DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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DROPS 142-6
DROPS design: Pattern no u-674
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 78-88-96-104-114-130 cm /
30 3/4"-34½"-37 3/4"-41"-45"-51½"
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm /
22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''

Materials: DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
600-650-700-750-850-900 g color no 60, blue turquoise

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 17 dc x 10 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS SEASHELL BUTTON w/HOLES, NO 525: 4 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO: Replace first dc on every round/row with 3 ch.
Finish every round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Finish every row with 1 dc in first dc from beg of previous row.

INCREASE TIP: Inc by working 2 dc in 1 dc, first on one side of all markers on row, next time on the other side of all markers on row, continue inc like this.

DECREASE TIP: Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next dc but on last pull through, pull thread through all sts on hook = 1 st dec.
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BODY:
The piece is worked top down. Worked back and forth from mid front. Ch 111-116-121-131-136-146 (includes 3 ch to turn with) on hook size 4 mm / G/6 with Karisma.
Work next row as follows:
1 dc in 4th ch (= 2 dc), 1 dc in each of the next ch 2, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* = 88-92-96-104-108-116 dc - read CROCHET INFO.
Insert 19-20-21-23-24-26 markers in the piece as follows: Insert 1st marker after 8th dc, then insert 18-19-20-22-23-25 markers 4 dc apart, 8 dc remain after last marker.
Work back and forth with dc while AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 dc at all markers as follows: On every other row 5-6-6-5-5-6 times and then on every 4th row 2-2-2-3-3-3 times – READ INCREASE TIP = 221-252-264-288-300-350 dc.
Work 1 row while at the same time inc 14-7-7-7-19-5 dc evenly (do not inc over the first and last 6 dc = band) = 235-259-271-295-319-355 dc.

Work next row as follows: 36-40-43-47-51-58 dc (front piece), ch 8 (= under sleeve), skip 52-56-56-60-64-68 dc from previous row (used for sleeve later), 59-67-73-81-89-103 dc (back piece), ch 8 (under sleeve), skip 52-56-56-60-64-68 dc from previous row (used for sleeve later) and 36-40-43-47-51-58 dc (front piece). Insert a marker and measure the piece from here.
Work 1 dc in every dc/ch = 147-163-175-191-207-235 dc.
Continue to work as follows: 1 dc in each of the first 6 dc (= band), * ch 1, skip 3 dc, work 3 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* and finish with ch 1, skip 3 dc and work 1 dc in each of the last 6 dc (= 33-37-40-44-48-55 dc-groups with 6 dc in each side).

Continue to work as follows:
ROW 1: 1 dc in each of the first 6 dc, 3 dc in first ch, ch 1, * skip 3 dc, 3 dc in next ch, ch 1 *, repeat from *-* until 1 ch and 6 dc remain, finish with 3 dc in last ch and 1 dc in each of the last 6 dc.
ROW 2: 1 dc in each of the first 6 dc, * ch 1, skip 3 dc, 3 dc in next ch *, repeat from *-* until 6 dc remain, finish with ch 1 and 1 dc in each of the last 6 dc.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row upwards.
When piece measures 10 cm / 4'' from marker, inc 1 dc-group in the right side as follows: Work 3 dc + 1 ch in the first 8-9-10-11-12-13 ch, in next ch work as follows: 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc, 1 ch. When piece measures 17 cm / 6 3/4'', inc the same way in the left side – inc when 9-10-11-12-13-14 ch remain.
When piece measures 24 cm / 9½'', inc 1 dc-group in the right side, inc in the 10-11-12-13-14-15 ch the same way as before. When piece measures 31 cm / 12 1/4'', inc in the left side – inc when 10-11-12-13-14-15 ch remain.
After all inc are done there are 37-41-44-48-52-59 dc-groups on row. Cut and fasten the thread when piece measures 37-37-39-39-41-42 cm / 14½"-14½"-15 1/4"-15 1/4"-16 1/8"-16½" from marker, piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26'' in total.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round, top down. Beg by working mid under sleeve as follows: Work 1 sc in the 5th ch of the 8 ch worked for armhole on body. Ch 3 (= 1 dc). Then work 1 dc in each of the next 3 ch. Then work 1 dc in every dc over sleeve, before working 1 dc in each of the remaining 4 ch under sleeve = 60-64-64-68-72-76 dc. Insert a marker mid under sleeve. Continue to work as follows: 1 dc in each of the first 10-10-10-12-12-14 dc, * ch 1, skip 3 dc, work 3 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* and work 1 dc in each of the last 10-10-10-12-12-14 dc.
Continue with 1 dc in each of the 20-20-20-24-24-28 dc mid under sleeve, in every ch work 3 dc + 1 ch.
Continue this pattern AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec 1 dc on each side of marker - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 3½-3½-3½-3-3-2½ cm / 1 1/4"-1 1/4"-1 1/4"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-7/8" 9-9-9-11-11-13 more times = 40-44-44-44-48-48 dc.
After all dec, work 3 dc + 1 ch in every ch. Cut and fasten the thread when sleeve measures 47-46-46-44-44-43 cm / 18½"-18½"-18"-17 1/4"-17 1/4"-17" from marker – NOTE – shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of larger neck and wider shoulders.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons on to left front piece – the top button 1 cm / 3/8'' from neck edge, the last in the transition between dc and dc-groups. Button the buttons between 2 dc on right front piece.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 19.09.2012
BODY (* is moved in front of ch 1): ... Continue to work as follows: 1 dc in each of the first 6 dc (= band), * ch 1, skip 3 dc, work 3 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* and finish with ch 1, skip 3 dc and work 1 dc in each of the last 6 dc (= 33-37-40-44-48-55 dc-groups with 6 dc in each side).

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (128)

country flag Sigrun Radau wrote:

Warum nicht beide Seiten gleichzeitig zunehmen? Hat das einen besonderen Grund ( wegen muster??) Sieht dass hinterher nicht schief aus?

13.04.2023 - 13:09

DROPS Design answered:

Wie früher gesagt werden so die Zunahmen weniger unauffällig und die Jacke wird dann nicht "plötzlich" breiter. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

13.04.2023 - 14:37

country flag Sigrun Radau wrote:

Hallo, nach Aufteilung für die einzelnen Teilen Markierung setzen. Dann die Zunahmen: nach 10 cm re/17 cm li/24cm re/31 cm li. Warum? Verstehe die unterschiedlichen Längen nicht.

12.04.2023 - 17:27

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Radau, so werden die Zunahmen gehäkelt, dh nicht alle auf einmal sondern eine nach der anderen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

13.04.2023 - 09:35

country flag Marion Slikkerveer wrote:

Goedemorgen, er staat als ik het goed lees in de eerste toer dat je steeds een losse haakt en dan 4 stokjes vanaf en tot * ik neem aan dat je dan ook een st overslaat, maar dan krijg je hokjes en dat zie ik op het plaatje niet terug. Het meerderen geeft bij mij ook problemen, ik haak bij elke markeerder 2 stokjes in 1 stokje. Nu in de 7e toer al op het stekenaantal! Sla wel de volgende toer over maar niet na de 4e toer. Is dat het probleem ?

14.02.2022 - 10:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marion,

Je haakt aan het begin van de toer steeds 3 lossen (boven het laatste stokje van de vorige toer) welke het eerste stokje vervangt. Het volgende stokje haak je dus in het tweede stokje van de vorige toer.

Je meerdert eerst om de toer (dus de ene toer wel en de andere toer niet) 5-6-6-5-5-6 keer. Afhankelijk van je maat zit je dan dus op 10 of 12 toeren. Daarna meerder je 2-2-2-3-3-3 keer op elke 4e naald.

17.02.2022 - 11:23

country flag GIUSEPPINA wrote:

Buonasera purtroppo non riesco a capire dove è come fare gli aumenti nel corpo...il segnapunti l'ho messo a fine riga dove ho creato scalfi con 8 catenelle. Dopodiché ho fatto una riga piena e poi ho iniziato il traforato. Adesso sono ferma a 10 cm per aumenti...non capisco perché si parla di catenelle e non spazi o maglie alte...ho provato a fare 3 m.a - 1 cat - 3 m.a. nello stesso spazio ma si nota tantissimo...scusatemi e grazie

21.01.2022 - 18:35

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Giuseppina, le spiegazioni sono corrette: deve lavorare gli aumenti a 10 cm dal segnapunti come indicato. Deve lavorare 3 m.a. + 1 catenella nelle prime 8-9-10-11-12-13 catenelle, nella catenella successiva lavorare come segue: 3 m.a., 1 catenella, 3 m.a., 1 catenella; poi, a 17 cm farà l'aumento sul lato sinistro quando rimangono 9-10-11-12-13-14 catenelle. Buon lavoro!

22.01.2022 - 18:43

country flag Evelyne wrote:

Bonjour. En effet, je n'avais pas pris en compte celà. Merci beaucoup de votre réponse, et pour tous les modèles au crochet mis à notre disposition. Vivement que je réceptionne ma laine karisma. Bonne journée.

17.11.2021 - 10:01

country flag Evelyne wrote:

Bonjour. Pour le modèle en taille S. On débute avec 111 mailles moins les 3 ml pour tourner. On a 108 m, on ajoute 5 fois 19 augmentations tous les 2 rangs et 2 fois 19 augmentations tous les 4 rangs. Donc 108+133=241 et vous annoncez 221 m. Je ne comprends pas comment arriver à avoir 221 m. Merci pour la réponse. Cordialement.

15.11.2021 - 19:08

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Evelyne, on commence par plus de mailles en l'air que de brides au 1er rang car bien souvent la chaînette de base est trop serrée, on va donc sauter des mailles au 1er rang pour terminer avec 88 brides au 1er rang + (5+2) x 19 augmentations pour l'empiècement = 221 brides. Bon crochet!

16.11.2021 - 08:46

country flag Sylvia wrote:

Ik ben begonnen met het vest 142-6. Ik begrijp het meerderen met de markers maar toch een vraag. Laat je de markers zitten als ze eenmaal aangebracht zijn of verplaats ik elke toer met meerderenden de markers mee? Het is mijn eerste keer vandaar mijn onervaren vraag. Alvast bedankt voor het antwoord.

27.09.2021 - 15:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Sylvia,

De markeerders laat je op de positie in de breedte en schuif je mee in de hoogte tijdens het breien, zodat je steeds weet waar je moet meerderen.

30.09.2021 - 11:06

country flag Patricia wrote:

Meerder bij een hoogte van 10 cm vanaf de markeerder 1 stk-groep aan de rechterkant als volgt: Haak 3 stk en 1 l in de eerste 8-9-10-11-12-13 l, haak in de volgende l als volgt: 3 stk, 1 l, 3 stk, 1 l. Meerder bij een hoogte van 17 cm op dezelfde manier aan de linkerkant – meerder als er 9-10-11-12-13-14 l over zijn. Ik zie even niet hoe dit nu precies zit. Want als je eerst aan de ene kant meerderd en dan aan de andere kant dan word het toch scheef?

08.09.2021 - 22:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Patricia,

Je haakt de ene keer bij het meerderen aan de rechterkant van alle markeerdraden en de volgende keer steeds aan de linkerkant van alle markeerdraden. Het afwisselend rechts en links meerderen voorkomt juist dat het werk scheef wordt.

17.09.2021 - 10:57

country flag Robine wrote:

Ik begrijp niet wat er wordt bedoeld met: om de toer 5-6-6-5-5-6 keer en elke 4e toer 2-2-2-3-3-3 keer. Kunt u dat uitleggen?

22.08.2020 - 16:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Robine,

Stel je haakt maat S, dan geldt het eerste getal van de reeks getallen. Je meerdert in dat geval 5 keer om de toer (dus de ene toer wel en de andere toer niet) en daarna meerder je op elke 4e toer en dit doe je in totaal 2 keer.

26.08.2020 - 14:41

country flag Sri wrote:

Hi Could you please tell me how many rows of dcs and how long would it measure? When I reached end of the part. "Work 1 row while at the same time inc 14-7-7-7-19-5 dc evenly (do not inc over the first and last 6 dc = band) = 235-259-271-295-319-355 dc." I am getting confused with increasing part. Thank you Sri

03.04.2020 - 03:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sri, these increases are worked on one row only, crochet this row in pattern as before (with the 6 front band sts on each side) and increase evenly 14-7-7-7-19-5 dc working 2 sts in the same sts a total of 14-7-7-7-19-5 times on this row - read more here about how to increase evenly. Happy crocheting!

03.04.2020 - 08:02