DROPS / 121 / 9

Mermaid Twirls by DROPS Design

DROPS vesta se širokým žebrovým lemem z dvojité příze "Alpaca".

DROPS design: Návod č. Z-464
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Velikost: S-M-L-XL-XXL-XXXL

Materiál: DROPS ALPACA firmy Garnstudio
300-350-350-400-450-500 g, barva č. 8105, světlá ocelově modrá

DROPS JEHLICE a KRUHOVÁ JEHLICE (80 cm) č. 4 – nebo velikosti potřebné k upletení zkušebního vzorku o rozměrech 19 ok x 38 řad vroubkovým vzorem dvojitou přízí = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS KRUHOVÁ JEHLICE (80 cm) č. 4,5 – na žebrový lem.

Vyrobili jste si tento nebo nějaký jiný z našich modelů? Přidejte ke svým fotkám na sociálních sítích tag #dropsdesign - díky tomu je uvidíme i my!

Chcete použít jinou přízi? Zkuste náš převodník!
Nejste si jistí, kterou zvolit velikost? Třeba by vám pomohla informace, že modelka na obrázku je vysoká asi 170 cm a nosí velikost S nebo M. Pokud chcete plést/háčkovat pulovr, kabátek, šaty nebo podobný kousek, najdete dole pod návodem nákres s jednotlivými mírami v cm.

100% alpaka
od 71.00 Kč /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 71.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 75.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
Jehlice a háčky
Přízi na tento model můžete mít už za 426Kč. Více zde.

Návod

VZOR:
Viz schémata M. 1 a M. 2 – vzor je nahlížen z lícové strany.

TIP - PŘIDÁVÁNÍ:
Přidáváme vždy v lícových řadách nahozením. V následující řadě pleteme nahození za zadní nit, aby se v pletenině netvořily dírky.
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VESTA:

ZADNÍ DÍL:
Pleteme vroubkovým vzorem, tj. stále hladce, lícové i rubové řady.
Na jehlice č. 4 nahodíme dvojitou přízí Alpaca 70-78-86-96-106-118 ok (včetně 1 krajového oka na každé straně) a pleteme v řadách vroubkovým vzorem. Ve výši 2 cm uzavíráme pro průramky na obou stranách na začátku každé řady: 1x 4 oka, 0-0-0-0-1-1x 3 oka, 0-1-3-5-5-7x 2 oka a 1-2-1-1-1-2x 1 oko = 60-62-64-66-70-72 ok. Pokračujeme do celkové výše pleteniny 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm a následující lícovou řadu pleteme takto:
upleteme 30-31-32-33-35-36 ok, umístíme značku – zde bude začátek kruhové řady (= střed zad) a pleteninu budeme nadále měřit od tohoto místa.

ŽEBROVÝ LEM:
Pleteninu převedeme na kruhovou jehlici č. 4,5. Následujících 30-31-32-33-35-36 ok upleteme hladce, SOUČASNĚ přidáme rovnoměrně 8 ok = 38-39-40-41-43-44 ok. Nyní nahodíme 40-42-45-48-50-52 nových ok (= druhý okraj průramku), pak nabereme podél boční strany zadního dílu před průramkem (2 cm) za krajovými oky 5 ok, nabereme 86-96-108-120-132-146 ok podél počáteční řady zadního dílu (opět nabíráme za krajovými oky), dále nabereme stejným způsobem 5 ok podél druhé boční strany zadního dílu před průramkem (2 cm), nahodíme 40-42-45-48-50-52 nových ok (= druhý okraj druhého průramku) a nakonec upleteme hladce posledních 30-31-32-33-35-36 ok, SOUČASNĚ přidáme rovnoměrně 8 ok.
V tuto chvíli máme na jehlici 252-268-288-308-328-348 ok.
Pokračujeme v kruhových řadách žebrovým vzorem 2/2 (tj. 2 oka hladce, 2 obrace). Když lem měří asi 6 cm, přidáme uprostřed každého obrace pleteného „žebra“ 1 oko – viz TIP! Pokračujeme do výše lemu asi 12 cm a pak přidáme 1 oko uprostřed každého hladce pleteného „žebra“. Pokračujeme do výše lemu asi 19-21-23-26-29-32 cm, kdy začneme plést nad všemi oky vzor M. 1. Po dokončení vzoru M. 1 upleteme 1 kruhovou řadu tak, jak se oka jeví (= žebrový vzor 5/5). V následující kruhové řadě pleteme nad všemi oky vzor M. 2. Po dokončení vzoru M. 2 upleteme 1 kruhovou řadu tak, jak se oka jeví (= žebrový vzor 9/9). V následující kruhové řadě všechna oka volně uzavřeme tak, jak se jeví. Žebrový lem nyní měří asi 20-22-24-27-30-33 cm.

Schéma

= hladce
= 1x nahodíme mezi 2 oky
= obrace
= začátek kruhové řady


Potřebujete poradit s tímto návodem?

Děkujeme, že jste si vybrali návod DROPS Design. Zakládáme si na tom, že dáváme k dispozici návody ověřené a snadno srozumitelné. Všechny návody jsou přeložené z norského originálu a tak si můžete kdykoli srovnat rozměry a počty s původním návodem (DROPS 121-9) .

Máte s návodem potíže? Níže najdete seznam odkazů, které vám pomohou dokončit vaše dílo co nejdříve - nebo se třeba přiučit něco nového.

Máme takopodrobné rozpisy různých technik a postupů krok za krokem - najdete je zde.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

nahoru

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

nahoru

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

nahoru

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

nahoru

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

nahoru

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

nahoru

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

nahoru

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

nahoru

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

nahoru

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

nahoru

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

nahoru

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

nahoru

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

nahoru

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

nahoru

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

nahoru

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

nahoru

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

nahoru

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

nahoru

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

nahoru

Pořídili jste si přízi DROPS na tento model? Pak máte taky právo žádat po svém prodejci, u něhož jste nakoupili, pomoc a rady. Seznam DROPS obchodů najdete tady!
Pořád se nemůžete dobrat odpovědi, kterou hledáte? Pak posuňte stránku dolů a napište nám svůj dotaz, naši specialisté se vám pokusí poradit. Obvykle to zvládneme během 5 až 10 pracovních dnů.. Mezitím si můžete pročíst otázky a odpovědi, které k tomuto modelu položili ostatní, nebo navštívit skupinu DROPS Workshop na Facebooku, kde vám může poradit některá spřízněná duše!

Komentáře / Otázky (21)

Sue 30.07.2019 - 17:31:

Love the design. however i'm a beginner and quite frankly I didn't understand a single word of your pattern. You couldn't print a line by line, stitch by stitch, of the pattern.

DROPS Design 31.07.2019 kl. 08:51:

Hi Sue! If you have any questions do not hesitate to contact us. We will try to help you. Happy knitting!

Olga 13.01.2015 - 10:50:

Hallo, leider verstehe ich das mit dem abketten für das Arm Loch nicht. Wie ist ds zu verstehen "3M. 0-0-0-0-1-1M., 2M. 0-1-3-5-5-5-7 Mal ...ff" Wie oft und wie viel und welcher Reihenfolge soll nun abkettet werden und immer auf der Rechten Seite abketten? Liebe Grüße und Vielen Dank im Voraus!

DROPS Design 28.01.2015 kl. 11:11:

Liebe Olga, entschuldigen Sie die späte Rückmeldung. Welche Größe möchten Sie stricken? 3 M ketten Sie je nach Größe entweder kein Mal ab oder beidseitig je 1 x (in den beiden größten Größen). 2 M ketten Sie beidseitig kein Mal, je 1 x, je 3 x, je 5 x oder je 7 x ab, je nach Größe, zuletzt 1 M je 1x oder 2x, je nach Größe. Sie ketten immer am Anfang jeder R ab, damit ergibt sich dann an der einen Seite am Anfang jeder Hin-R und an der anderen Seite am Anfang jeder Rück-R.

Shalom 01.01.2015 - 11:54:

Ich möchte diese Jacke in Gr. 38 stricken, die liebe Frau, der ich damit eine Freude machen möchte, hat sich für eine 4fach Opalwolle entschieden (425 m auf 100g). Wie muss ich dies jetzt berechnen, damit die Jacke auch wirklich passt?????

DROPS Design 02.01.2015 kl. 22:42:

Leider können wir Ihnen hier keine Umrechnung anbieten. Sie müssen sich an die Maschenprobe halten, damit die Weste die richtigen Maße bekommt, umrechnen führt immer zu abweichenden Ergebnissen. Die Weste wird im Original doppelfädig gestrickt.

Marwah 02.05.2014 - 14:21:

This is gorgeous !! I wanna make it ! Some questions from you ..... Can you please explain how to do “knit over knit " and “purl over purl" ? And what is M1 and M2 ?

DROPS Design 02.05.2014 kl. 16:22:

Dear Marwah, K over K and P over P means to work sts as they appear, i.e. to knit all K sts and purl all P sts as stated (ex. in rib K5/P5). M.1 & M.2 are diagrams - see at the bottom of patterns - where 1 square = 1 st x 1 row. Read diagram from the right towards the left. Happy knitting!

Regina 29.02.2012 - 18:18:

Kui on kootud 2 cm, koo maha käeaugu jaoks mõlemal pool iga rea alguses: 4 s 1 kord, 3 s 0-0-0-0-1-1 kord, 2 s 0-1-3-5-5-7 korda ja 1 s 1-2-1-1-1-2 korda = 60-62-64-66-70-72 s. Jätka kuni töö on 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm . Sooviksin teada mida need numbrid seal tähendavad käeaugu kudumisel? Millal ja mismoodi peaks siis need silmad maha kuduma? Tänan

DROPS Design 06.03.2012 kl. 19:32:

Iga nr on vastavalt sobivale suurusele, st esimene number suurusele S, teine nr suurusele M jne. Näiteks kõige väiksemal suurusel kood esimesel real maha 4 s, siis jätad järgmised 2 vahele (kuna seal on 0) ja kood järgmisel real maha hoopis 1 s. Ning jätkad tööd, kuni see on 19 cm pikkune.

Nathalie Olivier 18.01.2012 - 23:09:

J'ai réalisé ce joli modèle, mais impossible à faire avec une broche circulaire de 80 cm. J'ai dû fermer l'ouvrage avec une paire de broches circulaires! Trop de mailles à la fin pour qu'elles puissent être contenues sur une seule!

Loretta 22.11.2011 - 06:41:

Nella spiegazione del modello, dite : Quando il lavoro misura 2 cm aumentare 4 m ad ogni lato per gli scalfi, non è AUMENTARE , ma diminuire. saluti

Flora 19.02.2011 - 18:34:

Vielen Dank für die Hilfe. Inzwischen ist der Groschen gefallen und ich hatte den AHA-Moment.

DROPS Design DE 19.02.2011 - 15:52:

Liebe Flora, wenn du die 2. Skizze anschaust, wird es vielleicht klarer. Du beginnst beim X hinten im Nacken und nimmst Maschen auf. Dann schlägst du über dem Armloch (gestrichelte Linie) neue Maschenn an, dann nimmst du aus den Randmaschen des kleinen Stücks (2 cm) 5 neue Maschen auf, nimmst wieder aus der Unterkante maschen auf etc etc bis du wieder beim X ankommst. Nun hast du die Runde mit 252-268-288-308-328-348 M. auf der Nadel. Lieber Gruss Ulrike

Flora 18.02.2011 - 18:38:

Kann mir jemand erklären wie das gemeint ist mit den Maschen anschlagen, innerhalb einer Randmasche (2cm vor Armloch) 5M aufnehmen, etc? Ich verstehe im Prinzip den gesamten ersten Absatz nicht, nachdem man zur Rundnadel 4,5 wechselt.

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