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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Cozy Wait |
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DROPS jumper in stockinette st with stripes in ”Vienna”. Size S - XXXL.
DROPS 121-18 |
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GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows. COLOR CHANGE: Work stripes as follows: BACK and FRONT PIECE: Cast on - 20 cm / 8": brown 20-31 cm / 8"-12": medium gray 31-42 cm / 12"-16½": brown 42-53 cm / 16½"-21": medium gray 53-64 cm / 21"-25": brown 64 cm / 25" to finished measurements: medium gray SLEEVE: Cast on - 12 cm / 5": brown 12-24 cm / 5"-9½": medium gray 24-36 cm / 9½"-14": brown 36 cm / 14" to finished measurements: medium gray -------------------------------------------------------- BACK PIECE: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 74-80-86-92-104-110 sts on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with brown. P 1 row from WS and continue in rib K3/P3 with 1 edge st each side. When piece measures 10 cm / 4" K 1 row from RS, at the same time dec 6-8-8-8-12-10 sts evenly = 68-72-78-84-92-100 sts. Change to needle size 7 mm / US 10 ½ and continue in stockinette st with 1 edge st each side. See COLOR CHANGE! When piece measures 11 cm / 4½" dec 1 st each side, repeat the dec on every 12-12-13-13-14-14 cm / 4½"-4½"-5"-5"-5½"-5½" a total of 4 times = 60-64-70-76-84-92 sts. When piece measures 52-53-54-55-56-57 cm / 20½"-21"-21¼"-21½"-22"-22½" bind off for armhole at the beg of every row each side as follows: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-0-1-1-2-3 times and 1 st 0-1-1-3-3-4 times = 54-56-58-60-64-66 sts. When piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm / 27½"-28½"-29"-30"-30¾"-31½ bind off the middle 18-18-20-20-22-22 sts for neck, on next row bind off 1 st on neckline = 17-18-18-19-20-21 sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 72-74-76-78-80-82 cm / 28½-29"-30"-30¾"-31½"-32¼". FRONT PIECE: Cast on and work like back piece until piece measures 38-40-42-42-44-46 cm / 15"-15¾"-16½"-16½"-17¼"-18". Now bind off the middle 20-20-22-22-24-24 sts for neck and complete each side separately. Continue the dec at the side. When piece measures 52-53-54-55-56-57 cm / 20½"-21"-21¼"-21½"-22"-22½" bind off for armhole at the side as described for back piece = 17-18-18-19-20-21 sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 72-74-76-78-80-82 cm / 28½-29"-30"-30¾"-31½"-32¼". SLEEVE: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 38-38-44-44-50-50 sts on needle size 6 mm / US 10 with brown. P 1 row from WS and continue in rib K3/P3 with 1 edge st each side. When piece measures 12 cm / 4¾" change to needle size 7 mm / US 10½, work 2 rows GARTER ST – see above, AT THE SAME TIME on first row dec 6-6-10-8-12-12 sts evenly = 32-32-34-36-38-38 sts. Continue in stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st each side – See COLOR CHANGE. When piece measures 13 cm / 5" inc 1 st each side, repeat the inc on every 5-3.5-3-3-2.5-2 cm / 2"-1¼"-1"-1"-¾"-¾" a total of 7-9-10-10-11-13 times = 46-50-54-56-60-64 sts. When piece measures 47-47-46-45-44-43 cm / 18½"-18½"-18"-17¾"-17¼"-17" (less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder) bind off for sleeve cap at the beg of every row each side as follows: 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 1 time, 1 st 1-1-2-3-4-6 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 53 cm / 21". Now bind off 4 sts 1 time each side and bind off remaining sts. COLLAR: Pick up 137-137-143-143-149-149 sts on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with brown as follows: pick up along right neckline on front piece, along neckline on back piece, and down along left neckline. K 1 row from WS and continue as follows from RS: 1 edge st, * K3, P3 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K3 and 1 edge st. When rib measures 9 cm / 3½" inc 1 st in each of the middle 10-10-11-11-12-12 P-sections = 147-147-154-154-161-161 sts. Continue with K3/ P4. When piece measures 14-14-16-16-18-18 cm / 5½"-5½"-6¼"-6¼"-7"-7" make 2 buttonholes as follows from RS: Work 7 sts, work 2 sts tog, 1 YO, work 6 sts, work 2 sts tog, 1 YO, work remaining sts. On next row P YO. Continue with K over K and P over P. Bind off with K over K and P over P when collar measures 16-16-18-18-20-20 cm / 6¼"-6¼"-7"-7"-8"-8". ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams. Set in sleeves and sew under arm seams and side seams inside 1 edge st. Place the right side of rib over left rib at the bottom of neckline and fasten through both layers inside 1 edge st. Sew buttons on left side of neckline. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogs and 11422 patterns - 11417 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (12)
Pascale wrote:
Le modèle 121-18 est tricoté en vienna mais épuisé.avec le convertisseur il est indiqué que je peux le remplacé par la laine brushed alpaca silk .pouvez vous me dire combien de pelotes pour tricoter ce pull Merci par avance Pascale
21.11.2023 - 19:12DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Pascale, lorsque vous utilisez le convertisseur, il vous indique également le poids nécessaire en fonction de la quantité indiquée pour Vienna autrement dit, en taille S vous remplacerez 200 g Vienna par 136 g Brushed Alpaca Silk (en tricotant avec 2 fils) soit 136 / 25 g la pelote = 5,44 soit 6 pelotes. Indiquez dans le convertisseur la quantité pour chaque couleur indiquée pour votre taille pour avoir le poids exact en Brushed Alpaca Silk. Bon tricot!
22.11.2023 - 08:48Monique wrote:
In de tekening staat de hoogte om te minderen voor de armsgaten voor xxl op 80 cm. Maar in de beschrijving staat dat dit bij een hoogte van 56 cm. moet. Indien je na 11cm en 4x 14 cm 1 steek moet minderen aan weerszijden kom je inclusief de boord op 77 cm. Wat moet ik aanhouden?
03.10.2023 - 17:07DROPS Design answered:
Dag Monique,
De afmetingen in de tekening die je aan de meest linker kant ziet, zijn de totale afmetingen van het kledingstuk en niet van de onderkant tot het armsgat.
05.10.2023 - 06:40Rita wrote:
Mevrouw Zuidema,als je op patroon afdrukken klikt moet je normaal het patroon kunnen afdrukken en printerinstellingen op papierformaat zetten
14.10.2015 - 18:07W Zuidema wrote:
Ik heb nog drops wol van vorig jaar liggen en wil deze nu gebruiken voor de trui ,heb genoeg .Maar kan het patroon niet printen .wie weet raad .b.v.d
14.10.2015 - 17:52DROPS Design answered:
Hoi. Er zou geen problemen zijn met het printen van dit patroon. Bij het klikken op "AFDRUKKEN: PATROON" krijgt u een pop-up (reclame). Rechtsboven ziet u "Het patroon afdrukken →". Klik hier om naar de printversie te gaan. Lukt dit niet, dan ligt het probleem bij uw pc en hier kan ik u helaas niet mee helpen.
15.10.2015 - 09:21Annick wrote:
Ik heb deze trui met plezier gebreid, maar ik wil toch even opmerken dat de benodigde hoeveelheid wol zoals aangegeven in de beschrijving niet klopt. Ik heb voor maat L zoals aangegeven 250 gr van beide kleuren gekocht en blijf nu zitten met 150 gr (1,5 bol) grijs - en vervelender: ik kwam bruin tekort waardoor ik de kraag minder groot heb kunnen maken.
01.01.2014 - 19:34DROPS Design answered:
Hoi Annick. Bedankt voor de reactie. We hebben niet eerder reacties gehad hierover, maar we zullen het noteren en aanpassen als nodig is. 1 bol Vienna is 50 gr, dus je hebt niet 150 gr over, maar ongeveer 75 gr. Een tip is ook om de stekenverhouding en dus de afmetingen te controleren.
14.01.2014 - 15:36Annick wrote:
Ik wil graag deze stoere trui gaan breien maar ik weet niet welke maat ik moet kiezen. Bij andere patronen zie ik wel een incicatie van bovenwijdte en lengte, maar dat kan ik hier niet vinden. Ik heb confectiemaat 42. Kunt u mij adviseren?
11.11.2013 - 18:51DROPS Design answered:
Hoi Annick. Kijk onderaan het patroon. Hier staan de afmetingen in cm per maat. Je kan deze vergelijken met je eigen afmetingen om je maat te kiezen. Succes en veel breiplezier.
12.11.2013 - 11:14Anna wrote:
Oh, like the pattern very much. Oww, i want to do it :)
14.07.2010 - 11:24Patricia wrote:
Bonjour pouvez vous m'envoyer les explications de ce modèle je vous en remercie
10.07.2010 - 17:47Lilian wrote:
Can't wait for the pattern. Really like the colours shape and cosy look.
30.06.2010 - 12:21Thordis wrote:
Big like.....
23.06.2010 - 16:34