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A Kiss For Midwinter by DROPS Design

Virkattu DROPS jakku ”Nepal”-langasta. Koot XS-XXXL.

DROPS design: Malli nro NE-008
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Koko: XS/S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Langanmenekki: Garnstudion DROPS NEPAL:
550-650-700-750-800-900 g nro 6314, farkunsininen

DROPS VIRKKUUKOUKKU NRO 4,5 tai käsialan mukaan.
VIRKKUUTIHEYS: 12 p x 7 krs koukulla nro 4,5 = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS KUORINAPPI REIÄLLINEN (526): 6-6-6-6-7-7 kpl.

Oletko tehnyt tämän mallin, tai jonkun muun malleistamme? Jaa kuvia sosiaalisissa medioissa ja merkitse ne #dropsdesign, jotta voimme nähdä ne!

Haluatko käyttää toista lankaa? Kokeile lankamuunnintamme!
Etkö ole varma minkä koon mukaan sinun tulisi neuloa/virkata? Kuvan malli on noin 170 cm pituinen ja käyttää kokoa S tai M. Mikäli teet puseron, jakun, mekon tai muuta vastaavaa, löydät valmiin neuleen mitat (cm) ohjeen alareunassa olevasta mittapiirroksesta.
Kommentit (122)

65% Villaa, 35% Alpakkaa
alkaen 1.80 € /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 1.80 € /50g
Käsityöliike Menita
Tilaa
DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 1.90 € /50g
Käsityöliike Menita
Tilaa
Puikot & Virkkuukoukut
Saat tämän mallin langat alkaen 19.80€. Lue lisää.
VIRKKAUSINFO: Jokaisen kerroksen ensimmäinen p korvataan 3 kjs:lla. Joka kerroksen lopuksi virkataan 1 ps kerroksen/edellisen kerroksen 3. kjs:aan.

MALLIVIRKKAUS: Katso piirrokset M.1 ja M.2. Piirrokset näyttävät mallivirkkausta oikealta puolelta katsottuna.

KAVENNUSVINKKI: Virkkaa 1 p, mutta jätä viimeinen läpiveto vielä tekemättä (= 2 s koukulla), virkkaa seuraava p ja vedä lanka viimeisellä läpivedolla kaikkien koukulla olevien silmukoiden läpi. Olet nyt kaventanut 1 silmukan.
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ETU- JA TAKAKAPPALE:
Virkataan ylhäältä alas. Työ virkataan tasona keskeltä edestä alkaen. Virkkaa 91-99-107-115-123-131 kjs (sis. 3 kjs kääntymiseen) koukulla nro 4,5 ja Nepal-langalla. Seuraava krs virkataan näin: 1 p 4. kjs:aan, *jätä 1 kjs väliin, 1 p jokaiseen 3 seuraavaan kjs:aan*, toista *-*, jätä lopuksi 1 kjs väliin ja virkkaa 1 p kumpaankin 2 viimeiseen kjs:aan = 67-73-79-85-91-97 p (lue VIRKKAUSINFO). Virkkaa sitten 10 krs piirroksen M.1 mukaisesti (kummankin reunan uloimmat 5 p = etureunat). Etureunojen kohdalla virkataan 1 p jokaiseen p:seen (näitä silmukoita ei ole laskettu mukaan piirrokseen). Kun olet virkannut piirroksen loppuun, työssä on 162-178-194-210-226-242 p. Jatka virkkaamalla 1 p jokaiseen p:seen. Kun työn pituus on 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm, virkkaa seuraava krs näin: 5 p etureunaan, 1-0-2-1-0-2 p, toista sitten piirroksen M.2 mallikertaa kunnes jäljellä on 6-5-7-6-5-7 p, virkkaa lopuksi 1-0-2-1-0-2 p ja 5 p etureunaan. Virkkaa nyt 1 p jokaiseen p:seen kunnes työn pituus on 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm. Seuraava krs virkataan näin: 24-27-30-33-36-40 p (etukappale), 8 kjs (hihan alla), jätä edellisen krs:n seuraavat 38-40-42-44-46-46 p väliin (tähän virkataan myöhemmin hiha), 38-44-50-56-62-70 p (takakappale), 8 kjs (hihan alla), jätä edellisen krs:n seuraavat 38-40-42-44-46-46 p väliin (tähän virkataan myöhemmin hiha) ja virkkaa 24-27-30-33-36-40 p (etukappale). Virkkaa sitten 1 p jokaiseen p:seen/kjs:aan = 102-114-126-138-150-166 p. Kiinnitä 1 merkkilanka kumpaankin sivuun, hihan alle luotujen 8 kjs:n keskelle (takakappale = 46-52-58-64-70-78 p, etukappaleet = 28-31-34-37-40-44 p). Virkkaa jatkossa 1 p jokaiseen p:seen. Kun työn pituus on 34-36-38-40-42-44 cm, kavenna tasavälein 8 s (älä tee kavennuksia etureunojen kohdalla, LUE KAVENNUSVINKKI) = 94-106-118-130-142-158 p. Kun työn pituus on 40-42-44-46-48-50 cm, lisää tasavälein 12-12-12-12-12-14 p (älä tee lisäyksiä etureunojen kohdalla) = 106-118-130-142-154-172 p. Kun työn pituus on 43-45-47-49-51-53 cm, virkkaa seuraavasti: 5 p etureunaan, toista sitten piirroksen M.2 mallikertaa ja virkkaa lopuksi 5 p etureunaan. Jatka virkkaamalla 1 p jokaiseen p:seen. Kun työn pituus on 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm, katkaise lanka ja päättele langanpäät.

HIHA:
Virkataan ylhäältä alas. Aloita virkkaaminen keskeltä hihan alta näin: Virkkaa 1 ks etu- ja takakappaleen kädentien 8 kjs:n 5. kjs:aan. Virkkaa 3 kjs (= 1 p), virkkaa sitten 1 p jokaiseen kjs:aan. HUOM: Ennen kuin jatkat virkkaamista pitkin kädentien reunaa, virkkaa rajakohtaan 1 p (jottei työhön muodostuisi reikää). Virkkaa sitten 1 p kädentien reunan jokaiseen p:seen. Virkkaa 1 p rajakohtaan ja virkkaa sitten 1 p jokaiseen hihan alla jäljellä olevaan kjs:aan = 48-50-52-54-56-56 p. Kiinnitä 1 merkkilanka keskelle hihan alle. KAIKKI MITAT OTETAAN JATKOSSA TÄSTÄ.
Virkkaa 1 p jokaiseen p:seen. Kun työn pituus on 4 cm, kavenna merkkilangan molemmin puolin 1 s (lue KAVENNUSVINKKI). Toista tällaiset kavennukset 4½-4½-4-4-4-4 cm välein yht. 8-8-9-9-9-9 kertaa = 32-34-34-36-38-38 p. Kun hihan pituus on 45-45-44-44-43-43 cm (HUOM: Suurimmissa koissa on lyhyemmät mitat, koska niissä on leveämpi pääntie ja leveämmät olat), katkaise lanka ja päättele langanpäät.

VIIMEISTELY:
Kiinnitä napit vasempaan etukappaleeseen. Ylin nappi kiinnitetään 1 cm päähän pääntien reunasta, muut aina n. 8 cm välein. Napit napitetaan etureunan 2 p:ään väliin.

Piirros

= 1 p p:seen
= 1 p kjs-kaareen
= 1 kjs
= 2 p samaan p:seen


1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

2) Mitä ovat lankaryhmät?

Kaikki lankamme jaetaan lankaryhmiin (A-F) niiden paksuuden ja neuletiheyden mukaan - ryhmään A kuuluvat kaikkein ohuimmat langat ja ryhmään F kuuluvat kaikkein paksuimmat langat. Tällä tavoin löydät helpommin ohjeisiimme korvaavia lankoja, mikäli haluat neuloa työn jollakin toisella langalla. Kaikilla samaan ryhmään kuuluvilla langoilla on lähes sama neuletiheys ja niitä voidaan vaihtaa keskenään. Eri langoilla on kuitenkin eri ominaisuuksia ja pintoja, joten lopputuloksesta tulee ainutlaatuinen.

Klikkaa tästä nähdäksesi jokaisen lankaryhmän langat

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

18) Voinko neuloa suljettuna neuleena neulottavan puseron tasona?

p>Mikäli neulot suljetun neuleen sijaan mieluummin tasoneuletta, voit tietysti muuttaa ohjetta siten, että neulot osat erikseen ja ompelet ne lopuksi yhteen. Jaa miehustan silmukkaluku kahdella, lisää 1 reunasilmukka kumpaankin reunaan (saumaa varten) ja neulo etukappale ja takakappale erikseen.

Katso DROPS oppitunti: Voinko neuloa pyöröpuikolla neulottavan työn paripuikoilla?

19) Minkä vuoksi ohjeissanne näytetään poistettuja lankoja?

p>Eri langoilla on eri ominaisuuksia ja rakenteita ja tämän vuoksi olemme jättäneet alkuperäiset langat ohjeisiin. Lankamuuntimemme avulla löydät kuitenkin helposti nykyisestä valikoimastamme vastaavia lankoja, tai valitse joku muu samaan lankaryhmään kuuluva lanka.

Joillakin jälleenmyyjillä saattaa olla valikoimastamme poistuneita lankoja vielä varastossaan, jotkut asiakkaat etsivät ehkä sopivaa neuletyötä aiemmin ostamilleen langoille.

Lankamuunnin hakee lankavaihtoehtoja ja laskee uuden langan metrimäärän.

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.