DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 77% Alpaca, 23% Silk |
3.95 $ /25g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 77% Alpaca, 23% Silk 3.95 $ /25g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
All measurements in charts are in cm.
= knit | |
= purl | |
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next round/row, knit or purl the yarn over as shown in the diagram (leaves a hole) |
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= knit 2 together |
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= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Frosted Leaves |
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Knitted sweater in 1 strand DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk or 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with raglan and lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 216-3 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.4 DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced): To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 48 stitches) and divide by number of decreases to be made (e.g. 8) = 6. In this example decrease by knitting each 5th and 6th stitch together. DECREASE TIP-2 (for sleeves): Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased). BINDING-OFF TIP: To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down. The piece is worked with 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk or 2 strands Kid-Silk. NECK: Cast on 72-72-92-92-92-92 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and 1 strand Bruched Alpaca Silk or 2 strands Kid-Silk. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 4 cm = 1½". Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round. The yoke will be measured from this marker. Change to circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 and work the yoke as described below. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! YOKE: On the next round work pattern as follows: Work 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, A.1 (= 21-21-31-31-31-31 stitches, see start-arrow for your size), 2 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.2 (= 11 stitches), 2 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.1 (= 21-21-31-31-31-31 stitches, see start-arrow for your size), 2 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.2 (= 11 stitches) and 1 stitch in stockinette stitch. Continue this pattern; all increases are drawn into the diagrams. 8 stitches are increased every 2nd round. When A.1 and A.2 have been worked 1 time in height, continue with A.3. Work A.3 A over the first 5 stitches, repeat A.3 B until there are 6 stitches left on the row and work A.3 C over the last 6 stitches. Each time A.3 has been worked 1 time in height there is room for 1 more repeat of A.3 B in width. Continue the increases as shown in A.1 and A.2. Increase every 2nd round a total of 25-30-30-30-35-40 times = 272-312-332-332-372-412 stitches. The piece measures approx. 23-27-27-27-32-36 cm = 9"-10⅝"-10⅝"-10⅝"-12½"-14¼" from the marker thread. Now divide the yoke for body and sleeves as follows (continue the pattern as before; you should be on the last round in a repeat of A.3, where all stitches are purled): Work 73-83-93-93-103-113 stitches (= back piece), place the next 63-73-73-73-83-93 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 7 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 73-83-93-93-103-113 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 63-73-73-73-83-93 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve and cast on 7 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve). Body and sleeves are finished separately. Cut the strand. BODY: = 160-180-200-200-220-240 stitches. Start 3 stitches before the 7 new stitches cast on in the side and work A.4 over all stitches; make sure the pattern matches the pattern on the yoke. Continue working until the piece measures 23-21-23-25-22-20 cm = 9"-8¼"-9"-9¾"-8¾"-8" from the division (there is approx. 6 cm = 2⅜" left to finished length; you can try the sweater on and work to desired length). Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 6 cm = 2⅜". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP! The sweater measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26" from the shoulder down. SLEEVES: Place the 63-73-73-73-83-93 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5 mm = US 8 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 7 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 70-80-80-80-90-100 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 7 stitches under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve. Cut the strand and start working 3 stitches before the new stitches under the sleeve and continue the pattern in the round according to A.4; make sure the pattern matches the pattern on the yoke. When the sleeve measures 3 cm = 1⅛" from the division in all sizes, decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this every 3-2-1½-2-1-1 cm = 1⅛"-¾"-½"-¾"-⅜"-⅜" a total of 11-15-15-13-17-21 times = 48-50-50-54-56-58 stitches. The stitches which do not fit into the pattern when decreasing are worked in stockinette stitch. Continue working until the sleeve measures 35-34-31-32-28-25 cm = 13¾"-13⅜"-12¼"-11"-9¾" from the division (there is approx. 4 cm = 1½" left to finished length; you can try the sweater on and work to desired length). NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke. Knit 1 round where you decrease 8 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP-1 = 40-42-42-46-48-50 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6 and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 4 cm = 1½". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember BINDING-OFF TIP! The sleeve measures approx. 39-38-35-36-32-29 cm = 15¼"-15"-13¾"-14¼"-12½"-11⅜" from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (125)
Stéphanie wrote:
Bonjour, Entre A3 et A4, je dois tricoter un rang, en montant 2x7 mailles. Mais je tricote quel point? Un rang endroit? Ou la première ligne du motif de A4, et je monte les 7 mailles entre 2?
07.08.2023 - 01:04DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Stéphanie, lorsque vous tricotez le tour de division (on met les mailles des manches en attente et on monte 7 mailles à leur place), vous montez simplement ces mailles comme dans la photo 11 et 14 de cette leçon, puis coupez le fil pour commencer le tour suivant juste avant ces 7 mailles d'un côté du pull et tricoter ainsi A.4 tout le tour (le motif doit s'aligner au-dessus de l'empiècement). Bon tricot!
07.08.2023 - 11:06Stéphanie wrote:
Bonjour, Merci pour votre réponse précédente! Je bloque malheureusement toujours à A3. J'ai l'impression que si je suis exactement le schéma, il me manquera un morceau des motifs, et ils ne seront plus raccord avec le reste. On démarre le tour sur un raflant, avant le dos, mais sur le schéma, c'est comme si c'était au milieu du dos 🤔
03.08.2023 - 13:02DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Stéphanie, quand A.2 est terminé procédez ainsi (utilisez des marqueurs, c'est plus simple de se repérer - les jetés vont se faire de part et d'autre des 2 m jersey): *augm comme au début de A.2 (= 1 jeté au 1er rang), tric. ensuite les m de A.2 ainsi: A.3A, répétez A.3B et terminez par A.3C, puis augm. comme à la fin de A.2 (= 1 jeté au 1er rang); et continuez ainsi en alignant A.3 A-B-C comme le diag. + les nouvelles m de chaque côté tric. comme au début et à la fin de A.2. Quand ces diag. sont finis, recommencez en reprenant à * (vous tric. davantage de fois le diagramme B et les triangles sont en quinconce). Bon tricot!
03.08.2023 - 14:33Stéphanie wrote:
Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas ce que deviennent les augmentations que l'on fait en A3. Puisque le schéma de A3 ne contient pas d'augmentation. Et si je fais les mêmes augmentations qu'en A1 et A2, ça ne me fait que 8 mailles en plus tous les 2 rangs, et non 30 comme indiqués dans les explications. Merci pour votre aide
29.07.2023 - 13:06DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Stéphanie, quand vous tricotez A.3 vous devez augmenter de chaque côté comme avant (soit 8 mailles tous les 2 tours comme avant). On augmente ainsi 30 fois au total pour le raglan, y compris les augmentations de A.1 et A.2. Bon tricot!
31.07.2023 - 10:04Zemboul wrote:
On ne démarre pas au milieu du dos mais à la jonction dos-manche droite si on veut centrer les dessins....
19.01.2023 - 13:23DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Zemboul, effectivement, on commence par le raglan avant le dos, comme indiqué dans le paragraphe EMPIÈCEMENT - j'ai fait remonté votre remarque à nos stylistes pour que la correction soit faite, merci pour votre retour. Bon tricot!
19.01.2023 - 19:02Merete wrote:
Kan I ikke snart lave opskrifter, der er lettere at forstå? Afsnit 2 om bærestykket i Frosted Leaves sweateren er det rene volapyk! Selv for erfarne strikkere. Og sådan er alle DROPS opskrifter desværre! Formuleringerne er så indforståede, at selv en semi erfaren strikker ikke kan følge med! Gør dog de opskrifter lettere at forstå i stedet for bare at oversætte dem! Videoer til hver enkelt model vil også være en hjælp! Så kan vi alle være med!
08.01.2023 - 19:43Monique wrote:
The instructions are hard to follow. I had worked almost 7 rounds of A3 when I found out something was wrong. I suspect it has to do with the phrase "Continue the increases as shown in A.1 and A..2", which I didn't understand and had skipped. So I had to unravel my work up to the start of A3, which isn't nice for this type of pattern and yarn. It seems to me now that the whole A.3 is nonsense and that I just have to work with A1 and A2, but maybe I am still not getting it. Please clarify.
27.12.2022 - 19:21DROPS Design answered:
Dear Monique, after A.1 and A.2 are done in height for your size continue as follows: increase as at the beg of A.1/A.2 (and work all new stitches as in the diagram), work A.3A, repeat A..3B, end with A.3C then increase as at the end of A.1/A.2 (andf work all new stitches as in the diagram) - you can use markers to let you see better where A.1/A.2/A.3 starts and ends so that the pattern should fit nicely. Happy knitting!
02.01.2023 - 10:32Monique wrote:
Voor mij is het stuk waarin A3 wordt gebreid erg onduidelijk. Zo lees ik niets over de begrenzing tussen voor/achterpand en de mouwen. Ik neem aan dat je niet de hele toer A3 moet breien, maar ook vier keer de twee rechte steken tussendoor moet breien. Hoe je vervolgens na 1 keer in de hoogte zowel A1, A2 en A3 moet breien snap ik niets van en ik ben niet de enige zo te zien. Graag een duidelijke instructie hiervoor want ik dreig nu vast te lopen
26.12.2022 - 17:26DROPS Design answered:
Dag Monique,
Onder de paragraaf PAS staat beschreven waar je de steken in tricotsteek breit. Nadat je klaar bent met A.2 en A.1 in de hoogte, brei je A.3 daarboven, maar je maakt wel de meerderingen zoals in A.1 en A.2 en je houdt inderdaad de 2 steken in tricotsteek aan.
27.12.2022 - 20:57Birgit Hainzlmayr wrote:
Ich verstehe nicht, wie ich, wenn ich das Muster A3 stricke, gleichzeitig Zunahmen wie bei A1 und A2 machen soll. Entweder stricke ich doch A1/A2 oder A3? Wo werden die Zunahmen gestrickt? Wie kann ich plötzlich bei A3B einen Rapport mehr in der Breite stricken?
19.12.2022 - 18:54DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Hainzlmayr, nehmen Sie zuerst wie im A.1/A.2 zu dann stricken Sie A.3 A, B und C und nach A.3C nehmen Sie wie am Ende A.1/A.2 zu, die neuen Maschen stricken Sie wie am Anfang und am Ende A.1/A.2 so haben Sie jeweils ein neues Muster in der Breite. Viel Spaß beim stricken !
20.12.2022 - 08:11Britt wrote:
Jeg syntes det er en super fin model, men opskriften er for utydelig, hvilket man også kan se på alle de spørgsmål der er stillet om det samme problem i skiftet mellem A1/A2 til A3. Det burde skæres mere ud i pap, for at forstå
12.11.2022 - 12:14Britt wrote:
Når man er færdig med A1 engang i højden i str. XL og skal strikke A3, skal udtagningerne der er noteret i A1 så ikke laves? Og det samme når A2 er strikket en gang som tegningen. Hvad skal maskeantal være når A2 er stikket en gang i højden? Hvis udtagningerne skal laves, er mønster og udtagninger jo det samme hele vejen???
12.11.2022 - 12:11DROPS Design answered:
Hej Britt, Når A.1 og A.2 er strikket 1 gang i høyden, strikkes det videre med A.3. Du starter omgangen med A.3a (over 5 masker), så strikker du A.3b til det gjenstår 6 masker på omgangen, strikk A.3c. Du fortsetter også med økningene som før (som vist i A.1 og A.2). mvh DROPS Design
16.11.2022 - 12:21