The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Little Willam |
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Knitted pants with stripes for baby and children in DROPS Lima
DROPS Baby 21-31 |
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STRIPES-A: 2 rounds light brown, 3 rounds brown, 3 rounds light brown, 2 rounds brown, 1 round light brown, 3 rounds brown, 4 rounds light brown, 1 round brown, 2 rounds light brown. STRIPES-B: 4 rounds brown, 2 rounds light brown, 4 rounds brown, 4 rounds light brown, 4 rounds brown, 1 round light brown, 1 round brown, 1 round light brown, 4 rounds brown, 3 rounds light brown, 1 round brown, 1 round light brown, 2 round brown. DECREASE TIP: Dec as follows before marker: K 2 tog. Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso. -------------------------------------------------------- PANTS: Worked in the round from the waist down. Cast on 108-112-116 (128-132) sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with brown. Work rib = K 2/P 2 in STRIPES-A - see explanation above. Work until piece measures 8-9-9 (10-10) cm. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work in stocking st while at the same time dec to 96-100-104 (112-116) sts evenly on round. Insert a marker in the middle st at the front and a marker in the middle st at the back of pants (= 47-49-51 (55-57) sts between sts with markers). Continue in the round in stocking st - REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION - When piece measures 11-13-14 (16-17) cm, inc 1 st on each side of the 3 middle sts at the back - inc by picking up st from previous round and K this st. Repeat inc on every other round a total of 9-9-9 (10-10) times = 114-118-122 (132-136) sts. After all inc the piece measures approx. 18-20-21 (23-24) cm. On next round cast off the 3 middle sts at the front and the 3 middle sts at the back (i.e. st with marker and 1 st on each side of this st) and finish each leg separately. Slip the 54-56-58 (63-65) sts for one leg on a stitch holder and the 54-56-58 (63-65) sts for the other leg on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm. LEG: Continue the leg in stocking st in the round – insert a marker at beg of round = inside of leg. When the leg measures 2-2-2 (3-3) cm, dec 1 st on each side of marker – SEE DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 2-3-3½ (4-5½) cm a total of 5 times = 44-46-48 (53-55) sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm when pant measures 28-34-37 (43-49) cm. Work 1 round in stocking st while AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly to 48-48-54 (54-60) sts. Then work rib: K 3/P 3 in the round over all sts in STRIPES-B – see explanation above. When the leg measures 18-22-25 (28-35) cm (the pants should measure 36-42-46 (52-59) cm from the waist), LOOSELY cast off with K over K and P over P. Work the other leg the same way. ASSEMBLY: Sew tog the opening between the legs. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (26)
Ella wrote:
Hi, with this part of the patter :” Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and work in stockinette st while at the same time dec to 96-100-104 (112-116) sts evenly on round”. Does that mean you do all 12 decrease stitches in one round, evenly spaced so every 9 stitches, or decrease every round until I’ve decreased 12. Thanks !
19.06.2023 - 10:35DROPS Design answered:
Hi Ella, your first answer is correct: you do all 12 decrease stitches in one round, evenly spaced so every 9 stitches. Happy knitting!
19.06.2023 - 13:27Shelley wrote:
Continuing from previous question....Then it goes on further to say to increase on each side of the 3 middle stitches at both front and the back. Is that stitches 27, 28, and 29 of, say, the front section, and then stitches 83, 84, and 85 of the back section (of the original total of 112 stitches)? Or is it 3 stitches at the beginning of the round marker and then at the 56 (mid-way) marker?\r\n\r\nSo confusingly written - for me, at least.
26.09.2022 - 00:50DROPS Design answered:
Dear Shelley, you should always have 3 sts between the increases, so that the number of sts between markers increases but the increases will be always worked so that there are 3 sts in between (and the stitch with the marker is the middle of these 3 sts). Happy knitting!
26.09.2022 - 11:06Shelley wrote:
Thanks for answering my earlier question. I have another. For the size 2, the total stitches after the ribbing section is 112 - divided by 2 is 56. Why have a stitch marker at 55 stitches? Would the beginning of the round marker and a marker after the 56 stitch denote the middle and the first half could be, say, the front, and the second half could be, say, the back? And what's the '3 middle stitches at the back'?!?
26.09.2022 - 00:42DROPS Design answered:
Dear Shelley, you will insert the markers like this: 1 stitch with a marker, 55 sts, 1 stitch with a marker, 55 sts (= 1+55+1+55=112 sts). Then you will increase on mid back starting when 1 stitch remain before the marker mid back, knit 3 (the marker mid back is the middle stitch), increase 1 = you have increased 2 sts, 1 on each side of the 3 sts on mid-back. Happy knitting!
26.09.2022 - 11:05Shelley wrote:
After doing the 'Stripes - A' section, are we to continue in the K2-P2 rib in the brown (or main colour) to the 4" mark before switching to the larger needles and continuing in stockinette stitch? It's not clear. As well, would be great to see all the other comments translated in case any other issues are already answered. Thank you.
25.09.2022 - 00:45DROPS Design answered:
Dear Shelley, if you finish the Stripes A section, continue working the rib with the main colour until the garment measures 4" and then, change to larger needles. Happy knitting!
25.09.2022 - 20:03Sabine Haussmann wrote:
Hallo, ich bin gerade dabei, die Hose zu stricken. Wie ist folgender Satz gemeint: Beidseitig der drei mittleren Maschen an der hinteren Mitte je 1 Masche zunehmen, das 9 x wiederholen. Zunahmen immer beidseitig der drei mittleren Maschen oder versetzt, dass sich ein Dreieck bildet? Vielen Dank für Aufklärung
09.11.2021 - 07:26DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Haussmann, es wird immer jeweils beiseitig von den 3 mittleren Maschen zugenommen, dh in jeder 2. Runde insgesamt 9 oder 10 Mal so stricken: bis diese 3 Maschen stricken, 1 Masche zunehmen, diese 3 Maschen stricken, 1 Masche zunehmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
09.11.2021 - 13:10Ramona wrote:
Guten Tag, ich möchte die Hose gerne für meine Tochter nähen die bald geboren wird. Sie soll über der Windel getragen werden. Dazu muss sie gefettet werden damit sie dicht wird. ich habe gelesen, dass das nicht mit allen Garnen geht. Gilt dies für Drops Lima? ich habe auch gesehen dass fertige Wollhosen oft doppelt gestrickt sind, wäre das hier nötig? Das würde doch sehr dick werden ... Ich danke ihnen sehr für ihre Hilfe und freue mich auf das Stricken! Gruß !
05.08.2021 - 09:24DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Ramona, solche Erfahrung haben wir nicht, wenden Sie sich bitte an Ihrem DROPS Laden, vielleicht kann man Ihnen dort helfen? Oder fragen Sie mal andere Strickerinnen in unserer DROPS Workshop. Hier wird die Hose einfädig (= mit 1 Faden Lima) gestrickt - beachten Sie, daß Ihre Maschenprobe stimmt - mehr lesen Sie hier. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
05.08.2021 - 14:18Sandaas Laila wrote:
På denne oppskriften skal det øke i skrittet bare bare , på andre tilsvarende oppskrifter både bak og på en bare foran, hva er riktig egentlig
21.12.2019 - 12:47DROPS Design answered:
Hej Sandaas, Der er mange måder at strikke bukser på. Hvis du følger denne opskrift, så kommer bukserne til at se ud som på billedet. God fornøjelse!
15.01.2020 - 13:41Dina Cassandra Svendsen Myrling wrote:
Hei, har strikket to bukser etter denne oppskriften til to små barn. de som mottok buksene forteller at det må være en feil på oppskriften jeg har fulgt da den blir for liten på rumpen, å derfor ikke plass til en baby med bleie på. har dere testen denne strikken på baby med bleie?
03.02.2019 - 20:45Sonja wrote:
Im zweiten Satz steht, dass man auf 104 Maschen durch Abnehmen anpassen soll. In wievielen Runden sollen die Maschen abgenommen werden? Innerhalb einer Runde? Vielen Dank und Grüße :-), Sonja
27.08.2015 - 23:03DROPS Design answered:
Ja, das erfolgt in einer einzigen Rd. Sie nehmen in 1 Rd so viele M gleichmäßig verteilt ab, dass Sie 104 M auf der Nadel haben, also 12 M abnehmen (von 116 M auf 104 M).
02.09.2015 - 10:19Rebecca wrote:
Dere bør endre et par ord i oppskriften siden flere enn meg har lurt på det samme. At det står "benet", er utydelig ifht om det menes mål frå livet ned, som de fleste ville kalt for "arbeidet," ikke benet. Om det menes lengden fra skrittet til nederste kanten, ville jeg kalt det for benet. Stripemønsteret nederst for størrelse 2 3/4: Hvis jeg strikker mønsteret fullt ut, blir arbeidet lengre enn 59 cm totalt fra livet. Skal man strikke det andre stripemønsteret her i et av kommentarene?
24.08.2015 - 22:46