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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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All measurements in charts are in cm.
= K from RS, P from WS | |
= K from WS |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Easy Breeze |
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Knitted DROPS jacket in “Merino Extra Fine” with removable collar in “Puddel”. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS 132-17 |
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GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows. DECREASE TIP (applies to armholes): Dec 1 st from RS inside 1 edge st and 2 K sts along armhole. After 1 edge st and 2 K sts: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso. Before 2 K sts and 1 edge st: K 2 tog. INCREASE TIP: Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next row K YO twisted, i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front, to avoid holes. PATTERN: See diagram M.1 (the diagram shows all the rows in the pattern seen from RS) BUTTON HOLE 1: Bind off for 7 button holes on right front band. 1 BUTTON HOLE = K tog third and fourth st from edge tog and make 1 YO. K YO on next row. Bind off for button holes when piece measures approx.: SIZE S: 6, 11, 16, 21, 26, 31, 35 cm / 2⅜",4⅜",6¼",8¼",10¼",12¼",13¾". SIZE M: 6, 12, 17, 22, 27, 32, 37 cm / 2⅜",,4¾",6¾",8¾",10⅝",12½",14½". SIZE L: 6, 12, 18, 23, 28, 33, 38 cm / 2⅜",,4¾",7",9",11",13",15". SIZE XL: 7, 13, 19, 25, 30, 35, 40 cm / 2¾",5⅛",7½",9¾",11¾",1¾",15¾". SIZE XXL: 7, 13, 19, 25, 31, 36, 41 cm / 2¾",5⅛",7½",9¾",12¼",14¼",16⅛". SIZE XXXL: 7, 13, 19, 25, 31, 37, 43 cm / 2¾",5⅛",7½",9¾",12¼",14½",17". Approx. 1 cm / ⅜" remains up to neck edge after last button hole. BUTTON HOLE 2: bind off for 6 button holes evenly on neck edge. Bind off for the outermost button holes approx. 2 cm / ¾" from edge in each side. 1 BUTTON HOLE = K 2 sts tog and make 1 YO. K YO on next row. -------------------------------------------------------- BACK PIECE: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 82-88-100-106-118-130 sts (includes 1 edge st in garter st in each side) on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with Merino Extra Fine. On 1st row (= RS) work as follows: 1 edge st in garter st - see explanation above -, work diagram M.1 until 3 sts remain, finish with the first 2 sts in diagram M.1 and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue to work like this until piece measures 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm / 12¼"-12½"-13"-13⅜"-13¾"-14¼". REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Then bind off from RS 3-3-6-6-6-9 sts for armholes at beg of the next 2 rows = 76-82-88-94-106-112 sts. Work next row (= RS) as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, K 2, dec 1 st - Read DECREASE TIP above, continue with pattern until 5 sts remain, dec 1 st - Read DECREASE TIP above, K 2 and 1 edge st in garter st = 2 sts dec. Repeat dec of 1 st inside 1 edge st and 2 K sts in each side on every row from RS like this a total of 3-6-6-6-9-9 times = 70-70-76-82-88-94 sts. Continue with pattern until piece measures 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm / 18"-19"-19¾"-20½"-21¼"-22". Now bind off the middle 22-22-28-28-34-34 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Bind off 2 sts on next row from neck = 22-22-22-25-25-28 sts remain on the shoulder. When piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm / 19"-19¾"-20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾", loosely bind off all sts with K over K and P over P. RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 46-49-55-58-64-70 sts (includes 4 band sts towards mid front and 1 edge st in garter st in the side) on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with Merino Extra Fine. On 1st row (= RS) work as follows: 4 sts in garter st (= band sts), work diagram M.1 until 3 sts remain, finish with the first 2 sts in diagram M.1 and 1 edge st in garter st. Bind off for button holes when piece measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm / 2⅜"-2⅜"-2⅜"-2¾"-2¾"-2¾" - Read BUTTON HOLE 1 above. Do not forget to continue to bind off for button holes! When piece measures 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm / 12¼"-12½"-13"-13⅜"-13¾"-14¼", bind off 3-3-6-6-6-9 sts for armhole at beg of next row from WS =43-46-49-52-58-61 sts. Then dec 1 st inside 1 edge st and 2 K sts in the side as on back piece. At the same time when piece measures 36-38-39-41-42-44 cm / 14¼"-15"-15¼"-16⅛"-16½"-17¼", bind off 6-6-8-8-10-10 sts at beg of next row from RS for neck. Then bind off at beg of every row from RS as follows: bind off 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1-1-2-2-2-2 times, then 1 st 7-7-6-6-7-7 times = 22-22-22-25-25-28 sts remain on shoulder. When piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm / 19"-19¾"-20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾", loosely bind off all sts with K over K and P over P. LEFT FRONT PIECE: Work the same way as on right front piece but reversed and without button holes. SLEEVE: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 40-46-52-52-58-58 sts (includes 1 edge st in garter st in each side) on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with Merino Extra Fine. On 1st row (= RS) work as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, work diagram M.1 until 3 sts remain, finish with the first 2 sts in diagram M.1 and 1 edge st in garter st. When piece measures 8-8-8-7-7-7 cm / 3⅛"-3⅛"-3⅛"-2¾"-2¾"-2¾", inc 1 st inside 1 edge st in each side of piece - Read INCREASE TIP above. Work the new sts in the pattern. Repeat inc every 4½-5-5½-4-4½-3½ cm / 1¾"-2"-2¼"-1½"-1¾"-1¼" a total of 9-8-7-9-8-10 times = 58-62-66-70-74-78 sts. Continue until piece measures 48-47-47-45-45-44 cm / 19"-18½"-18½"-17¾"-17¾"-17¼" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulder width). Now bind off for sleeve cap in each side on every other row as follows: bind off 3 sts 1-2-2-2-3-3 times, 2 sts a total of 3-2-3-3-2-3 times and 1 st until piece measures approx. 55-55-55-54-54-54 cm / 21⅝"-21⅝"-21⅝"-21¼"-21¼"-21¼". Now bind off for sleeve cap in each side on every other row as follows: 2 sts 3 times, 3 sts 2 times. Then loosely bind off all sts with K over K and P over P. Piece now measures approx. 59-59-59-58-58-58 cm / 23¼"-23¼"-23¼"-22¾"-22¾"-22¾". Knit another sleeve. ASSEMBLY: Sew the shoulder seams tog. Sew in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams in one inside 1 edge st. NECK EDGE: Worked back and forth in garter st with Merino Extra Fine on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 as follows: Beg on right front band, knit up from RS approx. 110-140 sts inside 1 edge st along neck edge. Work 1 row in garter st from WS. On next row from RS, bind off for 6 button holes evenly on row - Read BUTTON HOLE 2 above. Continue in garter st until piece measures approx. 2 cm / ¾". Loosely bind off all sts. COLLAR: Worked in the round in stockinette st. Cast on 12-12-12-16-16-16 sts on double pointed needles size 6 mm / US 10 with Puddel. On the first 2 rounds inc 4 sts evenly on each round = 20-20-20-24-24-24 sts. Continue in stockinette st until length is the same as neck edge minus approx. 1 cm / ½". On the next 2 rounds dec 4 sts evenly on each round = 12-12-12-16-16-16 sts, bind off all sts on next round. Sew tog opening at the ends, evenly sew on buttons on collar to match button holes on neck edge. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogs and 11422 patterns - 11417 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (23)
Vale wrote:
Excuse me, I have a question. The patterns in Garnstudio.com , have a reference regarding the scale of difficulty, for example, how can I understand if a pattern is Easy, Medium or Hard difficulty level? Also, it says its for needle 4.5 mm (80 cm), but if the yarn is 'extra fine', how is it possible to use large needles, for fine yarn? Thank you for the info...
30.12.2020 - 11:59DROPS Design answered:
Dear Vale, unfortunately, DROPS pattern don't have a grade of difficulty but if you have trouble during the project you can watch the suggested video tutorials or lessons which can help you to go on. Moreover, regarding this pattern, you've to choose the needle size that let you reach the correct gauge. Happy knitting!
30.12.2020 - 12:11Vale wrote:
Excuse me, I have a question. The patterns in Garnstudio.com , have a reference regarding the scale of difficulty, for example, how can I understand if a pattern is Easy, Medium or Hard difficulty level? Also, it says its for needle 4.5 mm (80 cm), but if the yarn is 'extra fine', how is it possible to use large needles, for fine yarn? Thank you for the info...
30.12.2020 - 11:58DROPS Design answered:
Dear Vale, unfortunately, DROPS pattern don't have a grade of difficulty but if you have trouble during the project you can watch the suggested video tutorials or lessons which can help you to go on. Moreover, regarding this pattern, you've to choose the needle size that let you reach the correct gauge. Happy knitting!
30.12.2020 - 12:10JoAnne wrote:
Thanks so very much for your time and all of your help! I'll be able to finish my sweater today. Have a joyful day!
03.03.2016 - 12:54JoAnne wrote:
Easy Breeze sleeve cap Part 3: Where the patterns states: "Now bind off for sleeve cap in each side on every other row as follows: 2 sts 3 times, 3 sts 2 times." Does this mean I (bind off 2 sts at beginning of next 2 rows followed by 1 row with no decreases) 3 times; and then (bind off 3 sts at beginning of next 2 rows followed by 1 row with no decreases) 2 times? Thanks so much for your help!
29.02.2016 - 14:53DROPS Design answered:
Dear JoAnne, you have to bind off these sts at the beg of each row both from RS and from WS as previously done, ie bind off 2 sts at the beg of the next 12 rows (= 6 sts bound off on each side), then bind off 3 sts at the beg of next 4 rows (6 sts bound off on each side). Happy knitting!
29.02.2016 - 17:35JoAnne wrote:
Easy Breeze sleeve cap Part 2: Where the pattern states: "[bind off] 1 st until piece measures approx. 55 cm" How many times do I bind off 1 st? How many stitches should be left once this is complete?
29.02.2016 - 14:52DROPS Design answered:
Dear JoAnne, Bind off 1 st at the beg of each row both from RS and from WS until sleeve measures 55 cm in size M, the number of sts bound off will depend on how many row you need to this measurements. Then bind off at the beg of each row on both sides: 2 sts 3 times and 3 sts 2 times. Sleeve should measure 59 cm. Happy knitting!
29.02.2016 - 17:34JoAnne wrote:
Good morning! I am having a little trouble with the sleeve cap shaping for Easy Breeze (I'm making the small size). My question is too long so it is in 3 parts. Part One: Where the pattern states: "Now bind off for sleeve cap in each side on every other row as follows: bind off 3 sts 1 times, 2 sts a total of 3 times" Does this mean I bind off 3 stitches at beginning of next 2 rows; and (2 stitches at beginning of next 2 rows) 3 times?
29.02.2016 - 14:51DROPS Design answered:
Dear JoAnne, that's correct, you bind off for sleeve cap at the beg of every row (both from RS and from WS) 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts a total of 3 times etc. Happy knitting!
29.02.2016 - 17:32Davesne wrote:
Bonjour ,j'adore ce petit modèle mais j'ai horreur de tricoter avec 4aiguilles (sans bout) !!y a t'il possibilité de tricoter à plat et de plier en deux et coudre après ?
20.09.2015 - 12:53DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Davesne, hormis le col, chaque pièce se tricote ici en allers et retours sur aiguille circulaire pour avoir suffisamment de place pour y loger toutes les mailles. Vous pouvez ainsi les tricoter sur aiguilles droites, mais pensez à bien conserver la bonne tension car vos mailles seront plus serrées. Voir aussi ici. Bon tricot!
21.09.2015 - 09:11Lydia Lapidus wrote:
Hei, Jeg finner det litt rart at knappehullet skal ligge på kanten av stolpen og ikke i midten. Skal det være sånn? Altså, det er 3. og 4. Masken som skal strikkes sammen?
06.05.2013 - 20:54DROPS Design answered:
Nej, det er til at knappe kragen i Puddel fast paa jakken. Derfor skal du lukke af som KNAPPHULL 2. Paa det andet billede af modellen (naerbillede af kragen) kan du ogsaa se hvad der menes. God fornöjelse.
10.05.2013 - 16:35Martine wrote:
J'aime beaucoup
04.08.2011 - 21:57Katrien wrote:
Elegant,verfijnd, mooie Claudinekraag en eenvoudig van lijn, kan ook sportief gedragen worden; topper
30.06.2011 - 20:12