DROPS / 159 / 17

Late in August by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS poncho in garter st with Indian cross stitches in 1 thread Cloud or 2 threads Air. Size: S - XXXL.

Tags: lace, ponchos,
DROPS design: Pattern no co-010
Yarn group E or C + C
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Size: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS CLOUD from Garnstudio
200 g for all sizes in colour no 01, off white

Or use:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio
250 g for all sizes in colour no 01, off white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 9 mm - or size needed to get 10 sts x 21 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
DROPS Cloud DROPS Cloud
72% Alpaca, 21% Polyamide, 7% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. First row is from WS.
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PONCHO:
Worked back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the YOs in diagram A.1. Cast on 42-48-54 sts on circular needle size 9 mm with 1 thread Cloud or 2 threads Air. Work A.1 (= 6 sts) over all sts (= 7-8-9 repetitions in width). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION Repeat A.1 until piece measures 112-128-144 cm. NOTE: Adjust to finish after 2 rows K. Cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Place one long side against one short side and sew tog in the ridges (opposite long side now forms a tip mid front).

FRINGE:
Insert fringes every 5 and 6 cm at the bottom along cast-on edge and 2 fringes in each section in garter st. 1 FRINGE = Cut 2 lengths cloud or 4 lengths Air of 36 cm each. Fold them double and pull loop through cast on edge. Then pull yarn ends through the loop.

Diagram

= K from WS
= K from RS
= K 1, 6 YO * K 1, 4 YO *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, K 1, 6 YO, K 1
= drop the working yarn behind piece - slip the next 6 sts and drop the YOs off = 6 long sts on right needle. Slip these 6 sts back on left needle as follows: Insert left needle through the 3 innermost sts and pass them over the 3 outermost sts - then slip the 3 outermost sts on left needle but make sure that sts are placed nicely in a cross - K sts but make sure that the yarn is long enough at first st on needle.
= knitting direction
= seam

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 159-17) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (21)

Elena 18.06.2019 - 18:01:

No entiendo cómo hacen para que el diseño del punto no cambie el sentido cuando lo unen. Si se teje un rectángulo y se une como indica el patrón, en la unión el punto del tejido quedaría en diferentes sentidos. Me lo pueden explicar?

DROPS Design 20.06.2019 kl. 23:16:

Hola Elena. Al unir el pocho el dibujo sí cambia de sentido. En este modelo es imposible hacerlo de otro modo. En la foto también se ve la unión y las dos partes del poncho, que quedan en sentidos diferentes.

Jayne 31.05.2018 - 18:03:

I made this pattern in Cloud yarn and it came out really well. I am sad that Cloud has now been discontinued.

Jayne 31.05.2018 - 17:58:

I made this poncho in Cloud yarn and it came out really well. I am so disappointed Cloud had been discontinued.

Heather Halom 20.04.2017 - 16:00:

I in Bulgaria, can I order your wool as I do not see it listed. Thanks

DROPS Design 20.04.2017 kl. 16:21:

Dear Mrs Halom, you will find here a list of DROPS stores shipping worldwide. Happy knitting!

Nathalie 08.11.2015 - 15:15:

Bonjour, Merci pour vos explications, j'ai fini le poncho et il est superbe.

Nathalie 03.11.2015 - 10:27:

Merci de votre réponse mais il me semble que dans l'explication il est dit de monter 48 mailles et non 48 cm. (Monter 42-48-54 m ). C'est la raison pour laquelle je ne comprend pas. Merci de votre patience.

DROPS Design 03.11.2015 kl. 11:49:

Bonjour Nathalie, tout à fait, mais si votre échantillon est exact (10 m = 10 cm), vous devez avoir 48 cm dans la 2ème taille, donc vous avez une longue bande de 48 m (= 48 cm de large) sur 112 cm de haut (long) qui va être pliée comme pour former une boucle, en assemblant les mailles rabattues le long du côté droit de cette même bande (à partir du rang de montage sur 48 cm de large correspondant à la bande). Bon assemblage!

Nathalie 02.11.2015 - 20:17:

Bonsoir, Je ne comprends pas comment faire pour coudre le poncho, j'ai tricoté un seul morceaux de 48 mailles sur 112 cm, mais ne comprends pas l'assemblage. Dois-je faire un 2ème morceaux de même dimension

DROPS Design 03.11.2015 kl. 09:31:

Bonjour Nathalie, le poncho consiste en un long rectangle de 48 x 112 cm que l'on plie ensuite pour former le poncho: placez le dernier rang (mailles rabattues) contre le côté droit, en bas de l'ouvrage (voir flèche dans le diagramme - sens du tricot) et faites la couture au niveau des pointillés. Dans le dos, vous aurez une large bande de 48 cm "droite". Bon tricot!

Ann-Charlotte 02.10.2015 - 19:57:

Hej igen! Jag har sett videon och förstår , inget konstigt där. Men ska man följa mänstret för sjalen får jag inte det att stämma.I början på xstår det X=1rm,6 omslag om st ......Fattas det inte en rät kantmaska,ska det inte stå x=1rm, 1 rm 6 omslag runt st....?

DROPS Design 03.11.2015 kl. 15:37:

Hej Ann-Charlotte, Nu har du en ny video som visar samma teknik som i mönstret:

DROPS Knitting Tutorial: How to work chart A.1 in DROPS 159-17 from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

Annett 30.07.2015 - 10:07:

Ich habe diesen wunderschönen Poncho angefangen, verstehe aber die Fertigstellung nicht: Stricke ich jetzt 1 oder 2 Teile wie auf dem Video oben? Und wenn es nur 1 Teil ist, brauche ich bitte eine ausführliche Erklärung für die Fertigstellung. Vielen Dank schon mal für die Antwort!

DROPS Design 01.08.2015 kl. 09:41:

Sie stricken nur ein Teil. Sie haben am Ende ein langes Rechteck. Wenn Sie nun die eine Kurzseite nehmen und an eine Längsseite legen, d.h. bündig ans Ende der Längsseite, ergibt sich die Form des Ponchos. Die gestrichelte Linie in der Maßskizze zeigt, wie die Kurseite an die Längsseite "stößt".

Marijke Wauman 08.06.2015 - 15:16:

Bedankt voor je snelle reactie. Maar dan begrijp ik de tekening toch niet. Klopt het dan ook dat er een overlapping is, want dan moet ik mijn stuk iets langer maken.

DROPS Design 10.06.2015 kl. 15:41:

Hoi Marijke. Er is geen overlap. Je naait de ene korte kant tegen de lange kant (zoals op de maattekening). Zie ook de video hier (Je hebt dan maar 1 lange strook, maar het principe is hetzelfde) Als dit niet lukt, dan is het misschien een goed idee dat je het werk meeneemt naar je DROPS winkel (als mogelijk), zij kunnen je dan laten zien hoe het lapje gemonteerd worden naar een poncho.

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