DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% bavlna
od 0.90 € /50g
Přízi na tento model můžete mít už za 9.00€.

Cenu za klubka počítáme podle spotřeby při výrobě modelu v nejmenší velikosti a nejlevnější variantě příze. Rádi byste ještě lepší cenu? Třeba ji najdete mezi DROPS Deals!

DROPS 220-25
DROPS design: model č. w-830
Skupina přízí C nebo A + A
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ROZMĚRY:
Šířka: asi 43 cm
Výška: asi 33 cm

MATERIÁL:
DROPS PARIS firmy Garnstudio (spadá do skupiny přízí C)
300 g, barva č. 17, smetanová
200 g, barva č. 24, šedá

Na jednobarevnou tašku je potřeba 500 g příze Paris.

ZKUŠEBNÍ VZOREK:
13 dlouhých sloupků na šířku a 6 řad na výšku dvojitou přízí = 10 x 10 cm.

HÁČEK:
DROPS HÁČEK č.5
Uvedená síla háčku je pouze orientační. Máte-li ve svém zkušebním vzorku více ok na 10 cm, použijte háček silnější. Pokud máte naopak méně ok na 10 cm, použijte háček slabší.

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Náhradní příze – Podívejte se, jak změnit přízi
Skupina přízí A až F – Neměňte návod, změňte přízi
Spotřeba příze při použití náhradní příze – Využijte náš převodník

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% bavlna
od 0.90 € /50g
Přízi na tento model můžete mít už za 9.00€.

Cenu za klubka počítáme podle spotřeby při výrobě modelu v nejmenší velikosti a nejlevnější variantě příze. Rádi byste ještě lepší cenu? Třeba ji najdete mezi DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Platí do 12.04.2024

Návod

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VYSVĚTLIVKY:

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VZOR:
Viz schémata A.1 a A.2. Schémata zobrazují barevné rozložení vzoru. 1 čtvereček = 1 dlouhý sloupek.

TIP – DVOJITÁ PŘÍZE:
Přízi můžeme odvíjet současně z povrchu i zevnitř klubíčka.

INFO:
První dlouhý sloupek v kruhové řadě nahrazujeme 3 řetízkovými oky; kruhovou řadu končíme 1 pevným okem do 3. řetízkového oka.

TIP - UJÍMÁNÍ:
Každý 14. a 15. dlouhý sloupek v kruhové řadě sháčkujeme dohromady, takto:
háčkujeme 1 dlouhý sloupek, ale nedokončíme jej – před posledním protažením příze (= 2 smyčky na háčku) uháčkujeme stejným způsobem následující dlouhý sloupek a při jeho dokončování protáhneme přízi všemi 3 smyčkami na háčku = ujmuli jsme 1 dlouhý sloupek.

RAČÍ SLOUPEK:
Háčkujeme krátký sloupek, ale „pozpátku“, tj. vpichujeme zleva doprava.

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POPIS PRÁCE:

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TAŠKA – JAK BUDEME POSTUPOVAT:
Háčkujeme v kruhových řadách ode dna k hornímu okraji dvojitou přízí – viz TIP DVOJITÁ PŘÍZE.

TAŠKA:
Háčkem č.5 uháčkujeme 2 vlákny smetanové příze (= dvojitou přízí) 5 řetízkových ok a spojíme je pevným okem do kroužku.
Dál háčkujeme v kruhových řadách vzor A.1 (= v kruhové řadě máme 12 sekvencí vzoru).

1. KRUHOVÁ ŘADA: do kroužku z řetízkových ok uháčkujeme 12 dlouhých sloupků – viz INFO.
2. KRUHOVÁ ŘADA: po 2 dlouhých sloupcích do každého dlouhého sloupku = 24 dlouhých sloupků.
3. KRUHOVÁ ŘADA: *1 dlouhý sloupek do 1. dlouhého sloupku, 2 dlouhé sloupky do následujícího dlouhého sloupku*, *-* opakujeme v průběhu celé kruhové řady = 36 dlouhých sloupků.
4. KRUHOVÁ ŘADA: *po 1 dlouhém sloupku do každého z prvních 2 dlouhých sloupků, 2 dlouhé sloupky do následujícího dlouhého sloupku*, *-* opakujeme v průběhu celé kruhové řady = 48 dlouhých sloupků.
5.-10. KRUHOVÁ ŘADA: pokračujeme v háčkování vzoru a přidáváme jako dosud, tj. v každé kruhové řadě uháčkujeme mezi dvěma přidáními vždy o 1 dlouhý sloupek více = 120 dlouhých sloupků.
11. KRUHOVÁ ŘADA: háčkujeme poslední kruhovou řadu vzoru A.1 a SOUČASNĚ ujmeme rovnoměrně 8 dlouhých sloupků – viz TIP - UJÍMÁNÍ = 112 dlouhých sloupků.
12. KRUHOVÁ ŘADA: dál háčkujeme po 1 dlouhém sloupku do každého oka, postupujeme dle schématu A.2 (= v kruhové řadě máme 7 sekvencí vzoru).

Po dokončení celé sekvence vzoru A.2 (na výšku) uháčkujeme 1 kruhovou řadu dvojitou šedou přízí RAČÍMI SLOUPKY – viz výše. Přízi odstřihneme a zapošijeme.

UCHO:
Ustřihneme si 18 vláken příze od každé barvy, každé o délce 120 cm = 36 vláken. Vlákna složíme k sobě a cca 12 cm od konce uvážeme volný uzel. Pak vlákna rozdělíme do 3 pramenů po 12 – jeden smetanový, jeden šedý a jeden smíšený – a spleteme z nich cop dlouhý asi 68 cm. Konec copu rozdělíme na poloviny, které protáhneme stěnou tašky ve třetí kruhové řadě pod horním lemem, 1 dlouhý sloupek od sebe. Konce copu pak na lícové straně svážeme na pevný uzel. Volný uzel na začátku copu nyní rozvážeme a konec ucha připevníme k protilehlé straně tašky stejným způsobem.
Stejným způsobem vyrobíme druhé ucho – viz foto.

Schéma

symbols = 2 vlákna smetanové
symbols = 2 vlákna šedé
symbols = 1 vlákno smetanové a 1 vlákno šedé
diagram
Chcete se na něco zeptat? Projděte si seznam nejčastějších otázek (FAQ).

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Přidejte komentář k návodu DROPS 220-25

Rádi bychom věděli, co si o tomto modelu myslíte!

Pokud se chcete na něco zeptat, dbejte prosím na to, abyste ve formuláři níže vybrali správnou kategorii - díky tomu se dříve dozvíte, co potřebujete vědět. Povinná pole jsou označena *.

Komentáře / Otázky (16)

country flag Bine-Nes wrote:

Nadelstärke für diese Wolle (Baumwolle - Paris) ist 5 mm. Es wird mit doppeltem Faden gehäkelt, die Nadlestärke bleibt bei 5 mm, wie soll das funktionieren?

24.02.2023 - 17:47

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Nes, man braucht hier eine feste Textur, deshalb wird man mit einer kleineren Häkelnadel, aber beachten Sie, daß die Maschenprobe mehr wichtig als die Hakelgröße ist, dh 13 Stäbchen in der Breite und 6 Reihen in der Höhe mit 2 Fäden = 10 x 10 cm. Hier lesen Sie mehr. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

27.02.2023 - 09:10

country flag Carmen Arteaga wrote:

Hola cuanto debe medir el circulo del fondo?, cuando terminan los aumentos , cual es la medida? muchas gracias por sus lindos patrones

08.08.2022 - 20:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Carmen, en este caso no damos el diámetro del bolso porque tienes que trabajar el dibujo completo. Si después de trabajar el círculo, debido a la tensión utilizada, te parece que queda demasiado pequeño para la base del bolso, puedes trabajar un par de vueltas más usando solo el hilo gris. En principio, el ancho total debería ser 43 cm.

14.08.2022 - 21:54

country flag Isa wrote:

Mille mercis pour votre réponse !!! Très bonne journée

31.05.2021 - 17:38

country flag Isa wrote:

Bonjour, je suis en train de crocheter ce sac et je suis bloquée aux tours 5 à 10. Je ne comprends pas combien de brides et d'augmentations je dois crocheter. Pouvez-vous m'aider svp ? Merci d'avance pour votre réponse.

31.05.2021 - 10:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Isa, vous devez continuer à augmenter 12 b rides à chaque tour, comme avant, mais avec toujours 1 bride en plus entre chaque augmentation, autrement dit, au tour 5, crochetez: *1 bride dans les 3 premières brides, 2 brides dans la suivante*, au tour 6: *1 bride dans les 4 premières brides, 2 brides dans la suivante*, et ainsi de suite, jusqu'au tour 10 (= 1 bride dans les 8 premières brides,2 dans la suivante = 120 brides). Bon crochet!

31.05.2021 - 15:41

country flag Rose wrote:

J’adore ce modèle j’ai hâte de pouvoir le faire 😍😍

23.04.2021 - 00:32

country flag Beata wrote:

Simple and beautiful.

05.04.2021 - 08:48

country flag Laila wrote:

Upea kuvitus

19.01.2021 - 23:33

country flag Melody Johnson wrote:

Summer Vacation

11.01.2021 - 19:38

country flag Ida wrote:

Summer and sand

10.01.2021 - 09:31

country flag Ida wrote:

Summer and sand

10.01.2021 - 09:31