Alanna Headband by DROPS Design

Čelenka s copánky pletená kolmo, napříč z příze DROPS Air.

Tagy: čelenky, copánek, kolmo, pokrývky hlavy, soupravy

DROPS Extra 0-1320
DROPS design: model č. ai-040
Skupina přízí: C nebo A + A
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Velikost: jednotná

Materiál:
DROPS AIR firmy Garnstudio
50 g, barva č. 10, mlha

DROPS JEHLICE č. 4,5 – nebo velikosti potřebné k upletení zkušebního vzorku o rozměrech 18 ok x 23 řad lícovým žerzejem = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS JEHLICE č. 3,5 – na lemy.
DROPS POMOCNÁ JEHLICE COPÁNKOVÁ – na pletení copánků.

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Zkušební vzorek – Podívejte se, jak ho měřit a proč
Náhradní příze – Podívejte se, jak změnit přízi
Skupina přízí A až F – Neměňte návod, změňte přízi
Spotřeba příze při použití náhradní příze – Využijte náš převodník

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Potřebujete radu?
Tisk
- Návod
- Foto

Česká republika

DROPS Air
65% alpaka, 28% polyamid, 7% vlna

od 147.00 Kč /50g

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	DROPS Air mix	147.00 Kč /50g Ganella	Objednat
	DROPS Air uni colour	147.00 Kč /50g Ganella	Objednat

Jehlice a háčky

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Přízi na tento model můžete mít už za 147Kč. Více zde.

Návod

VROUBKOVÝ VZOR:
Pleteme stále hladce, lícové i rubové řady. 1 vroubek = 2 řady hladce.

VZOR:
Viz schémata A.1 a A.2. Zobrazeny jsou všechny řady vzoru nahlížené z lícové strany.
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ČELENKA:
Pleteme kolmo, napříč, v řadách až do požadované délky.

Na jehlice č.3,5 nahodíme přízí Air 19 ok a upleteme 1 vroubek VROUBKOVÝM VZOREM – viz výše. Pak pleteninu převedeme na jehlice č. 4,5 a následující lícovou řadu pleteme takto: 2 krajová oka vroubkovým vzorem, vzor A.1 (= 15 ok) a 2 krajová oka vroubkovým vzorem. Stejným způsobem upleteme rubovou řadu = na jehlici máme 24 ok. Další lícovou řadu pleteme takto: 2 krajová oka vroubkovým vzorem, vzor A.2 (= 20 ok) a 2 krajová oka vroubkovým vzorem. V tomto rozvržení vzoru pokračujeme. Ve výši asi 46-50 cm (nebo jiné libovolné výšce – čelenka by měla být asi o 6 cm kratší než je obvod hlavy) pleteme 1 řadu hladce a SOUČASNĚ ujmeme 1 oko nad copánkem na začátku a na konci řady a 3 oka nad copánkem uprostřed (ujímáme spletením 2 ok hladce) = na jehlici zbývá 19 ok. Pleteninu převedeme na jehlice č. 3,5 a upleteme 1 rubovou řadu hladce. Pak všechna oka z lícové strany hladce uzavřeme.

DOKONČENÍ:
Čelenku sešijeme.

Schéma

	= lícový žerzej (líc hladce, rub obrace)
	= rubový žerzej (líc obrace, rub hladce)
	= 1 oko rozpleteme na dvě (= 1 oko přidáme)
	= 3 oka odložíme na pomocnou jehlici PŘED práci, 3 oka upleteme hladce, 3 oka z pom.jehlice hladce
	= 3 oka odložíme na pomocnou jehlici ZA práci, 3 oka upleteme hladce, 3 oka z pom.jehlice hladce
	= 3 oka odložíme na pomocnou jehlici PŘED práci, 2 oka upleteme obrace, 3 oka z pom.jehlice hladce
	= 2 oka odložíme na pomocnou jehlici ZA práci, 3 oka upleteme hladce, 2 oka z pom.jehlice obrace

Potřebujete poradit s tímto návodem?

Děkujeme, že jste si vybrali návod DROPS Design. Zakládáme si na tom, že dáváme k dispozici návody ověřené a snadno srozumitelné. Všechny návody jsou přeložené z norského originálu a tak si můžete kdykoli srovnat rozměry a počty s původním návodem (DROPS Extra 0-1320) .

Máte s návodem potíže? Níže najdete seznam odkazů, které vám pomohou dokončit vaše dílo co nejdříve - nebo se třeba přiučit něco nového.

Máte s návodem potíže? Níže najdete seznam odkazů, které vám pomohou dokončit vaše dílo co nejdříve - nebo se třeba přiučit něco nového.

Každý náš návod je doprovázen speciálními video-ukázkami, které vás navedou.

Tyto podrobné video-návody vás povedou "krok za krokem":

Máme takopodrobné rozpisy různých technik a postupů krok za krokem - najdete je zde.

A velmi užitečný slovníček!

Chcete se na něco zeptat? Projděte si seznam nejčastějších otázek (FAQ)..

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

2) What are the yarn groups?

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

8) What is a repeat?

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

nahoru

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

nahoru

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

nahoru

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

nahoru

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

nahoru

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

nahoru

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

nahoru

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

nahoru

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

nahoru

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

nahoru

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

nahoru

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

nahoru

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

nahoru

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

nahoru

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

nahoru

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

nahoru

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

nahoru

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

nahoru

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

nahoru

Pořídili jste si přízi DROPS na tento model? Pak máte taky právo žádat po svém prodejci, u něhož jste nakoupili, pomoc a rady. Seznam DROPS obchodů najdete tady!

Pořád se nemůžete dobrat odpovědi, kterou hledáte? Pak posuňte stránku dolů a napište nám svůj dotaz, naši specialisté se vám pokusí poradit. Obvykle to zvládneme během 5 až 10 pracovních dnů.. Mezitím si můžete pročíst otázky a odpovědi, které k tomuto modelu položili ostatní, nebo navštívit skupinu DROPS Workshop na Facebooku, kde vám může poradit některá spřízněná duše!

Komentáře / Otázky (7)

Astrid wrote:

Bonjour serait-il possible de faire une vidéo explicative avec une voix et en montrant bien les étapes s’il vous plaît ?

26.11.2022 - 09:16

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Astrid, suivez attentivement les explications écrites, vous trouverez une aide pour lire les diagrammes ici et des vidéos montrant comment tricoter une torsade (suivez bien le nombre de mailles du diagramme). Nous ne pouvons faire de vidéos avec un audio en français (ni en anglais) car nous sommes présent au niveau international et tout le monde ne comprend pas le français (l'anglais). Mais votre magasin DROPS saura vous aider et vous conseiller, même par mail ou téléphone si besoin. Bon tricot!

28.11.2022 kl. 10:54

Alice wrote:

Hi, it’s a beautiful pattern but I don’t exactly understand A.1 pattern and how it connects with A.2. Could I start the headband directly with A.2? Thanks!

30.12.2021 - 01:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Alice, please look at the video HERE. Happy knitting!

30.12.2021 kl. 08:57

ESTRANGIN Marie-Madeleine wrote:

Bonjour, je vois que vous avez corrigé le diagramme en italien (et peut-être dans d'autres langues) : je viens de le tricoter et je n'obtiens pas le résultat escompté. Est-ce que les corrections ont aussi été faites dans la version française ? Merci d'avance

10.12.2020 - 13:57

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Estrangin, le diagramme en français est correct et correspond à la version originale - si vous regardez la photo, considérez que vous le tricotez de droite à gauche (en penchant la tête à gauche, vous aurez le sens du tricot - en espérant être bien claire ainsi). Bon tricot!

10.12.2020 kl. 14:41

Jerome LE MERRE wrote:

Bonjour je cherche le modele du pull col roulé assorti au modèle de bandeau AI-040 l avez vous ? merci beaucoup

07.06.2019 - 08:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Le Merre, le modèle que l'on voit porté avec le bandeau est le poncho Alanna. Bon tricot!

07.06.2019 kl. 09:06

Agga wrote:

God model, dog syntes jeg den var for smal, øgede den med to ekstra kantmasker i hver side. Opskriften er svær grad syntes jeg i starten, men efter at have forstået mønstret gik de fint. Jeg strikkede modellen i moskusuld, den blev flot. Tak for opskriften.

20.02.2019 - 10:07

Steffi wrote:

Guten Tag, mich würde interessieren wie viel Wolle ganz genau benötigt wird, da ich noch einen Rest von der Air zu Hause liegen haben. Dies sind aber keine vollen 50g mehr. Vielen Dank

30.10.2017 - 15:30

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Steffi, leider haben wir nicht das genaue Gewicht von diesem Stirnband, aber sicher brauchen Sie nicht das ganze Knäuel. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

31.10.2017 kl. 09:57

Valentina wrote:

è presente un errore nella descrizione del diagramma, le 3 maglie trasferite nella 6^ riga devono essere lavorate sul davanti del lavoro e non sul dietro, quindi la corretta spiegazione è: "trasferire 3 m su un f ausiliario sul DAVANTI del lavoro, 2 m rov, 3 m dir dal f ausiliario". ciao!

09.01.2017 - 16:43

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Valentina. Abbiamo corretto il testo. La ringraziamo per la segnalazione. Buon lavoro!

09.01.2017 kl. 17:39

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Vyhrazujeme si právo kdykoli stáhnout povolení k užívání, a to bez udání důvodu.