DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
DROPS Glitter
DROPS Glitter
60% Cupro, 40% Metal
from 2.70 $ /10g
DROPS Super Sale

Diamonds And Pearls

Knitted DROPS bolero with lace pattern and raglan "BabyAlpaca Silk", "Kid-Silk" and "Glitter". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 157-12
DROPS design: Pattern no bs-070
Yarn group A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-88-94-106-118-130 cm / 31½''-34 5/8''-37''-41¾''-46½''-51''
Full length: 40-42-44-46-49-50 cm / 15 3/4"-16½"-17 1/4"-18"-19 1/4"-19 3/4"

Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
200-200-200-250-250-300 g color no 8465, medium gray
and use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
75-75-100-100-100-125 g color no 10, gray
and use:
DROPS GLITTER from Garnstudio
2 spools for all sizes in color no 02, silver.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'' and 40 cm / 32'') SIZE 5 mm / US 8 – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st with 1 strand of each yarn = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 5 mm / H/8 - for edge.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON w/HOLES, NO 521: 3 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
DROPS Glitter
DROPS Glitter
60% Cupro, 40% Metal
from 2.70 $ /10g

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

GARTER ST (in the round on double pointed needles):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.2. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. When dec for raglan, dec in sts in pattern A.1. NOTE: Do not work YOs twisted, they should make holes.

INCREASE TIP 1 (applies to mid front)
All inc are done from RS.
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row P YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP 2 (applies to inc in the sides + sleeves)
All inc are done from RS.
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO before marker, K 1, 1 YO (= 1 st inc on each side of marker). On next row/round K/P YOs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to raglan dec):
Dec 1 st before A.2 as follows: Work until 3 sts remain before A.2, K 3 tog (i.e. 1 st for raglan and 1 st for YO in A.2 has been dec).
Dec 1 st after A.2 as follows: K 3 twisted tog (i.e. 1 st for raglan and 1 st for YO in A.2 has been dec).

Dec 2 sts before A.2 as follows: Work until 4 sts remain before A.2, K 4 tog (i.e. 2 sts for raglan and 1 st for YO in A.2 have been dec).
Dec 2 st after A.2 as follows: K 4 twisted tog (i.e. 2 st for raglan and 1 st for YO in A.2 has been dec).

DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to neck dec):
Dec inside 2 band sts in each side. All dec are done from RS!
Dec after 2 band sts as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows before 2 band sts: K 2 tog.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures (measured from cast-on edge):
SIZE S: 7, 13 and 19 cm / 2 3/4",5",7½"
SIZE M: 8, 14 and 20 cm / 3",5½",8"
SIZE L: 7, 14 and 21 cm / 2 3/4",5½",8 1/4"
SIZE XL: 8, 15 and 22 cm / 3",6",8 3/4"
SIZE XXL: 7, 15 and 23 cm / 2 3/4",6",9"
SIZE XXXL: 8, 16 and 24 cm / 3",6 1/4",9½"
----------------------------------------------------------

BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the sts.
Cast on 105-117-129-149-169-189 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 1 strand of each yarn (= 3 strands). Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above. P 1 row from WS with 2 edge sts in garter st in each side of piece. Then work as follows from RS: 2 sts in garter st (= band sts), 21-24-27-32-37-42 sts in stockinette st (= right front piece), insert 1 marker, 1-4-7-12-17-22 sts in stockinette st, A.1 (= 57), 1-4-7-12-17-22 sts in stockinette st (= back piece), insert 1 marker, 21-24-27-32-37-42 in stockinette st, finish with 2 sts in garter st (= band sts). Work band sts in garter st until finished measurements. Work 2 rows in garter st, stockinette st and A.1. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! INC MID FRONT AND IN THE SIDES AT THE SAME TIME AS FOLLOWS:
INC MID FRONT: Inc 1 st in each side of piece inside 2 band sts - READ INCREASE TIP 1. Repeat inc every row from RS 7 more times. Work inc sts in stockinette st. Remember BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above.
INC IN THE SIDES: When piece measures 3-3-4-4-5-5 cm / 1 1/8''-1 1/8''-1½''-1½''-2''-2'', inc 1 st on each side of markers (= 4 sts inc) – see INCREASE TIP 2. Repeat inc every 3 cm / 1'' 4 more times. Work inc sts in stockinette st.
When all inc are done there are 141-153-165-185-205-225 sts.

Continue in garter st, stockinette st and A.1 until piece measures 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm / 6¾''-7''-7½''-8''-8¼''-8¾''. Then bind off 3 sts on each side of each marker for sleeve = 129-141-153-173-193-213 sts (= 33-36-39-44-49-54 sts on each front piece and 63-69-75-85-95-105 sts on back piece). Insert 1 marker in each side of piece in band sts mid front. Work an edge in garter st later between markers. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 32-34-36-38-40-42 sts on double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 with 1 strand of each yarn (= 3 strands). Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Insert 1 marker at the beg of the round. Then work piece in stockinette st. When piece measures 11 cm / 4½'', inc 1 st on each side of marker - remember INCREASE TIP 2! Repeat inc every 4-4-3½-3-2½-2½ cm / 1½"-1½"-1 1/4"-1"-7/8"-7/" 6-6-7-8-9-9 more times. Switch to circular needle when needed. Then inc 1 st on each side of marker every round 13 times in total = 72-74-78-82-86-88 sts. Work until piece measures 45-45-44½-44½-44-44 cm / 17 3/4"-17 3/4"-17½"-17½"-17 1/4"-17 1/4". Then bind off 6 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. Bind off 3 sts on each side of marker) = 66-68-72-76-80-82 sts. Put piece aside and make another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bind off = 261-277-297-325-353-377 sts.
Work as follows from WS: Work 2 sts in garter st (= band sts), 31-34-37-42-47-52 sts in stockinette st (= left front piece), A.2 (= 2 sts), 62-64-68-72-76-78 sts in stockinette st, A.2 (= left sleeve), stockinette st and A.1 as before over back piece (= 63-69-75-85-95-105 sts), A.2, 62-64-68-72-76-78 sts in stockinette st, A.2 (= right sleeve), 31-34-37-42-47-52 stockinette st, finish with 2 sts in garter st (= band sts). Continue as before in garter st, stockinette st, A.1 and A.2 AT THE SAME TIME dec for raglan – read DECREASE TIP 1. Dec is different on sleeves/back piece and front piece.

ON SLEEVE/BACK PIECE: Dec 1 st on every row from RS 21-22-23-24-26-27 times = 24-24-26-28-28-28 sts on each sleeve and 21-25-29-37-43-51 sts on back piece.

ON FRONT PIECE: Dec 1 st on every row from RS 19-19-19-16-16-13 times, then 2 sts on every row from RS 2-3-4-8-10-14 times, i.e. on last dec, dec 1 band st.
AT THE SAME TIME on 6th row in raglan dec 1 st for neck inside the 2 band sts in garter st in each side of piece – READ DECREASE TIP 2, repeat after 6th row 1 more time, then dec every 4th row 7-7-7-8-9-10 times, then every other row 0-1-2-1-1-0 times.
After all dec on front piece 1 band st remains on front piece. On the next 2 rows, bind off the 1 band st and A.2 (= 2 sts) in each side of piece.

After all bind off and dec are done, 65-69-77-89-95-103 sts remain on needle. Now work an elevation in the neck as follows:
Size S-M-L: Now continue piece in stockinette. Work 1 row over all sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 12-14-18 sts evenly = 53-55-59 sts. Work 26-27-29 sts (= mid back), turn piece. Work 15-16-20 sts, turn piece and work 30-32-40 sts, turn piece. Work 24-26-32 sts, turn piece and work 18-20-24 sts, turn piece. Work 14-15-17 sts, turn piece and work 10 sts. Cut the yarn and slip sts on a stitch holder.
Size XL-XXL-XXXL: Continue raglan dec until sts have been slipped on a stitch holder (i.e. dec 1 st on each side of A.2 where it is possible). AT THE SAME TIME work an elevation as follows: * Work the first 6 sts, then slip them on a stitch holder and work the rest of the row. Do the same in the opposite side of the piece *, repeat from *-* 2 more times. Cut the yarn and slip the remaining sts on a stitch holder.

Then pick up approx. 60-90 sts (includes sts from stitch holder) between markers on body. Work 1 ridge AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row adjust no of sts to 60-62-70-74-82-82. Bind off.

EDGE:
Crochet edge around front piece, the neck and in bottom edge of back piece and in sleeve edge on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with 1 strand Kid-Silk.
Work 1 sc, * ch 3, skip 1 st/row, 1 sc in outer loop of outermost next st/row *, repeat from *-* around opening. Finish with 1 sl st in first sc. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew tog under sleeves. Sew the buttons on to left front piece.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 1, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 2, P 1 from cable needle
symbols = P 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to P, P 1, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to P, P 2 tog, psso
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (102)

country flag KevinGap wrote:

Hoki1881

28.03.2024 - 10:27

country flag Tetaud Christine wrote:

Je ne comprends pas le diagramme. Le motif A1 est tronqué par le bas et je ne trouve pas le diagramme A2

13.03.2024 - 11:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Tetaud, attention lors de l'impression des explications à ce que le diagramme A.1 se trouve bien sur une seule page -ajustez les paramètres de votre imprimante si besoin. Le diagramme A.2 est un tout petit diagramme sur 2 mailles x 2 rangs, juste à droite, en haut de A.1, sous la légende. Bon tricot!

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