= 1 stitch), A.1b (= 18 stitches), A.2b (= 18 stitches), A.4a (= 1 stitch) *, 1 mid-stitch in stockinette stitch, work from *-* 1 more time and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. A.1b and A.2b are repeated in height to finished length. When A.3a and A.4a have been completed 1 time in height there are 179 stitches on the needle. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * A.5a (= 4 stitches), A.3b (= 22 stitches), A.1b and A.2b as before (= a total of 36 stitches), A.4b (= 22 stitches), A.6a (= 4 stitches) *, 1 mid-stitch in stockinette stitch, work from *-* 1 more time and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. A.3b and A.4b are repeated in height to finished length. When A.5a and A.6a have been completed 1 time in height there are 259 stitches on the needle. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * A.7a (= 2 stitches), A.5b (= 22 stitches), A.1b to A.4b as before (= a total of 80 stitches), A.6b (= 22 stitches), A.8a (= 2 stitches) *, 1 mid-stitch in stockinette stitch, work from *-* 1 more time and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. A.5b and A.6b are repeated in height to finished length. When A.7a and A.8a have been completed 1 time in height there are 355 stitches on the needle. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * A.5a (= 4 stitches), A.5b (= 22 stitches), A.1b to A.6b as before (= a total of 124 stitches), A.6b (= 22 stitches), A.6a (= 4 stitches) *, 1 mid-stitch in stockinette stitch, work from *-* 1 more time and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. A.5b and A.6b are repeated in height to finished length. When A.5a and A.6a have been completed 1 time in height there are 435 stitches on the needle. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * A.9a (= 2 stitches), A.9b (= 22 stitches), A.1b to A.6b as before (= a total of 168 stitches), A.10b (= 22 stitches), A.10a (= 2 stitches) *, 1 mid-stitch in stockinette stitch, work from *-* 1 more time and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. A.9b and A.10b are repeated in height to finished length. When A.9a and A.10a have been completed 1 time in height there are 531 stitches on the needle. The piece measures approx. 50 cm = 19¾" measured in the knitting direction (measured between A.1 and A.2) and approx. 71 cm = 28" measured along the mid-stitch. If you have not reached these measurements continue working to correct length: The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * A.11a (= 4 stitches), A.9b (= 22 stitches), A.1b to A.10b as before (= a total of 256 stitches), A.10b (= 22 stitches), A.12a (= 4 stitches) *, 1 mid-stitch in stockinette stitch, work from *-* 1 more time and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Work until the piece measures approx. 71 cm = 28", measured along the mid-stitch – adjust so you finish on a row from the wrong side. Work 2 ridges. Bind off with knit over knit, purl over purl and garter stitch over garter stitch; make sure the bind-off edge is not tight - read BINDING OFF TIP. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogs and 11422 patterns - 11417 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (29)
Lærke Toft wrote:
Hej! Jeg er i gang med A.1a og A.2a, og ud fra diagrammet ser det ud til, at der skal strikkes retstrik (ret på retsiden, ret på vrangsiden). Men på billedet af sjalet ligner det, at A.1a+A.2s-stykket er glatstrik. Skal jeg bare fortsætte efter diagrammet, og så vil det løse sig, eller læser jeg det forkert? Tak!
14.12.2020 - 15:31DROPS Design answered:
Hei Lærke. Man starter med diagram A.1a og A.2a som er begynnelsen av sjalet og strikker ovenfra og ned til tuppen. Tuppen av sjalet er A.11a og A.12a, som innholder både glattstrikk, riller, hull og hullmønster. Mvh DROPS design
18.12.2020 - 09:26Ghislaine Ethier wrote:
Merci beaucoup de votre aide j'ai enfin compris vos explication pour le 5 Ieme rang je vais enfin pouvoir le faire !!! En passant vous avez des très beaux modèle merci encore !!!
05.11.2020 - 12:18Ghislaine Ethier wrote:
Bonjour j’essaie de faire ce magnifique châle mais au rangs 5 ça ne marche pas j’ai une maille de trop le schéma est très compliqué à suivre les explications sont très mal inscrite !!! Pourriez-vous m’aider avez vous d’autres explications mieux que ça merci j’attends votre réponse
05.11.2020 - 00:56DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Ethier, à la fin du 4ème rang, vous devez avoir 4 m dans A.1a et dans A.1b, autrement dit, vous tricoterez le rang 5 ainsi: 1 m lis, *A.1a (= 1 jeté, 4 m end), A.2a (= 4 m end, 1 jeté), 1 m centrale en jersey, tricotez de *-* encore 1 fois, 1 m lis = 23 m. Retrouvez ici comment lire des diagrammes si besoin. N'hésitez pas à utiliser des marqueurs pour délimiter chaque diagramme et ainsi pouvoir vérifier votre nombre de mailles à chaque rang/chaque diagramme. Bon tricot!
05.11.2020 - 10:31Jeannette wrote:
Quiero hacerles una observación, entre las trenzas, según el patrón, se teje punto correteado y la foto muestra punto jersey. El patrón dice, en el cuadro blanco punto derecho al derecho y revés al revés; el cuadrado con un punto negro, se teje derecho al revéz, da pto correteado. yo destejí cada fila y lo volví a tejer en punto jersey para que me quedara igual. Favor revisar. Aun estoy tejiendo. uff, es lindo
10.05.2020 - 00:29Jeannette wrote:
Hola, gracias por su respuesta. Me costó algo más de una hora entender cómo iniciaba el tejido, gracias al traductor de Google, y a la respuesta de otras preguntas, lo conseguí. De todos modos me ayudará su Link.
10.05.2020 - 00:27Jeannette wrote:
Hola, no entiendo como van los aumentos del chal, y los patrones cómo los puedo leer, los centros donde van los 0 0 (circulos aumentos) son el centro, se leen del dentro hacia afuera, entonces el centro es la orilla del tejido. Los aumentos donde se hacen, al comienzo del tejido, o en el centro. No sé ni cómo preguntar. espero me puedan orientar por favor.
25.04.2020 - 01:45DROPS Design answered:
Hola Jeannette. El chal se trabaja de la siguiente manera: 1 punto orillo, A.1a, A.2a, punto central, A.1a, A.2a, 1 punto orillo. Aquí tienes un tutorial sobre cómo leer los diagramas: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=68&cid=23
28.04.2020 - 18:31Ingrid Kerkhof wrote:
Ik heb daarnet een een vraag gesteld, maar ik zie nu wat ik fout doe. ik ga het opnieuw proberen.
01.02.2020 - 09:40Ingrid Kerkhof wrote:
Ik heb hetzelfde probleem als mevr. Peeters. Waar jullie zeggen 8 steken te meerderen, zie ik er maar 4. Kunt u dat uitleggen?
01.02.2020 - 09:31DROPS Design answered:
Dag Ingrid,
Dankjewel voor de terugkoppeling hierboven. Veel breiplezier :) !
09.02.2020 - 21:02Claudine Mongillon wrote:
Bonjour nous somme plusieurs a ne pas comprendre le diagramme surtout le début avec 7 mailles merci
30.01.2020 - 09:27DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Mongillon, vous devez tricoter ces 7 mailles ainsi: 1 m lisière,[A.1a (= 1 m au 1er rang), A.2a (= 1 m au 1er rang)], 1 m jersey (= maille centrale), [A.1a(= 1 m au 1er rang), A.2a (= 1 m au 1er rang)], 1 m point mousse.. Au 1er rang de ces diagrammes, vous augmentez 1 m, vous augmentez donc 4 m au 1er rang= vous avez 11 m à la fin du 1er rang. Continuez ainsi en tricotant les diagrammes comme expliqué dans la légende = vous augmentez au début de A.1a (= après la m lis et la m centrale) et à la fin de A.2a (avant la m centrale et avant la m lis). Bon tricot!
30.01.2020 - 09:50Claudine Mongillon wrote:
Bonsoir nous somme plusieurs personne d'un groupe pour faire ce chale mais impossible de comprendre le diagramme il i a peut etre une erreur merci
29.01.2020 - 18:14DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Mongillon, que ne comprenez-vous pas dans les diagrammes? Avez-vous déjà lu comment lire un diagramme? N'hésitez pas à être plus précise dans votre question pour que nous puissions vous aider - ou bien adressez-vous directement à votre magasin DROPS, même par mail ou téléphone - pour toute assistance personnalisée. Bon tricot!
30.01.2020 - 09:07