DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
 75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 101.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24
  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Cardigans
  4. Basic
  5. DROPS
  6. 249
  7. 14

Irish Morning

Knitted oversized jacket in DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down in stockinette stitch with European shoulder / diagonal shoulder, stripes, V-neck and I-Cord. Size XS – XXL.

DROPS 249-14
DROPS design: Pattern ks-228
Yarn group A +A + A + A
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SIZE:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 102-108-116-124-136-144 cm = 40"-42½"-45¾"-48¾"-53½"-56½"
Full length: 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm = 21⅝"-22½"-23¼"-24"-24¾"-25½"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

YARN:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-125-150-150-175-175 g color 34, sage green
100-100-125-125-125-150 g color 01, off white
75-100-100-100-100-125 g color 47, pistachio ice cream
75-75-75-75-100-100 g color 45, soft mint

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTON NO 522: 4 pieces for all sizes

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM = US 10.75: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16" and 32".
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9: Length: 80 cm = 32"
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 MM = US 10.75
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32" in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
13 stitches in width and 16 rows vertically in stockinette stitch and 4 strands = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jackets & Cardigans Basic Cardigansassembly free color gradient colorwork european shoulder oversized stocking stitch stripes top down v-neck
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
 75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 101.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Comments (12)

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP-1 (from right side):
Increase towards the left:
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from row below, pick up yarn from the front and knit stitch in back loop of stitch.
Increase towards the right:
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from row below, pick up yarn from the back and knit stitch in front loop of stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2 (from wrong side):
Increase towards the left:
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from row below, pick up yarn from the back and purl stitch in front loop of stitch.
Increase towards the right:
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from row below, pick up yarn from the front and purl stitch in back loop of stitch.

LEFT BAND WITH I-CORD:
RIGHT SIDE:
Slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece, knit 1 and work 5 stitches in garter stitch.
WRONG SIDE:
5 stitches in garter stitch, slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece, knit 1.

RIGHT BAND WITH I-CORD:
RIGHT SIDE:
Work 5 stitches in garter stitch, slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece, knit 1.
WRONG SIDE:
Slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece, knit 1, work 5 stitches in garter stitch.

STRIPES:
Then work stripes as follows:
16-20-20-24-26-30 rows on back piece / 14-16-16-18-22-24 rows on front pieces / 12 rows on sleeves with 4 strands color off white.
2 rows with 3 strands color off white + 1 strand color soft mint
4 rows with 3 strands color soft mint + 1 strand color off white
2 rows with 2 strands color off white + 2 strands color soft mint
2 rows with 1 strand color off white + 2 strands color soft mint + 1 strand color sage green
4 rows with 4 strands color soft mint
2 rows with 1 strand color pistachio ice cream + 2 strands color soft mint + 1 strand color off white
6 rows with 2 strands color pistachio ice cream + 2 strands color soft mint
2 rows with 1 strand color soft mint + 3 strands color pistachio ice cream
6 rows with 4 strands color pistachio ice cream
4 rows with 2 strands color off white + 2 strands color pistachio ice cream
2 rows with 3 strands color pistachio ice cream + 1 strand color sage green
4 rows with 1 color sage green + 1 strand color off white + 1 strand color pistachio ice cream + 1 strand color soft mint
6 rows with 3 strands color off white + 1 strand color sage green
2 rows with 2 strands color sage green + 1 strand color off white + 1 strand color soft mint
4 rows with 1 strand color sage green + 1 strand color off white + 1 strand color pistachio ice cream + 1 strand color soft mint
4 rows with 2 strands color sage green + 1 strand color off white + 1 strand color pistachio ice cream
4 rows with 2 strands color sage green + 2 strands color pistachio ice cream
4 rows with 3 strands color sage green + 1 strand color pistachio ice cream
Work until finished measurements with 4 strands color sage green

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 4 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together, slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece, knit 1. On next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to make a hole.
Decrease for first buttonhole 1 cm = ⅜" after last increase for V-neck, then decrease for the next 3 buttonholes approx. 8½-9-9-10-9½-10 cm = 3¼"-3½"-3½"-4"-3 5/9"-4" apart. Decrease for last buttonhole in transition between stockinette stich and rib.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
In this pattern long and short needles have been used, begin with fitting length and switch as needed.
Begin by casting on stitches in the back of neck. Then work back piece downwards while at the same time increasing in each side of piece until number of stitches for shoulder width is reached. Back piece has a slight diagonal shoulder. Then work down to armholes. Now put back piece aside and work the front pieces.
Begin front pieces by working a loose band then picking up stitches along one shoulder from back piece. Work downwards to armhole while at the same time increasing towards the neck. Repeat on the other shoulder. At the armholes slip front piece and back piece on to same circular needle, and work the body downwards back and forth on circular needle. Pick up stitches for sleeves around the armholes. First work back and forth with short rows to form a sleeve cap. Then work sleeves downwards in the round on needle. Sew the loose bands to cast-on edge at the back of neck.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 22-22-24-24-26-26 stitches on circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75 with 4 strands in color off white.
Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work STRIPES - read explanation above.

Read INCREASE TIP-1 and work next row from right side as follows: Knit 3, increase towards the left, knit until 3 stitches remain, increase towards the right, knit 3.
Read INCREASE TIP-2 and work next row from wrong side as follows: Purl 3, increase towards the left, purl until 3 stitches remain, increase towards the right, purl 3.

Continue like this and increase the same way from both right side and wrong side 18-20-20-22-24-26 times in total. After last increase there are 58-62-64-68-74-78 stitches on needle. Insert 1 marker in the side. Now measure piece from here! Work stockinette stitch back and forth until piece measures 11-12-12-13-13-14 cm = 4⅜"-4¾"-4¾"-5⅛"-5⅛"-5½", measured along the edge of armhole. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!

Work next row as follows from right side: Knit 3, increase towards the left, work until 3 stitches remain, increase towards the right, knit 3 – remember INCREASE TIP-1.
Increase like this on every row from right side 2-2-3-3-3-3 times in total = 62-66-70-74-80-84 stitches. Work until piece measures 14-15-16-17-17-18 cm = 5½"-6"-6¼"-6¾"-6¾"-7", measured along armhole. Back piece measures approx. 25-28-29-31-32-34 cm = 9¾"-11"-11⅜"-12¼"-12½"-13⅜" in total from cast-on edge, finish with a row from right side. Cut the yarn, slip stitches on a thread or stitch holder, and work bands and front pieces as explained below.

LEFT BAND:
Cast on 7 stitches on circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75 with 4 strands in color off white.
Work LEFT BAND WITH I-CORD - read explanation above. Continue until band measures 8-8-9-9-9-9 cm = 3⅛"-3⅛"-3½"-3½"-3½"-3½", finish with a row from wrong side, then continue as explained below left front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work from right side over the 7 band stitches, then pick up 18-20-20-22-24-26 stitches inside outermost stitch along left shoulder on back piece (i.e. pick up 1 stitch in every row from edge at the top of back piece, see D on chart) = 25-27-27-29-31-33 stitches. All length measurements on front piece are done from here. Work stockinette stitch with 7 band stitches towards mid front and STRIPES - remember explanation above. When piece measures 7 cm = 2¾", increase stitches towards the neck. Increase as follows from right side: Work 8 stitches, increase towards the left, work the rest of row - remember INCREASE TIP-1. Increase 1 stitch every other row 9 times in total, then on every 4th row 2-2-3-3-4-4 times in total.

AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 21-22-22-23-25-26 cm = 8¼"-8¾"-8¾"-9"-9¾"-10¼", work next row as follows from right side: 7 band stitches as before, work until 3 stitches remain, increase towards the right, knit 3 – remember INCREASE TIP-1.

Increase like this on every row from right side 2-2-3-3-3-3 times in total = 38-40-42-44-47-49 stitches. Continue stockinette stitch and band stitches as before until piece measures 24-25-26-27-29-30 cm = 9½"-9¾"-10¼"-10⅝"-11⅜"-11¾", slip stitches on a thread or needle, make sure that last row worked is from right side, and to finish on same stripes as back piece. Fasten off. Then work right front piece as explained below.

RIGHT BAND:
Cast on 7 stitches on circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75 with 4 strands in color off white.
Work RIGHT BAND WITH I-CORD - read explanation above. Continue until band measures 9-9-10-10-11-11 cm = 3½"-3½"-4"-4"-4⅜"-4⅜", finish with a row from wrong side, then continue as explained below right front piece. Fasten off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Pick up 18-20-20-22-24-26 stitches with 4 strands in color off white inside outermost stitch along right shoulder on back piece (i.e. pick up 1 stitch in every row from edge at the top of back piece, see E on chart), then work the 7 band stitches on to row = 25-27-27-29-31-33 stitches. All length measurements on front piece are done from here. Work stockinette stitch with 7 band stitches towards mid front and stripes. When piece measures 7 cm = 2¾", increase stitches towards the neck. Increase as follows from right side. Work until 8 stitches remain, increase towards the right, work 8 stitches as before – remember INCREASE TIP-1. Increase 1 stitch every other row 9 times in total, then on every 4th row 2-2-3-3-4-4 times in total. Decrease for BUTTONHOLES - read explanation above.

AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 21-22-22-23-25-26 cm = 8¼"-8¾"-8¾"-9"-9¾"-10¼", work next row as follows from right side: Work 3 stitches, increase towards the left, work the rest of row - remember INCREASE TIP-1.Increase like this on every row from right side 2-2-3-3-3-3 times in total = 38-40-42-44-47-49 stitches. Continue stockinette stitch and band stitches as before until piece measures 24-25-26-27-29-30 cm = 9½"-9¾"-10¼"-10⅝"-11⅜"-11¾", make sure that last row worked is from right side, and to finish on same stripes as back piece and left front piece.

Work next row as follows – from wrong side: Work over the 38-40-42-44-47-49 stitches from right front piece, cast on 4-4-6-6-8-10 new stitches at the end of this row, work from wrong side over the 62-66-70-74-80-84 stitches on back piece, cast on 4-4-6-6-8-10 new stitches, work over the 38-40-42-44-47-49 stitches from left front piece.

BODY:
= 146-154-166-174-190-202 stitches. Continue back and forth with stockinette stitch and stripes.
Work until piece measures 49-51-53-55-57-59 cm = 19¼"-20"-21"-21⅝"-22½"-23¼", measured from where stitches were picked up for front pieces. Work 1 row from right side while increasing 22-22-22-26-26-30 stitches evenly (do not increase over bands) = 168-176-188-200-216-232 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8. Work rib as follows – from wrong side: 7 band stitches as before, * knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 9 stitches remain, purl 2 and 7 band stitches as before. Continue rib like this for 6 cm = 2⅜". Bind off. Jacket measures approx. 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm = 21⅝"-22½"-23¼"-24"-24¾"-25½", measured from the top point on shoulder.

SLEEVES:
Place piece flat and insert 1 marker at the top of armhole (NOTE! It is not where stitches were picked up for front piece but approx. 5-6 cm = 2"-2⅜" down on front piece = mid on top of shoulder).
Use circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75 and 4 strands in color off white and work STRIPES - remember explanation above, begin in the middle of the new stitches cast on under sleeve, and pick up 56-58-62-66-70-74 stitches around the armhole - adjust to pick up same number of stitches on each side of marker along armhole. Now work stockinette stitch back and forth with short rows over sleeve cap, this is done to get a better shape on sleeve. Begin mid under sleeve.

1st row (right side): work 7-7-7-8-8-9 stitches past marker, turn
2nd row (wrong side): work 7-7-7-8-8-9 stitches past marker, turn.
3rd row (right side): 6-6-5-5-4-4 stitches past where the previous turn was, turn
4th row (wrong side): work 6-6-5-5-4-4 stitches past where the previous turn was, turn

Repeat 3rd and 4th row until 25-25-27-28-28-29 stitches have been worked past marker mid on top of sleeve (4-4-5-5-6-6 turn have been done in each side). Work from right side until beginning of round (mid under sleeve). Insert 1 marker thread here, this is used when decreasing stitches under sleeve. Move marker thread upwards when working.

Continue working in the round in stockinette stitch over all stitches. When sleeve measures 7-7-8-8-9-10 cm = 2¾"-2¾"-3⅛"-3⅛"-3½"-4" from where stitches were picked up (all length measurements are done mid on top of sleeve), decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease every other round 2-2-3-3-4-4 times, then decrease every 4½-4-4-3-2½-2-1½ cm = 1⅝"-1½"-1½"-1⅛"-1"-¾"-½" 8-8-8-10-10-11 times, 10-11-11-13-14-15 times in total = 36-38-40-40-42-44 stitches. Continue to work until sleeve measures 46-45-46-45-44-43 cm = 18"-17¾"-18"-17¾"-17¼"-17". 6 cm = 2⅜" remain until finished measurements. Try the jacket and work to desired length before rib. Knit 1 round while increasing 8-6-8-8-10-8 stitches evenly = 44-44-48-48-52-52 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 5.5 MM = US 9. Work rib (knit 2/purl 2) for 6 cm = 2⅜". Bind off. Sleeve measures approx. 52-51-52-51-50-49 cm = 20½"-20"-20½"-20"-19¾"-19¼".

ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons on to left front piece. Sew the loose bands together mid back, and sew on to cast-on edge at the back of neck.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = pick up stitches for left shoulder at the front (d) along left shoulder at the back (D), pick up stitches for right shoulder at the front (e) along right shoulder back (E)
symbols = knitting direction
diagram
diagram
© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Charline wrote:

Bonjour ! Les explications disent que tout le modèle se tricote en point mousse, mais sur la photo le gilet semble être tricoté en jersey (dans l'explication en anglais aussi il est mentionné "garter stitch"). Je voudrais m'assurer qu'il s'agit bien ou non d'un jersey avant de me lancer 🙌

04.04.2024 - 22:13

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Charline, le gilet se tricote effectivement en jersey avec la bordure des devants. au point mousse (raison pour laquelle il est expliqué au début comment tricoter du point mousse). Bon tricot!

05.04.2024 - 08:16

country flag Isabel wrote:

Cardigan bosque

22.01.2024 - 00:29

country flag Paulina Krol wrote:

Morning grass

20.01.2024 - 08:09

country flag Karen wrote:

Pine Breezes

20.01.2024 - 04:39

country flag Jeyagowri Ravichandran wrote:

Emerald Lines Cardigan

19.01.2024 - 15:09

country flag Randi Kristine wrote:

Spring Forest

19.01.2024 - 13:31

country flag Ana wrote:

Cloudberry dreams

18.01.2024 - 23:45

country flag Ms K wrote:

Verdant Horizons

18.01.2024 - 23:44

country flag Sylvie wrote:

Arc en ciel

18.01.2024 - 20:22

country flag Michèle wrote:

Printemps

18.01.2024 - 16:19

Irish Morning



Knitted oversized jacket in DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down in stockinette stitch with European shoulder / diagonal shoulder, stripes, V-neck and I-Cord. Size XS – XXL.

DROPS 249-14
DROPS design: Pattern ks-228
Yarn group A +A + A + A
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SIZE:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 102-108-116-124-136-144 cm = 40"-42½"-45¾"-48¾"-53½"-56½"
Full length: 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm = 21⅝"-22½"-23¼"-24"-24¾"-25½"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

YARN:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-125-150-150-175-175 g color 34, sage green
100-100-125-125-125-150 g color 01, off white
75-100-100-100-100-125 g color 47, pistachio ice cream
75-75-75-75-100-100 g color 45, soft mint

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTON NO 522: 4 pieces for all sizes

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM = US 10.75: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16" and 32".
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9: Length: 80 cm = 32"
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 MM = US 10.75
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32" in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
13 stitches in width and 16 rows vertically in stockinette stitch and 4 strands = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to smaller needles.

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP-1 (from right side):
Increase towards the left:
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from row below, pick up yarn from the front and knit stitch in back loop of stitch.
Increase towards the right:
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from row below, pick up yarn from the back and knit stitch in front loop of stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2 (from wrong side):
Increase towards the left:
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from row below, pick up yarn from the back and purl stitch in front loop of stitch.
Increase towards the right:
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from row below, pick up yarn from the front and purl stitch in back loop of stitch.

LEFT BAND WITH I-CORD:
RIGHT SIDE:
Slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece, knit 1 and work 5 stitches in garter stitch.
WRONG SIDE:
5 stitches in garter stitch, slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece, knit 1.

RIGHT BAND WITH I-CORD:
RIGHT SIDE:
Work 5 stitches in garter stitch, slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece, knit 1.
WRONG SIDE:
Slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece, knit 1, work 5 stitches in garter stitch.

STRIPES:
Then work stripes as follows:
16-20-20-24-26-30 rows on back piece / 14-16-16-18-22-24 rows on front pieces / 12 rows on sleeves with 4 strands color off white.
2 rows with 3 strands color off white + 1 strand color soft mint
4 rows with 3 strands color soft mint + 1 strand color off white
2 rows with 2 strands color off white + 2 strands color soft mint
2 rows with 1 strand color off white + 2 strands color soft mint + 1 strand color sage green
4 rows with 4 strands color soft mint
2 rows with 1 strand color pistachio ice cream + 2 strands color soft mint + 1 strand color off white
6 rows with 2 strands color pistachio ice cream + 2 strands color soft mint
2 rows with 1 strand color soft mint + 3 strands color pistachio ice cream
6 rows with 4 strands color pistachio ice cream
4 rows with 2 strands color off white + 2 strands color pistachio ice cream
2 rows with 3 strands color pistachio ice cream + 1 strand color sage green
4 rows with 1 color sage green + 1 strand color off white + 1 strand color pistachio ice cream + 1 strand color soft mint
6 rows with 3 strands color off white + 1 strand color sage green
2 rows with 2 strands color sage green + 1 strand color off white + 1 strand color soft mint
4 rows with 1 strand color sage green + 1 strand color off white + 1 strand color pistachio ice cream + 1 strand color soft mint
4 rows with 2 strands color sage green + 1 strand color off white + 1 strand color pistachio ice cream
4 rows with 2 strands color sage green + 2 strands color pistachio ice cream
4 rows with 3 strands color sage green + 1 strand color pistachio ice cream
Work until finished measurements with 4 strands color sage green

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 4 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together, slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece, knit 1. On next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to make a hole.
Decrease for first buttonhole 1 cm = ⅜" after last increase for V-neck, then decrease for the next 3 buttonholes approx. 8½-9-9-10-9½-10 cm = 3¼"-3½"-3½"-4"-3 5/9"-4" apart. Decrease for last buttonhole in transition between stockinette stich and rib.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
In this pattern long and short needles have been used, begin with fitting length and switch as needed.
Begin by casting on stitches in the back of neck. Then work back piece downwards while at the same time increasing in each side of piece until number of stitches for shoulder width is reached. Back piece has a slight diagonal shoulder. Then work down to armholes. Now put back piece aside and work the front pieces.
Begin front pieces by working a loose band then picking up stitches along one shoulder from back piece. Work downwards to armhole while at the same time increasing towards the neck. Repeat on the other shoulder. At the armholes slip front piece and back piece on to same circular needle, and work the body downwards back and forth on circular needle. Pick up stitches for sleeves around the armholes. First work back and forth with short rows to form a sleeve cap. Then work sleeves downwards in the round on needle. Sew the loose bands to cast-on edge at the back of neck.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 22-22-24-24-26-26 stitches on circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75 with 4 strands in color off white.
Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work STRIPES - read explanation above.

Read INCREASE TIP-1 and work next row from right side as follows: Knit 3, increase towards the left, knit until 3 stitches remain, increase towards the right, knit 3.
Read INCREASE TIP-2 and work next row from wrong side as follows: Purl 3, increase towards the left, purl until 3 stitches remain, increase towards the right, purl 3.

Continue like this and increase the same way from both right side and wrong side 18-20-20-22-24-26 times in total. After last increase there are 58-62-64-68-74-78 stitches on needle. Insert 1 marker in the side. Now measure piece from here! Work stockinette stitch back and forth until piece measures 11-12-12-13-13-14 cm = 4⅜"-4¾"-4¾"-5⅛"-5⅛"-5½", measured along the edge of armhole. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!

Work next row as follows from right side: Knit 3, increase towards the left, work until 3 stitches remain, increase towards the right, knit 3 – remember INCREASE TIP-1.
Increase like this on every row from right side 2-2-3-3-3-3 times in total = 62-66-70-74-80-84 stitches. Work until piece measures 14-15-16-17-17-18 cm = 5½"-6"-6¼"-6¾"-6¾"-7", measured along armhole. Back piece measures approx. 25-28-29-31-32-34 cm = 9¾"-11"-11⅜"-12¼"-12½"-13⅜" in total from cast-on edge, finish with a row from right side. Cut the yarn, slip stitches on a thread or stitch holder, and work bands and front pieces as explained below.

LEFT BAND:
Cast on 7 stitches on circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75 with 4 strands in color off white.
Work LEFT BAND WITH I-CORD - read explanation above. Continue until band measures 8-8-9-9-9-9 cm = 3⅛"-3⅛"-3½"-3½"-3½"-3½", finish with a row from wrong side, then continue as explained below left front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work from right side over the 7 band stitches, then pick up 18-20-20-22-24-26 stitches inside outermost stitch along left shoulder on back piece (i.e. pick up 1 stitch in every row from edge at the top of back piece, see D on chart) = 25-27-27-29-31-33 stitches. All length measurements on front piece are done from here. Work stockinette stitch with 7 band stitches towards mid front and STRIPES - remember explanation above. When piece measures 7 cm = 2¾", increase stitches towards the neck. Increase as follows from right side: Work 8 stitches, increase towards the left, work the rest of row - remember INCREASE TIP-1. Increase 1 stitch every other row 9 times in total, then on every 4th row 2-2-3-3-4-4 times in total.

AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 21-22-22-23-25-26 cm = 8¼"-8¾"-8¾"-9"-9¾"-10¼", work next row as follows from right side: 7 band stitches as before, work until 3 stitches remain, increase towards the right, knit 3 – remember INCREASE TIP-1.

Increase like this on every row from right side 2-2-3-3-3-3 times in total = 38-40-42-44-47-49 stitches. Continue stockinette stitch and band stitches as before until piece measures 24-25-26-27-29-30 cm = 9½"-9¾"-10¼"-10⅝"-11⅜"-11¾", slip stitches on a thread or needle, make sure that last row worked is from right side, and to finish on same stripes as back piece. Fasten off. Then work right front piece as explained below.

RIGHT BAND:
Cast on 7 stitches on circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75 with 4 strands in color off white.
Work RIGHT BAND WITH I-CORD - read explanation above. Continue until band measures 9-9-10-10-11-11 cm = 3½"-3½"-4"-4"-4⅜"-4⅜", finish with a row from wrong side, then continue as explained below right front piece. Fasten off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Pick up 18-20-20-22-24-26 stitches with 4 strands in color off white inside outermost stitch along right shoulder on back piece (i.e. pick up 1 stitch in every row from edge at the top of back piece, see E on chart), then work the 7 band stitches on to row = 25-27-27-29-31-33 stitches. All length measurements on front piece are done from here. Work stockinette stitch with 7 band stitches towards mid front and stripes. When piece measures 7 cm = 2¾", increase stitches towards the neck. Increase as follows from right side. Work until 8 stitches remain, increase towards the right, work 8 stitches as before – remember INCREASE TIP-1. Increase 1 stitch every other row 9 times in total, then on every 4th row 2-2-3-3-4-4 times in total. Decrease for BUTTONHOLES - read explanation above.

AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 21-22-22-23-25-26 cm = 8¼"-8¾"-8¾"-9"-9¾"-10¼", work next row as follows from right side: Work 3 stitches, increase towards the left, work the rest of row - remember INCREASE TIP-1.Increase like this on every row from right side 2-2-3-3-3-3 times in total = 38-40-42-44-47-49 stitches. Continue stockinette stitch and band stitches as before until piece measures 24-25-26-27-29-30 cm = 9½"-9¾"-10¼"-10⅝"-11⅜"-11¾", make sure that last row worked is from right side, and to finish on same stripes as back piece and left front piece.

Work next row as follows – from wrong side: Work over the 38-40-42-44-47-49 stitches from right front piece, cast on 4-4-6-6-8-10 new stitches at the end of this row, work from wrong side over the 62-66-70-74-80-84 stitches on back piece, cast on 4-4-6-6-8-10 new stitches, work over the 38-40-42-44-47-49 stitches from left front piece.

BODY:
= 146-154-166-174-190-202 stitches. Continue back and forth with stockinette stitch and stripes.
Work until piece measures 49-51-53-55-57-59 cm = 19¼"-20"-21"-21⅝"-22½"-23¼", measured from where stitches were picked up for front pieces. Work 1 row from right side while increasing 22-22-22-26-26-30 stitches evenly (do not increase over bands) = 168-176-188-200-216-232 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8. Work rib as follows – from wrong side: 7 band stitches as before, * knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 9 stitches remain, purl 2 and 7 band stitches as before. Continue rib like this for 6 cm = 2⅜". Bind off. Jacket measures approx. 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm = 21⅝"-22½"-23¼"-24"-24¾"-25½", measured from the top point on shoulder.

SLEEVES:
Place piece flat and insert 1 marker at the top of armhole (NOTE! It is not where stitches were picked up for front piece but approx. 5-6 cm = 2"-2⅜" down on front piece = mid on top of shoulder).
Use circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75 and 4 strands in color off white and work STRIPES - remember explanation above, begin in the middle of the new stitches cast on under sleeve, and pick up 56-58-62-66-70-74 stitches around the armhole - adjust to pick up same number of stitches on each side of marker along armhole. Now work stockinette stitch back and forth with short rows over sleeve cap, this is done to get a better shape on sleeve. Begin mid under sleeve.

1st row (right side): work 7-7-7-8-8-9 stitches past marker, turn
2nd row (wrong side): work 7-7-7-8-8-9 stitches past marker, turn.
3rd row (right side): 6-6-5-5-4-4 stitches past where the previous turn was, turn
4th row (wrong side): work 6-6-5-5-4-4 stitches past where the previous turn was, turn

Repeat 3rd and 4th row until 25-25-27-28-28-29 stitches have been worked past marker mid on top of sleeve (4-4-5-5-6-6 turn have been done in each side). Work from right side until beginning of round (mid under sleeve). Insert 1 marker thread here, this is used when decreasing stitches under sleeve. Move marker thread upwards when working.

Continue working in the round in stockinette stitch over all stitches. When sleeve measures 7-7-8-8-9-10 cm = 2¾"-2¾"-3⅛"-3⅛"-3½"-4" from where stitches were picked up (all length measurements are done mid on top of sleeve), decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease every other round 2-2-3-3-4-4 times, then decrease every 4½-4-4-3-2½-2-1½ cm = 1⅝"-1½"-1½"-1⅛"-1"-¾"-½" 8-8-8-10-10-11 times, 10-11-11-13-14-15 times in total = 36-38-40-40-42-44 stitches. Continue to work until sleeve measures 46-45-46-45-44-43 cm = 18"-17¾"-18"-17¾"-17¼"-17". 6 cm = 2⅜" remain until finished measurements. Try the jacket and work to desired length before rib. Knit 1 round while increasing 8-6-8-8-10-8 stitches evenly = 44-44-48-48-52-52 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 5.5 MM = US 9. Work rib (knit 2/purl 2) for 6 cm = 2⅜". Bind off. Sleeve measures approx. 52-51-52-51-50-49 cm = 20½"-20"-20½"-20"-19¾"-19¼".

ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons on to left front piece. Sew the loose bands together mid back, and sew on to cast-on edge at the back of neck.

Diagram explanations
symbol = pick up stitches for left shoulder at the front (d) along left shoulder at the back (D), pick up stitches for right shoulder at the front (e) along right shoulder back (E)
symbol = knitting direction

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