The Big Chill by DROPS Design

Souprava: čepice a šála pro děti pletené z příze DROPS Air. Velikost 2 - 12 let.

DROPS Design: model č. ai-011-bn
Skupina přízí C nebo A + A
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Na celou soupravu je spotřeba asi 100-100-150-150 g DROPS Air.
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ČEPICE:
Velikost: 2 - 3/4 - 5/8 - 9/12 let
Obvod hlavy: asi 48/50 - 50/52 - 52/54 - 54/56 cm
Materiál:
DROPS AIR firmy Garnstudio (spadá do skupiny přízí C)
50-50-50-100 g, barva č. 10, mlha

Použitou přízi můžete také nahradit některou ze seznamu:
"Náhradní příze (Skupina přízí C)" – viz link níže.

DROPS PONOŽKOVÉ JEHLICE a krátká KRUHOVÁ JEHLICE (40 cm) č. 4 – nebo velikosti potřebné k upletení zkušebního vzorku o rozměrech 18 ok a 23 řad lícovým žerzejem = 10 cm na šířku a 10 cm na výšku.

DROPS POMOCNÁ JEHLICE COPÁNKOVÁ – na pletení copánků.
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ŠÁLA:
Velikost: 3/5 - 6/9 - 10/12 let
Rozměry: Šířka: asi 13-15-17 cm. Délka: asi 120-135-150 cm.
Materiál:
DROPS AIR firmy Garnstudio (spadá do skupiny přízí C)
50-100-100 g, barva č. 10, mlha

Použitou přízi můžete také nahradit některou ze seznamu:
"Náhradní příze (Skupina přízí C)" – viz link níže.

DROPS JEHLICE č. 5 – nebo velikosti potřebné k upletení zkušebního vzorku o rozměrech 17 ok a 33 řad vroubkovým vzorem = 10 cm na šířku a 10 cm na výšku.
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Vyrobili jste si tento nebo nějaký jiný z našich modelů? Přidejte ke svým fotkám na sociálních sítích tag #dropsdesign - díky tomu je uvidíme i my!

Chcete použít jinou přízi? Zkuste náš převodník!

65% alpaka, 28% polyamid, 7% vlna
od 103.00 Kč /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 103.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 103.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
Jehlice a háčky
Přízi na tento model můžete mít už za 206Kč. Více zde.

Návod

VROUBKOVÝ VZOR:
1 vroubek = 2 řady hladce. Pleteme stále hladce, lícové i rubové řady.

VZOR (čepice):
Viz schémata A.1 a A.2.

TIP - UJÍMÁNÍ (čepice):
2 oka spleteme hladce.
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ČEPICE:
Pleteme v kruhových řadách na kruhové jehlici, podle potřeby převedeme pleteninu na ponožkové jehlice.
Na kruhovou jehlici č.4 nahodíme přízí Air 84-88-90-96 ok a upleteme 1 kruhovou řadu lícovým žerzejem. Pak pleteme pružným vzorem 1/1 (tj. střídáme 1 oko hladce, 1 obrace). Ve výši 4 cm pokračujeme takto: vzor A.1 (= 17 ok - po přidávání 22 ok), zbylá oka pleteme pružným vzorem jako dosud = na jehlici máme 89-93-95-101 ok. Po dokončení vzoru A.1 pleteme: prvních 22 ok vzorem A.2, následujících 67-71-73-79 ok lícovým žerzejem a SOUČASNĚ upravíme v 1. kruhové řadě tento počet ok na výsledných 65-72-77-80 ok = 87-94-99-102 ok. Ve výši 15-16-17-18 cm vložíme do pleteniny 5-6-7-8 značek, takto: první značkou označíme 23. oko v kruhové řadě, každou další značku pak umístíme vždy po 12-11-10-9 okách. V následující kruhové řadě ujmeme za každou značkou 1 oko – viz TIP - UJÍMÁNÍ (= ujmeme 5-6-7-8 ok). Takto ujímáme v každé 2. kruhové řadě, celkem 3x, poté ujmeme v každé kruhové řadě, celkem 3x. SOUČASNĚ ve výši 15-16-17-18 a 18-19-20-21 cm spleteme obrace vnější 2 oka na každé straně vzoru A.2 = 53-54-53-50 ok. *Upleteme 1 kruhovou řadu hladce, v následující kruhové řadě spleteme každá 2 oka hladce* = na jehlici máme 27-27-27-25 ok. *-* ještě 1x zopakujeme = na jehlici zbývá 14-14-14-13 ok. V následující kruhové řadě spleteme každá 2 oka hladce = zbývá 7 ok – platí pro všechny velikosti. Přízi odstřihneme, protáhneme zbylými oky, stáhneme a zapošijeme.
Čepice měří asi 20-21-22-23 cm.

BAMBULE:
Vyrobíme si bambuli o průměru asi 4-6 cm a přišijeme ji na vrcholek čepice.
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ŠÁLA:
Pleteme v řadách.
Na jehlice č.5 nahodíme přízí Air 22-26-30 ok a pleteme VROUBKOVÝM VZOREM – viz výše – až do výše asi 120-135-150 cm, ppř. do jiné libovolné výšky. Pak všechna oka uzavřeme a konce přízí zapošijeme.


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Pulovr:
Viz DROPS Children 30-13 nebo "Příbuzné modely" mezi návody online.
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Schéma

= lícový žerzej (líc hladce, rub obrace)
= rubový žerzej (líc obrace, rub hladce)
= 6 ok odložíme na pomocnou jehlici ZA práci, upleteme 6 ok, pak 6 ok z pom.jehlice
= 1x nahodíme mezi 2 oky

Potřebujete poradit s tímto návodem?

Děkujeme, že jste si vybrali návod DROPS Design. Zakládáme si na tom, že dáváme k dispozici návody ověřené a snadno srozumitelné. Všechny návody jsou přeložené z norského originálu a tak si můžete kdykoli srovnat rozměry a počty s původním návodem (DROPS Children 30-17) .

Máte s návodem potíže? Níže najdete seznam odkazů, které vám pomohou dokončit vaše dílo co nejdříve - nebo se třeba přiučit něco nového.

Máme takopodrobné rozpisy různých technik a postupů krok za krokem - najdete je zde.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Pořídili jste si přízi DROPS na tento model? Pak máte taky právo žádat po svém prodejci, u něhož jste nakoupili, pomoc a rady. Seznam DROPS obchodů najdete tady!
Pořád se nemůžete dobrat odpovědi, kterou hledáte? Pak posuňte stránku dolů a napište nám svůj dotaz, naši specialisté se vám pokusí poradit. Obvykle to zvládneme během 5 až 10 pracovních dnů.. Mezitím si můžete pročíst otázky a odpovědi, které k tomuto modelu položili ostatní, nebo navštívit skupinu DROPS Workshop na Facebooku, kde vám může poradit některá spřízněná duše!

Komentáře / Otázky (7)

Laura 18.10.2019 - 11:49:

Buon giorno sto lavorando il cappello TG 9/12. Ho un dubbio, dopo aver lavorato il diagramma A2 sulle prime 22 maglie, devo aumentare solo una maglia trovandomi così con un totale di 102 maglie giusto?

DROPS Design 18.10.2019 kl. 12:22:

Buongiorno Laura. Sì esatto. Sul primo giro del diagramma A.2 , aumenta 1 m nelle maglie lavorate a maglia rasata, così da avere in tutto 102 maglie. Buon lavoro!

Wenche Løseth 27.02.2019 - 08:56:

Tenkte å strikke et skjerf til en 5 åring. Jeg vil bruke Merinoull og strikke 2 rette og 2 vrange for at det skal bli "boblemønster". Lurer på hvor mange masker jeg må legge opp og hvor bred skjerfet skal være til en 5 åring? P.s. jeg er uvant med å strikke i det store og hele. Håper på et positivt svar. Mvh Wenche Løseth

DROPS Design 28.02.2019 kl. 15:31:

Hei Wenche. Det er velding individuelt hvor bredt skjerf man vil ha, men kanskje 10-15 cm? Det er strikkefastheten din som avgjør hvor mange masker du trenger for å få en angitt bredde. Hvis du har en strikkefasthet på feks 18 masker = 10 cm kan du gange ønsket bredde med 1,8 for å finne ut maskeantallet du trenger - feks: 15x1,8 = 27 masker. Når du sier 2 rett og 2 vrang "boblemønster", tenker du da på perlestrikk? slik som i oppskrift 104-19 bare med 2 masker rett/vrang. Sørg for at maskeantallet er delelig med 4 slik at mønsteret går opp. God fornøyelse

Monica 20.11.2018 - 10:25:

Nela creazione del berretto si legge: nel corso del primo giro, portare il numero di queste maglie a 65-72-77-80 = 87-94-99-102 maglie. Vorrei fare una taglia 3/4 anni, devo portare le maglie a 72 o 94? Grazie.

DROPS Design 20.11.2018 kl. 11:29:

Buongiorno Monica. Per la taglia 3/4 anni, mentre lavora le 71 maglie a maglia rasata, aumenta 1 maglia. Diventano quindi 72 maglie a maglia rasata che, aggiunte alle 22 maglie del diagramma A.1, fanno in tutto 94 maglie sui ferri. Buon lavoro!

Kamilla 29.10.2018 - 09:43:

Strikker største størrelse. Får ikke fellingen til å stemme.

DROPS Design 29.10.2018 kl. 13:19:

Hei Kamilla. Du setter 8 merker slik: 1 merke i den 23. masken, og videre i hver 10.maske. Det er nå 9 masker mellom hver maske med merke. På neste omgangen feller du 1 maske etter hvert av merkene = 8 masker felt på omgangen. Gjenta fellingen annenhver omgang 2 ganger til slik at du har felt totalt 3 ganger = 78 masker på pinnen. Fell på samme måte, hver omgang, totalt 3 ganger = 54 masker på pinnen. Samtidig når arbeidet måler 18 cm strikker du de 2 ytterste maskene i hver side av A.2 vrang sammen (= 2 masker felt), gjenta når arbeider måler 21 cm (=totalt 4 masker felt i A.2) Du har nå 50 masker på pinnen. God fornøyelse.

Agnes 03.12.2017 - 19:15:

Co oznacza "w tym samym czasie w 1-szym okrążeniu dopasowując liczbę oczek do 65-72-77-80 = 87-94-99-102 oczka"? Przerobiłam schemat A1 i otrzymałam 95 oczek (5-8 lat). Następnie 1 rząd schematu A2. Zostały mi 73 oczka. Co dalej?

DROPS Design 03.12.2017 kl. 22:39:

Witam, po wykonaniu schematu A.1 jest dokładnie 85 oczek w rozmiarze 5-8 lat. Teraz przerabiamy kolejne okrążenie, na które składa się: schemat A.2 (tylko ponad schematem A.1 czyli 22 oczkami) i dalsza część dżersejem ponad 73 o. (i ponad tą częścią dżersejem trzeba dodać 4 o. = 77 o.). Łącznie w okrążeniu będzie 99 o. POWODZENIA!

Larissa 19.09.2017 - 09:28:

Ihr Lieben, sehe nur ich die Strickschrift für den Zopf auf der Mütze nicht oder fehlt das Diagramm noch?

DROPS Design 19.09.2017 kl. 13:19:

Liebe Larissa, Diagram fehlt in der deutschen Anleitung, aber wird so bald wie möglich hochgeladen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Kaisa Kopakkala 18.09.2017 - 18:35:

Ruutupiirros ei jostain syystä näy. Voisiko saada näkyviin?

DROPS Design 19.09.2017 kl. 16:34:

Nyt piirroksen tulisi näkyä.

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