Autumn’s Gift by DROPS Design

Šátek s krajkovým vzorem pletený shora dolů z dvojité příze DROPS Kid-Silk.

Klíčová slova: krajkový vzor, šály, shora dolů
  • Autumn’s Gift / DROPS 226-20 - Šátek s krajkovým vzorem pletený shora dolů z dvojité příze DROPS Kid-Silk.
  • Autumn’s Gift / DROPS 226-20 - Šátek s krajkovým vzorem pletený shora dolů z dvojité příze DROPS Kid-Silk.
  • Autumn’s Gift / DROPS 226-20 - Šátek s krajkovým vzorem pletený shora dolů z dvojité příze DROPS Kid-Silk.
  • Autumn’s Gift / DROPS 226-20 - Šátek s krajkovým vzorem pletený shora dolů z dvojité příze DROPS Kid-Silk.
  • Autumn’s Gift / DROPS 226-20 - Šátek s krajkovým vzorem pletený shora dolů z dvojité příze DROPS Kid-Silk.
DROPS design: model č. ks-177
Skupina přízí A + A nebo C
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VELIKOST:
Délka – v cípu: asi 80 cm
Šířka – u horního okraje: asi 160 cm.

MATERIÁL:
DROPS KID-SILK firmy Garnstudio (spadá do skupiny přízí A)
125 g, barva č. 35, čokoláda

JEHLICE:
DROPS KRUHOVÁ JEHLICE č.5: délka 80 cm.

ZKUŠEBNÍ VZOREK:
17 ok na šířku a 22 řad na výšku lícovým žerzejem dvojitou přízí = 10 x 10 cm.
POZN.: Uvedená síla jehlic je pouze orientační. Máte-li ve svém zkušebním vzorku více ok na 10 cm, použijte jehlice silnější. Pokud máte naopak méně ok na 10 cm, použijte jehlice slabší.

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Zkušební vzorek – Podívejte se, jak ho měřit a proč
Náhradní příze – Podívejte se, jak změnit přízi
Skupina přízí A až F – Neměňte návod, změňte přízi
Spotřeba příze při použití náhradní příze – Využijte náš převodník

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75% mohér, 25% hedvábí
od 88.00 Kč /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 88.00 Kč /25g
Ganella
Objednat
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 88.00 Kč /25g
Ganella
Objednat
needles Jehlice a háčky Objednat
Přízi na tento model můžete mít už za 440Kč. Více zde.

Návod

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VYSVĚTLIVKY:

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VROUBKOVÝ VZOR:
Pleteme stále hladce, lícové i rubové řady.
1 vroubek = 2 řady hladce.

VZOR:
Viz schémata A.1 až A.7. Zobrazeny jsou všechny řady vzoru nahlížené z lícové strany.

TIP – UZAVÍRÁNÍ pružné:
Oka uzavíráme hladce z lícové strany, takto: 2 oka upleteme hladce, *levou jehlici vpíchneme zleva doprava do 2 ok na pravé jehlici a spleteme je hladce, 1 oko upleteme hladce*, *-* opakujeme až po poslední 1 oko na pravé jehlici.
Přízi odstřihneme, protáhneme posledním okem a stáhneme.
Při tomto způsobu uzavírání zůstane uzavřený okraj pružný.

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POPIS PRÁCE:

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ŠÁTEK – JAK BUDEME POSTUPOVAT:
Pleteme v řadách na kruhové jehlici – vejdou se na ni pohodlně všechna oka. Celý šátek pleteme 2 vlákny příze (= dvojitou přízí) DROPS Kid-Silk.

ŠÁTEK:
Na kruhovou jehlici č.5 nahodíme 2 vlákny příze DROPS Kid-Silk (= dvojitou přízí) 7 ok a pleteme vzor A.1. Po dokončení 1 celé sekvence vzoru (na výšku) máme v řadě 47 ok.
Nyní pleteme vzor podle schémat A.2 až A.7, středové oko ve schématu A.1 je středové oko šátku – toto oko pleteme po celou dobu lícovým žerzejem.
Postupujeme takto: 5 ok vzorem A.2, 12 ok vzorem A.3 (= 2 sekvence vzoru), 6 ok vzorem A.4, středové oko lícovým žerzejem jako dosud, 6 ok vzorem A.5, 12 ok vzorem A.6 (= 2 sekvence vzoru) a 5 ok vzorem A.7.
Po dokončení 1 celé sekvence vzorů (na výšku) máme přidaných 6 ok na každé straně středového oka = 59 ok.
Teď máme na každé straně středového oka o 1 celou sekvenci vzoru A.3/A.6 více.
Tj. při dalším pletení vzoru postupujeme takto: 5 ok vzorem A.2, 18 ok vzorem A.3 (= 3 sekvence vzoru), 6 ok vzorem A.4, středové oko lícovým žerzejem jako dosud, 6 ok vzorem A.5, 18 ok vzorem A.6 (= 3 sekvence vzoru) a 5 ok vzorem A.7.
Takto pokračujeme a přidáváme až do výše asi 79 cm – měřeno podél středového oka; končíme po dopletení 1 celé sekvence vzoru (na výšku).
Pak pleteme 2 vroubky VROUBKOVÝM VZOREM – viz výše – a SOUČASNĚ v každé lícové řadě přidáváme vedle 2 krajních ok a na každé straně středového oka jako dosud (přidáváme nahozením).
Pak všechna oka uzavřeme – viz TIP – UZAVÍRÁNÍ!

Schéma

symbols = lícový žerzej (líc hladce, rub obrace)
symbols = vroubkový vzor (líc i rub hladce)
symbols = 1 oko sejmeme hladce, 1 upleteme hladce a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme
symbols = 2 oka spleteme hladce
symbols = 1x nahodíme mezi 2 oky
symbols = 1 oko sejmeme hladce, 2 oka spleteme hladce a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme
diagram
diagram
signature-image signature

Potřebujete poradit s tímto návodem?

Děkujeme, že jste si vybrali návod DROPS Design. Zakládáme si na tom, že dáváme k dispozici návody ověřené a snadno srozumitelné. Všechny návody jsou přeložené z norského originálu a tak si můžete kdykoli srovnat rozměry a počty s původním návodem (DROPS 226-20) .

Máte s návodem potíže? Níže najdete seznam odkazů, které vám pomohou dokončit vaše dílo co nejdříve - nebo se třeba přiučit něco nového.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

nahoru

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Pořídili jste si přízi DROPS na tento model? Pak máte taky právo žádat po svém prodejci, u něhož jste nakoupili, pomoc a rady. Seznam DROPS obchodů najdete tady!
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Komentáře / Otázky (13)

country flag Irene wrote:

Buonasera,ho ormai quasi finito lo scialle,mi mancano le due coste a legaccio,ho un dubbio: devo aumentare solo 8 maglie più altri 8 gettati per la maglia centrale?

06.04.2022 - 23:03

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Irene, nelle 2 coste finali deve aumentare su ogni ferro dal diritto del lavoro facendo 1 gettato all'interno di 2 maglie a ogni lato e 1 gettato a ogni lato della maglia centrale. Buon lavoro!

07.04.2022 kl. 20:03

country flag Jette wrote:

Hej Når man har været diagrammet igennem 1 gang, starter man så forfra med A1 eller går man direkte i gange med A2?

16.02.2022 - 23:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Jette, ja når du har strikket A.1 har du 47 masker på pinden og går nu videre til A.2 til A.7 som beskrevet. "Strik således: A.2 over 5 masker osv... "

17.02.2022 kl. 15:35

country flag Inger wrote:

Hei, Det står i oppskriften at det skal «strikkes videre etter diagram A.2 til A.7». Disse diagrammene er ikke her. Hvor kan jeg finne dem?

16.01.2022 - 20:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Inger, Du finner diagrammene på bunnen av oppskriften. God fornøyelse!

17.01.2022 kl. 07:06

country flag Marta wrote:

Sigo el patrón y no me sale el mismo dibujo de calados. He acabado el esquema A1, tengo los 47 puntos al final y el dibujo de agujeros no es parecido. ¿Está bien el esquema? Gracias

22.12.2021 - 11:49

country flag BRUNETTA VISMARA wrote:

Progetto molto facile ma di grande effetto, spiegato molto chiaramente.

25.11.2021 - 06:43

country flag Robi wrote:

Buonasera Rossella,spero di riuscire a spiegare il procedimento, intanto metti dei marcapunti dopo i vari A2-A3 A4 e tra la maglia centrale e naturalmente tra A5-A6-A7.Dopo ogni 6 ferri di ciascuna sezione ti ritroverai delle maglie in più, esattamente 3 in A2 e A4 e in A5 e A7,queste maglie in più devi lavorarle in A3 e A6.Facendo così il lavoro inizierà ad ingrandirsi.

20.11.2021 - 22:52

country flag Rossella wrote:

Lavorare come segue: A.2 su 5 maglie, A.3 su 12 maglie (= 2 volte in larghezza), A.4 su 6 maglie, lavorare la maglia centrale a maglia rasata come prima, A.5 su 6 maglie, A.6 su 12 maglie (= 2 volte in larghezza), e A.7 su 5 maglie.....QUANDO DEVO SEGUIRE QUESTE INDICAZIONE, A CHE GIRO DI FERRO,

16.11.2021 - 14:29

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Rossella, dopo aver lavorato 1 volta il diagramma A.1 in altezza, prosegue come indicato. Buon lavoro!

16.11.2021 kl. 22:04

country flag Rossella wrote:

Buongiorno, essendo principiante, non ho capito come fare per far aumentare le dimensioni, ho lavorato seguendo il diagramma, è venuto una miniatura. devo raddoppiare o triplicare i singoli giri del diagramma? grazie per l'aiuto

06.11.2021 - 12:42

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Rossella, deve lavorare seguendo le indicazioni riportate: se ci spiega meglio i passaggi che ha fatto possiamo aiutarla in modo più preciso. Buon lavoro!

06.11.2021 kl. 17:23

country flag Rossella wrote:

Salve, sono una principiante e vorrei cimentarmi in questo lavoro, ma so usare solo i ferri classici cioè no quelli circolari, come cambiano il numero delle maglie? grazie

27.10.2021 - 15:52

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Rossella, questo modello è lavorato in piano, può usare i ferri dritti. Buon lavoro!

29.10.2021 kl. 21:15

country flag Nf wrote:

BITTE wo sind die Diagramme zu finden ?

18.10.2021 - 19:05

DROPS Design answered:

Sie finden die Diagramme am Ende der schriftlichen Anleitung. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

25.10.2021 kl. 20:08

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