DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
DROPS Big Delight
DROPS Big Delight
100% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Northern Lights

Knitted DROPS jacket in garter st with short rows and stripes, worked top down in ”Big Delight” and ”Nepal”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 158-17
DROPS design: Pattern no db-037
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 98-110-116-124-136-148 cm / 38½"-43½"-45 3/4"-48 3/4"-53½"-58"
Full length: 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm / 30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8''-34 5/8''

Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
450-500-550-600-700-750 g color no 8903, black
and use:
DROPS BIG DELIGHT from Garnstudio
400-400-400-500-500-500 g color no 09, atlantis

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 8 mm / US 11 - or size needed to get 13 sts x 24 rows in garter st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DARK BUFFELHORN BUTTON NO 536: 2 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
DROPS Big Delight
DROPS Big Delight
100% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
* K 2 rows with Big Delight (= 1 stripe), K 2 rows with Nepal (= 1 stripe) *, repeat from *-*.

TIP 1:
When changing color in stripes, the strands must always be on WS of piece.

TIP 2:
To make the color transitions in Big Delight pretty when switching ball, it is important to find a ball that starts with the same color last ball ended with.

COLLAR:
* K 1 row over all sts, turn piece, K 1 row over all sts, turn piece, K 1 row over the first 17-17-17-18-18-18 sts, turn piece, K 1 row, turn piece *, repeat from *-*.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right front piece. 1 buttonhole = K tog fourth and fifth st from mid front and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes (measured from shoulder) when piece measures:
SIZE S: 29 and 37 cm / 11½" and 14½"
SIZE M: 30 and 38 cm / 11 3/4" and 15"
SIZE L: 31 and 39 cm / 12 1/4" and 15 1/4"
SIZE XL: 32 and 40 cm / 12½" and 15 3/4"
SIZE XXL: 33 and 41 cm / 13" and 16"
SIZE XXXL: 34 and 42 cm / 13½" and 16½"
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JACKET:
Worked in 4 parts, left and right back piece are sewn tog mid back when finished. Pick up sts around the sleeves and work a cuff from elbow and down. Work back and forth on circular needle so that piece can be moved to the opposite side and worked from each side of needle. READ TIP 2!

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work back and forth on circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 in GARTER ST - see explanation above, work from collar and down.
Cast on 22-22-22-24-24-24 sts with Nepal and work COLLAR - see explanation above (1st row = WS).
When collar measures 8-8-8-9-9-9 cm / 3"-3"-3"-3½"-3½"-3½" on the shortest side, cast on 49-53-53-55-57-61 new sts for sleeve from the shortest side on collar = 71-75-75-79-81-85 sts.
Insert 1 marker on this row – now measure piece from here. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Now work piece in PATTERN - see explanation above, yarn change for stripes is done in the side of piece. When piece measures 10 cm / 4", dec from WS inside 1 edge st towards mid front as follows: 1 st every 6th row 2 times in total, 1 st every 4th row 4-4-4-5-5-5 times in total. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm / 6¼''-6¾''-7''-7½''-8''-8¼'', bind off sts for sleeve as follows: bind off 0-0-3-4-2-2 sts 1 time, then bind off 5 sts every other row 5-5-4-4-4-4 times in total = 40-44-46-48-52-56 sts after all bind offs. Remember BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above.
Work pattern until piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm / 8''-8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½''-9¾'', adjust so that next row is worked from RS with Nepal.

Section 1
Row 1: Slip the first 2 sts loosely over on to right needle, pull yarn behind the 2 sts - READ TIP 1 - see explanation above, work the remaining sts on row, turn piece.
Row 2: Work back but do not work the last 2 sts slipped, turn piece.
Row 3: Slip the first 2 sts loosely over on to right needle, pull yarn behind the 2 sts, work the remaining sts on row, turn piece.
Row 4: Work back but do not work the last 4 sts slipped, turn piece.
Continue like this by working 2 sts less for every other row until 2 rows have been worked over the last 2 sts. Cut the yarn. Then work 1 stripe over all sts with 1st row from RS.

Section 2
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING – WORK SHORT ROWS AND DEC AT THE SAME TIME.
SHORT ROWS:
Row 1: Work until 2 sts remain, turn piece.
Row 2: Work back.
Row 3: Work until 4 sts remain, turn piece.
Row 4: Work back.
Continue like this with 2 sts less for every other row until 2 sts remain on right needle.
DECREASE:
Work 3-3-3-2-2-2 stripes. Then dec at beg of next stripe as follows: K 2 tog, repeat dec every other stripe (= every 4th row) 6-7-8-8-8-10 times in total, then dec 0-1-0-0-0-0 times on next stripes = 34-36-38-40-44-46 sts.

Section 3
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING – WORK SHORT ROWS AND INC AT THE SAME TIME.
SHORT ROWS:
Row 1: Work the first 4 sts, turn piece.
Row 2: Work back over these 4 sts, turn piece.
Row 3: Work the first 6 sts, turn piece.
Row 4: Work back over these 6 sts, turn piece.
Continue like this with 2 sts more for every other row - repeat until 1 stripe has been worked over all sts.
INCREASE:
Work 2 stripes. Then inc at beg of next stripe as follows: Work 2 sts in first st, repeat inc every other stripe (= every 4th row) 6-8-8-8-8-10 times in total = 40-44-46-48-52-56 sts. Cut the yarn.

Section 4
Slip the first 38-42-44-46-50-54 sts on to right needle. Then work as follows:
Row 1 (= RS): Work 2 sts, turn piece.
Row 2: Work back over the 2 sts, turn piece.
Row 3: Slip 2 sts from right needle on to left needle, work the 4 sts, turn piece.
Row 4: Work back over the 4 sts.
Continue like this with 2 sts more for every other row until all sts have been slipped on to same needle and 1 stripe has been worked over all sts.

Bottom part of jacket:
Now work pattern. When piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½'', inc in the side as follows: Work 2 sts in first st from RS 4 times in total every 4 cm / 1½'' = 44-48-50-52-56-60 sts. Work until piece measures 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm / 30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8''-34 5/8'', adjust so that last stripe is with Nepal and loosely bind off with Nepal.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as right front piece but reversed, collar beg from RS, do not dec for buttonholes - yarn change in stripes is done mid front. Work until piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm / 8''-8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½''-9¾'', adjust so that next row is worked from RS with Nepal.

Section 5
SHORT ROWS:
Row 1: Work until 2 sts remain, turn piece.
Row 2: Work back.
Row 3: Work until 4 sts remain, turn piece.
Row 4: Work back.
Continue like this by working 2 sts less for every other row until the last 2 sts have been worked back and forth.
Work one stripe over all sts.

Section 6
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING – WORK SHORT ROWS AND DEC AT THE SAME TIME.
Row 1: Slip the first 2 sts loosely on to right needle, pull yarn behind the 2 sts - REMEMBER TIP 1 - see explanation above, work the remaining sts on row, turn piece.
Row 2: Work back but do not work the last 2 sts slipped, turn piece.
Row 3: Slip the first 2 sts loosely over on to right needle, pull yarn behind the 2 sts, work the remaining sts on row, turn piece.
Row 4: Work back but do not work the last 4 sts, turn piece.
Continue like this with 2 sts less for every other row until 2 sts remain on left needle. Cut the yarn.
DECREASE:
Work 3-3-3-2-2-2 stripes. Then dec at the end of next stripe as follows: K 2 tog, repeat dec every other stripe (= every 4th row) 6-7-8-8-8-10 times in total, then dec 0-1-0-0-0-0 times on next stripes = 34-36-38-40-44-46 sts.

Section 7
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING – WORK SHORT ROWS AND INC AT THE SAME TIME.
The first 32-34-36-38-42-44 sts are on the right needle. Then work as follows:
Row 1: Slip 2 sts from right needle on to left needle, work the 4 sts, turn piece.
Row 2: Work back over the 4 sts.
Row 3: Slip 2 sts from right needle on to left needle, work the 6 sts, turn piece.
Row 4: Work back over the 6 sts.
Continue like this with 2 sts more for every other row until all sts have been slipped on to same needle and 1 stripe has been worked over all sts.
INCREASE:
Work 2 stripes. Then inc at the end of next stripe as follows: Work 2 sts in last st, repeat inc every other stripe (= every 4th row) 6-8-8-8-8-10 times in total = 40-44-46-48-52-56 sts.

Section 8
Row 1: Work the first 2 sts, turn piece.
Row 2: Work back over these 2 sts, turn piece.
Row 3: Work the first 4 sts, turn piece.
Row 4: Work back over these 4 sts, turn piece.
Continue like this with 2 sts more for every other row - repeat until 1 stripe has been worked over all sts.

Bottom part of jacket:
Now work pattern. When piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½'', inc in the side as follows: Work 2 sts in last st from RS 4 times in total every 4 cm / 1½'' = 44-48-50-52-56-60 sts. Work until piece measures 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm / 30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8''-34 5/8'', adjust so that last stripe is with Nepal and loosely bind off with Nepal.

LEFT BACK PIECE:
Work back and forth on circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 in pattern, change yarn in the side, worked top down. Cast on 49-53-53-55-57-61 sts with Nepal. Work 2 rows (1st row = RS). Then cast on at the end of the next 2 rows from RS for neck as follows: 1 st 1 time and 7-7-7-8-8-8 sts 1 time = 57-61-61-64-66-70 sts. When piece measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm / 6¼''-6¾''-7''-7½''-8''-8¼'', bind off sts for sleeve as follows: bind off 0-0-3-4-2-2 sts 1 time, then bind off 5 sts every other row 5-5-4-4-4-4 times in total = 32-36-38-40-44-48 sts.
Work pattern until piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm / 8''-8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½''-9¾'', adjust so that next row is worked from RS with Nepal.

Work Section 1 – see RIGHT FRONT PIECE.

Then work 4-3-4-3-4-3 stripes over all sts. AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st every other stripe at beg of row from RS, and dec 1 st at the end of row from RS. This is done to get the correct angle on piece.

Section 9
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING – WORK SHORT ROWS AND DEC AT THE SAME TIME.
SHORT ROWS:
Row 1: Work until 2 sts remain, turn piece.
Row 2: Work back.
Row 3: Work until 4 sts remain, turn piece.
Row 4: Work back.
Continue like this with 2 sts less for every other row until 2 sts remain on right needle.
DECREASE:
Work 1-0-0-2-0-0 stripes. Then dec at beg of next stripe as follows: K 2 tog, repeat dec every other stripe (= every 4th row) 4-6-6-6-6-8 times in total = 28-30-32-34-38-40 sts.

Section 10
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING – WORK SHORT ROWS AND INC AT THE SAME TIME.
SHORT ROWS:
Row 1: Work the first 4 sts, turn piece.
Row 2: Work back over these 4 sts, turn piece.
Row 3: Work the first 6 sts, turn piece.
Row 4: Work back over these 6 sts, turn piece.
Continue like this with 2 sts more for every other row - repeat until 1 stripe has been worked over all sts.
INCREASE:
Work 2 stripes. Then inc at beg of next stripe as follows: Work 2 sts in first st, repeat inc every other stripe (= every 4th row) 4-6-6-6-6-8 times in total = 32-36-38-40-44-48 sts. Cut the yarn.

Then work 4 stripes over all sts. AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st every other stripe at beg of row from RS, and dec 1 st at the end of row from RS. This is done to get the correct angle on piece. Cut the yarn.

Work Section 4 – see RIGHT FRONT PIECE.

Bottom part of jacket:
Now work pattern. When piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½'', inc in the side as follows: Work 2 sts in first st from RS 4 times in total every 4 cm / 1½'' = 36-40-42-44-48-52 sts. Work until piece measures 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm / 30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8''-34 5/8'', adjust so that last stripe is with Nepal and loosely bind off with Nepal.

RIGHT BACK PIECE:
Cast on and work as left back piece but reversed - change yarn for stripes mid back. Work until piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm / 8''-8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½''-9¾'', adjust so that next row is worked from RS with Nepal.

Work Section 5 – see LEFT FRONT PIECE.

Then work 4-3-4-3-4-3 stripes over all sts. AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st every other stripe at beg of row from RS, and inc 1 st at the end of row from RS. This is done to get the correct angle on piece.

Section 11
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING – WORK SHORT ROWS AND DEC AT THE SAME TIME.
Row 1: Slip the first 2 sts loosely on to right needle, pull yarn behind the 2 sts - REMEMBER TIP 1, work the remaining sts on row, turn piece.
Row 2: Work back but do not work the last 2 sts slipped, turn piece.
Row 3: Slip the first 2 sts loosely on to right needle, pull yarn behind the 2 sts, work the remaining sts on row, turn piece.
Row 4: Work back but do not work the last 4 sts, turn piece.
Continue like this with 2 sts less for every other row until 2 sts remain on right needle. Cut the yarn.
DECREASE:
Work 1-0-0-2-0-0 stripes. Then dec at the end of next stripe as follows: K 2 tog, repeat dec every other stripe (= every 4th row) 4-6-6-6-6-8 times in total = 28-30-32-34-38-40 sts.

Section 12
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING – WORK SHORT ROWS AND INC AT THE SAME TIME.
The first 26-28-30-32-36-38 sts are on the right needle. Then work as follows:
Row 1 (= RS): Slip 2 sts from right needle on to left needle, work the 4 sts, turn piece.
Row 2: Work back over the 4 sts.
Row 3: Slip 2 sts from right needle on to left needle, work the 6 sts, turn piece.
Row 4: Work back over the 6 sts.
Continue like this with 2 sts more for every other row until all sts have been slipped on to same needle and 1 stripe has been worked over all sts.
INCREASE:
Work 2 stripes. Then inc at the end of next stripe as follows: Work 2 sts in last st, repeat inc every other stripe (= every 4th row) 4-6-6-6-6-8 times in total = 32-36-38-40-44-48 sts.

Then work 4 stripes over all sts. AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st every other stripe at beg of row from RS, and inc 1 st at the end of row from RS. This is done to get the correct angle on piece.

Work Section 8 – see LEFT FRONT PIECE.

Bottom part of jacket:
Now work pattern. When piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½'', inc in the side as follows: Work 2 sts in last st 4 times in total every 4 cm / 1½'' = 36-40-42-44-48-52 sts. Work until piece measures 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm / 30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8''-34 5/8'', adjust so that last stripe is with Nepal and loosely bind off with Nepal.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew right back piece to left back piece mid back. Sew shoulder and side seams. Sew the collar tog mid back and sew it to the neckline at the back.

RIGHT CUFF:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Pick up 42-44-46-50-52-54 sts on circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 around the sleeve with Nepal. Piece is worked in pattern. Bind off when piece measures 17-16-16-15-13-11 cm / 6 3/4"-6 1/4"-6 1/4"-6"-5"-4½", adjust to bind off with Nepal.

LEFT CUFF:
Pick up and work as right cuff.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew cuff seams tog. Sew the buttons on to left front piece.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knitting direction
symbols = Section 1-8 - see pattern
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Comments / Questions (60)

country flag Sandra Morgan-Griffiths wrote:

Can I buy a Drops Colour Chart and if so where please Thank You

19.05.2023 - 16:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sandra, we have no DROPS Colour Charts. You can print the yarn info page, alongside the colours of each yarn, by accessing to the specific yarn page and clicking on the button "print".

21.05.2023 - 18:14

country flag Justyna wrote:

Dobry wieczór. Zastanawiam się gdzie popełniam błąd, bo niezależnie od tego jak robię kołnierz, to zawsze wychodzi mi ta sama wersja (a muszę zrobić odwrotność do lewego przodu...). Już próbowałam na wszystkie sposoby i za każdym razem, nawet jak zaczynam na lewej stronie robótki, moja mniejsza część kołnierza jest po tej samej stronie. Więc mam dwa "lewe przody"... Proszę o pomoc bo już nie wiem jak się za to zabrać.

23.03.2023 - 00:11

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Justyno, ważne jest aby rzędy skrócone były przerabiane od środka przodu, czyli z tej strony, z której kołnierz jest dłuższy. De facto te dwie części możesz wykonać tak samo, a następnie kołnierz drugiej strony obrócić (jedna część kołnierza będzie widoczna na prawej stronie, a druga na lewej), aby później z odpowiedniej strony nabrać oczka na ramiona. Pozdrawiamy!

23.03.2023 - 16:23

country flag Sophie wrote:

Bonjour, ce modèle peut il être feutré? Et si oui, quelle taille faut il tricoter pour obtenir une taille S après feutrage. Merci d'avance

16.04.2021 - 11:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sophie, il n'est pas prévu de feutrer la veste terminée. Nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande. Merci de bien vouloir contacter votre magasin, même par mail ou téléphone, pour toute assistance complémentaire - ou éventuellement à un forum spécialisé. Merci pour votre compréhension.

16.04.2021 - 14:43

country flag Carla wrote:

Hola, Nepal va tejido con doble hebra o simple? porque he notado que es mucho mas fino que big delight.

09.06.2020 - 14:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Carla. Ambos hilos pertenecen al mismo grupo de lanas (grupo C) y la chaqueta se trabaja con un hilo.

13.06.2020 - 20:43

country flag Wendy wrote:

Ik ben begonnen om dit model in maat XXL te breien. Maar nog voor deel 1 zou je 52 steken moeten overhouden. Als ik in het patroon tel kom ik uit op 50. Bij 81 steken minder/kant je 31 steken. (Minder 2x1 en 5x1 st, en kant 2x2 en 4x5 st af) M.vr.gr. Wendy

06.11.2019 - 09:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Wendy,

Het patroon is gecontroleerd en er zat inderdaad een fout in de vertaling. Er is nu een correctie gemaakt in het aantal minderingen voor de mouw op het voorpand.

22.11.2019 - 10:57

country flag Ilka wrote:

Hallo, ich habe alle Teile fertig. Verstehe aber nicht, wie der Kragen zusammengenäht werden soll. Wenn ich ihn in der Mitte zusammennähe sieht es komisch aus und es steht dort ja auch"an den rückwärtigen Halsausschnitt nähen." Der ist doch aber schon fest. (ist es richtig, dass bei den Rückenteilen kein Kragen gestrickt wird?) Es ist leider weder durch die Zeichnung noch durch die Bilder zu sehen, da keine richtige Rückseite gezeigt wird...... und irgendwie erklärt es sich mir nicht..

15.09.2019 - 16:48

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ika, die angeschlagenen Maschen für den Kragen für beiden Vorderteile werden zusammengenäht, dann nähen Sie den Kragen (= die kleinste Länge) am Halsausschnitt vom Rückenteil. Viel Spaß beim fertigstellen!

16.09.2019 - 11:18

country flag Ilka Fricke wrote:

Stricke ich bei Abschnitt 1 Vorderteil die 1 R. In der Hin-oder Rückreihe. Wenn ich es wie laut Anleitung str. sind bei mir die verkürzungen auf der falschen Seite. Kann man die Kommentare in meinem Fall "deutsch" ändern? Manche Fragen würden dann evtl. nicht doppelt gestellt. Ich kann z. B. kein norwgisch, spanisch etc. würde aber gerne die Kommentare lesen...

25.07.2019 - 18:21

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ilka, die Kommentare können wir leider nicht übersetzen. - Den Kragen (längere Seite des Kragens) beginnen Sie ja mit einer Rück-Reihe. Die kürzere Seite (die, die Sie ab der Hin-Reihe stricken), liegt in Richtung Seite der Jacke, dort schlagen Sie auch die Maschen für den Ärmel an. Die Abnahmen erfolgen am vorderen Rand der Jacke, das Abketten der Maschen für den Ärmel an der Seite (d.h. ab der Rück-Reihe). Wenn Sie dann Abschnitt 1 ab der Hin-Reihe stricken, werden die Reihen in Richtung Seite der Jacke kürzer als in Richtung vorderer Rand. Gutes Gelingen weiterhin!

27.07.2019 - 09:25

country flag Cecilie Skovbjerg wrote:

Jeg undrer mig over at der anbefales pind 8 til garntyper, der normalt strikkes på pind 5? Er der fejl?

19.07.2019 - 21:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Ceccilie. På denne jakken skal det strikkes løs og derfor større pinner enn det vi vanligvis bruker til Nepal og Big Delight. Men husk å sjekke din strikkefasthet. mvh Drops design

09.09.2019 - 14:58

country flag FEDERICA wrote:

Buonsera, vorrei realizzare questo cappotto con un filato diverso e con un numero di ferri n.4 siccome sono una taglia XXL non vorrei che il filato messo in descrizione e il n.8 di ferri giochi a mio sfavore facendo un cappotto che risultasse per me .... una 4XXL :) Che filato mi consigliate per poter effettuare questo cappotto con i ferri n.4??? Grazie

05.05.2019 - 14:00

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Federica. Se vuole un filato sfumato, può considerare Delight. Ci permettiamo di far presente che la costruzione del capo è molto particolare. Modificare il filato e soprattutto la tensione del lavoro, comporterebbe rivedere interamente le spiegazioni del modello. Le suggeriamo di mettersi in contatto con il suo rivenditore Drops di fiducia per una assistenza più personalizzata. Buon lavoro!

05.05.2019 - 16:18

country flag Ute wrote:

Ich habe ein Rechts-Links-Problem: Wie ist das RECHTE Vorderteil gemeint: rechts, wenn ich es trage oder rechts, so wie ich es auf dem Diagramm sehe (das wäre dann getragen, ja das LINKE Vorderteil. 2. Frage: wird der Kragen NUR in Nepal oder schon abwechseln Nepal-Big Delight gestrickt? Herzlichen Dank sagt Ute

24.04.2019 - 16:18

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ute, Rechte Vorderteil ist gemeint wenn die Jacke getragen wird - der Kragen wird nur mit Nepal gestrickt (siehe 2. Foto). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

25.04.2019 - 09:40