DROPS 65-18
Sizes: S - M - L

Materials: DROPS COTTON-VISCOSE from Garnstudio
350-400-450 g col. no.. 17, beige.

DROPS Circular needles and double pointed needles sizes 3 and 4.

6 DROPS Mother-of-pearl buttons: no 521.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Gauge: 24 sts x 32 rows on needles size 3 and stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm [4" x 4"].

Seed stitch (on an even number of sts):
Row 1: * K 1, P 1 *
Row 2: * P 1, K 1 *
repeat these two rows.
Seed stitch (on an odd number of sts): All rows: K 1, *P 1, K 1*

Pattern: See chart, one chart = 1 repeat. The pattern is shown from the right side.

Buttonholes: 1 buttonhole = bind off the 3rd and 4th edge sts from the center front, cast on 2 new sts over the bound-off sts on the next row.
Bind off for buttonholes when the work measures: 3-4-5 cm, 9-10-11 cm, 15-16-17 cm, 21-22-23 cm, 27-28-29 cm and 33-34-35 cm.

Tip for binding off: All binding off for the neck takes place from the right side. Bind off as follows before 5 edge sts: K 2 tog, Bind off as follows after 5 edge sts: lift 1 st off the needles, K 1, pull the lifted st over.

BODY
Knit the cardigan back and forth on circular needles from the center front. Cast on 215-227-251 sts (including 5 edge sts at each side at the center front) on circular needles size 4 with beige. Knit Pattern 1 - with 5 sts of moss-st at each side at the center front = front edge. Knit buttonholes along the right front edge - see above. After Pattern 1, switch to circular needles size 3 and at the same time inc 12-12-12 sts evenly distributed on the 1st row = 227-239-263 sts. Knit Pattern 3, and then knit the rest with Pattern 4. When the work measures 29-30-31 cm, knit the next row as follows: 55-58-64 sts front, bind off 6 sts for armhole, 105-111-123 sts back, bind off 6 sts for armhole, 55-58-64 sts front. Knit the rest of each part separately.

Right Front: = 55-58-64 sts. Now bind off for armholes every other row: 2 sts 3-4-5 times, 1 st 3-3-5 times = 46-47-49 sts. At the same time, when the work measures 33-34-35 cm, bind off for the neck inside 5 edge sts every other row - see Tip for binding off: 1 st 19-20-20 times = 27-27-29 sts remain on the shoulder. Bind off when the work measures 48-50-52 cm.

Left Front: Knit like the right but reversed - see Tip for binding off at the neck edge!

Back: = 105-111-123 sts. Bind off for armholes as on the front = 87-89-93 sts. When the work measures 45-47-49 cm, knit 5 rows of moss-st over the center 41-43-43 sts (the remaining sts are knitted into the pattern). On the next row, bind off the center 31-33-33 sts for the neck - knit the remaining outermost 5 sts at the neck in moss-st. Then bind off 1 st on the next row for the neck inside these 5 edge sts - see Tip for binding off! = 27-27-29 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off when the work measures 48-50-52 cm.

SLEEVE
Cast on 72-72-84 sts on double pointed needles size 4 with beige. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 and knit Pattern 2, Pattern 3, and then knit the rest with Pattern 4.
At the same time, after Pattern 2, inc 2 sts directly under the sleeve 4-6-3 times every 9th-6th-11th row = 80-84-90 sts. When the work measures 15-15-14 cm, bind off 6-6-6 sts directly under the sleeve and knit the rest back and forth on the needles. Then bind off at each side for sleeve cap every other row: 3 sts 1-1-1 time, 2 sts 3-3-3 times, 1 st 8-10-11 times, 2 sts 3-3-3 times, 3 sts 1-1-1 time. Bind off; the work now measures approx. 25-26-26 cm.

ASSEMBLY
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in the sleeves. Sew on the buttons.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 27.08.2009
Sleeve: ... At the same time, after Pattern 2, inc 2 sts directly under the sleeve 4-6-3 times every 9th-6th-11th row = 80-84-90 sts.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K
symbols = p
symbols = yo
symbols = lift 1 st off the needles, K 2 tog, pull the lifted st over.
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Susanne wrote:

Der Maschenanschlag passt nicht mit dem Muster überein. M1 geht über 12 Maschen, wiederhole ich es 17x sind das 204 Maschen. Dazu an jeder Seite 5 Maschen im Perlmuster = 214 und nicht 215. Wo ist mein Denkfehler?

16.04.2023 - 12:35

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Susanne, am Ende der Reihe, vor den 5 Blenden-Maschen stricken Sie die 1. Masche M.1, so wird das Muster symmetrisch sein, dh so: 5 Blenden-Maschen, die 12 M in M.1 insgesamt 17 Mal wiederholen, die erste Masche M.1 stricken und mit 5 Blenden-Maschen enden; Viel Spaß beim stricken!

17.04.2023 - 09:35

country flag Mercedes Álvarez wrote:

Para la manga : aumentar 2 puntos bajo la manga ? Que quiere decir ? Donde tengo que aumentar ? Un punto a cada lado ? O en el centro ?

30.03.2022 - 14:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Mercedes, es disminuir 2 puntos bajo la manga. Como hacerlo mira TIP PARA LAS DISMINUCIONES (para las mangas). Saludos!

31.03.2022 - 09:26

country flag Isabel Fernández Vicioso wrote:

He realizado una talla mas de la que viene en las instrucciones y ha quedado genial!!!, PRECIOSO!!!

20.10.2021 - 14:18

country flag Lilly wrote:

Jag har 300 g Cotton Viscose kvar (har förstått att garnet utgått). Jag tänkte sticka denna i strl S. Tror ni garnmängden räcker om jag kortar ned ärmarna något?

23.03.2020 - 12:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lilly, Du kan ju sticka ärmarna uppifrån och ner, så ser du hur långa du kan få dom :)

25.03.2020 - 08:00

country flag Geri wrote:

Hallo, ich möchte dieses Modell gerne mit dem Garn DROPS Baby Merino stricken. Ist das Garn gut geeignet? Ich vermute, dass ich dann eine andere Maschen- und auch Reihenzahl benötige. Wie rechne ich das am besten um? Können sie mir dabei helfen?\r\nOder ist ein anderes Garn wesentlich besser geeignet?

14.01.2020 - 19:00

country flag Denise wrote:

By size 3 needle do you mean US 3 or 3mm? Also, the numbers of stitches do not add up at all. The pattern is units of 12 sts, and there are 10 sts for the bands, 5 on each side. This will never be an odd number but the chart has odd numbers all over. 251 sts for the large size, minus 10 edge stitches is 241, divided by 12 sts in the pattern chart means the pattern is used 20.08 times. If the pattern is used 20 times, that would be times 12, equlas 240 st, plus 10 edge sts is 250, not 251.

10.10.2019 - 20:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Denise, the needle size are here 3 mm/US 2,5 and 4 mm/US6. When working diagram over 251 sts work as follows: 5 band sts, repeat M.1 in width a total of 20 times, work now the first stitch in M1 (so that pattern is symetrical inside front band edges), 5 band stitches = 5 + 12x20 + 1 + 5 = 251 sts. Happy knitting!

11.10.2019 - 09:01

country flag Lynn wrote:

I have just started this pattern and am already confused! Why oh why do you make them so complicated when they don't need to be?? The A1 chart giving the YO means that you increase by a stitch each time but no decrease to compenate for the increase, therfore you end up with too many stitches. Please explain, should there be a k2tog after this? Having read other questions on here it states that there should be 4 rows of moss stitch to start, this is not clear either!

26.07.2019 - 11:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lynn, there is decreasing to compenate YOs - see the symbol of "roof" = lift 1 st off the needles, K 2 tog, pull the lifted st over, i.e. 2 sts decrease. No more decreasing is needed. Moss st is in diagram shown in first two rows (at the bottom of diagram), where you work alternately knit and purl sts. Happy knitting!

26.07.2019 - 16:53

country flag Lynn Squire wrote:

Hi, as this yarn is discontinued can I substitute it for DROPS Belle?

16.07.2019 - 12:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Squire, DROPS Cotton Viscose is discontinued, you can find alternatives using our yarn converter. Your DROPS store will help you choosing the best matching yarn, do not hesitate to contact them even by mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

16.07.2019 - 14:51

country flag Patricia wrote:

Boa tarde Estive a fazer o diagrama M2, e pelo que percebi, as duas primeiras carreiras são ponto de arroz (carreira direito e avesso), mas na descrição do ponto de arroz diz para fazer 4 carreiras.Quantas carreiras devo fazer? Depois a terceira carreira diz para fazer em ponto meia, penso que será do lado direito, e a quarta carreira uma vez que será pelo avesso como faço a laçada e o outro ponto? Faço em ponto liga o ponto que desliza e a laçada?obrigada

23.06.2019 - 18:46

DROPS Design answered:

Bom dia, O diagrama mostra apenas as carreiras do direito da peça. Ou seja, apenas as carreiras 1, 3, 5, 7, e assim sucessivamente. (Nas carreiras pelo avesso, tricota as malhas como elas se apresentam). Sendo assim, em M,2, faz 4 carreiras em ponto de arroz, a 5. ª carreira em meia (e, pela lógica, a 6.ª carreira, que é pelo avesso, em liga), e, depois, na 7.ª carreira, tricota as laçadas e o outro ponto como indicado, porque está a tricotar uma carreira pelo direito. Bom tricô!

24.06.2019 - 13:46

country flag Carmine wrote:

Buonasera. Sto lavorando con i ferri dritti, vorrei capire se ogni rigo con i quadratini all'interno corrisponde a dritto e rovescio ovvero al solo dritto o al solo rovescio. Grazie.

20.07.2018 - 18:24

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Carmine. Nel diagramma, ogni riga corrisponde ad un ferro, quindi un ferro sul diritto oppure un ferro sul rovescio. Buon lavoro!

20.07.2018 - 19:13