DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Belladonna

Crocheted dress with texture pattern. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in DROPS Muskat.

DROPS 187-5
DROPS design: Pattern r-720
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL- XXXL 
Materials: 
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
600-650-700-750-850-950 g colour 12, red
Piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 mm – or size needed to get 17 treble crochets = width 10 cm.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1, A.2 and A.3. A.2 shows how round begins/ends when working in the round.

CROCHET TIP – when working back and forth:
Work 3 chain stitches at the beginning of rows starting with treble crochets (does not replace first treble crochet). Work 1 chain stitch at the beginning of rows starting with double crochets (Does not replace first double crochet).

DECREASE TIP:
TREBLE CROCHET:
Decrease 1 treble crochet by working 2 treble crochets together as follows: 
Work 1 treble crochet in first stitch, but wait with last yarn over and pull through (= 2 loops on hook), work 1 treble crochet in next stitch/around the chain stitch, but on last pull through pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook (= 1 treble crochet decreased).
DOUBLE CROCHET:
Decrease 1 double crochet by working 2 double crochets together as follows: Work 1 double crochet but wait with last yarn over and pull through (= 2 loops on hook), then work next double crochet but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook (= 1 double crochet decreased)

DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches (e.g. 156 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 6) = 26. In this example crochet approx. every 25th and 26th stitch together.
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DRESS: 
There is a 10 cm vent at the bottom of dress, first work piece back and forth until vent is done, then work piece in the round but turn on every round and work back on round to make the texture the same all the way. When piece is divided at the armhole, work back and forth again.

FRONT PIECE:
Work 90-97-104-111-125-139 chain stitches with Muskat on hook size 4 mm. Continue with 1 double crochet in 2nd chain stitch from hook, then 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 78-84-90-96-108-120 double crochets (chain stitch to turn with is also counted as 1 double crochet). Turn and work 1 double crochet in every double crochet. Now work according to diagram A.1 - read CROCHET TIP! REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! After 10 cm put piece aside and work the back piece.

BACK PIECE:
Work 90-97-104-111-125-139 chain stitches with Muskat on hook size 4 mm. Continue with 1 double crochet in 2nd chain stitch from hook, then 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 78-84-90-96-108-120 double crochets (chain stitch to turn with is also counted as 1 double crochet). Turn and work 1 double crochet in every double crochet. Now work according to diagram A.1. Continue until piece measures 10 cm - finish on the same row as on front piece.

DRESS after vent:
Continue pattern like this - first work stitches over front piece, then work stitch over back piece, then work round together with a slip stitch in 1st/3rd stitch on round, work stitch in A.2, turn piece and work back.
Insert 1 marker thread in transitions between front and back piece = sides.
Continue like this back and forth with pattern according to diagram A.1 and A.2. On rounds with treble crochets or double crochets there are now 156-168-180-192-216-240 stitches on round (A.2 is not counted in number of stitches). When piece measures approx. 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm - adjust so that next round is a round with treble crochets or double crochets (marked on diagram with star), decrease 6 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP and DECREASE TIP (evenly). Repeat decrease 6 times in total on the 6 marked rounds with treble crochets or double crochets = 120-132-144-156-180-204 stitches on a round with treble crochets or double crochets.

After last decrease round work pattern as before for approx. 3 cm – adjust so that next round is a round marked with star (piece now measures approx. 48-49-50-51-52-53 cm). Now increase 6 stitches evenly on round by working 2 stitches in 1 stitch. Repeat increase 4 times in total vertically at the rounds marked in diagram = 144-156-168-180-204-228 stitches on a round with treble crochets or double crochets after last increase. When piece measures approx. 60-61-62-63-64-65 cm – adjust after a round marked with star, finish dress according to diagram A.3 (turn as before with diagram A.2). When piece measures 62-63-64-65-66-67 cm, divide the piece for front and back piece at the armholes.

FRONT PIECE:
Work slip stitches over the first 4-5-4-5-6-7 stitches, then work until 4-5-4-5-6-7 stitches remain before marker thread in the other side, turn piece. On next row work the 4 outermost stitches in each side together 2 by 2 – read DECREASE TIP! Repeat decrease on every row 0-0-1-1-2-3 more times. On next row work the 2 outermost stitches together, repeat decrease on every row 2-2-2-3-4-5 more times.
After all decreases are done, 54-58-62-64-68-72 stitches remain on row.
When piece measures 70-71-73-74-76-77 cm, finish each shoulder separately. 

SHOULDER:
Continue with treble crochets over the first 17-19-21-22-23-24 stitches from the right side of piece, turn and work the first 4 stitches together 2 by 2 for neck, then work the rest of row. Turn and work until 4 stitches remain before neck, work these together 2 by 2, turn. On next row work the first 2 stitches together, then work the rest of row. Turn and work until 2 stitches remain, work these together. Turn, work the first 2 stitches together, work the rest of row = 10-12-14-15-16-17 stitches remain on shoulder. Continue until piece measures 80-82-84-86-88-90 cm, fasten off. 
Work the other shoulder the same way, but in reverse. I.e. Start from the right side and working the decreases for neck at end of rows from WS.

BACK PIECE: 
Work slip stitches over the first 4-5-4-5-6-7 stitches, then work until 4-5-4-5-6-7 stitches remain before marker thread in the side, turn piece. On next row work the 4 outermost stitches in each side together 2 by 2 – read DECREASE TIP! Repeat decrease on every row 0-0-1-1-2-3 more times. On next row work the 2 outermost stitches together, repeat decrease on every row 2-2-2-3-4-5 more times. After all decreases are done, 54-58-62-64-68-72 stitches remain on row. Continue to work until piece measures approx. 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm. Then finish each shoulder separately as follows: Work 1 row over the first 12-14-16-17-18-19 stitches, turn, work the first 2 stitches together, work the rest of row. Turn and work until 2 stitches remain, work these together. Turn, work the rest of row, fasten off. Repeat on the other shoulder. 

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.

DECORATING EDGE:
Work a decorating edge around the neck, each armhole and at the bottom of body - as well as up and down each vent.
Work decorating edge as follows: 1 double crochet, * 3 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in 3rd chain stitch from hook, skip approx. 1 cm and make 1 double crochet *. Repeat from *-* and finish with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet from beginning of round.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 06.09.2018
Correction: CROCHET TIP – when working back and forth:
Work 3 chain stitches at the beginning of rows starting with treble crochets (does not replace first treble crochet). Work 1 chain stitch at the beginning of rows starting with double crochets (Does not replace first double crochet).
Updated online: 25.03.2019
Correction - SYMBOL DEFINITION: Star = on these rounds increase/decrease evenly - see pattern

Diagram

symbols = chain stitch
symbols = double crochet in stitch
symbols = double crochet in back loop of stitch from right side and in front loop of stitch from wrong side
symbols = double crochet around chain stitch
symbols = treble crochet in stitch
symbols = treble crochet between 2 treble crochets
symbols = treble crochet around chain stitch
symbols = skip 1 treble crochet, 1 treble crochet in/around next double crochet/chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in stitch that was skipped
symbols = treble crochet group: Work 1 treble crochet in next treble crochet but wait with last pull through (= 2 stitches on hook), work 2 treble crochets in same treble crochet the same way, pull yarn through all 4 stitches on hook
symbols = on these rounds/rows increase/decrease evenly - see pattern
symbols = this row is not worked, it has already been worked and only shows how next row should be worked in stitches
symbols = slip stitch
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (95)

country flag Marianne wrote:

Hei, på rad 9 hvor det skal være en vifte, så går det ikke opp men en hel vifte på raden. Hvor mange staver bør det være i siste vifte for at resten av arbeidet skal bli jevnt oppover?

13.12.2023 - 22:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Marianne, viften hækles i hver 6. stangmaske :)

14.12.2023 - 08:28

country flag Lúcia Maria De Paula Ribeiro Santos wrote:

Quero receber receitas em crochê

30.06.2023 - 03:17

country flag Daphne Bakhuizen wrote:

Wat een mooi patroon! Ondertussen ben ik bij het voorpand onder de schouder beland waar ik de armsgaten moet gaan creëren door te minderen. Het is mij alleen niet duidelijk op welke toeren ik moet minderen (maat S). Is dit net zoals bij de rest van de jurk alleen op de toeren gemarkeerd met ster? Of moet ik gewoon een aantal toeren achter elkaar minderen? En klopt het dat ik in totaal op 4 toeren (maat S) moet minderen op dat stuk? Hartelijk dank voor uw reactie, groeten, Daphne

22.06.2023 - 23:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Daphne,

Het minderen voor de armsgaten doe je een aantal toeren achter elkaar, zodat je echt een ronding krijgt voor het armsgat. Voor maat S staat er bij de eerste mindering (de buitenste 4 steken 2 aan 2 samen haken) dat je dit 0 keer herhaalt. Voor maat S doe je dit dus slechts 1 keer. De volgende mindering (de buitenste 2 steken 2 aan 2 samen haken) herhaal je 2 keer, dit doe je dus 3 keer in totaal voor maat S.

25.06.2023 - 18:19

country flag Grethe wrote:

Stemmer oppskriften helt overens med bildet av kjolen som er vist? Det ser litt ut som om det er flere rader etter slutten av A1 (på bildet av kjolen), før mønsteret repeterer seg?

24.04.2023 - 09:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Grethe, det kan være forskelligt i de forskellige størrelser. Men følg den størrelse som passer dig :)

24.04.2023 - 14:49

country flag Barbara wrote:

Ich bin kein großer Häkelenthusiast, werde das Modell aber versuchen nachzuhäkeln, weil es so super aussieht, allerdings mag ich kein Baumwoll-/Viskosegarn verwenden, habe nachgefragt ob ich evtl. eine andere Wolle verwenden kann und wenn ja, welche. Hoffentlich schaffe ich die "Rundungen", ich stricke viel und häkle so gut wie nie, aber Stäbchen kriege ich noch hin und feste Maschen :-) LG Barbara

11.03.2023 - 15:14

country flag Barbara wrote:

Hallo :-), ich habe eine Frage zur Wolle: Baumwolle/Viskose ist für mich ein Problem, weil die Teile immer länger werden nach dem Waschen, welche Wolle könnte ich alternativ verwenden für dieses Modell? Danke, Barbara

11.03.2023 - 15:11

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Barbara, benutzen Sie den Garnumrechner um die unterschiedlichen Alternativen zu finden - hier lesen Sie auch mehr über die Pflegehinweise - Ihr DROPS Händler hilft Ihnen auch gerne damit - auch per Telefon oder per E-Mail. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

13.03.2023 - 09:33

country flag Carola Vogelgesang wrote:

Hallo, Welche Größe wird für d. Maße Brust 92, Taille 77, Hüfte 95 cm benötigt? Wieviel Maschen sollen angeschlagen werden bei Drops Safran weiß? Wie wird die nächste Reihe nach dem siebener Stäbchen gehäkelt?

03.03.2023 - 12:03

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Vogelgesang, messen Sie eine ähnliche Kleidung, die Sie gerne haben und vergleichen Sie diese Maßnahmen mit den in der Maßskizze, um Ihre Größe zu wählen; hier lesen Sie mehr. Dieses Kleid wird mit Muskat (Garngruppe B) gehäkelt, Safran ist hier keine Alternative - da die Maschenprobe unterschiedlich würde - hier finden Sie Kleider, mit Safran gehäkelt. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

03.03.2023 - 13:12

country flag Margriet wrote:

Ik realiseer me nu pas, veel te laat, dat telpatroon A1 doorloopt tot en met A3. Denk ik? Ik was bij het bereiken van het streepje bij A3 weer onderaan bij A1 begonnen omdat ik dacht dat A1 daar ophield...

04.02.2023 - 14:45

country flag Margriet wrote:

Bij Tip voor het haken: Het is niet duidelijk of je het eerste stokje van de toer nu wel of niet moet vervangen door drie lossen. In de eerste zin staat van niet, in de op een na laatste zin wel. Ook zou het de telpatronen duidelijker maken als de toeren om en om verschillende kleuren hadden

04.02.2023 - 14:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Margriet,

Je vervangt het eerste stokje niet met 3 lossen. De 3 lossen worden dus aanvullend op de toer gehaakt.

05.02.2023 - 17:21

country flag Melissa wrote:

Tere! Mul on probleem ringselt heegeldades, pärast lõhikut, (M suurusel) 84 silmuse hoidmisega. Mida ma ka teeksin see arv kogu aeg suureneb ja mu kleidi servad laienevad. Ma loen oma silmuseid "kinnisilmustes" ja ka "ühekordsete sammaste" juures. (Kas te ütleksite näiteks ka teiste ringide silmuste arvu, et mul tuleks igal real täpne arv silmuseid?) Ette tänades!

06.10.2022 - 09:44

DROPS Design answered:

Tere Melissa! Kahjuks ei ole see info saadaval. Proovige kindlaks teha, kus tekivad lisasilmused. Vajadusel lihtsalt kahandage ülearused silmused jälle tagasi. Ehk on abiks! Head heegeldamist!

19.11.2022 - 00:14