100% Cotton
from 1.10 £ /50g
DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
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DROPS 89-10
Sizes: S/M - M/L - XL/XXL

Length at center front: approx. 47-51-57 cm

Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
300-300-350 gr nr 01, apricot
and use: DROPS VIVALDI from Garnstudio
100-100-100 gr nr 20, watermelon

DROPS 8 mm needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Cotton
from 1.10 £ /50g
DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
find alternatives

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Gauge: 10 sts and garter st = 10 cm.

Pattern: See chart. The pattern is seen from the right side.

Tips: Count the rows at neck when joining pieces so that the neck will be identical at each side.

Poncho: The poncho is knit in two pieces and then sewn together.

1st piece: Loosely cast on 38-41-45 sts with 1 strand Paris + 1 strand Vivaldi (2 strands) and knit 2 rows garter st. Then establish pattern on the next row as follows: * 7-8-10 sts garter st, Pattern 1 (= 8 sts), 8-9-9 sts garter st, Pattern 1 (= 8 sts) and 7-8-10 sts garter st *, repeat * - * until piece measures 66-73-81 cm – adjust after 1 entire repeat of Pattern 1. Knit 2 rows garter st, then bind off all sts loosely.

2nd piece: Cast on and knit the same as the 1st side.

Assembly: Sew the 2 sides together as follows: sew the bound-off edge of 1st piece to the right long side of 2nd piece. Start at lower edge of cast-on edge of 2nd piece and sew to 1st piece along 33-36-40 cm of cast-on edge – see Tips above. Make sure that the seam is not too tight.
Sew bound-off edge of 2nd piece to the long side of 1st piece in the same manner.
Poncho measures approx. 33-36-40 cm from neck and down shoulder, and approx. 47-51-57 cm from neck and down center front.


symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (25)

country flag Pallavi wrote:

1. How much yardage of each colour/ shade is required? 2. Can it be done in single colour/ shade? 3. What is the purpose of using 2 strands of different shades?

15.01.2020 - 15:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Pallavi, you can calculate the total yardage with the amount of yarn matching each size - read more here. You are working here with 2 strands, the both colours were the best matching together as this pattern was written; should you need any further assistance choosing another yarn/any alternative/colours, please contact your DROPS store - even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

15.01.2020 - 15:45

country flag Pallavi wrote:

The pattern requires 300 g of main colour & another 100g of another colour. 1) Cast on is with 2strands - one of each colour. How is that to be done? Alternate colours? Any special technique to be used? 2) the second colour is to be used for how many rows? It is not clear.

12.01.2020 - 08:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Pallavi, this poncho is worked entirely with both yarns, ie 1 strand Paris + 1 strand Vivaldi (you can replace Vivaldi by Brushed Alpaca Silk) as if there were just one yarn. You need a different amount of yarn since both yarns have a different yardage/meterage. Happy knitting!

13.01.2020 - 09:44

country flag Ellen wrote:

Ik snap niet goed hoe ik de poncho in elkaar moet zetten.Wordt het bij de punten dubbel.

03.09.2015 - 15:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Ellen. Bekijk deze video

03.09.2015 - 16:46

Katy wrote:

Hola , el largo del tejido para el talle S , cuantos cm son...gracias

26.12.2014 - 18:41

DROPS Design answered:

El largo en el centro del delantero para la talla S/M es de 47 cm.

01.01.2015 - 11:19

country flag Ciska Nuijten wrote:

Ik snap helemaal niks van deze beschrijving. ik ben al 3 keer opnieuw begonnen

12.03.2014 - 22:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Ciska. Als je zou uitleggen wat je niet begrijpt, dan kan ik proberen je verder te helpen.

13.03.2014 - 17:08

country flag De Veirman Lisa wrote:

Hallo, Of ik zie niet goed meer maar ik zie enkel de uitleg van de ribbelsteek en niet van de kabel. De teltekening zegt ook heel weing. Mvg beginnend breisterke Lisa :-)

20.02.2014 - 12:22

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Lisa. Je kan in onze video's zien hoe je ribbelst moet breien, maar ook een basis kabel. Je kan hier zien hoe je onze teltekeningen moet lezen. Veel breiplezier.

20.02.2014 - 13:59

country flag Raquel wrote:

I am having trouble visualizing how to saw it up, I wish the pattern had a diagram how to do it

20.12.2013 - 19:34

Laura Enríquez Ramírez wrote:

He intentado realizar este patrón pero no me sale, en talla M/L monté los 41 puntos, luego tejí las dos vueltas en punto musgo, posteriormente tej: 8 puntos, luego 9 puntos y posteriormente 8, dan un total de 25 puntos, pero en que parte tejo las trenzas????, además si le sumo los 6 puntos de cada trenza, son 12 puntos, más los 25, son un Total de 37 puntos, qué hago con los otros 4 puntos que me sobran????

23.10.2012 - 21:31

DROPS Design answered:

Laura, debes establecer el patrón de acuerdo a la talla M/L así: 8 pts en pt musgo, diagrama M.1 (= 8 pts), 9 pts en pt musgo, diagrama M.1 (= 8 pts) y 8 pts en pt musgo = 41 pts. Cariños!

23.11.2012 - 08:53

country flag A.J.Schmidt wrote:

Hallo ik heb een vraag zijn dit gewoon 2 rechte lappen?

13.09.2012 - 11:09

DROPS Design answered:

Ja, dat klopt

13.09.2012 - 12:30

country flag Yvonne Barshaw wrote:

Als ik op de foto kijk kkan ik me niet voorstellen dat dit de enige 2 delen zijn. Bij de nek zie ik dat er een heel stuk alleen recht gebreid is. Ik ben gisteren begonnen maar vraag me af of dit goed is deze 2 delen en dan wordt het een poncho.

24.10.2011 - 12:41