Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
= K from RS, P from WS | |
= K2 tog | |
= 1 YO between 2 sts | |
= K from WS |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Sweet Pea |
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DROPS jacket with short sleeves and wavy flounces in ”Alpaca” and ”Cotton Viscose”. Size S to XXXL.
DROPS 119-20 |
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PATTERN: See diagram M.1. Diagram shows 1 vertical pattern repeat from RS. GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows. FRONT BAND: Worked in garter st with 2 strands of yarn. At the bottom part of body piece have an extra ball of yarn each side. For neatest result work front bands a little tight. DECREASING TIP (applies to neck and armholes): Dec from RS inside 5 sts. Dec as follows before and after 5 sts: K2 tog. BUTTONHOLES: Make buttonholes on right front band. 1 buttonhole = bind off 3rd front band st from mid front and cast on 1 new st on next row. Make buttonholes when FRONT BAND measures: SIZE S, M and L: 3, 9 and 15 cm / 1⅛", 3½" and 6". SIZE XL, XXL and XXXL: 2, 8, 14 and 20 cm / ¾", 3⅛", 5½" and 8". -------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------------- JACKET: Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. The bottom part of body pieces comprises 4 flounces, layered over one another. FLOUNCE 1: Loosely cast on 216-240-264-288-312-336 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with 1 thread Cotton Viscose. Work first row from WS as follows: K5, K2 tog, * K10, K2 tog *, repeat from *-*, and finish with K5 = 198-220-242-264-286-308 sts. Now work the first 2 rows of M.1. Change to 1 thread Alpaca and continue in M.1 until there are 5 vertical repeats. Work the first 2 rows of M.1 and then work next rows as follows from RS: K 9-12-10-7-11-15 sts, * K2 tog, K 5 sts *, repeat from *-* until 7-12-8-5-9-13 sts remain, K these = 172-192-210-228-248-268 sts, AT THE SAME TIME at the end of row cast on 5 new sts for front band (cast these on with 2 threads Alpaca - see above under FRONT BAND – work the rest of the piece with 1 thread Alpaca). K 1 row from WS (= last row in M.1), cast on 5 new sts at the end of row with 2 threads (= front band the other side) = 182-202-220-238-258-278 sts. Work 5 cm / 2" GARTER ST - see above - finish with 1 row from WS. NOTE! Remember BUTTONHOLES when front band measures 3-3-3-2-2-2 cm / 1⅛"-1⅛"-1⅛"-¾"-¾"-¾" - see above. Cut 1 thread, leave the extra thread for front band in piece. Put flounce aside, it measures approx 12 cm / 4¾". FLOUNCE 2: Like FLOUNCE-1 until there are 172-192-210-228-248-268 sts on needle, do not cast on new sts for front band, but K 1 row on all sts from WS (= last row in M.1). KNITTING FLOUNCES TOG: Now place Flounce-2 on top of Flounce-1 and work them tog from RS as follows: Work 5 front band sts in garter st from Flounce-1 (worked with 2 threads), then continue with 1 thread only as follows: K tog 1 st from Flounce-1 with 1 st from Flounce-2, and continue across the row until all sts have been K tog, work the last 5 sts on front band with 2 threads = 182-202-220-238-258-278 sts. Work 5 cm / 2" garter st on all sts (front bands with 2 threads as before) NOTE! Remember buttonholes. Finish with 1 row from WS, cut 1 thread, leave the extra thread for front band in piece. Put flounce aside. FLOUNCE-3: Like Flounce-2, and work Flounce-3 tog with Flounce-2 as described above. Make sure to have the same number of garter st rows after M.1 in each flounce. NOTE! Remember buttonholes. SIZE XL, XXL and XXXL: FLOUNCE- 4: Like Flounce-3. ALL SIZES: LAST FLOUNCE: Like Flounce-3. Work Flounces tog as before, but after K them tog from RS work next row from WS as follows: 5 front band sts as before, K 4-5-4-3-3-3, * K2 tog, K 7-7-8-8-8-8 *, repeat from *-* until 11-12-11-10-10-10 sts remain, work these as follows: K2 tog, K 4-5-4-3-3-3 and 5 front band sts as before = 163-181-199-215-233-251 sts. Piece now measures approx 22-22-22-27-27-27 cm / 8¾"-8¾"-8¾"-10⅝"-10⅝"-10⅝". Insert a marker 43-48-52-56-61-65 sts in from each side (= 77-85-95-103-111-121 sts between markers on back piece). READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! Insert a marker, and now measures piece from here. Continue in GARTER ST with 2 threads on all sts. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 1 cm / ⅜" from marker dec 1 st each side towards mid front for neck - see DECREASING TIP! Repeat the dec on every other row a total of 5-6-6-6-8-7 times and then on every 4th row a total of 8 times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 2-3-4-2-3-4 cm / ¾"-1⅛"-1½"-¾"-1⅛"-1½" from marker bind off 8 sts each side for armhole (= 4 sts each side of marker) and complete front and back pieces separately. LEFT FRONT PIECE: Continue dec for neck, AT THE SAME TIME bind off for armhole at the side on every row from RS – see DECREASING TIP: 1 st 4-7-11-14-17-21 times. When all dec for armhole and neck are complete there are 22-23-23-24-24-25 sts left on shoulder. Bind off when armhole measures approx 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm / 7"-7½"-8"-8¼"-8 ¾"-9" (piece measures a total of approx 42-44-46-50-52-54 cm / 16½"-17¼"-18"-19¾"-20½"-21¼"). RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Like left front piece, but mirrored. BACK PIECE: = 69-77-87-95-103-113 sts. Bind off for armhole each side on every row from RS as described for front piece = 61-63-65-67-69-71 sts left on needle. Continue until armhole measures approx 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm / 6¾"-7"-7½"-8"-8¼"-8¾". Now bind off the middle 17-17-19-19-21-21 sts for neck and complete each shoulder (= 22-23-23-24-24-25 sts) separately. Bind off as described for front piece. SLEEVE: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 50-54-60-66-70-74 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Cotton Viscose. K 2 rows. Change to 2 threads Alpaca. K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME inc 10 sts evenly = 60-64-70-76-80-84 sts. Work garter st until piece measures 2 cm / ¾". Now bind off 3 sts each side for sleeve cap and bind off 1 each side at beg of every row until piece measures 11-12-13-14-15-17 cm / 4⅜"-4¾"-5⅛"-5½"-6"-6¾". Now bind off 3 sts each side 1 time and bind off remaining sts. Piece measures approx 12-13-14-15-16-18 cm / 4¾"-5⅛"-5½"-6"-6¼"-7". ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams. Set in sleeves and sew sleeve seams. Sew buttons on left front band. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogs and 11422 patterns - 11417 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (37)
Mariethe House wrote:
Merci! je comprends maintenant!
04.07.2014 - 17:19Mariethe House wrote:
Aïe! Je ne comprends pas les explications pour l'encolure! l'information générale, dans la rubrique: diminutions, me dit de diminuer à 5 m des bords :2m ensemble 5m et ensuite 2m ensemble. ça, c'est clair!Mais quand je me reporte au paragraphe: LIRE ATTENTIVEMENT LA SUITE AVANT DE CONTINUER,Il est dit de placer un marqueur et de mesurer à partir de ce marqueur! Là je ne comprends pas! Où faut-il placer le marqueur?
04.07.2014 - 12:42DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme House, Le marqueur se place quand on a tricoté les derniers volants ensembles, l'ouvrage mesure 22 cm en taille S, on a 163 m et 2 marqueurs à 43 m de chaque côté. Ce nouveau marqueur est un repère pour la hauteur cette fois. Bon tricot!
04.07.2014 - 17:04Mariethe House wrote:
Bonjour. Y-a-t-il 4 volants pour toutes les tailles?Je viens de remarquer ça:TAILLE XL, XXL et XXXL : 4ème VOLANT : Comme pour le 3ème volant.Pouvez-vous me donner des explications pour la taille S... COmbien y a t il de volants en tout pour cette taille là en particulier? Merci.
20.06.2014 - 21:32DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme House, effectivement, le 4ème volant ne concerne que les 3 dernières tailles, dans les 3 premières, il n'y a que 3 volants. Bon tricot!
21.06.2014 - 09:45Karen wrote:
Absolutely beautiful and wonderfully feminine!
10.07.2013 - 16:51Beth wrote:
Is it possible to make this longer as I do't wear the short things & love it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Beth
13.06.2011 - 23:30Pömppö wrote:
Söpöin kaikista näistä malleista!
27.02.2010 - 22:54Jeeranun wrote:
Very beautiful
26.01.2010 - 01:21Ellada wrote:
Very, very nice. I wont it knitt
25.01.2010 - 07:42Gorelych wrote:
Super Model! Gefällt mir sehr gut! Ich hätte gerne Strickmuster! Danke im Voraus!
21.01.2010 - 21:15Irene Almqvist wrote:
Jättesöt,men volangerna kanske ska sitta lite mer under bysten,ser ut som dom börjar mitt på bysten !
21.01.2010 - 12:50