DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 3.00 BGN /50g
DROPS Glitter
DROPS Glitter
60% Cupro, 40% Metal
from 4.00 BGN /10g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.00BGN.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS AW2425
DROPS 138-6 DROPS design: Pattern no CL-009
Yarn group B
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Size: S/M - L - XL - XXL/XXXL
Chest measurements: approx. 80-96-106-118 cm

Materials: DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
450-500-550-600 g colour no 05, light pink
And use:
DROPS GLITTER from Garnstudio
20 g (2 spools) colour no 01, gold

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 mm – or size needed to get 17 tr/dc = width 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 3.00 BGN /50g
DROPS Glitter
DROPS Glitter
60% Cupro, 40% Metal
from 4.00 BGN /10g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.00BGN.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first tr on every row with 3 ch.
Replace first dc on every round with 1 ch. Finish every dc round with 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round.
Replace first tr on every round with 3 ch. Finish every tr round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc by working 2 tr in first and last tr on row.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec at beg of row as follows: Work sl st over no of tr to be dec.
Dec at end of row as follows: When no of tr to be dec remains, turn piece.
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BACK PIECE:
Work 78-86-94-99 loose ch on hook size 4 mm with 1 thread Cotton Light and 1 thread Glitter (= 2 threads). Work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, * 1 tr in each of the next 3 ch, skip 1 ch *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 1 tr in each of the last 2-2-2-3 ch = 58-64-70-74 tr. Then work 1 tr in every tr - READ CROCHET INFO. When piece measures 7 cm, inc 1 tr in each side – READ INCREASE TIP, repeat inc when piece measures 15 cm = 62-68-74-78 tr. Work until piece measures 22-23-24-25 cm.

EDGE PIECE:
Work 1 tr in every tr on the upper side of back piece, work 56-58-60-64 ch, 1 tr in every tr from bottom side of back piece, work 56-58-60-64 ch and finish with 1 sl st in 1st tr on upper side of back piece. Work 1 tr in every tr from back piece, in ch-loops work 42-44-46-48 tr = 204-220-236-248 tr. Continue to work in the round as follows:
ROUND 1: 1 tr in first tr, * 1 ch, skip 1 tr, 1 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 ch, skip 1 tr and work 1 sl st on beg of round.
ROUND 2: 1 dc in every tr and 1 dc in every ch.
ROUND 3: 1 dc in every dc.
Repeat these 3 rounds, AT THE SAME TIME when edge measures 5, 10 and 15 cm (adjust so that this is a round with dc), inc 30-30-30-32 dc evenly on round – READ INCREASE TIP = 294-310-326-344 dc. When edge measures 17-18-19-20 cm (adjust so that next round is a round with dc), work 1 dc row while AT THE SAME TIME inc 0-2-4-4 dc evenly = 294-312-330-348 dc. Then work diagram M.1. NOTE! Start to work on the row marked with 1 in the diagram. Work diagram M.1 1 time vertically, cut and fasten the thread.

SLEEVE:
Work 67-72-72-77 loose ch on hook size 4 mm with 1 thread Cotton Light and 1 thread Glitter (= 2 threads). Work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook (= 2 tr), * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* and finish by skipping 1 ch and work 1 tr in each of the last 2 ch = 52-56-56-60 tr. Work 1 tr in every tr back and forth, AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 tr in each side on every row a total of 13-14-16-17 times, read INCREASE TIP = 78-84-88-94 tr.
When piece measures 24-24-22-20 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of broader shoulder width), dec for sleeve cap in each side on every row - READ DECREASE TIP: 4 tr 1 time, then 3-3-2-2 tr in each side until piece measures 31-33-33-34 cm, now dec 4 tr 1 time in each side. Cut and fasten the thread. Sew under arm seam with neat little stitches. Work around the bottom of sleeve as follows:
Work 1 round with 1 dc in every tr, while at the same time inc 2-4-4-0 dc evenly = 54-60-60-60 dc. Then work diagram M.1 1 time vertically. Cut and fasten the thread.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew in sleeves.


This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 06.03.2012
SLEEVE:
...AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 tr in each side on every row a total of 13-14-16-17 times..

Diagram

symbols = dc
symbols = ch
symbols = tr
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (187)

country flag Lotta wrote:

Det står att man ska ha 204 maskor runt kanten och sen öka 30 jämnt fördelat över varvet = 294 maskor. ska man öka 30st till 234st eller 90 till 294st mvh Lotta

20.06.2019 - 19:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lotta. Du skal øke 30 fastmasker, og dette skal du gjøre 3 ganger: første gang når arbeidet måler 5 cm, neste gang når det måler 10 cm, og siste gang når det måler 15 cm - altså hver 5 cm. Hver gang du øker skal du øke 30 fastmasker jevnt fordel. Når du har økt 3 ganger har du derfor økt tilsammen 90 fastmasker. God fornøyelse

21.06.2019 - 13:36

country flag Emma Allard wrote:

I've just completed the first part of the edge piece.. dc upper and lower piece and dc on chain. I'm now starting the rounds. Do i start rounds with a chain 3 or a double crochet. Thanks for help.

12.05.2019 - 13:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Allard, you replace now the first dc at the beg of every round with 3 chains - see CROCHET INFO. Happy crocheting!

13.05.2019 - 09:27

country flag Emma Allard wrote:

When checking the gauge do I crochet in dc or sc (us terms)?

08.05.2019 - 11:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Allard, make first sure you are reading the usual English (change language under picture if necessary), in UK-english tension is 17 tr/dc = 10 cm - in US-English = 17 dc/sc = 10 cm. Happy crocheting!

08.05.2019 - 12:01

country flag Emma Allard wrote:

Hiya. I'm trying to find out how much yarn to use for each size? Am I missing it? Hope you can help Thanks

23.04.2019 - 14:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Emma, please, see the header - just beside/under the main photo, where you have all info you need :-). For this pattern you need Materials: DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio 450-500-550-600 g colour no 05, light pink And use: DROPS GLITTER from Garnstudio 20 g (2 spools) colour no 01, gold First amount is for size S/M, second for L etc. (see Size: S/M - L - XL - XXL/XXXL). Happy crocheting!

23.04.2019 - 16:16

country flag Vanessa wrote:

Necesito ayuda ,me gusta mucho este bolero de ganchillo pero no entiendo la primera parte de la explicación

22.04.2019 - 19:06

country flag Vanessita wrote:

No entiendo la explicación ,podéis dar más detalles ??

22.04.2019 - 19:05

country flag Hery wrote:

Bonjour J'ai commandé 12 pelotes cotton light car je fais 114 cm de tour de poitrine.j'ai choisi le coloris 22 chez "un jour de pluie,département 77",la responsable du magasin m'envoie ma commande rapidement, j'espère m'en sortir. Merci pour vos magnifiques modèles.

26.01.2019 - 07:33

country flag Penny wrote:

Is the second round suppose to curl, and can l get back to your email?

24.01.2019 - 16:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Penny; The edge worked with M.1 is not supposed to curl - see picture. Make sure you keep correct tension. Should you need any further individual assistance please contact the store where you bought the yarn, even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

25.01.2019 - 08:31

country flag Penny wrote:

What doesM1 1time vertically mean?

24.01.2019 - 01:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Penny, you have to work the whole diagram M.1 one time. Happy crocheting!

24.01.2019 - 07:00

country flag Ines wrote:

Ich bin hier angekommen: "Diese 3 Runden wiederholen und GLEICHZEITIG nach 5, 10 und 15 cm (bei einer Runde mit fM) gleichmässig verteilt 30-30-30-32 fM aufnehmen – siehe TIPP ZUM AUFNEHMEN = 294-310-326-344 fM." Also bei 5, 10 und 15 cm in dieselbe reihe 30 zunehmen? Verteilt? So ungefähr in jede 6te fm, 2 fm häckeln? Danke

11.06.2018 - 21:34

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ines, Sie sollen 30 M. gleichmäßig verteilt zunehmen 3 Mal insgesamt wiederholen: nach 5, nach 10 und nach 15 cm. Hier lesen Sie, wie man regelmäßig verteilt zunimmt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

12.06.2018 - 08:13