DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 69-8
Sizes: S - M - L - XL
Finished measurements: 106-112-120-130 cm [41.75" - 44" - 47.25" - 51 1/8"]

Materials: DROPS PARIS
100% cotton, 50 g/75 m./82 yards
850-950-1050-1150 g. col. no. 25, moss green.

Alternate yarns:
* DROPS ALASKA, 100% pure new wool, 50 g/75 m./82 yards

DROPS 5.5 mm [US 9] needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Gauge: 16 sts x 20 rows = 10 x 10 cm [4" x 4"] in stockinette st.

Garter st, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.

Pattern:
Row 1 (right side row): Knit
Row 2: Purl
Row 3: Purl
Row 4: Purl
Row 5: Knit
Row 6: Knit
Repeat these 6 rows.

Knitting tips: Dec for the neck only on right side rows.
Right front: dec 1 st as follows: sl 1, K 1, psso.
Left front: dec 1 st as follows: K 2 tog.

Back: Cast on 86-92-98-106 sts. Knit garter st for 12 cm [4.75"], then continue with pattern- see instructions above. When the piece measures 47-48-50-51 cm [18.5" - 18 7/8" - 19.75" - 20"] bind off for armhole at each side every other row: 3 sts 1-2-2-2 times, 2 sts 2-2-3-4 times, 1 st 5-5-5-7 times = 62-62-64-64 sts. When the piece measures 66-68-70-72 cm [26" - 26.75" - 27 5/8" - 28.25"] bind off the center 24 sts for the neck. On the next row dec 1 st at each neck edge = 18-18-19-19 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off the remaining sts when the piece measures 68-70-72-74 cm [26.75" - 27 5/8" - 28.25" - 29 1/8"].

Left front: Cast on 48-51-54-58 sts. Knit garter st for 12 cm [4.75"] over all sts. Continue with pattern, but knit the 6 edge sts at the center front as follows from edge (seen from the right side): 5 sts garter st, 1 st stockinette st.
Read the entire next section before knitting.
When the piece measures 46-47-49-50 cm [18 1/8" - 18.5" - 19.25" - 19.75"] inc 2 sts inside 1 edge st at the center front for collar - knit the increased sts for collar in garter st, keeping the 1 st in stockinette st between button bands and body. On the following 2 rows knit 2 rows garter st over only the 7 button band sts (short rows). Then inc 1 st inside 1 edge st 6 times every row, then 6 times every other row and then 6 times every 4th row = 20 sts increased for collar. At the same time when the piece measures 47-48-50-51 cm [18.5" - 18 7/8" - 19.75" - 20"] bind off for armhole at the side as on back.
At the same time when the piece measures 50-51-53-54 cm [19.75" - 20" - 20 7/8" - 21.25"] dec for the neck shaping (while increasing for collar) as follows: make decs inside the 1 stockinette st + garter sts for collar. Dec 1 st 18 times every other row - see knitting tips. When the piece measures 68-70-72-74 cm [26.75" - 27 5/8" - 28.25" - 29 1/8"] bind off shoulder sts + 6 button band sts = 18-18-19-19 sts bound off. There are now 20 garter sts on the needles (collar). Continue in garter st as follows: * 2 rows garter st over all sts, 2 rows garter st over only the outermost 16 sts *, repeat from * - * until the inner edge of collar measures approx. 8 cm [3 1/8"] (the outer edge should measure 16 cm [6.25"]). Put sts on a holder.

Right front: Cast on and knit the same as the left but reverse all shaping.

Sleeve: Cast on 38-38-40-42 sts. Knit garter st for 12 cm [4.75"], then continue with pattern. When the piece measures 13-13-14-14 cm [5 1/8" - 5 1/8" - 5.5" - 5.5"] inc 1 st at each side 13-14-13-14 times every 2.5-2-2-2 cm [1" - 0.75" - 0.75" - 0.75"] = 64-66-66-70 sts. When sleeve measures approx. 46-46-44-42 cm [18 1/8" - 18 1/8" - 17.25" - 16.5"] bind off for sleeve cap at each side every other row: 3 sts 1-1-1-0 time, 2 sts 3-3-2-2 times, 1 st 4-5-7-10 times, then bind off 2 sts at each side until the piece measures 56-57-57-57 cm [22" - 22.5" - 22.5" - 22.5"] and then bind off 3 sts each side 1 time. The piece measures approx. 57-58-58-58 cm [22.5" - 22 7/8" - 22 7/8" - 22 7/8"]. Bind off the remaining sts.

Belt: Cast on 9 sts and knit garter st to desired length or until the belt measures approx. 120-130-140-150 cm [47.25" - 51 1/8" - 55 1/8" - 59"]. Bind off.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Join the collar at center back with Kitchener stitch. Sew the collar to back neckline with seam on right side of work. Sew in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams using edge sts as a seam allowance.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (58)

country flag Jeanine Ebert wrote:

Grüezi Noch eine Frage zum Ärmel. Wenn ich bei 58 cm die Maschen abkette, wieviele Maschen sollten noch auf der Nadel sein? Ich hab noch 15 Maschen das gibt ca. 7 cm in der Breite….. da geht mir das zusammen nähen nicht ganz auf….. Liebe Grüsse und danke im Voraus für die Antwort. 😊

19.12.2023 - 17:57

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Ebert, die übrige Maschenanzahl ist nicht so wichtig, was aber wichtig ist, ist die Länge vom Ärmeltopp, es muss 11-12-14-16 cm (siehe Größe und Maßskizze) sein, damit der Ärmel schön am Armloch passt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

20.12.2023 - 07:52

country flag Jeanine Ebert wrote:

Grüezi Meine Frage bezieht sich auf den Kragen. Am Schluss der Anleitung zum linken Vorderteil steht, dass die Maschen des Kragens auf eine Hilfsnadel gelegt werden müssen. Kann Mann die auch gleich abketten? Liebe Grüsse und danke im Voraus für die Antwort 😊

19.12.2023 - 17:24

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Ebert, ja die Maschen können Sie auch abketten, aber es wird besser aussehen, wenn Sie diese Maschen nicht abketten, so wird das Zusammennähen mehr unsichtbar sein. Siehe Video. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

20.12.2023 - 07:47

country flag Louise Wesson wrote:

Hello Drops team, I am knitting 69-8, doing the fronts simultaneously. I have reached the point of increasing for collar, but am confused by "Increase 2 sts inside 1 edge st at the center front of collar"--is that 1 edge stitch the same as the first edge stitch? (thus, k1, increase 2, k4, k1 in stockinette, and continue in pattern)? Thank you for your support.

06.12.2023 - 22:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Wesson, increase from RS before the last stitch on left front piece/after the first stitch on right front piece; increase first 2 sts (and work the other sts as before) then incraes 1 stitch inside this stitch. Happy knitting!

07.12.2023 - 09:12

country flag Evelyn wrote:

Het is gelukt, ik maakte een denkfout

12.11.2023 - 19:15

country flag Evelyn wrote:

Bedankt voor de reactie, maar dan brei je de 16 st 3x ipv 2x aangezien je aan de andere kant begint, dan wordt dit toch langer dan 16cm?

12.11.2023 - 17:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Evelyn,

Nee, want je breit de het rechter voorpand exact in spiegelbeeld. Op een gegeven moment brei je 2 naalden alleen over de 7 steken van de bies, dus je keert het werk na 7 steken en dan brei je terug 7 steken in ribbelsteken. Daarna brei je weer over alle steken op de naald.

13.11.2023 - 06:57

country flag Evelyn wrote:

De verkorte naalden voor de sjaalkraag linkerkant is duidelijk, maar hoe werkt dit voor de rechterkant?

11.11.2023 - 20:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Evelyn,

Voor het rechter voorpand doe je dit precies andersom, dus ook hier brei je alleen over de 7 steken van de knoopbies. Bij het ene pand zitten deze 7 steken aan het einde van de naald, bij het andere pand aan het begin van de naald.

12.11.2023 - 17:34

country flag Kerstin wrote:

In der Anleitung steht Folgendes „Mit Paris auf 5,5, 48-51-54-58 M. anschlagen (inkl 1 Randm + 6 Bordm). 12 cm Krausrippe stricken. Mit dem Muster weiterfahren. Die äussersten 6 M. wie folgt stricken (von der rechen Seite): 5 M. Krausrippe, 1 M. glatt stricken. Lesen Sie die ganze Anleitung bevor Sie weiterstricken!“ Frage: Stricke ich die 51 Maschen komplett in Krausrippe oder 5 M Krausrippe, 1 Masche glatt stricken und dann im Muster weiterstricken?

08.10.2023 - 08:11

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Kerstin, ganz am Anfang stricken Sie zuerst Krausrippen über alle Maschen, dann stricken Sie die Blenden-Maschen wie beschrieben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

09.10.2023 - 08:59

country flag Kerstin wrote:

In der Anleitung vom linken Vorderteils steht: "Die nächsten 2 R. werden nur in Krausrippe über die äussersten 7 M. gestrickt - die restlichen M. werden nicht gestrickt". Warum werden die restlichen Maschen auf der Nadel nicht gestrickt?

04.10.2023 - 10:33

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Kerstin, man strickt hier verkürzten Reihen damit der Kragen schöner liegt, so werden hier 2 Reihen über die ersten 7 Maschen gestrickt, dann stricken Sie über alle Maschen wie zuvor weiter. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

04.10.2023 - 14:00

country flag ´Kerstin wrote:

Beim linken Vorderteil steht: "Die aufgenommenen Maschen werden in Krausrippe gestrickt. Den Bord weiter in Krausrippe stricken und die 1 Masche glatt wird weiter in glatt gestrickt". Werden die übrigen Maschen auf der Nadel mit dem Muster weiter gestrickt?

04.10.2023 - 10:32

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Kerstin, ja genau :)

04.10.2023 - 14:00

country flag Kerstin wrote:

Ich fange jetzt an , das linke Vorderteil zu stricken. In der Anleitung steht Folgendes: "Innerhalb der Randmasche werden 2 Maschen für den Kragen aufgenommen". Bedeutet das ich am Anfang und am Ende jeweils aus einer Randmasche 2 Maschen mache oder stricke ich nur aus der ersten Randmasche 2 weitere Randmaschen.

04.10.2023 - 10:30

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Kerstin, diese Zunahme ist für den Kragen, so beim linken Vorderteil wird es am Anfang der Hin-Reihe, nach der 1. Masche zugenommen (bei dem rechten Vorderteil = am Ende der Hin-Reihe, vor der letzten Masche). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

04.10.2023 - 13:59