DROPS Polaris
DROPS Polaris
100% Wool
from 5.65 $ /100g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 56.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 151-31
DROPS design: Pattern no po-065
Yarn group F
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Materials:
DROPS POLARIS from Garnstudio
1000-1100-1300-1400-1500-1700 g color no 05, taupe

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32’’) SIZE 15 mm / US 19 - or size needed to get 7 sts x 8 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Polaris
DROPS Polaris
100% Wool
from 5.65 $ /100g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 56.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

TIP FOR SWITCHING YARN:
When switching ball with Polaris, split the old strand in two on the last 15 cm / 6’’ – cut off one part, do the same on the new strand. Place the first and last 15 cm / 6’’ on top of each other so that the yarn is the normal thickness and continue to work – this is done to make the strand switch invisible in the yarn.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st from RS by making 1 YO, on next row P YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec inside 1 edge st in garter st. All dec are done from RS!
Dec before 1 edge st as follows: K 2 tog.
Dec after 1 edge st as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
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RIGHT FRONT PIECE + SLEEVE:
To make room for all sts work piece back and forth on circular needle with 1 edge st in GARTER ST in the side – see explanation above! READ TIP FOR SWITCHING YARN! Cast on 21-22-24-25-27-29 sts on circular needle size 15 mm / US 19 with Polaris. On first row from RS work as follows: PATTERN according to diagram A.3 over the first 12 sts (= band), 8-9-11-12-14-16 sts in stockinette st, inc 1 st inside 1 edge st - READ INCREASE TIP, and finish with 1 edge st in garter st = 22-23-25-26-28-30 sts.
Continue with stockinette st and A.3 over band, AT THE SAME TIME on every other row (i.e. every row from RS) inc 1 st inside 1 edge st until 6 inc in total have been done = 27-28-30-31-33-35 sts. Continue in A.3 and stockinette st until piece measures 27-28-30-32-33-35 cm / 10½”-11”-11¾”-12½”-13”-13¾”.
Work next row from RS as follows:
A.3 (= 12 sts), stockinette st over the next 9-10-12-13-15-17 sts, A.4 (= 4 sts), K 1, 1 edge st in garter st. Work a row back with the same pattern.
Work next row from RS as follows: A.3 over band, stockinette st over the next 8-9-11-12-14-16 sts, A.1 (= 6 sts), K 1, AT THE SAME TIME cast on 4 new sts at the end of row for sleeve = 31-32-34-35-37-39 sts on needle (piece now measures approx. 31-32-34-36-37-39 cm / 12¼”-12½”-13½”-14¼”-14½”-15¼” from cast-on edge). Work the new sts in stockinette st with 2 edge sts in garter st at the edge of sleeve.
Continue the pattern like this AT THE SAME TIME as pattern in diagram A.1 is displaced 1 st towards mid front every time it is worked (i.e. on every row from RS work 1 st less in stockinette st before A.1 is worked), to get an even line diagonally up towards shoulder. When A.1 meets A.3 mid front work in stockinette st over sts in A.1. Then when piece measures 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm / 24’’-24¾’’-25½’’-26½’’-27’’-28’’, insert a marker in piece (= mid on top of shoulder), NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
On next row from WS continue as follows (from sleeve and in): 2 edge sts in garter st, stockinette st over the next 17-18-20-21-23-25 sts, slip these 19-20-22-23-25-27 sts on 1 stitch holder, work A.3 as before over the last 12 sts on needle and slip these 12 sts on 1 new stitch holder for collar.

LEFT FRONT PIECE + SLEEVE:
Work as right front piece but reversed. Work pattern according to diagram A.2 instead of A.1 and A.5 instead of A.4. Work the 12 sts in diagram A.3 at the top by shoulder from WS before slipping them on 1 stitch holder. Work the rest of row, continue with back piece without slipping sts on 1 stitch holder.

BACK PIECE:
Work 1st row from RS as follows: Work 19-20-22-23-25-27 sts from left front piece, cast on 9-9-9-11-11-11 new sts (= back of neck) and work the 19-20-22-23-25-27 sts from right front piece on to circular needle = 47-49-53-57-61-65 sts. Continue back and forth in stockinette st with 2 edge sts in garter st in each side. Continue until there are approx. 4-5-5-5-6-6 cm / 1½”-2”-2”-2”-2½”-2½” in stockinette st from the marker on shoulder.
Work next row from RS as follows: 2 edge sts in garter st, 14 sts in stockinette st, A.1 (= 6 sts), 3-5-9-13-17-21 sts in stockinette st, A.2 (= 6 sts), 14 sts in stockinette st, 2 edge sts in garter st.
Work 1 row back as before with P from WS and 2 edge sts in garter st in each side. On next row from RS work as follows: 2 edge sts in garter st, 13 sts in stockinette st, A.1 (= 6 sts), 5-7-11-15-19-23 sts in stockinette st, A.2 (= 6 sts), 13 sts in stockinette st, 2 edge sts in garter st. Continue the pattern like this - NOTE: Lace pattern in diagram A.1 and A.2 will continue to displace 1 st towards the sides every time they are worked, so that pattern get an even line diagonally from shoulder down to the side (i.e. on every row from RS work 1 st in stockinette st less before A.1 and after A.2 towards the sides and work 2 sts more in stockinette st after A.1 and before A.2 towards the middle).
Continue in stockinette st and pattern according to diagram A.1 and A.2 until 2 edge sts in garter and 3 sts in stockinette st remain in each side after A.1 and A.2 have been worked (sleeve measures 60-62-62-62-64-64 cm / 23½”-24½”-24½”-24½”-25¼”-25¼” in total from the inc sts). On next row from RS work as follows: bind off 4 sts, 1 edge st in garter st, K 2, A.4 (= 4 sts), work 25-27-31-35-49-43 sts in stockinette st, A.5 (= 4 sts), K 5, 2 edge sts in garter st = 43-45-49-53-57-61 sts. Turn piece and bind off 4 sts from WS = 39-41-45-49-53-57 sts on needle incl 1 edge st in garter st in each side. Piece now measures 34-35-35-35-36-36 cm / 14½”-13¾”-13¾”-13¾”-14¼”-14¼” from marker on shoulder.
Continue in stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side until piece measures 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm / 18’’-19’’-19¾’’-20½’’-21¼’’-22’’. On next row from RS, dec 1 st in each side of piece from RS - SEE DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec in each side every other row (i.e. every row from RS) 5 more times (= 6 dec in total in each side). When piece measures 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm / 24’’-24¾’’-25½’’-26½’’-27’’-28’’ from marker on shoulder and there are 27-29-33-37-41-45 sts on needle, bind off all sts.

COLLAR:
Slip the 12 collar sts from stitch holder on right front piece back on needle. Then continue with seed st as before AT THE SAME TIME work short rows in seed st over collar, beg from RS = towards mid front: * 2 rows over all sts, 2 rows back and forth over the outermost 6 sts *. Repeat from *-* until collar measures approx. 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm / 2¾’’-2¾’’-2¾’’-3’’- 3’’- 3’’ at the most narrow. Loosely bind off.
Left half of collar are worked the same way but work 1 row over all sts before continuing with short rows.
Sew collar parts tog edge to edge mid back, and sew collar to neck in the back of neck.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve and side seam in one, sew tog edge to edge in outer loops of edge sts to avoid a chunky seam.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = K 2 tog, 1 YO
symbols = 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = knitting direction
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (32)

country flag Mandy Maahs wrote:

Hallo soll beim Kragen 21 M rechts und links stricken. was ist aber mit dem Nacken? Der Kragen geht ja dann nicht komplett durch?

30.03.2022 - 07:27

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Maahs, der Kragen wird in 2 Teilen gestrickt, dh zuerst die 12 stillgelegten Maschen am Ende von dem 1. Vorderteil - und wird mit verkürzten Reihen bis ca die Hälfte von der Breite des Halsausschnittes am Rückenteil; der Kragen bei dem 2. Vorderteil genauso stricken; dann nähen Sie beide Kragen zusammen und endlich am Halsausschnitt vom Rückenteil. Kann das Ihnen helfen?

30.03.2022 - 07:43

country flag Gourmelen wrote:

Bonjour je suis au dos (20m du devant gauche 9mailles encolure dos et 20 mailles du devant droit je tricote en aller retour 1 rang endroit le retour en envers ou en rond tout les rangs à l endroit merci

03.10.2021 - 18:47

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Gourmelen, vous tricotez maintenant les mailles du dos en rangs, autrement dit alternativement 1 rang sur l'endroit et 1 rang sur l'envers, en jersey avec 2 mailles point mousse de chaque côté. Bon tricot!

04.10.2021 - 08:33

country flag Gourmelen wrote:

Bonjour pourriez vous me dire quand je tricote A"3au dessus de bordure devant jersey au dessus des 9 mailles suiv;;;;;;;;; A 1 6 mailles = 1endroit 2m ensembles 1 jeté 2 m ensembles1 jeté 1 endroit;;;;;;;;;;; si je fais 1 endroit encore apres le shéma A1 merci

05.09.2021 - 10:07

country flag Gourmelen wrote:

Bonjour pourriez vous me dire quand je tricote A"3au dessus de bordure devant jersey au dessus des 9 mailles suiv;;;;;;;;; A 1 6 mailles = 1endroit 2m ensembles 1 jeté 2 m ensembles1 jeté 1 endroit;;;;;;;;;;; si je fais 1 endroit encore apres le shéma A1 merci

05.09.2021 - 10:04

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Gourmelen, je suis désolée, je ne suis pas sûre de comprendre à quel niveau vous en êtes; A.1 se tricote effectivement: *1 m end, 2 m ens à l'end, 1 jeté, 2 m ens à l'end, 1 jeté, 1 m end* (=6 m), au rang suivant sur l'endroit, commencez1 maille avant la maille endroit du rang précédent sur l'endroit (tricotez 1 maille jersey en moins avant A.1 pour commencer A.1 1 maille plus tôt). Bon tricot!

06.09.2021 - 07:47

country flag Gourmelen wrote:

Bonjour 1 m en jersey en moins avant de tricoter A1 je fais 1 surjet simple ou 2 mailles ensembles;;;;;;;;;;; je fais combien de diminutions en tout et j ai combien de mailles quand A1 rejoint A3 en taille M merci

27.08.2021 - 08:08

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Gourmelen, le nombre de mailles ne va pas changer car on ne diminue pas de mailles (chaque diminution est compensée par 1 jeté). Au tout 1er rang de A.1 vous tricotez 8-9-11-12-14-16 m jersey avant A.1, au 3ème rang de A.1, vous tricoterez 1 m en moins = 7-8-10-11-13-15 m jersey avant A.1, au 5ème rang, 6-7-9-10-12-14 m jersey avant A.1 etc. Quand A.1 rejoint la bordure devant, tricotez toutes les mailles en jersey (= la ligne diagonale ajourée est terminée). Bon tricot!

27.08.2021 - 08:15

country flag Gourmelen wrote:

Bonjour je suis au dessin A4 je ne comprends pas trop je fais2 mailles ensemble et 1 jeté ou que 2 mailles ensemble et le rang envers sur le dessin A4 il ny a pas de diminution je pense merci encore pour votre réponse

24.08.2021 - 07:46

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Gourmelen, effectivement, on ne diminue pas dans A.4 car on fait 1 jeté qui va compenser la diminution, vous avez ainsi toujours 4 mailles dans A.4 au rang suivant sur l'envers. Bon tricot!

24.08.2021 - 08:15

country flag Gourmelen wrote:

Pour commencer après avoir monter les 21 mailles de base je dois faire 2 rangs tout a l endroit ou je fais directement le point fantaisie merci

22.08.2021 - 16:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Gourmelen, vous passez directement au point fantaisie. Bon tricot!

22.08.2021 - 20:20

country flag Nadège wrote:

Bonsoir ! Je suis perdue aux rangs raccourcis pour le col... J'ai beau regarder les tutoriels, je comprends pas. Comment faire ? Merci de votre aide !

30.11.2018 - 20:21

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nadège, pour que le col retombe bien, on va tricoter des rangs raccourcis en commençant par le côté extérieur (pas côté épaule): tricotez au point de riz ainsi: *2 rangs sur toutes les mailles du col, 2 rangs sur les 6 premières mailles seulement*, répétez ces 4 rangs jusqu'à la hauteur indiquée pour votre taille (= 7-8 cm depuis les mailles rabattues pour l'épaule). Pour le col du devant droit, vous commencez les rangs raccourcis sur l'endroit, pour le col du devant gauche, vous les commencez sur l'envers. Bon tricot!

03.12.2018 - 08:00

country flag Nadège wrote:

Re-Bonjour ! J'ai encore une question: lorsque j'ai fini le devant droit plus manche, tout est sur les arrêts de mailles, je dois couper le fil et recommencer une autre pièce pour le devant gauche + manche? Merci pour votre aide!

12.11.2018 - 12:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nadège, tout à fait. Après avoir tricoté le devant gauche + manche, vous allez tricoter le dos en tricotant d'abord les mailles du devant gauche (sur l'endroit), puis vous monterez les mailles de l'encolure dos, et vous tricoterez les mailles du devant droit. Les mailles en attente pour le col des 2 devants restent en attente jusqu'à la fin du dos, vous les tricoterez ensuite séparément et vous les assemblerez. Bon tricot!

12.11.2018 - 13:52

country flag Amelia wrote:

Estoy atascada desde aquí: "Continuar el patrón de esta manera AL MISMO TIEMPO que el patrón en el diagrama A.1 es desviado 1 pt en el lado del centro del frente por cada vez que es tejido (es decir, en cada hilera por el LD tejer 1 pt menos en pt jersey antes de tejer A.1), para obtener una línea oblicuamente pareja en dirección del hombro." ¿Hay que seguir montando nuevos puntos al final de cada hilera? ¿cómo se crea la manga? Gracias!

08.11.2018 - 11:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Amelia. Las mangas se trabajan junto con el cuerpo. Se montan 4 puntos para las cenefas de las mangas solamente una vez a cada lado.

30.12.2018 - 17:04