DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 66.10£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

Snow Flake Sweater

Knitted jumper in DROPS Merino Extra Fine and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked sideways with cables, lace pattern, double neck and split in sides. Sizes XS - XXL.

DROPS 243-32
DROPS Design: Pattern me-271
Yarn group B + A
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SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

YARN:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
550-600-650-700-800-850 g colour 39, ice blue
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-150-175-175-200-225 g colour 07, light sky blue

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm circular needle in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 66.10£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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EDGE STITCH (worked back and forth):
Work either 1 or 2 edge stitches at the beginning and end of the rows as described in
the text. These stitches are knitted from both the right and wrong side (garter stitch).

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.
A.X and A.Y show the increases for the cables.

INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Start 1 stitch before the marker-thread, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

ITALIAN CAST-OFF:
Sew Italian cast-off to give an elastic edge. The strand-ends that are used for this must be a least 4 times longer than the piece which is to be cast off.

Start by “locking” the 1st stitch as follows: Insert the needle into the 1st stitch as if to purl and tighten. Do not slip the stitch from the needle. Insert the needle from the back between the 1st and 2nd stitch so that the strand comes to the front, pull the strand through, insert the needle into the 2nd stitch as if to knit, pull the strand through. Insert the needle into the into the 1st stitch as if to knit, pull the strand through, then slip the 1st stich off the needle.

Insert the needle into the 2nd stitch as if to purl, pull the strand through, insert the needle into the 1st stitch as if to purl, pull the thread through then slip the 1st stitch off the needle (the strand is now at the back of the work).
From the back, insert the needle between the 1st and 2nd stitch, pull the strand through. From the front, insert the needle into the 2nd stitch as if to knit, pull the strand through, insert the needle into the 1st stitch as if to knit, pull the strand through, slip the 1st stitch from the needle.

Now start casting off in rib.
1: When casting off a purled stitch, sew as follows: Insert the needle into the 2nd stitch (a knitted stitch) as if to purl, pull the strand through, Insert the needle into the 1st stitch (a purled stitch) as if to purl, pull the strand through, slip 1st stitch from the needle (the strand is now at back of piece).

2: When casting off a knitted stitch, sew as follows: From the back, insert the needle between 1st and 2nd stitch, pull the strand through. From the front, insert the needle into the 2nd stitch (a purled stitch) as if to knit, pull the strand through, insert the needle into the 1st stitch as if to knit, pull the strand through, slip 1st stitch from the needle.
Repeat directions 1 and 2 until all stitches are cast off (the last 2 stitches are cast off in the same way even though they are both knitted stitches). Pull the strand through the last stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The front and back pieces are worked as one large piece, sideways from right to left. Stitches are cast off for the neckline in the middle and the front and back pieces continued separately until the neckline is finished, then joined again and finished as one piece.
The sleeves are worked in the round, bottom up. The piece is sewn together and stitches knitted up for the rib around the bottom.
The neck is worked to finish.

RIGHT SIDE OF PIECE (when the garment is worn):
Cast on 169-169-185-185-201-201 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm, 1 strand DROPS Merino Extra Fine and 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk (2 strands).
Knit 1 row from the right side, then knit 1 row from the wrong side.
Insert 1 marker in the 85th-85th-93rd-93rd-101st-101st stitch on the row. The first 84-84-92-92-100-100 stitches from the right side are the front piece, the last 84-84-92-92-100-100 stitches are the back piece.
The marker-stitch marks the top of the shoulder – allow it to follow your work onwards.

Work as follows from the right side: 1 EDGE STITCH – read description above, 6 stocking stitches, A.1, 21-21-21-21-29-29 stocking stitches, A.X, A.1, 61-61-77-77-77-77 stocking stitches (marker sits in the 31st-31st-39th-39th-39th-39th of these stitches), A.1, A.Y, 21-21-21-21-29-29 stocking stitches, A.1, 6 stocking stitches, 1 edge stitch = 177-177-193-193-209-209 stitches. Work back from the wrong side with knit over knit and purl over purl.

Work as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch, 6 stocking stitches, A.1, A.2A, work A.2B 1-1-1-1-2-2 times, A.2C, A.3, A.1, A.2A, work A.2B 6-6-8-8-8-8 times, A.2C, A.1, A.4, A.2A, work A.2B 1-1-1-1-2-2 times, A.2C, A.1, 6 stocking stitches, 1 edge stitch.
Continue this pattern back and forth until there is 1 row left in the 3rd-3rd-4th-4th-5th-5th repeat in height of A.2 (the row from wrong side still unworked).
On the next row cast off for the neckline as follows: Work as before until there are 6 stitches left before the marker-stitch, cast off 16 stitches (6 stitches before the marker-stitch on the back piece, the stitch with the marker and 9 stitches after the marker-stitch on the front piece), work to end of row. The piece measures approx. 19-19-25-25-31-31 cm from the cast-on edge.
Continue the front and back pieces separately.

FRONT PIECE:
= 79-79-87-87-95-95 stitches. Continue the pattern back and forth and cast off for the neck at the beginning of each row from the wrong side as follows: 2 stitches 3 times = 73-73-81-81-89-89 stitches.
Continue the pattern back and forth until there are 6 rows left on the 6th-6th-7th-7th-8th-8th repeat in height of A.2 from the cast-on edge. Now increase for the neckline by casting on 2 stitches at the end of each row from the right side 3 times = 79-79-87-87-95-95 stitches. Work back from the wrong side. Place the stitches on a stitch holder.

BACK PIECE:
= 82-82-90-90-98-98 stitches. Start from the right side and continue the pattern back and forth. After having worked 2 rows, cast off 2 stitches for the neckline on the next row from the right side = 80-80-88-88-96-96 stitches.
Continue the pattern back and forth until there are 3 rows left on the 6th-6th-7th-7th-8th-8th repeat of A.2 from the cast-on edge (with the next row from the wrong side).
On the next row cast on 2 stitches at the end of the row for the neckline = 82-82-90-90-98-98 stitches.
On the next row from the wrong side cast on 16 stitches at the end of the row = 98-98-106-106-114-114 stitches. A.2 has now been worked 6-6-7-7-8-8 times in height.

LEFT SIDE OF THE PIECE (when the garment is worn):
Place the front and back piece on the same needle = 177-177-193-193-209-209 stitches. Start from the right side and continue the pattern.
Continue until A.2 has been worked 3-3-4-4-5-5 times in height after the neckline (9-9-11-11-13-13 times from the cast-on edge on the right side of the piece). Work 1 row as before from the right side, so the squares in A.2 are closed at the top – AT THE SAME TIME on this row decrease 2 stitches over each cable in A.3 and A.4 by knitting the stitches together 2 and 2 = 169-169-185-185-201-201 stitches.
Work back from the wrong side with knit over knit and purl over purl. Cast off with knit from right side. The piece measures approx. 54-54-66-66-78-78 cm from the cast-on edge.

RIB ON BOTTOM OF BACK PIECE:
Knit up from the right side 113-113-139-139-163-163 stitches inside 1 edge stitch with circular needle size 3.5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (2 strands). The stitch number should be divisible by 2 + 1.
Work as follows from the wrong side: 2 edge stitches, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, purl 1 and 2 edge stitches.
Work this rib back and forth for 7 cm. Sew ITALIAN CAST-OFF – read description above (or cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl). The piece measures approx. 59-59-64-64-69-69 cm from the marker on the shoulder.

RIB ON BOTTOM OF FRONT PIECE:
Work in the same way as the back piece.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 62-64-66-68-72-74 stitches with double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (2 strand). Knit 1 round. Work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1) for 7 cm. Knit 1 round and decrease 11-13-15-9-13-15 stitches evenly spaced = 51-51-51-59-59-59 stitches. Insert a marker thread at the beginning of the round and allow it to follow the piece onwards.
Change to double pointed needles size 5 mm. Knit 1 round, then work the next round as follows: 1 stocking stitch, A.5A, work A.5B 5-5-5-6-6-6 times, A.5C, 1 stocking stitch. Continue this pattern.
When the sleeve measures 10 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 12-6-4-7-3-3 cm a total of 3-5-6-4-6-7 times = 57-61-63-67-71-73 stitches.
Work until the sleeve measures approx. 43-45-40-41-36-37 cm – it is neatest to finish after round 2 or 8 in A.5. Cast off a little loosely with knit. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Insert 1 marker in both the front and back pieces, 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm down from the marker on the shoulder = armhole (measure the top of the sleeve – the armhole should match).
Sew the side seams inside the cast-off/cast-on edges (the ridge should be visible) – start under the armhole and sew down to the rib = 7 cm split in each side.
Sew in the sleeves between the markers, inside the cast-off/cast-on edges on the body (the ridge should be visible).

DOUBLE NECK:
Use short circular needle size 3.5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (2 strands). Knit up from the right side 104 to 116 stitches around the neck, inside 1 edge stitch. The stitch count should be divisible by 2. Work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1) for 14-14-15-15-16-16 cm. Cast off with rib.
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 27.09.2023
BACK PIECE: Number of stitches on neckline in size XL and XXL edited.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over which is purled on the next row (wrong side) to leave a hole
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over which is purled twisted on the next row (wrong side) to avoid a hole
symbols = place 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbols = place 1 stitch on cable needle behind the piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 1, insert right needle from back and between the 2 stitches on the cable needle, knit the left stitch, do not slip the stitch from the needle, knit the right stitch so it lies diagonally over the other 2 stitches, slip both stitches from the cable needle
symbols = slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch,
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = knitting direction
symbols = sketch shows front and back pieces in knitting direction
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Dorota Lagoda wrote:

Witam Mam problem ze zrozumieniem opisu. Dopiero zaczynam projekt i już pojawił się kłopot . Nie rozumiem, który schemat należy powtórzyć 6 razy( rozmiar S)- A2A czy A2B? Żaden nich mi nie pasuje przy liczbie 177 oczek i ilosci 6 powtórzeń. Pozdrawiam

29.01.2024 - 16:57

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Doroto, musisz powtórzyć 6 razy schemat A.2B. Powodzenia!

29.01.2024 - 18:36

country flag Florence Garrigues wrote:

Bonjour, je voudrais tricoter le modèle 243-32 mais je ne comprends pas l'explication du diagramme A2B. merci beaucoup de votre aide.

01.01.2024 - 14:35

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Garrigues, vous commencez le diagramme A.2 par A.2A, au 7ème rang, tricotez les 2 dernières mailles de A.2A avec la 1ère maille de A.2B: les 2 mailles glissée sont celles de A.2A, la maille tricotée celle de B, ainsi, la dernière des 2 mailles de l'aiguille à torsades est maintenant la 1ère maille de B. De même quand on répète A.2B: les 2 dernières mailles de A.2B vont être tricotées avec la 1ère du A.2B suivant (de A.2C). Placez des marqueurs entre chaque motif peut vous aider à bien suivre le motif. Bon tricot!

02.01.2024 - 12:06

country flag Juana Idigoras wrote:

Realice el sueter Snow Flake fue muy facil seguir las instrucciones, me quedo muy lindo, muchas gracias, aunque noto diferencia en A.1 con el modelo y el mio, lo hice tal y como decian las indicaciones.

10.12.2023 - 14:14

country flag Annemieke Tijsseling wrote:

IK zou graag een kruispatroon breien en heb tientallen keren de instructievideo bekeken. er wordt uitgelegd hoe je schuin van rechts naar links gaat, maar niet schuin van links naar rechts! Moet dat op de achterkant van het werk? En hoe dan? Kunnen jullie daar ook nog een video van maken? Nu ben ik genoodzaakt een ander breipatroon te kiezen. Ik kom hier niet uit.

19.11.2023 - 10:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Annemieke,

Wat bedoel je precies met een kruispatroon. In de telpatronen staat precies aangegeven wat je moet doen bij de symboolverklaring. Je kabelt steeds aan de goede kant, niet aan de verkeerde kant. De telpatronen lees je van onder naar boven en iedere naald staat aangegeven in de telpatronen, dus zowel de goede als de verkeerde kant

21.11.2023 - 23:15

country flag Helene wrote:

Bonjour, J'aime beaucoup la forme du pull mais les motif sont encore trop complexe pour moi. Existe-t-il un modèle similaire plus simple ? Merci

09.10.2023 - 13:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Hélène, retrouvez nos pulls tricotés traversalement ici, ou bien modifiez les filtres pour trouver votre modèle préféré. Bon tricot!

09.10.2023 - 16:17

country flag Cha wrote:

Hello me again!.. I have a question about the diamond shape pattern for the sleeves. Is the patten supposed to continue all around the whole sleeve? Or is the increase section meant to just be a stockinette stitch for the whole arm because I am trying to keep up with the diamond pattern but the stitch requirement do not match and I am left with a zigzag like stockinette section. Just wondering if I am doing it wrong or if it is supposed to be like this. Thankyou

20.09.2023 - 02:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Cha, the new stitches increased on each side of sleeves are worked in stocking stitch, not in the diamond pattern as explained under INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):, this means the diamond pattern will be worked over the same stitches all the way, insert markers to mark where to start each diagram, this might help when there are always more sts at the beg or end of rows. Happy knitting!

20.09.2023 - 07:52

country flag Cha wrote:

I am having trouble with the back piece. I am working a xl size The instruction states that i cast off 2 stitches =96stitches . Work the pattern till the 8th repeat of the patten then cast on 2 stitches which is supposed to equal to a total of 102 stitches? I don’t understand how that is possible where did the missing 4 stitches come from?

13.09.2023 - 12:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Cha, there seems to be a mistake in the largest sizes. We will check in with the design department and correct it as soon as possible. You should have 98 stitches, instead of 102. Happy knitting!

17.09.2023 - 23:20

country flag Grethe Haugen wrote:

Hvordan vaske denne blandingen, kid silk skal vaskes på 30 grader ullvask og ekstra fine på 40 grader normal vask, får ikke dette til å stemme helt

12.09.2023 - 11:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Grethe, Da vasker du blandingen på 30 grader ullvask (den mest skånsomme av de 2). God fornøyelse!

13.09.2023 - 07:01

country flag Danielle Factor-Consolini wrote:

Winter Shore

05.08.2023 - 04:29

country flag Mette wrote:

Winter sky

03.08.2023 - 21:06