DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 £ /50g

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.30£.

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Port of France

Knitted jumper in DROPS Paris. The piece is worked top down with diagonal/European shoulders, V-neck, stripes and split in sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 250-11
DROPS Design: Pattern w-918
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
500-550-600-650-750-800 g colour 17, off white
150-150-150-200-200-200 g colour 30, jeans blue

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm circular needle in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jumpers Basic Jumpers Striped Jumpers assembly free european shoulder stocking stitch stripes top down v-neck

UK
Ireland

DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 £ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.30£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (from right side):
Increase 1 stitch towards the left.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from the front and knit the back loop.
Increase 1 stitch towards the right.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from the back and knit the front loop.

INCREASE TIP-2 (from wrong side):
Increase 1 stitch towards the left.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from the back and purl the front loop.
Increase 1 stitch towards the right.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick up strand from the front and purl the back loop.

V-NECK:
Increase for the V-neck on the front pieces. All increases are worked from the right side!
RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work until there are 4 stitches left on the row, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, work A.1.
On next row (= wrong side) slip the yarn over knit-wise onto the right needle, insert the left needle into the yarn-over and replace it on the left needle, purl the front loop.
LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work A.2, knit 1, make 1 yarn over, knit to end of row.
On next row (= wrong side) purl the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole:

STRIPES:
Work 1 repeat with stripes as follows:
2 rounds / rows with colour jeans blue
2 rounds / rows with colour off white
2 rounds / rows with colour jeans blue
2 rounds / rows with colour off white
2 rounds / rows with colour jeans blue
2 rounds / rows with colour off white
2 rounds / rows with colour jeans blue
= 14 rounds / rows. 1 repeat with stripes measures approx. 6½ cm.
Then work 12 rounds / rows with colour off white (approx. 5½ cm) for the next stripe.
Work a total of 2 rpeeats with stripes on body and 3 repeats with stripes on sleeves. Then continue with colour off white.

STRIPE TIP (applies to stripes when knitted in the round):
For a neater transition at the end/beginning of the round when working stripes, it can be worked as follows: Change to the new color and work 1 round. Work the first stitch of the 2nd round as follows: Take the first stitch from the previous round onto the needle, knit this stitch together with the first stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
When working short rows, there will be a small hole when the piece is turned - the hole can be closed by tightening the thread or using the German Short rows technique as follows: Slip the first stitch as to purl. Then place the strand over the right needle, and tighten the strand tightly at the back (this should result in two loops on the needle). These loops are knitted together on the next row.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The pattern uses both long and short needles; start with the length which fits the number of stitches and change when necessary.
The piece is started back and forth, casting on stitches for the back of the neck, then working the back piece at the same time as increasing stitches for the shoulders, giving slightly diagonal shoulders. Work until the armholes are finished.
The front piece is started in 2 sections, first the neck, then stitches are knitted up along one back shoulder and the piece is worked back and forth while increasing for the neck. The other shoulder is worked in the same way. The 2 front pieces are joined when the V-neck is finished and worked until the armholes are finished.
The front and back pieces are joined and the body continued in the round with circular needle. Finally, the body is divided for the split in each side and finished back and forth.
Stitches are knitted up around each armhole, the sleeve cap worked back and forth with short rows, then the sleeve is finished in the round. The neck is sewn together at the back and sewn to the neckline.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 32-32-34-34-36-36 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and colour off-white DROPS Paris. Purl 1 row from the wrong side.

Read INCREASE TIP-1 and work as follows from the right side: Knit 3, increase towards the left, knit until there are 3 stitches left, increase towards the right, knit 3.
Read INCREASE TIP-2 and work as follows from the wrong side: Purl 3, increase towards the left, purl until there are 3 stitches left, increase towards the right, purl 3.

Continue like this, increasing from both the right and wrong side a total of 25-27-29-32-35-38 times. After the last increase there are 82-86-92-98-106-112 stitches. Insert 1 marker outermost on one side. The piece is now measured from here!

Continue with stocking stitch, working STRIPES – read description above, and increasing for the armholes as follows: When the piece measures 13-14-15-15-16-17 cm work stripes. AT THE SAME TIME, when the piece measures 14-15-16-16-16-16 cm increase for the armholes as follows from the right side: Knit 3, increase towards the left, knit until there are 3 stitches left, increase towards the right, knit 3 - remember INCREASE TIP-1 and REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Increase like this, on each row from the right side, a total of 2-2-2-2-3-4 times = 86-90-96-102-112-120 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 16-17-18-18-19-20 cm from the marker, measured along the armhole. Finish after a row from the wrong side. The armhole increases should be finished and you have approx. 3 cm of stripes. Cut the strand and place the stitches on a stitch holder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 4 stitches with double pointed needles size 5 mm and colour off-white DROPS Paris.
Work the neck as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in stocking stitch, A.1.
Work back and forth with knit over knit and purl over purl for 8-8-8½-8½-9-9 cm. Cut the strand.

Knit up 25-27-29-32-35-38 stitches inside the top stitches along the back right shoulder from the right side (1 stitch in each row along the diagonal shoulder) then continue over the neck from the right side as follows: Purl 2 together (= edge stitch decreased), knit 2 = 28-30-32-35-38-41 stitches. All measurements are now taken from here!
Work stocking stitch and A.1 back and forth as before. When the piece measures 8-9-9-10-10-11 cm, increase for the V-NECK. Increase 1 stitch every 2nd row (each row from the right side) a total of 13-13-14-14-15-15 times = 41-43-46-49-53-56 stitches.
Finish after a row from the right side. Place the stitches on a stitch holder.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 4 stitches with double pointed needles size 5 mm and colour off-white DROPS Paris.
Work the neck as follows from the right side: Work A.2, 1 edge stitch in stocking stitch.
Work back and forth with knit over knit and purl over purl for 8-8-8½-8½-9-9 cm, with the last row from the wrong side. Do not cut the strand.
On the next row from the right side work as follows: Knit 2, purl 2 together (= edge stitch decreased), knit up 25-27-29-32-35-38 stitches inside the top stitches along the back left shoulder, from the right side (1 stitch in each row along the diagonal shoulder) = 28-30-32-35-38-41 stitches. All measurements are now taken from here!
Work stocking stitch and A.2 back and forth as before. When the piece measures 8-9-9-10-10-11 cm, increase for the V-NECK – read description above. Increase 1 stitch every 2nd row (each row from the right side) a total of 13-13-14-14-15-15 times = 41-43-46-49-53-56 stitches. Finish after a row from the right side.

The 2 front pieces are now joined, working from the wrong side as follows: Purl the 41-43-46-49-53-56 stitches from the left front piece, place the stitches from the right front piece on the needle and purl them = 82-86-92-98-106-112 stitches.
Work as follows from the right side: Knit 39-41-44-47-51-54, place the next 2 stitches on a cable needle in front of the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle, knit the remaining 39-41-44-47-51-54 stitches.

Work stocking stitch back and forth, and work STRIPES when the piece measures 23-24-25-27-28-29 cm. AT THE SAME TIME, increase for the armholes from the right side as follows, when the piece measures 24-25-26-28-28-28 cm:
Knit 3, increase towards the left, knit until there are 3 stitches left, increase towards the right, knit 3 - remember INCREASE TIP-1.
Increase like this on each row from the right side a total of 2-2-2-2-3-4 times = 86-90-96-102-112-120 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 26-27-28-30-31-32 cm, finishing after a row from the wrong side. The armhole increases should be finished and you have approx. 3 cm of stripes; make sure you finish on the same row in the stripes as on the back piece.
Now join the front and back pieces for the body.

BODY:
Work the 86-90-96-102-112-120 stitches from the front piece, cast on 2-6-6-8-8-10 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work the 86-90-96-102-112-120 stitches from the back piece, cast on 2-6-6-8-8-10 stitches (= in side under sleeve) = 176-192-204-220-240-260 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and stripes in the round - read STRIPE TIPS, until the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm, measured from the top front shoulder.
Now divide for the split in each side, with 88-96-102-110-120-130 stitches on both the front and back pieces. Finish each piece separately.

FRONT PIECE:
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and continue back and forth. On the next row (right side) work rib as described below and increase 18-18-20-20-22-24 stitches evenly on the first row (do not increase over the garter stitches) = 106-114-122-130-142-154 stitches:
Work 2 GARTER STITCHES – read description above, rib (knit 2, purl 2 – remembering to increase stitches as described above) until there are 4 stitches left, knit 2, 2 garter stitches. Work this rib for 5 cm. Change to colour jeans blue and work 2 more rows of rib. Cast off. The jumper measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm, measured from the top front shoulder.

BACK PIECE:
Work in the same way as the front piece.

SLEEVES:
Lay the piece flat and insert 1 marker at the top of the armhole (NOTE! This is not where the stitches were knitted up but 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm down the front piece = mid-top of shoulder).
Use circular needle size 5 mm. Start in the middle of the cast-on stitches under the sleeve, knit up 74-80-84-90-94-98 stitches around the armhole – with equal numbers of stitches on each side of the marker. Work stocking stitch and short rows back and forth as follows, starting mid-under the sleeve (this gives the sleeve a better fit):

Row 1 (right side): Knit 10-10-11-11-12-12 stitches past the marker, turn – read KNITTING TIP.
Row 2 (wrong side): Purl 10-10-11-11-12-12 stitches past the marker, turn
Row 3 (right side): Knit 10-10-8-9-6-6 stitches past the previous turn, turn.
Row 4 (wrong side): Purl 10-10-8-9-6-6 stitches past the previous turn, turn.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until you have turned a total of 3-3-4-4-6-6 times on each side (you have worked 30-30-35-38-42-42 stitches past the marker). Knit to mid-under sleeve (beginning of round). Insert 1 marker-thread here which is used when decreasing under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards.

Work stocking stitch in the round and STRIPES. When the sleeve measures 4-4-5-5-6-6 cm, measured from the knitted-up stitches (all measurements are taken mid-top of sleeve), decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2nd round 2-3-3-4-4-5 times, then every 2½-2½-2-1½-1½-1½ cm 13-15-15-17-17-18 times. A total of 15-18-18-21-21-23 times = 44-44-48-48-52-52 stitches. Work until the sleeve measures 44-44-43-42-41-40 cm. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm.

Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 8-8-8-8-8-8 stitches evenly on the first round = 52-52-56-56-60-60 stitches. Work this rib for 5 cm. Change to colour jeans blue and work 2 more rounds of rib. Cast off. The sleeve measures 50-50-49-48-47-46 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the neck together mid-back and sew the neck to the neckline at the back.

Diagram

	= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
	= purl from right side, knit from wrong side

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (7)

Petra Zander Deutschland wrote:

Ich finde die Mengenangabe nicht...oder kann ich nur nicht richtig sehen?

26.04.2024 - 15:12

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Zander, die benötige Garnmenge finden Sie für jede Größe im Kopfteil unter Tab "Anleitung", z.B. in S brauchen Sie 500 g DROPS Paris / 50 g das Knaüel = 10 Knäuel in Farbe 17 + 150/50 = 3 Knäuel Farbe 30. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

26.04.2024 - 15:48

Angelika wrote:

Wieso steht unter dem Namen/Nr. der Anleitung die Garngruppe C oder A+A und dann beim verwendeten Garn DROPS PARIS mit der Garngruppe B? Das verwirrt mich gerade.

03.04.2024 - 13:10

Liebe Angelika, das ist nur ein Typo, sollte hier C sein und nicht B. Danke für den Hinweis, eine Korrektur erfolgt. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

03.04.2024 - 13:24

Marie Pascale wrote: