-------------------------------------------------------
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------
All measurements in charts are in cm.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Beach Wedding |
|
|
|
DROPS Poncho in Vienna or Melody and Snow, with crocheted flowers in Cotton Viscose
DROPS 89-25 |
|
Gauge: Snow: 10 sts x 14 rows on smaller needles in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm Vienna / Melody: 8 sts x 10 rows on larger needles in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm Rib: * K 4, P 3 *, repeat * - *. Increasing tips (for front and back): Inc by making a yo at each side of the center 4 sts (in Size XL/XXL increase at each side of the center 3 sts) at center front and center back. Poncho: The poncho is knit from neck down. Loosely cast on 98-105-112-119 sts on smaller circular needles with Snow; join and place a marker at the join. P 1 row and then knit rib – see instructions above. When the piece measures 13-14-15-16 cm dec all K 4 to K 3 = 84-90-96-102 sts. Continue until piece measures 26-28-30-32 cm, then K 1 row, P 1 row. . Change to larger circular needles and Vienna or Melody and knit stockinette st, decreasing to 68-72-76-82 sts on the 1st row. On the next row put 4 markers in work as follows: * 1 marker (= shoulder), 17-18-19-20 sts, 1 marker (= center front or back) – in Size XL/XXL put the marker in the 21st st, 17-18-19-20 sts *, repeat * - *. Measure the work from here. Read entire next section before knitting: Inc center front and center back: Continue in stockinette st, and inc every 3 rows – see Increasing tips – a total of 21-22-23-24 times. Shoulder inc: Inc 1 st for each shoulder (alternately before and after the marker) every other row a total of 3 times. Side dec: When the piece measures 9-7-6-5 cm dec 1 st at each side (alternately before and after the marker) every 9-7-6-5 cm a total of 5-7-9-11 times. After all incs and decs are complete there are 148-152-156-162 sts. The poncho measures approx. 59-62-65-68 cm from neck and down along shoulders, and approx. 74-78-81-85 cm from neck and down center front. P 1 row (right side) and then bind off. So that the points will not roll, K 2 sts in each of the 2 sts at the center (in Size XL knit 2 sts in each st at each side of the center st) and bind off both sts. Crocheted flowers: Make 3 flowers for decoration on poncho. Large blossom: Ch 4 with natural Cotton Viscose and join into a ring with 1 sl st. 1st row: 1 sc in ring, * ch 2, 1 sc in ring *, repeat from * - * a total of 7 times and finish with ch 2 and 1 sl st in 1st sc at start of row = 8 ch-loops. 2nd row: ch 1, crochet as follows in each ch-loop: * 1 sc, 2 dc, 1 sc *, and finish with 1 sl st in first sc at start of row. Turn piece – blossom is completed from back side. 3rd row: ch 1, * 1 sc in sc from 1st row (crochet on back side of petal around sts from previous row, pull yarn tight), ch 3 *, repeat * - * a total of 8 times and finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc at start of row. 4th row: ch 1, crochet as follows in each ch-loop: * 1 sc, 4 dc, 1 sc *, and finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc at start of row. 5th row: ch 1, * 1 sc in sc from 3rd row (crochet on back side of the 2 petals around sts from previous row, pull yarn tight), ch 4 *, repeat * - * a total of 8 times and finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc at start of row. 6th row: ch 1, crochet as follows in each ch-loop: * 1 sc, 6 dc, 1 sc *, and finish with 1 sl st in 1st sc at start of row. Cut yarn and fasten. Medium blossom: Crochet a small blossom in natural Cotton Viscose as follows: Ch 4 and join into a ring with 1 sl st. 1st row: 1 sc in ring, * ch 5, 1 sc in ring *, repeat * - * a total of 15 times (the loops will fit tightly in the ring) and finish with ch 5 and 1 sl st in 1st sc at start of row = 16 ch-loops. Cut yarn and fasten. Then crochet a larger blossom in light beige Cotton Viscose as follows: Ch 5 and join into a ring with 1 sl st. 1st row: 1 sc in ring, * ch 10, 1 sc in ring *, repeat * - * a total of 19 times (the loops will fit tightly in the ring) and finish with ch 10 and 1 sl st in 1st sc at start of row = 20 ch-loops. Cut yarn and fasten. Lay the smaller natural blossom on the light beige blossom and sew together. Small blossom: Crochet the same as the larger blossom in the Medium blossom instructions. Sew flowers on the collar – see photo for placement. |
|
Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogs and 11422 patterns - 11417 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (53)
Marie wrote:
Wird an den Schultern nur dreimal zugenommen und dann gar nicht mehr? Erfolgen die Zunahmen dann nur vorn und hinten mit insgesamt 4 Maschen in jeder 3. Runde?
11.09.2014 - 23:00DROPS Design answered:
Ja ganz genau!
12.09.2014 - 08:55Katja wrote:
Wieviel Wollknäuel brauche ich je Garn? Vienna? Eskimo?
16.08.2014 - 22:09DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Katja, die Mengenangaben finden Sie neben dem Foto. Allerdings wird Vienna jetzt aus dem Programm genommen, Sie müssen also schauen, ob Ihr Dropswolleladen noch Bestände hat oder Sie suchen sich ein Alternativgarn aus.
17.08.2014 - 12:30Triplet wrote:
Bonjour Ce modèle me plait beaucoup, mais étant forte serait-il possible de l'avoir en taille au-dessus soit XXXL/XXXXL. Merci beaucoup
11.06.2014 - 19:05DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Triplet, ce modèle n'est disponible que jusqu'au XL/XXL, comparez les mesures du schéma avec un vêtement analogue que vous avez et qui vous va. Vous pouvez recalculer le modèle pour votre taille ou choisir un modèle plus récent disponible dans une taille plus grande. Bon tricot!
12.06.2014 - 08:42Sophie Millot wrote:
Bonjour, je ne comprends pas les explications, notamment la phrase concernant les positions des marqueurs sur le tricot pour faire ensuite les augmentations. Je suis bloquée pour continuer le tricot car ça ne colle pas. Je ne vois pas non plus à quoi correspondent les côtés. Merci de me donner quelques détails si c'est possible.
24.02.2014 - 17:08DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Millot, la phrase pour les marqueurs a été modifiée pour une meilleure compréhension: placez le 1er marqueur au début du tour, puis tricotez 17-20 m (cf taille ), placez le 2ème marqueur (dans la 4ème taille, placez le dans la m suiv = 21ème m), puis tricotez encore 17-20 m, placez le 3ème marqueur, puis encore 17-20 m et placez le dernier marqueur (dans la 21ème m en taille XL/XXL). Vous avez ainsi 4 marqueurs espacés de 17-18-19-20 m. Bon tricot!
25.02.2014 - 09:28Agathe wrote:
Bonjour, je suis dans la réalisation du Poncho, et arrive à la partie jersey. En me plongeant dans les explications d'augmentation et de diminution je ne comprends pas comment en partant des 68 mailles on arrivent au 148 finales ... Serait il possible de reprendre chacunes des étapes d'augmentation et de diminution avec le total de mailles ajoutées/enlevées. Merci beaucoup, Tricotement vôtre,
04.08.2013 - 17:28DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Agathe, quand vous avez ajusté à 68 m, vous placez 4 marqueurs et augm. 21 x 4 m (1 m de chaque côté des marqueurs milieu devant et milieu dos) soit 84 augm. + 3 x 1 m avant/après le marqueur sur les côtés (=6 augm) et diminuez 5 x 1 m avant après le marqueur sur les côtés (= 10 dim) = 148 m. Bon tricot !
05.08.2013 - 09:39Myriam wrote:
Je suis décu car la forme de ce poncho en bas n'est pas du tt la mm que sur la photo, mais plustot celle du dessin en trait en bas des explications et c'est loin d'etre aussi jolie que sur la photo ... y a t'il une couture à faire ou un séchage particulier pour obtenir la jolie forme de la photo ?
09.04.2013 - 09:39DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Myriam, si vous avez bien les mesures du schéma, c'est bien le poncho en photo Le col est retourné sur l'envers et peut effectivement jouer sur les côtés. Vous pouvez effectivement le laver et le faire sécher aux mesures du schéma pour lui donner la forme finale. Bon tricot !
10.04.2013 - 08:59Myriam wrote:
Bonjour, merci pour votre aide. par contre, pour les ajout de mailles, qd j'avais fait comme dans l'explication, cela fesait de gros trous pas tres jolis... alors j'ai refait en faisant la mèthode suivante : piquer avec l'aiguille gauche dans la maille entre les 2 aiguilles d'avant en arrière, ensuite je tricote cette maille à l'endroit mais en piquant non pas comme d'habitude mais en piquant dans le fil arrière de cette maille. et la je n'ai pas de trou et c'est bcp plus jolie.
05.04.2013 - 14:52Myriam wrote:
Bonjour, j'ai débuté ce modèle que je trouve magnifique, par contre, j'ai peur de m'etre trompée : il faut tricoter la laine vienna en jersey (1 rang env, 1 rang end), mais vu que l'on est en circulaire, ne faut il pas tricoter que des mailles endroit sur chaque rang pour faire le dessin du jersey ? merci pour votre aide.
01.04.2013 - 17:49DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Myriam, pour tricoter du jersey en rond, on tricote effectivement tous les rangs à l'endroit. Si vous tricotez 1 tour end, 1 tour env, vous obtenez du point mousse. Bon tricot !
02.04.2013 - 09:44Jette Hjortlycke wrote:
I opskriften står der at man skal slå om på de midterste 4 masker, vil det sige at de 4 masker bliver til 8, og at man udtager med 8 masker på en omgang. Mvh Jette
12.11.2012 - 07:27DROPS Design answered:
Du skal tage ud ved at slå om på hver side af de 4 midterste m både foran og bagpå. Se også rettelsen! God fornøjelse!
12.11.2012 - 15:21Litta Andersen wrote:
Jeg har problemer når jeg tager ud, midt for og bag, ved at slå om. Hullerne bliver alt for store. Har jeg misforstået noget i opskriften?? Mvh Litta
15.03.2012 - 10:48DROPS Design answered:
Du kan altid lave hullerne mindre hvis du strikker omslaget drejet ret eller vrang, dvs du strikker i bagerste maskebue. Se gerne vores instruktionsvideo som viser drejet ret. God fornøjelse!
16.03.2012 - 15:33