NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here.
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DOUBLE SEED ST:
1st round: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-*.
2nd round: K over K and P over P.
3rd round: * P 1, K 1 *, repeat from *-*.
4th round: P over P and K over K.
Repeat rounds 1-4.
Work medium gray and light gray alternately every 11-11-11½-12-12-12½ cm / 4 3/8-4 3/8-4½-4Ύ-4Ύ-5. NOTE: Measure first stripe from cast on edge. Work medium gray in the last stripe on the body and sleeve until finished measurements.
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next round work YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes.
Row 1 (= from RS): K all sts.
Row 2 (= from WS): * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-*.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 213-234-255-288-318-351 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with light gray. Work rib as follows: * K 1, P 2 *, repeat from *-*. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½, K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 53-58-63-72-78-87 sts evenly (dec by K tog approx. every 3rd and 4th st) = 160-176-192-216-240-264 sts. Then switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and continue in the round with DOUBLE SEED ST and STRIPES - See explanation above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When piece measures 15-15-16-16-17-17 cm / 6-6-6Ό-6Ό-6Ύ-6Ύ, insert 2 markers in the piece; 1 at beg of round and 1 after 80-88-96-108-120-132 sts (marks the sides). On next round, inc 1 st on each side of every marker - Read INCREASE TIP above = 4 new sts on round. NOTE: Work the new sts in double seed st. Repeat inc one more time when piece measures 30-30-32-32-34-34 cm / 11Ύ-11Ύ-12½-12½-13½-13½ = 168-184-200-224-248-272 sts.
When piece measures 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm / 18½-19-19Ό-19Ύ-20-20½, divide the piece at the markers and finish each part separately.
= 84-92-100-112-124-136 sts (1st row = RS). Continue with stripes and double seed st - while AT THE SAME TIME casting/binding off for armholes in beg of every row in each side: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-1-2-4-6-8 times and 1 st 1-2-3-4-5-6 times = 76-78-80-82-84-86 sts. When piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm / 25Ό-26-26Ύ-27½-28 3/8-29 1/8, bind off the middle 24-26-28-30-32-34 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then dec 1 st on next row from neck (dec by working the outermost 2 sts towards the neck tog) = 25 sts remain on shoulder in all sizes. Loosely bind off all sts when piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm / 26-26Ύ-27½-28 3/8-29 1/8-30.
= 84-92-100-112-124-136 sts. Continue with stripes and double seed st. Start bind offs for armholes as on back piece on 1st row (= RS) - AT THE SAME TIME slip the middle 26-28-30-32-34-36 sts on a stitch holder for neck at the front, now finish each part separately. Bind off for armholes in each side as on back piece. When all bind offs are done, 25 sts remain on each shoulder. Continue in double seed st and with stripes. When piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm / 26-26Ύ-27½-28 3/8-29 1/8-30, loosely bind off all sts.
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 63-66-69-72-75-78 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with light gray. Work rib as follows: * K 1, P 2 *, repeat from *-*. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½, K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 15-16-17-18-19-20 sts evenly (dec by K tog approx. every 3rd and 4th st) = 48-50-52-54-56-58 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and insert a marker at beg of round. Continue in the round with DOUBLE SEED ST and STRIPES. When piece measures 8-8-7-7-7-6 cm / 3-3-2Ύ-2Ύ-2Ύ-2½, inc 1 st on each side of marker = 2 new sts. Repeat inc every 5-4½-3½-3-2½-2½ cm / 2-1Ύ-1Ό-1 1/8-7/8 -7/8 a total of 10-11-13-15-17-18 times = 68-72-78-84-90-94 sts. When piece measures 57-57-56-56-54-53 cm / 22½-22½-22-22-21Ό-21 (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders) bind off 3 sts on each side of marker (= 6 sts mid under sleeve). Then work back and forth on circular needle. Continue to bind off for sleeve cap in beg of every row each side: 2 sts 2-2-3-3-5-5 times, and then 1 st 3-4-4-5-5-6 times. Then bind off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 64-65-65-66-66-67 cm / 25Ό-25½-25½-26-26-26 3/8, then bind off 3 sts 1 time in each side. Loosely bind off all sts. Piece measures approx. 65-66-66-67-67-68 cm / 25½-26-26-26 3/8-26 3/8-26Ύ.
Sew the shoulder seam.. Sew in the sleeves.
Worked back and forth on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with medium gray as follows: Pick up sts from stitch holder mid front (leave the stitch holder) = 26-28-30-32-34-36 sts, P 1 row from WS. Then work PATTERN 1 from RS - See explanation above. When collar measures 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm / 7½-8-8Ό-8Ύ-9-9½ (last row = 2nd row in PATTERN 1 = WS), insert a marker at the end of row seen from RS. Continue in GARTER ST - See explanation above - until finished measurements - At the same time work short rows as follows: * Work 2 rows over all sts, work 2 rows over the outermost 20 sts towards mid front *, repeat from *-* until piece measures 8-9-9-10-10-11 cm / 3 1/8-3½-3½-4-4-4 3/8 from marker (in the shorter side). Bind off.
Knit up the sts from stitch holder from RS behind right collar = left collar is underneath right collar. Work the same way as on right collar but reversed (work short rows over the outermost 20 sts towards mid front).
Sew right collar to right front piece and left collar to left front piece in outermost sts. Sew collar tog mid back and sew the neck on back piece.
Make 1 strap as follows: Twine 2 strands of 40 cm / 15Ύ in medium gray and fold them double and let them twist. Make another strap the same way. Fasten the straps approx. 4 and 11 cm / 1½ and 4½ up from bottom edge on right collar (approx. 1 cm / ½ from edge mid front). Pull the strands through the collar and fasten the ends on the back. Sew button on left collar approx. 2 and 4 cm / Ύ and 1½ in from seam for left front piece.