DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Sweet Rose Cardigan

Knitted DROPS jacket in garter st in "Kid-Silk" and "BabyAlpaca Silk". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 155-35
DROPS design: Pattern no ks-085
Yarn group A + A or C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-96-104-112-120-128 cm / 34½"-37 3/4"-41"-44"-47 1/4"-50½"
Full length: 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm / 24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28''-28¾''

Materials:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
100-100-125-125-150-150 g color no 03, light pink
And use:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
100-100-150-150-150-150 g color no 1306, powder

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 6 mm / US 10 – or size needed to get 15 sts x 32 rows in garter st with 1 strand of each yarn = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON NO 522: 2 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
Work pattern as follows, beg from RS:
1st-4th row = K 4 rows with 1 strand BabyAlpaca Silk and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands).
5th-8th row = K 4 rows with 1 strand Kid-Silk.
9th-10th row = K 2 rows with 1 strand BabyAlpaca Silk and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands).
11th-14th row = K 4 rows with 1 strand Kid-Silk.
Repeat rows 1 to 14.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by working 2 sts in 1 st.
When inc 2 sts in each side, inc by working 2 sts in each of the first 2 and 2 last sts on needle.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st inside 1 edge st by K 2 sts tog.
Dec 2 st inside 1 edge st by K 3 sts tog.

MEASURING TIP:
To make left and right front piece the same width it is important to measure when piece is flat.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. Beg from RS and dec as follows: K 48-51-52-55-57-60, 1 YO, K 2 tog, K 7-7-7-7-7-7, 1 YO, K 2 tog, and K the rest of row. On next row K YOs.
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JACKET:
Worked sideways back and forth on needle.

LEFT SLEEVE + BODY:
Beg at the edge of sleeve, cast on new sts for front piece and back piece and work until mid front.
Loosely cast on 48-52-54-58-60-64 sts on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with 1 strand BabyAlpaca Silk and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above. On next row (from RS) work PATTERN - see explanation above REMEMBER THE GAUGE! AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 3-2-4-3-3-2 cm / 1 1/8"-3/4"-1½"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-3/4", inc 1 st in each side of piece from RS - READ INCREASE TIP! Continue same inc in each side of piece approx. every 1½-1½-1-1-1-1 cm / ½"-½"-3/8"-3/8"-3/8"-3/8" 5 more times (= 6 times in total) = 60-64-66-70-72-76 sts on needle and piece measures 11-10-9-8-8-7 cm / 4 3/8"-4"-3½"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-2 3/4". Continue as before, but now inc 1 st in each side of piece on every row from RS 7-7-7-7-5-5 times and then 2 sts in each side of piece on every row from RS 1-1-1-1-2-2 times (= 15-15-15-15-15-15 sts inc in total in each side from beg and 78-82-84-88-90-94 sts on needle). Piece now measures 16-15-14-13-12-11 cm / 6 1/4"-6"-5½"-5 1/8"-4 3/4"-4 3/8". On the next 2 rows loosely cast on 56-57-59-60-62-63 new sts at the end of every row = 190-196-202-208-214-220 sts. NOTE! Adjust pattern to cast on new sts on 2 rows in pattern with 2 strands. Continue back and forth with pattern as before until piece measures 32-33-33-34-35-36 cm / 12½"-13"-13"-13 3/8"-13 3/4"-14 1/4" in total. On next row from RS work the first 92-95-98-99-102-105 sts before slipping them on a stitch holder for back piece. Then bind off the next 3-3-3-5-5-5 sts for neck, insert a marker in the middle of the last bind off st and next st (= mid on top of shoulder), bind off the next 9 sts = 86-89-92-95-98-101 sts remain on left front piece. Then continue pattern as before AT THE SAME TIME bind off sts for neck on every row from RS as follows: bind off 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 7-7-7-7-6-6 times, and 2 sts 1-1-2-2-4-4 (= 27-27-29-29-30-30 sts bind off) = 59-62-63-66-68-71 sts remain. Slip the remaining sts on a stitch holder for band.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Loosely cast on 59-62-63-66-68-71 sts on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with 1 strand of each yarn (= 2 strands). K 1 row from WS. Then work pattern as before, AT THE SAME TIME cast on new sts for neck at the end of every row from WS as follows: Cast on 2 new sts 1-1-2-2-4-4-times, 3 sts 7-7-7-7-6-6 times and 4 sts 1 time (= 27-27-29-29-30-30 sts inc in total) = 86-89-92-95-98-101 sts on needle. Put piece aside and knit the back piece.

BACK PIECE AND RIGHT SLEEVE:
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Slip sts from stitch holder back on needle and work back piece before slipping sts from right front piece on to same needle and working them. Then work right sleeve.
Slip the 92-95-98-99-102-105 sts from stitch holder on back piece back on needle and continue with pattern from WS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st at beg of row for neck – READ DECREASE TIP! = 91-94-97-98-101-104 sts remain on needle. Continue with pattern until piece measures 11-11-12-12-13-13 cm / 4 3/8''-4 3/8''-4¾''-4¾''-5 1/8''-5 1/8'' from marker mid on top of shoulder. NOTE! Jacket will be wider when used so it is important not to make it too long in the back of neck. At the end of next row from RS, inc 1 st for neck at the end of row by working 2 sts in last st = 92-95-98-99-102-105 sts on needle. NOTE! Adjust according to pattern on right front piece here to beg on same row in pattern on next row from RS on both front and back piece.
On next row from RS work all sts on needle before casting on 12-12-12-14-14-14 sts for neck at the end of row. Then work all sts from stitch holder (right front piece) = 190-196-202-208-214-220 sts.
Continue over all sts until piece measures 44-48-52-56-60-64 cm / 17 1/4"-19"-20½"-22"-23 5/8"-25 1/4" in total at the bottom of back piece - adjust pattern so that next row is a row in pattern with 2 strands. At beg of the next 2 rows, loosely bind off 56-57-59-60-62-63 sts = 78-82-84-88-90-94 sts remain. Then dec sts for sleeve the same way as inc sts for left sleeve as follows:
Bind off/dec sts in each side of piece at beg of the next rows as follows: bind off 2 sts in each side of piece 1-1-1-1-2-2 times and 1 st 7-7-7-7-5-5 times. Continue as before but now dec 1 st in each side of piece approx. every 1½-1½-1-1-1-1 cm / ½"-½"-3/8"-3/8"-3/8"-3/8" 6 times in total = 48-52-54-58-60-64 sts remain. Continue with pattern and adjust length according to left sleeve. Work 1 ridge with 1 strand of each yarn. Work 1 row and loosely bind off.

BAND AND NECK EDGE:
Beg from RS along cast-on edge on right front piece and pick up 59-62-63-66-68-71 sts with 1 strand of each yarn on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10. Continue to pick up approx. 70-90 sts around neck edge, and work the 59-60-63-66-68-71 sts from stitch holder (i.e. sts on left front piece). K 1 row from WS. Continue with 3 ridges - AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS dec for BUTTONHOLES – see explanation above!

ASSEMBLY:
Fold at the top of shoulder, sew underarm and side seams in one, in outer loops of edge sts. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 03.04.2014
New yarn amount: DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
100-100-125-125-150-150 g colour no 03, light pink
And use:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
100-100-150-150-150-150 g colour no 1306, powder

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knitting direction
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (18)

country flag Catherine Dahl wrote:

How much yarn in yards or metres do I need for the XXL ? Please in English...?

30.03.2021 - 15:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Catherine, if you wantto use a different DROPS yarn to knit this sweater, our Yarn Converter will help you to calculate the necessary amount. Happy Knitting!

30.03.2021 - 19:53

country flag Jutta Riepshoff wrote:

Hallo Hätten Sie einen Tip für mich wie man am besten bei dem Strickstück die neu angesetzten Fäden am besten '' unsichtbar'' vernähen kann? Viele Grüße Jutta

07.02.2021 - 18:05

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Riepshoff, hier finden Sie Videos, wo man zeigt, wie die Fäden vernäht werden können. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

08.02.2021 - 10:28

country flag Jutta wrote:

Ist bei der Jacke unten kein Bündchen?

02.02.2021 - 16:06

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Jutta, es gibt tatsächlick kein Bündchen an der unteren Rand (= Randmaschen beidseitig krausrechts gestrickt). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

02.02.2021 - 16:46

country flag Mrs G Tweed wrote:

I am concerned the mohair yarn will be itchy. Please would you advise which yarn I could use to replace it?

05.05.2019 - 18:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Tweed, you will read more about alternatives here - for any assistance choosing the best matching alternative, please contact your DROPS store even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

06.05.2019 - 10:59

country flag Irene wrote:

Jeg vil gerne lave den bare ikke af den farve. Kan du sige mig hvilken garn kan passe sammen med Drops Kid-Silk 08? Er der Drops BabyAlpaca Silk 8112? Eller 6235? Det er lidt svært at vurdere på skærmen.

25.01.2017 - 19:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Irene. Her kan jeg desvaerre ikke hjaelpe dig. Du kan kontakte din DROPS butik med dette spörgsmaal. De har tit garnet liggende og kan hjaelpe dig med at finde den rette kombination. God förnöjelse.

26.01.2017 - 11:36

country flag Solrun Di Vecchia wrote:

Tak for svar. Har stadig problemer. Har strikket venstre ærme plus forstykke. Har strikket højre forstykke. Det er ganske kort? Rygstykke og højre ærme består ad de 102 m. på tråden plus m. fra højre forstykke?

03.08.2015 - 15:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Solrun, Ja men du er så nødt til at tage ind så ærmet bliver smallere, nøjagtig som du gjorde i den anden side, bare modsat (hvor du tog ud da du strikkede det første ærme). Prøv gerne at få hjælp i butikken hvor du købte garnet. Held og lykke!

04.08.2015 - 15:53

country flag Solrun Di Vecchia wrote:

Jeg finder opskriften temmelig uforståelig efter højre forstykke? Rygstk. og Højre ærme - der snakkes om at sætte tråden tilbage på p og bagstrykket strikkes ....... Nu har man jo 2 dele på tråd, så er det de 68 m. (XXL) der sættes først på og så strikkes højre ærme???? det har man jo ikke strikket endnu? Skal jeg blot sætte maskerne fra højre FORSTK. ind her? Bedste hilsener, Solrun

30.07.2015 - 09:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Solrun, Jeg ved ikke helt hvor du er i opskrften, så jeg forklarer fra starten. Du starter med venstre ærme, slår nye m op til forstk i den ene side og til rygstk i den anden side. Strikker ifølge opskriften, lukker af til hals, sætter rygstykket på en tråd, strikker forstykket færdig. Nu strikker du det andet forstykke. Fortsætter med bagstykket, sætter m fra højre forstykke ind på samme pind og fortsætter med højre ærme. God fornøjelse!

30.07.2015 - 10:32

country flag Tina wrote:

Fertig! Ein Hauch von nichts in Natur mit schönen alten Permuttknöpfen, die ich noch hatte. Vielen Dank mal wieder für die Anleitung. Ich liebe diese leichten und dennoch warmen Teile - bitte weiter so!

22.04.2015 - 22:15

country flag Tone W. Tolfsby wrote:

Hei! Jeg lurer på hvorfor mine gamle favoritter er borte? Kan man finne tilbake til dem? De tilhører samme e-postadresse som nå. Hilsen Tone

23.03.2015 - 13:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Tone. Vi opdaterede og forbedrede favoritsiden for en maaneds tid siden. Det betöd desvaerre at alle favoriter blev slettet, saa du bliver nödt til at finde dem igen og tilföje. Undskyld ulejligheden.

23.03.2015 - 14:41

country flag Nicole wrote:

Bin gerade am Stricken, die Jacke wird wunderschön! Eine Frage jedoch: wie kann man den zweiten Fäden mitführen, wenn man im Muster nur mit einem strickt und am Anfang der Reihe für den Ausschnitt abkettet? Gibt es da einen Trick?

09.09.2014 - 15:08

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Nicole, wenn im Muster 2 Krausrippen mit Kid-Silk gestrickt werden (5.-8. R) können Sie den Faden BabyAlpaca Silk auf der Rückseite verkreuzen. Achten Sie darauf, dass die Fäden bei der Schräge weder zu fest noch zu locker gespannt sind.

09.10.2014 - 12:05