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Liebe Christel, die Runden beginnen in der Mitte vom Rückenteil, so stricken Sie zuerst A.1 (= 5 oder 10 Maschen, siehe Größe, dann stricken Sie A.2 (=alle diese Maschen sind für das Rückenteil, nicht nur A.2). Dann stricken Sie A.3, A.4, A.3 für die Ärmel (A.3 = Raglamaschen); usw. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Odpověď DROPS Design

Dag Ann,

Helaas begrijp ik je vraag niet. Wat wil je precies berekenen met een grafiek? Op basis van de stekenverhouding kun je uitrekenen hoeveel steken je moet meerderen om op een bepaalde breedte te komen. En hoe vaak je dit moet doen hangt af van de stekenverhouding in de hoogte.

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Bonjour Anne, vous allez tricoter maintenant A.3 comme indiqué, tout en augmentant comme avant, autrement dit, vous continuer le même motif, mais avec des augmentations avant A.3A et après A.3C. Bon tricot!

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Bonjour Mme Wargnie, sur ce rang du diagramme, cette maille n'existe pas encore car elle n'a pas encore été créee; autrement dit, tricotez le 1er rang de A.1 ainsi: 1 m end, 2 m env, 2 m end, 1 m env, 1 jeté, 1 m env, 2 m end, 2 m env, 1 m end (12 mailles augmentées à 13 grâce au jeté). Dans A.2, sautez simplement les cases avec le carré noir. Bon tricot!

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Hej Gerd, jo da skal du felle. Skriv dit spørgsmål ind på selve opskriften, så kan vi tjekke opskriften inden vi guider dig :)

Odpověď DROPS Design

Dear Jacklyn, the increases are the yarn overs (empty oval shapes) in the A.1 chart. For size M you have 13 increases per chart repeat. Since you have 15 repeats of A.1 on the round, you should have 195 increases. 195+75 = 270 stitches. Happy knitting!

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Hei Solbritt. Usikker på hva du gjør feil, har du riktig maskeantall når du starter med A.3? Tips: Sett 1 maskemarkør/merketråd før du begynner å strikke A.3 og 1 etter at du har strikker A.3. Du har da 63 masker mellom maskemarkørene og du vil da ha en bedre oversikt når A.3 strikkes, slik at ikke mønstret forskyver seg. Evnt. bruk flere maskemarkører, slik at du hele tiden ser hvor du er i diagrammet. Du har 63 masker i A.3 bortsett fra pinne 4, 8, 12 og 16, men det blir riktig maskeantall pinnen etter. mvh DROPS Design

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Bonjour Mme Obissier, en fonction de la taille, vous allez tricoter ce tour endroit en augmentant 4 mailles en taille XL ou bien 8 mailles en taille XXL, mais dans les autres tailles, vous n'avez pas besoin d'augmenter. Bon tricot!

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Dear Jan, the stitches on the edges are repeated every 4 rows. That is, when working row 5 of the central stitches, you work row 1 of the edge stitches. Happy knitting!

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Dag Noreen,

Je begint gewoon met een nieuwe herhaling van het patroon, maar je stopt als je 4 steken van het patroon hebt gebreid. Als het ware knip je dus eens stukje van het patroon af.

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Bonjour Mme Vercoutere, dans ce modèle, les diagrammes sont pour les augmentations de l'empiècement, autrement dit, sur l'endroit, tricotez le 1er rang des diagrammes comme indiqué pour la taille, vous allez augmenter 2 mailles dans chacun de ces diagrammes, pour A.1, vous répétez 13-14-15-16-18-19 fois ces diagrammes en largeur, vous allez donc augmenter 2 mailles dans chacun de ces 13-14-15-16-18-19 motifs, soit 26-28-30-32-36-38 mailles en plus après le 1er rang de A.1. Bon tricot!

Odpověď DROPS Design

Dear Tina, the increases are included in diagrams, as you repeat diagrams in the round, you will repeat the increases in the round, for ex when you work (A.1, A.2) all the round you will increase 1 st in each A.1 and 1 stitch in each A.2 all the round. Happy knitting!

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Dear Lynette, it means that you work the stitches of A.2b over the stitches worked according to chart A.2a and A.3b over the stitches in A.3a. Since all of the charts' rounds are the same, except for the one with the cable, you need to work the round with the cable in the same round as you work the cable in A.1; the rest of the rounds of A.2b and A.3b are worked as repeats of p2, k6, p2. Happy knitting!

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Dear Barbara, when there is a 0 between 2 boxes/stitches, you k1 (first box), make 1 yarn over and k1 (second box). In the next round, there should be 1 more stitch for every yarn over (0) worked, unless you also worked decreases in the same round (which removes 1 stitch from the next round). Happy knitting!

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Dear Elisabeth, in A.1 in row 1 work k1, yarn over, k1 and then work in stocking stitch the next 4 rows (purl from the wrong side and knit from the right side). In A.2, the first row is worked as in A.1 but the next 4 rows are worked in reverse stocking stitch (knit from the wrong side and purl from the right side). There are a total of five rows in both charts. When you are working the piece, since you are alternating between A.1 and A.2, you should have something similar to a rib; on the 2nd row, for example, you have *purl 3 (A.1) and knit 3 (A.2)* and repeat this rib. Continue until you have worked all 5 rows of charts A.1 and A.2. Happy knitting!

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Dear Mrs Dietricg, that's because you are decreasing on some rows, then on next row you have fewer stitches, to be able to draw the diagram, there are empty spaces (for decreased stitches), so just continue working in line, skipping the spaces that are just matching the stitches you previously decreased. Happy knitting!