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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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= beige / light grey purple | |
= pink / light old pink |
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= granite / off white | |
= brown / brown |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Sweet Marie |
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DROPS Cardigan in Silke-Tweed or BabyAlpaca Silk.
DROPS 70-6 |
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Gauge: 23 sts x 30 rows on larger needles in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm Garter st, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows. Rib-1: * K 2, P 4 *, repeat from * - *. Rib-2: * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from * - *. Pattern: See charts. The pattern is seen from the right side and is knit entirely in stockinette st. The charts are placed sideways on the page, with the bottom of the charts closest to the inside edge of the page. Body: The cardigan is knit in the round after the rib with steeks cut at center front and for armholes. Cast on 226-244-268-286-316 sts on smaller circular needles with pink /light old pink. Knit 1 row of Rib-1, keeping 1 st at each edge in garter st throughout and beginning rib with K 2 after the 1 garter st. Change to beige / light grey purple and continue in Rib-1. When the piece measures 2 cm dec all P 4 ribs to P 3 = 189-204-224-239-264 sts. When the piece measures 4 cm dec all P 3 ribs to P 2 = 152-164-180-192-212 sts. You are now knitting Rib-2. When the piece measures 6 cm change to larger circular needles and stockinette st, increasing 7-7-3-3-7 sts evenly distributed on the row and cast on 3 new sts at center front (these 3 sts + 2 edge sts = 5 steek sts which are not knit in the pattern) = 162-174-186-198-222 sts. Join and continue with beige / light grey purple in stockinette st over all sts. When the piece measures 8-9-11-12-13 cm knit Pattern 1 (except over steek sts). After Pattern 1 knit the rest with pink. At the same time when the piece measures 25-27-29-31-32 cm knit the next row as follows: 5 steek sts, 36-39-42-44-49 st for the front, bind off 6-6-6-8-10 sts for armhole, 73-79-85-89-99 sts for the back, bind off 6-6-6-8-10 sts for armhole, 36-39-42-44-49 sts for the front. On the next row cast on 5 new sts over the bound-off armhole sts at each side (these 5 sts are for the armhole steek and are not knit in the pattern) = 160-172-184-192-212 sts. Now dec 1 st for armhole at each side of the 5 armhole steek sts at each side every other row 4-5-7-8-12 times = 144-152-156-160-164 sts remain on needles. When the piece measures 36-38-41-44-45 cm bind off 17-17-17-19-19 sts (incl. 5 steek sts) at center front for neck = 127-135-139-141-145 sts and knit the rest back and forth on the needles. Now bind off at each neck edge every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 3-4-4-4-4 times = 111-117-121-123-127 sts remain on needles. When the piece measures 38-41-44-47-49 cm bind off the 25-27-27-29-29 sts at center back for the neck. Then bind off 2 sts at each back neck edge on the next row. Bind off the remaining 41-43-45-45-47 sts on each side (incl. 5 armhole steek sts) when the piece measures 40-43-46-49-51 cm Sleeve: Cast on 40-44-44-48-48 sts on smaller double-pointed needles with pink / light old pink. Join and place a marker at the join. Knit 1 row of Rib-2, change to beige / light grey purple and continue the rib. When the piece measures 5 cm change to larger double-pointed needles. Continue with Pattern 2 - centering the pattern on sleeves. At the same time when the piece measures 7 cm inc 1 st each side of marker 12-12-15-16-18 times: Size 3/4: alternately every 5th and 6th row. Size 5/6: alternately every 6th and 7th row. Sizes 7/8, 9/10 and 11/12: every 6 rows = 64-68-74-80-84 sts. After Pattern 2 is complete, knit the rest with pink / light old pink. When the piece measures 30-34-38-41-44 cm bind off 3 sts each side of marker and knit back and forth on needles. Now put sts on a st holder at each side for sleeve caps every other row: 3 sts 1 time, then 2 sts at each side until the piece measures 35-39-44-48-52 cm Put all sts from st holders back on the same needles and knit 2 cm reverse stockinette st back and forth on needles (for seam allowance over cut edge on body), increasing 12 sts evenly distributed on first row. Bind off. Assembly: Sew a marker thread in the center of the steek sts on either side and at the center front. Sew two machine seams around the marker thread, 1st seam = 1/2 st from the marker thread, 2nd seam = 1/2 st from first seam. Cut steeks for armholes and at the center front. Left button band: Pick up approx. 110 to 135 sts along left front on smaller needles with pink / light old pink. P 1 row (seen from the right side) then continue in stockinette st. When button band measures 2 cm P 1 row (seen from the right side) for folding edge, then knit 2 cm stockinette st, bind off. Right button band: Knit the same as the left, but after 1 cm make 5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes evenly distributed along button band - put bottom buttonhole approx. 9 cm from bottom edge and top buttonhole approx. 1 cm from top edge. 1 buttonhole = bind off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts over the bound-off sts on on the next row. Make corresponding buttonholes on facing after folding edge. Fold button bands against wrong side and sew in place. Collar: Pick up from right side: approx. 68 to 80 sts (divisible by 4) around the neck (including over button bands) on smaller circular needles with pink / light old pink. K 1 row, then knit Rib-2, keeping 1 st at each edge in garter st throughout and beginning with K 2 after the edge st. When the collar measures 2.5 cm inc all P 2 ribs to P 3 and when the collar measures 5 cm inc all P 3 ribs to P 4. Continue in Rib-1 until the collar measures 8 cm ; bind off in pattern. Sew in sleeves. Fold seam allowance from sleeve cap over cut edge on Body and sew in place. Sew on buttons. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (25)
Adela wrote:
Explicame por favor, ,una vez ya cortado el frente y las sisas, cómo sigo?explicame todo lo que puedas, es que nunca lo hice(desconocia esta forma)Desde que Pts levanto para las cenefas? y las mangas?Desde el borde cortado? o se doblan y cosen y luego se toman los pts.del borde doble o doblado? Al cortar hay riesgos de que se destejan los bordes?Muchas gracias y tdisculpa por mi insistencia
17.05.2016 - 15:57DROPS Design answered:
Hola Adela. Para que no se destejan los bordes cortados hacemos una doble costura con la maquina de coser. Tienes que seguir paso a paso lo explicado en el patrón. Es muy importante que la puntada de la maquina no sea demasiado larga.
21.05.2016 - 19:15Adela wrote:
T12 a);Cómo se sujetan los bordes hacia adentro,una vez que hice el corte en el centro de los 5pt?_ b) Queda un borde doble y bastante grueso?. Las cenefas delanteras _ c ) ¿:sobre que línea de la hilera levanto los 135pts? Gracias por respuesta de ESTAS 3 Preguntas
10.05.2016 - 14:00DROPS Design answered:
Hola Adela. En primer lugar comentarte que tenemos espacio limitado para las respuestas (aprox 6-8 líneas) así que es imposible contestar a varias preguntas en una respuesta. Te recomiendo ver los vídeos que acompañan al patrón. Los pts se recogen por el LD sobre la costura/borde del delantero. Este modelo requiere bastante experiencia por su complejidad.
21.05.2016 - 19:06Adela wrote:
Después del corte se dobla hacia adentro ,pensé que el orillo se deja para levantar los pts.de las cenefas delanteras ¿,Si no desarmo lo hecho.... y sigo como me decis,(los 5 en jersey) se notará como desprolijjo?Que harias?
19.04.2016 - 12:09DROPS Design answered:
Hola Adela, sigue como hasta ahora para tener todo igual y ten en cuenta esta técnica para la siguiente labor.
21.04.2016 - 17:05Adela wrote:
Después del corte se dobla hacia adentro ,pensé que el orillo se deja para levantar los pts.de las cenefas delanteras ¿,Si no desarmo lo hecho.... y sigo como me decis,(los 5 en jersey) se notará como desprolijjo?Que harias?
19.04.2016 - 11:44Adela wrote:
Las indicaciones dicen: " Cuando la labor mida 8-9-11-12-13 cm trabajar el Patrón 1-" excepto sobre los pts del corte" .en esos 5 pts teji :1p orillo 3pts jersey sin jackard y 1p orilloPuedo continuar asi ? porque ya teji la 3° parte del patron.Abrazo(.Dime la solución mejor)
18.04.2016 - 14:41DROPS Design answered:
Hola Adela. Si trabajamos en redondo no hay pts orillo, los 5 pts se trabajan siempre de derecho. Si trabajas el pt orillo siempre de derecho es lo mismo que trabajar pt jersey. Si trabajas el pt orillo en pt musgo (en redondo es 1 vta de derecho, 1 vta de revés) tendrás un nudo en el medio de la labor. Depende de como quieras que quede tu trabajo. Personalmente trabajaría todo de derecho.
19.04.2016 - 10:10Adela wrote:
Detrás de los 3pts de corte ,del centro delantero,quedan las hebras (en la parte diagrama)que cruzan,Pregunto si tengo que tomar precaución especial cuando corte por el centro de los 3pts.para que no se destejan los pts del saco..Si es asi cómo se hace?Saludos
16.04.2016 - 21:11DROPS Design answered:
Hola Adela, los pts del corte no son 3, sino 5. Se trabajan como el resto de la chaqueta en pt jacquard. Hacemos 2 costuras antes de hacer el corte para que no se destejan los pts.
17.04.2016 - 09:28Adela wrote:
Al tejer el cuerpo en jersey en redondo ¿los pts de orillo los tejo en musgo hastat el final?Gracias .(me refiero a los pts que están en cada extremo de los 3 pts agregados)
14.04.2016 - 14:36DROPS Design answered:
Hola Adela. Cuando se trabaja en redondo ya no hay pts orillo. A partir de aquí el patrón entero se trabaja en pt jersey.
17.04.2016 - 09:18Adela wrote:
Es un desafio para quienes amamos realizar prendas tejidas.Me encanta La "técnica del corte y costura,es desconocida para mi, espero hacerla correctamente..Lo nombro modelo VIRGINIAFELICITACIONES.
14.04.2016 - 13:14Adela wrote:
Gracias,Entendí.Me descuidé en la lectura del primer renglón :"La chaqueta se trabaja en redondo después del elástico y al terminar se corta. ......". y seguí tejiendo en ida y vuelta.Un abrazo
14.04.2016 - 13:06Adela wrote:
"Insertar un hilo marcador en el centro de los pts de la costura a cada lado (de la manga?)( y en que lugar es el centro del delantero?). Hacer 2 costuras con máquina de coser alrededor del marcador de la sisa y del centro del delantero etc,( es el centro delantero de la parte de arriba de la manga? . Cortar para la sisa y el delantero(a dónde se corta en el delantero?que se corta? A que parte de la prenda se refiere?El video lo comprendí,no me doy cuenta en que lugar es "delantero"
12.04.2016 - 20:04DROPS Design answered:
Hola Adela, pasamos el hilo marcador por el pt central de los 3 pts nuevos montados. Por ahí vamos a cortar para la abertura del delantero. Finalmente trabajamos la abertura según el video que te envíe antes.
13.04.2016 - 09:30