DROPS / 126 / 4

Ring of Roses Socks by DROPS Design

DROPS ponožky s květinovým vzorem z přízí "Delight" a "Fabel".

Tagy: kytička, ponožky,
Velikost: 35/37-38/40-41/43
Délka chodidla: asi 22-24-27 cm
Výška ponožky: asi 24-25-25 cm

Materiál: DROPS FABEL firmy Garnstudio
50 g pro všechny velikosti, barva č.400, černá
a DROPS DELIGHT firmy Garnstudio
50 g pro všechny velikosti, barva č.06, růžovo-fialový mix

DROPS SADA PONOŽKOVÝCH JEHLIC č.3 – nebo velikosti potřebné k upletení zkušebního vzorku o rozměrech 24 ok x 32 řad lícovým žerzejem = 10 x 10 cm.

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Chcete použít jinou přízi? Zkuste náš převodník!
Nejste si jistí, kterou zvolit velikost? Třeba by vám pomohla informace, že modelka na obrázku je vysoká asi 170 cm a nosí velikost S nebo M. Pokud chcete plést/háčkovat pulovr, kabátek, šaty nebo podobný kousek, najdete dole pod návodem nákres s jednotlivými mírami v cm.

75% vlna, 25% polyamid
od 90.00 Kč /50g
DROPS Delight print DROPS Delight print 90.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat

75% vlna, 25% polyamid
od 70.00 Kč /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 70.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 75.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 81.00 Kč /50g
Ganella
Objednat
Jehlice a háčky
Přízi na tento model můžete mít už za 160Kč. Více zde.

Návod

VZOR:
Viz schémata M.1 až M.6; vzor je nahlížen z lícové strany a celý jej pleteme lícovým žerzejem.

TVAROVÁNÍ PATY:
1. řada (= lícová): pleteme po posledních 9 ok v řadě, 1 oko sejmeme hladce, 1 upleteme hladce a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme, otočíme práci.
2.ř. (= rubová): pleteme po posledních 9 ok v řadě, 1 oko sejmeme obrace, 1 upleteme obrace a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme, otočíme práci.
3.ř. (= lícová): pleteme po posledních 8 ok v řadě, 1 oko sejmeme hladce, 1 upleteme hladce a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme, otočíme práci.
4.ř. (= rubová): pleteme po posledních 8 ok v řadě, 1 oko sejmeme obrace, 1 upleteme obrace a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme, otočíme práci.
Tímto způsobem pokračujeme v ujímání (vždy o 1 oko snížíme počet ok zbylých v řadě) dokud nám v řadě nezůstane 15-15-15 ok.
----------------------------------------------------------------------

PONOŽKY:

Pleteme v kruhových řadách na ponožkových jehlicích. Na ponožkové jehlice č.3 nahodíme přízí Fabel 66-72-72 ok a upleteme 1 kruhovou řadu hladce. Pak pleteme 4 kruhové řady žebrovým vzorem 1/1 (1 oko hladce, 1 obrace). Pokračujeme vzorem M.1 (= 12 ok) nad všemi oky. Po dokončení celé sekvence vzoru M.1 (na výšku) pleteme vzorem M.2, SOUČASNĚ upravíme v 1. kruhové řadě vzoru M.2 počet ok na 65-78-78. Po dokončení celé sekvence vzoru M.2 pleteme vzorem M.3 a SOUČASNĚ upravíme v 1. kruhové řadě vzoru M.3 počet ok na 64-72-72. Po dokončení celé sekvence vzoru M.3 upleteme 1 kruhovou řadu přízí Delight nad všemi oky.
Pokračujeme takto: vzor M.4A (= 3 oka), M.4B (= 23-31-31 ok), M.4C (= 3 oka), M.5 (= 35 ok).
POZOR! V 8. a 16. kruhové řadě ujmeme po obou stranách vzoru M.5 1 oko – jak je znázorněno ve schématu = 60-68-68 ok.
Po dokončení 1 celé sekvence vzoru M.5 (na výšku) odložíme 29-37-37 ok (= oka vzoru M.4A, B a C) na pomocnou jehlici = 31 ok ponecháme na jehlici (= pata). Nad těmito oky (= pata) upleteme 5-5,5-6 cm výšky vzorem M.6, vložíme značku a pleteme TVAROVÁNÍ PATY. Po jeho dokončení nabereme po obou stranách paty 12-13-14 ok a odložených 29-37-37 ok z pomocné jehlice vrátíme zpět na jehlici = 68-78-80 ok. Nad 29-37-37 oky svrchní, nártové části ponožky pleteme vzorem M.4 jako dosud, nad oky šlapky pleteme vzorem M.6. SOUČASNĚ ujímáme na obou stranách vzoru M.4 (oka nártové části): před vzorem M.4A spleteme 2 oka hladce a za vzorem M.4C spleteme 2 oka hladce anglicky; ujímání opakujeme v každé 2. kruhové řadě celkem 6x = 56-66-68 ok.
Pokračujeme vzorem M.4 a M.6 do výše 17-18-21 cm od značky na patě (= zbývá asi 5-6-6 cm). Pokračujeme takto: vzor M.4A, M.6 nad následujícími 23-31-31 oky, M.4C, M.6 nad následujícími 27-29-31 oky. SOUČASNĚ tvarujeme špičku – ujímáme po obou stranách vzoru M.4A/C, takto: před vzorem M.4A/C spleteme poslední 2 oka hladce, za vzorem M.4A/C 1 oko sejmeme hladce, 1 upleteme hladce a sejmuté přes ně přetáhneme. Ujímání opakujeme v každé 2. kruhové řadě, celkem 6-9-9x, pak ještě v každé kruhové řadě, celkem 4-1-1x = 16-26-28 ok. V průběhu následující kruhové řady splétáme vždy 2 oka hladce = 8-13-14 ok.
Přízi odstřihneme, protáhneme zbylými oky, utáhneme a zapošijeme.

Schéma

= Delight
= Fabel
= 2 oka spleteme hladce


Potřebujete poradit s tímto návodem?

Děkujeme, že jste si vybrali návod DROPS Design. Zakládáme si na tom, že dáváme k dispozici návody ověřené a snadno srozumitelné. Všechny návody jsou přeložené z norského originálu a tak si můžete kdykoli srovnat rozměry a počty s původním návodem (DROPS 126-4) .

Máte s návodem potíže? Níže najdete seznam odkazů, které vám pomohou dokončit vaše dílo co nejdříve - nebo se třeba přiučit něco nového.

Máme takopodrobné rozpisy různých technik a postupů krok za krokem - najdete je zde.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

nahoru

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

nahoru

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

nahoru

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

nahoru

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

nahoru

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

nahoru

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

nahoru

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

nahoru

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

nahoru

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

nahoru

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

nahoru

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

nahoru

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

nahoru

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

nahoru

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

nahoru

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

nahoru

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

nahoru

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

nahoru

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

nahoru

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

nahoru

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

nahoru

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Komentáře / Otázky (20)

Mary Guenther 08.09.2019 - 06:05:

HEEL DECREASE: In all the instructions for decreasing the for the heel I have seen there is always an EVEN number of heel flap stitches. In this pattern there are only 31. How do you make it come out right with an odd number?

DROPS Design 09.09.2019 kl. 08:35:

Dear Mrs Guenther, work the heel over the 31 sts then work the HEEL DECREASE as explained: you will decrease 1 stitch on each side (a total of 8 times) until 15 sts remain on the needle. Happy knitting!

Joan 13.03.2019 - 04:07:

I am making the small size so cast on 66 stitches, completed M1 with no problem, decreased stitches my 1 as pattern says to start M2. There are 26 stitches in the M2 repeat. How does this work with 65 total stitches since 65 is not a multiple of 26? There are two complete repeats and 13 stitches left for a third repeat. What am I not understanding?

DROPS Design 13.03.2019 kl. 08:03:

Hi Joan. Sometimes the stitch count is not divisible with full/whole repeats of the diagram in width. Please see the lesson HERE. Happy knitting!

K. W. Van Duijn 27.09.2018 - 17:19:

In het patroon ontbreekt de navolgende instructie na “Brei na M.3 1 nld met Delight over alle steken” en zet ondertussen 1 stuk van de ondervoet (= 35 stk) over naar de bovenvoet (= 37 stk). “Ga verder als volgt.... enz. “

Josephine Nellerup 24.04.2018 - 16:03:

Hur gör man förändringen av maskantalet här, var när hur? stickas M.2 SAMTIDIGT som m-antalet justeras till 65-78-78 på första v i M.2. När M.2 har stickats en gång på höjden, stickas M.3 SAMTIDIGT som m-antalet minskas till 64-72-72 m på första v i M.3.

DROPS Design 30.04.2018 kl. 13:13:

Hei Josephine. Det betyr at du øker eller feller jevnt fordelt på første omgangen av mønsteret. Altså når du justerer maskeantallet på første omgangen av M.2 skal du for størrelse 35/37 felle 1 maske, for størrelse 38/40 øke 6 masker, og for størrelse 41/43 øke 6 masker jevnt fordelt. Det samme gjelder når du feller i M.3: du feller jevnt fordelt. Du finner ut hvilke masker du bør felle ved å dele det gamle masketallet på antall fellinger. Feks, for størrelse 38/40: 78 delt på 6 = 13. Da strikker du hver 12 og 13 maske sammen rundt første omgangen av M.3. God fornøyelse

Satu 28.05.2016 - 11:05:

Tehdäänkö tähän kantapää samalla tavalla kuin ohjeeseen 116-55?

DROPS Design 21.09.2016 kl. 16:53:

Hei! Kyseisten sukkien kantapäät neulotaan eri tavalla.

Garnstudio Deutschland 21.01.2014 - 12:18:

Liebe Monika, Vielen Dank für den Hinweis, wir werden das gleich korrigieren.

Monika Roggo 21.01.2014 - 10:40:

Laut Orginal Anleitung ist der Anschlag 66-72-72 M (nicht 66-66-72)

Louise 21.01.2011 - 21:02:

For at gøre overgangen mellem omg finere i M1 kan den laves således oooooooooooo xxxxxxxxxxxx oooooooooooo xxxxxxxxxxxx ooxooxooxoox ooxooxooxoox ooxooxooxoox ooxooxooxoox xxxxxxxxxxxx (o=delight, x=fabel)

Inge 28.07.2010 - 11:06:

Weer zo'n prachtig model!!!

Fabie 09.07.2010 - 07:51:

Zo leuk we wachten op patroon :)

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