DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS SS24

Northern Dream

DROPS Norwegian sweater for men with snow crystals, headband, hat, gloves and socks in Karisma Superwash.

DROPS 47-1
SWEATER:
Size:
Ladies: S – M – L
Men: (S/M – M/L)
Finished measurements:
Bust: 114-122-130 (122-130) cm / 45"-48"-51½" (48"-51½")
Full length: 60-62-64 (67-70) cm / 23½"-24½"-25¼" (26½"-27½")

Materials: DROPS’s Karisma Superwash from Garnstudio
Alternative1 – (Alternative 2)
550-600-650 (700-750) g color no 01, off white – (color no 37, blue)
200-200-250 (250-300) g color no.16, gray – (color n. 01, off white)
50-50-50 (50-50) g color no 36, grass green for both alternatives
50-50-50 (50-50) g color no 45, olive – (color no 47, green)
50-50-50 (50-50) g color no 49, rust for both alternatives
50-50-50 (50-50) g color no 14 wine red for both alternatives

DROPS circular and double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 and 3.5 mm/US 4 or the size needed to obtain the correct knitting gauge

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Knitting gauge: 21 sts x 28 rows on needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Karisma in stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".

Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*

Pattern: See diagram M.1 – M.6. The diagrams show the pattern from the RS.

BODY
The description in ( ) = male and yarn alternative 2.
The sweater is worked on circular needles and is cut for the armholes afterwards.
Cast on 240-256-272 (256-272) sts on circular needles size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 with off-white (blue) and work 6 cm / 2⅜" Rib.
Change to circular needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work chart M.1.
After M.1 continue with off-white (blue) until the piece measures 31-33-36 (38-41) cm / 12¼"-13"-14¼" (15"-16⅛"). Remember to check the knitting gauge!
Insert a marking thread each side: front and back piece = 120-128-136 (128-136) sts each. Now finish the piece in M.2 – begin at the arrow for appropriate size and work over the front sts, begin at the arrow again and work over the back sts.
At the same time when the piece measures 33-35-36 (39-41) cm / 13"-13¾"-14¼" (15¼"-16⅛") inc 5 sts each side (these sts are the seam sts to be cut up for the armholes at the end and are therefore not included in the pattern).
Continue the pattern. When the piece measures 54-56-58 (61-64) cm / 21¼"-22"-22¾" (24"-25¼") bind off the middle 26-28-30 (30-32) sts at the front for the neck and continue to work back and forth on needle. Then bind off towards the neck on every other row each side: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 1 time.
At the same time when the piece measures 58-60-62 (65-68) cm / 22¾"-23½"-24½" (25½"-26¾") bind off the middle 38-40-42 (42-44) sts at the back for the neck.
On the following row bind off 2 sts towards the neck. Bind off remaining sts after M.2 – the piece measures approx. 60-62-64 (67-70) cm / 23½"-24½"-25¼" (26½"-27½").

Sleeve:
Cast on 54-56-56 (56-58) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 with off-white (blue) and work 10 cm / 4" in Rib – the Rib is folded double and therefore measures 5 cm / 2" when folded.
Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work M.1 and then continue with off-white (blue) - at the same time after the Rib inc 2 sts mid under arm for ladies size S+M and men size S/M + M/L: on every 4th row, for ladies size L: alternate between every 3 and every 4th row, a total of 30-29-31 (31-32) times = 114-114-118 (118-122) sts.
At the same time when the piece measures 36-35-34 (41-40) cm / 14¼"-13¾"-13⅜" (16⅛"-15¾") work M.3 and then 2 rows in off-white – the sleeve measures approx. 50-49-48 (55-54) cm / 19¾"-19¼"-19" (21⅝"-21¼").
Then work 2 cm / ¾" in revere stockinette, for an edge to cover the cut edge on body part, with off-white (blue). Bind off.

Assembly:
Sew a marking thread in the center of the inc sts each side of the body part. Sew 2 seams on a sewing machine around the marking thread 1st seam = ½ st from the marking thread, 2nd seam = ½ st from the 1st seam.
Cut up for armholes.
Sew the shoulder seam. Pick up approx. 100-106 sts around the neck on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 in gray (blue) and work 1 round of stockinette sts and then 6 cm / 2⅜" in Rib, bind off and fold double towards the WS and sew.
Sew the sleeves to the body from the RS as follows: Alternate between 1 st in the last row on the sleeve before edge then 1 st in the body part after the machine sewn seam. Turn the sweater and sew the edge from the sleeves over the cut edges on the body part.
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HEADBAND:
Size: Ladies (Men)

Materials: DROPS Karisma Superwash from Garnstudio
50 (50) g color no. 01, off white (color no. 37, blue)
+ a remainder of the pattern colors

DROPS double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1 or the size needed to obtain the correct knitting gauge.

Knitting gauge: 23 sts x 32 rows on needles size 2.5 mm / US 1 with Karisma in pattern knit = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".

Headband:
Description and color suggestions in ( ) = male. Cast on 120 (128) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1 with off white (blue) and work 18 rows stockinette sts, purl 1 round (= folding edge), work chart M.4, Purl 1 round (= folding edge), 2 rounds in off white (blue) and bind off.
Sew the cast on and st on and bind off edge tog, sew in the outermost sts to avoid a chunky seam.
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HAT:
Size: The hat circumference = 46 (50) cm / 18" (19¾")

Materials: DROPS Karisma Superwash from Garnstudio
150 (150) g color n. 01, off white (color n. 37, blue)
+ a remainder of the pattern colors

DROPS circular needles size 3 and 3.5 mm/US 3 and 4 or the size needed to obtain the correct knitting gauge.

Knitting gauge: 21 sts x 28 rows on needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Karisma in stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".

Rib: *K2, P2*, repeat from *-*

Hat:
Cast on 144 (152) sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 with off-white (blue) and work in 15 cm / 6" Rib. Change to needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work M.4.
At the same time bind off 48 (48) sts evenly distributed on the first round = 96 (104) sts. After M.4 continue with off-white (blue) at the same time insert a marker after every 6th (8th) st. On next round K2 tog after each marker.
Repeat dec on every 5th (7th) round until 16 (13) sts left.
Pull a double thread through the remaining sts and sew tight.
Make a small pompom approx 5 cm / 2" in diameter with off-white (blue) and sew it tight to the top of the hat.
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GLOVES:

Size: Ladies (Men)

Materials: DROPS Karisma Superwash from Garnstudio
100 (100) g color no. 01, off white (color no. 37, blue)
+ a remainder of the pattern colors

DROPS double pointed needles size 3 and 3.5 mm/US 3 and 4 or the size needed to obtain the correct knitting gauge.

Knitting gauge: 21 sts x 28 rows on needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Karisma in stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".

Rib: *K2, P2*, repeat from *-*.

Gloves:
Description and color suggestions in ( ) = male.
Cast on 52 (56) sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2or3 with off white (blue) and work 15 cm / 6" Rib - at the same time bind off 8 (8) sts evenly distributed on the last round = 44(48) sts.
Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work M.4 at the same time insert a marker after 22 (24) sts = the top of the hand – put the marker in the 23rd (25th) sts – inc the sts for the thumb each side of this st – the remaining 21 (23) sts = the inside of the hand. Continue to measure the piece from this point onwards!
When the piece measure 1 cm / ⅜" inc 1 st each side of the marker, repeat on every 4th (3rd) round a total of 5 (6) times. Work the inc sts into M.4 as you go along.
When all inc for the thumb are completed put the mid 11 sts over the thumb on a thread. Cast on 1 new st over the sts on the thread = 44 (59) sts. After M.4 work with off-white (blue) in stockinette sts. Continue until the piece measure 10 (11) cm / 4" (4½").
Now work the fingers as follows:

Little finger: Pick up 4 (6) sts from the top of the hand and 4 (5) sts from the inside of the hand and cast on 1 new st towards the third finger = 9 (12) sts. Work 5 (6) cm / 2" (2½") with off-white (blue) in stockinette sts. On the following round K2 tog around, and pull a double thread through the remaining sts.
Work 3 rounds over the remaining sts of the glove before continuing with the other fingers.

Ring finger: Pick up 6 (6) sts from the top of the hand and 6 (7) sts from the inside of the hand and cast on 1 new sts towards the little finger and 1 st towards the middle finger = 14 (15) sts. Work 6 (7) cm / 2½" (2¾") with off-white (blue) in stockinette sts. On the following round K2 tog around, and pull a double thread through the remaining sts.

Middle finger: As ring finger but work 7 (8) cm / 2¾" (3") of stockinette sts with off-white (blue)

Index finger: Pick up 6 (6) sts from the top of the hand and 6 (7) sts from the inside of the hand and cast on 1 new sts towards the middle finger = 13 (14) sts. Work as ring finger.

Thumb: Pick up 14 (16) sts (incl. the sts on the thread) around the thump and work 6 (6.5) cm / 2¼" (2½") with off-white (blue) in stockinette sts. Bind off as done for the ring finger. Sew a small stitch in between each finger.

Work another glove but with the thumb at the opposite side.
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SOCKS:

Size: European shoe size 38-41 (41-44)
Size:
US: 7½/9½ - 10/12
EU: 38/40 - 41/44
Length: 58 (65) cm / 22¾" (25½"). The foot 23 (26) cm / 9" (10¼")

Materials: DROPS Karisma Superwash from Garnstudio
350 (350) g color no. 01, off white (color no. 37, blue)

DROPS double pointed needles size 2.5 and 3 mm/US 1 and 2 or the size needed to obtain the correct knitting gauge.

Knitting gauge: 22 sts x 30 rows on needles size 3 mm / US 2 with Karisma in stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".

Rib: *K2, P2*, repeat from *-*

Dec. for heel (the heel is worked in stockinette sts throughout):
1st row (= RS): Work until 8 (9) sts left on row, slip a st as if to knit, K1, psso, turn
2nd row (= WS): Work until 8 (9) sts left on row, slip a st as if to purl, P1, psso, turn
3rd row (= RS): Work until 7 (8) sts left, slip a st as if to knit, K1, psso, turn
4th row (= WS): Work until 7 (8) sts left, slip a st as if to purl, P1, psso, turn
5th row (= RS): Work until 6 (7) sts left, slip a st as if to knit, K1, psso, turn
6th row (= WS): Work until 6 (7) sts left, slip a st as if to purl, P1, psso, turn
7th row (= RS): Work until 5 (6) sts left, slip a st as if to knit, K1, psso, turn
8th row (= WS): Work until 5 (6) sts left, slip a st as if to purl, P1, psso, turn.
Continue with 1 st less before each turn until 12 (14) sts remaining .

Socks:
Description and color suggestions in ( ) = male.
Cast on 72 (80) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1 with off white (blue) and work 14 (16) cm / 5½" (6¼") in Rib.
Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2 and work 1 round of stockinette sts - at the same time inc 0 (4) sts evenly distributed on round = 72-(84) sts.
Then work 15 (21) sts of M.5, M.6, 15 (21) sts of M.7 and 1 st mid back (is worked in garter sts throughout) until the piece measures 30 (32) cm / 11¾" (12½").
Then shape the sock as follows: Before the st mid back: Slip a st as if to knit, K1, psso, and after the st mid back: K2 tog. Repeat dec on every 5th (4th) round a total of 12 (16) times = 48 (52) st.
When the piece measures 50 (56) cm / 19¾"-22" put the mid front 24 (26) sts (= the foot) on a thread and continue in stockinette sts back and forth.
Work 5 (6) cm / 2" (2½") of stockinette sts (heel) over the middle back 24 (26) sts and then dec for the heel (see explanation above).
After heel pick up 12 (13) sts each side of the heel and put all sts on the same needle = 60 (66) sts.
Continue to dec as follows: On every other row K tog the first and the last 2 sts of the top 24 (26) sts a total of 6 times = 48 (54) sts.
Continue in stockinette sts until the foot measures approx. 19 (21.5) cm / 7½" (8½"). Insert a marker each side of the foot and bind off for the toe each side of the markers as follows: On every other round K2 tog before and after each marker a total of 3 times = 36 (42) sts. Then on every round a total of 7 (9) times = 8 (6) sts. Pull yarn through rem sts and pull together tight. Fasten off

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = off-white stockinette sts (ladies) /blue stockinette sts (men)
symbols = gray (ladies)/off white (men)
symbols = grass green (ladies) / men)
symbols = olive (ladies) /green (men)
symbols = rust (ladies / men)
symbols = wine red (ladies, men)
symbols = off white purl sts (ladies) / blue purl sts (men)
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (16)

country flag Colton Brooks wrote:

Hello! Do you have this pattern in a larger size? I’m afraid the M/L might be too snug for me but would LOVE to make this gorgeous jumper. Also, what yarns do you recommend to substitute for the discontinued colors?

27.12.2022 - 05:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Brook, we only have these sizes available for this pattern, but at this time the jumpers had some ease fitting - check measurement chart - for any assistance choosing the best matching colour, you are welcome to contact your DROPS store, they will help you even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

02.01.2023 - 09:46

country flag Lotta Hansson wrote:

Hvor gammelt er dette mønsteret? Årsaker at jeg lurer er at jeg har strikket den da den kom, men klarer ikke å huske når den kom. Nå har min datter arvet den.

08.06.2022 - 22:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lotta, kan det være midten af 90erne.... :)

10.06.2022 - 08:29

country flag Anita Francois wrote:

Tres joli modele mais pas de colories de laines correspondantes pourquoi nous faire rever

26.03.2022 - 19:21

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme François, ce modèle a été publié il y a de nombreuses années, les nuanciers ont été actualisés depuis, n'hésitez pas à demander conseil à votre magasin pour toute assistance au choix des couleurs, ils pourront vous aider, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

28.03.2022 - 10:41

country flag Kaisa wrote:

Tarvitsen apua hihan tekoon nainen L-koossa. Kuinka monta silmukkaa tulee lisätä aina yhteen kerrokseen?

27.12.2021 - 21:37

DROPS Design answered:

Lisäykset tehdään vuorotellen joka 3. ja joka 4. kerros. Jokaisella lisäyskerroksella lisätään 2 silmukkaa. Lisäykset toistetaan yhteensä 31 kertaa.

20.01.2022 - 17:45

country flag Naja wrote:

Er mængden af garn der er angivet i starten af opskriften(under alt 1 og alt 2) for hele sættet, eller kun til sweateren?

27.04.2021 - 12:10

country flag My wrote:

Hej, jag håller på att sticks vantarna och har kommit till den delen där jag ska sticka M.4 men jag kan inte hitta det diagrammet, och jag undrar vart det finns?

05.09.2020 - 09:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hei My. Her manglet det en markering på et diagram hvor M.4 skulle være. Dette er nå oppdatert, takk for at du gjorde oss oppmerksom på dette. mvh DROPS design

07.09.2020 - 11:51

country flag Kirsti Al-Janabi wrote:

Aion tehdä nämä miehelleni ja minulle. Nimiehdotus upeille neuleille: Kuurankukat.

17.07.2017 - 22:45

country flag Ria Schulte wrote:

Bij de sok ik kan niet vinden of ik de bovenvoet recht moet breien of in patroon ...zou u me dat kunnen zeggen?

06.01.2016 - 22:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Ria. Je breit de bovenvoet verder in patroon tot 19 (21,5) cm, de laatste stuk met de minderingen brei je in tricotst.

07.01.2016 - 14:21

country flag Magotte wrote:

Bonjour, J'ai fait les 2 modèles , femme en S et homme en XL. Ils sont superbes! mes enfants vont être les + beaux! mais à vrai dire cela a été un peu difficile surtout le modèle homme en XL, le bleu marine, c'est pas top pour tricoter le soir. Mais le rendu est splendide. je conseille ces modèles

29.10.2015 - 17:22

Kam wrote:

Hi there, I'm currently knitting the "body" section of the sweater for a lady, size L, and i am currently stuck on understanding the M.2 diagram. Am I to start knitting the first row on the column indicated by the arrow and knit till I reach the marker? Then repeat that for the back piece? Does that mean that I need to do the same thing for the rest of the M.2 diagram? Hope you understand my question, Kam

14.10.2015 - 15:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kam, start diagram M.2 by the arrow and work the last sts (read from the right towards the left every round), then repeat M.2 from 1st st as many times as necessary to the marker, then start from marker again by the arrow and repeat M.2 to the beg of round. Happy knitting!

14.10.2015 - 17:24