DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Ladylike

Set consists of: Knitted DROPS hat and shawl in garter st with lace pattern in 2 strands ”Kid-Silk”.

DROPS 151-8
DROPS design: Pattern no ks-080
Yarn group A + A
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HAT:
Size: One-size
Materials:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
25 g color no 01, off white
25 g color no 05, heather

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 5 mm / US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 36 rows in garter st with 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 3.5 mm / US 4 - or size needed to get 20 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st with 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.

SHAWL:
Measurements: Width at top: approx. 145 cm / 57’’
Length in the middle: approx. 40 cm / 15 3/4’’
Materials:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
75 g color no 01, off white
75 g color no 05, heather

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24’’ or 32’’) SIZE 5 mm / US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 36 rows in garter st with 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, K YO twisted on next row to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

SHORT ROWS 1:
Work short rows to get a nice shape on lace edge as follows:
Beg from RS and K over all sts, turn piece and K 17 from WS (i.e. until marker), turn piece and K 17 from RS, turn piece, bind off the first 6 sts and K over all sts on row = 1 repetition with short rows.

SHORT ROWS 2:
Beg from RS and K over all sts, turn piece and K 11 from WS (i.e. until marker), turn piece and K 11 from RS, turn piece and K 8 from WS, turn piece and K 8 from RS, turn piece and K 5 from WS, turn piece and K 5 from RS, turn piece and K 2 from WS, turn piece and K 2 from RS.
Work 2 ridges in garter st back and forth over all 68 sts, the shawl has been worked to the middle.
Then work as follows, beg from WS: K 2, turn piece and K 2 from RS, turn piece and K 5 from WS, turn piece and K 5 from RS, turn piece and K 8 from WS, turn piece and K 8 from RS, turn piece and K 11 from WS, turn piece and K 11 from RS, turn piece and K back over all sts = 1 repetition with short rows.

SHORT ROWS 3:
Beg from RS, K over all sts and cast on 6 new sts at end of row, turn piece and K 17 from WS (i.e. until marker), turn piece and K 17 from RS, turn piece and K back over all sts on row = 1 repetition with short rows.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st by K 2 sts tog.
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HAT:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 100 sts with 1 strand of each color (= 2 strands) on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4.
Work in stockinette st for 3 cm / 1’’ with 1 edge st in GARTER ST in each side - see explanation above. K 1 row from WS (= folding edge) and continue in stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side for 3 cm / 1’’ – make sure that next row is from RS.
Switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and work 1 ridge in garter st AT THE SAME TIME dec 16 sts evenly on 1st row = 84 sts.
NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Continue in garter st back and forth until piece measures 20 cm / 8’’.
On next row from RS K 2 tog across = 42 sts remain on needle. K 3 rows. On next row (= RS) K 2 tog across = 21 sts remain on needle.
K 3 rows. On next row (= RS) K 2 tog across = 11 sts remain on needle.
Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the bottom edge on hat double towards WS in folding edge and fasten with small stitches - make sure to avoid a tight seam.
Then sew hat tog mid back, sew in front loop of outermost st to avoid a chunky seam. Hat measures approx. 26 cm / 10 1/4’’ vertically (includes 3 cm / 1’’ edge at the bottom).
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SHAWL:
Shawl is worked in garter st with an edge in lace pattern and worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 14 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 1 strand of each color (= 2 strands). Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above (1st row = RS).
Then work as follows:
Row 1 (= RS): K 3, insert 1 marker, work pattern according to diagram A.1 (= 11 sts) = 15 sts on needle, turn piece.
Row 2 (= WS): Work A.1 over the first 12 sts, marker, K the rest of row, turn piece.
Row 3 (= RS): K until marker, 1 YO – READ INCREASE TIP, marker, A.1 over the last 12 sts = 17 sts on row, turn piece.
Row 4 (= WS): Work A.1 over the first 13 sts, marker, K YO twisted and K the rest of row, turn piece.
Row 5 (= RS): K until marker and work A.1 over the last 13 sts = 18 sts on row, turn piece.
Row 6 (= WS): Work A.1 over the first 14 sts, marker, K the rest of row, turn piece.
Row 7 (= RS): K until marker, 1 YO (READ INCREASE TIP), marker, A.1 over the last 14 sts = 20 sts on row, turn piece.
Row 8 (= WS): Work A.1 over the first 15 sts, marker, K the rest of row, turn piece.
Row 9 (= RS): K until marker, A.1 over the last 15 sts = 21 sts on row, turn piece.
Row 10 (= WS): Work A.1 over the first 16 sts, marker, K the rest of row, turn piece.
Row 11 (= RS): K until marker, 1 YO, marker, A.1 over the last 16 sts = 23 sts on row, turn piece.
Row 12 (= WS): Work A.1 over the first 17 sts, marker, K the rest of row.
1 repetition with A.1 has now been worked and 3 sts have been inc in garter st before marker (seen from RS).
Work 1 repetition with SHORT ROWS 1 - see explanation above, over sts in lace edge (do not work the other sts on row).
Then work alternately 1 repetition A.1 vertically and 1 repetition SHORT ROWS 1 (NOTE: Every time 1st row in A.1 is worked, there will be 3 sts more before marker). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When A.1 and SHORT ROWS 1 have been worked 18 times vertically in total, there are 57 sts in garter st before marker and 11 sts in lace edge after marker = 68 sts on needle.
Work 1 repetition SHORT ROWS 2 - see explanation above. After short rows 2 work 1 repetition with SHORT ROWS 3 - see explanation above = 74 sts on needle.
Then work back and forth over all sts as follows:
Row 1 (= RS): K until marker, work pattern according to diagram A.2 (= 17 sts) = 73 sts on row, turn piece.
Row 2 (= WS): Work A.2 over the first 16 sts, marker, K the rest of row, turn piece.
Row 3 (= RS): K until 2 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog, marker, A.2 over the last 16 sts = 71 sts on row, turn piece.
Row 4 (= WS): Work A.2 over the first 15 sts, marker, K the rest of row, turn piece.
Row 5 (= RS): K until marker and work A.2 over the last 15 sts = 70 sts on row, turn piece.
Row 6 (= WS): Work A.2 over the first 14 sts, marker, K the rest of row, turn piece.
Row 7 (= RS): K until 2 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog, marker, A.2 over the last 14 sts = 68 sts on row, turn piece.
Row 8 (= WS): Work A.2 over the first 13 sts, marker, K the rest of row, turn piece.
Row 9 (= RS): K until marker and work A.2 over the last 13 sts = 67 sts on row, turn piece.
Row 10 (= WS): Work A.2 over the first 12 sts, marker, K the rest of row, turn piece.
Row 11 (= RS): K until 2 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog, marker, A.2 over the last 12 sts = 65 sts on row, turn piece.
Row 12 (= WS): Work A.2 over the first 11 sts, marker, K the rest of row, turn piece.
1 repetition with A.2 has now been worked and 3 sts have been dec in garter st before marker (seen from RS).
Work 1 repetition with SHORT ROWS 3 - see explanation above, over sts in lace edge (do not work the other sts on row).
Then work alternately 1 repetition A.2 vertically and 1 repetition SHORT ROWS 3 (NOTE: Every time 1st row in A.2 is worked, there will be 3 sts less before marker).
When A.2 and SHORT ROWS 3 have been worked 18 times vertically in total there are 14 sts on needle. Work 1 ridge in garter st over all sts and loosely bind off.
Shawl measures approx. 145 cm / 57’’ in width and approx. 40 cm / 15 3/4’’ in the middle.


Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS
symbols = K from WS
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts, K YO on next row
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (78)

country flag Marie wrote:

Bonsoir,est il obligatoire de tricoter ce modèle sur des aiguilles circulaires? Merci pour votre réponse.

16.10.2023 - 19:50

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie, le bonnet et le châle se tricotent tous deux en allers et retours sur aiguille circulaire, vous pouvez donc utiliser des aiguilles droites, vos mailles seront juste (beaucoup) plus serrées, pensez à bien conserver la bonne tension. Retrouvez plus d'infos sur les aiguilles circulaires ici. Bon tricot!

17.10.2023 - 09:20

country flag Lisbeth wrote:

Hej. Flot sjal, men kan man gøre det højere, fx ved af sætte 3 ekstra masker på før mærketråd (6 masker).

01.05.2023 - 15:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lisbeth, ja det kan du gøre :)

03.05.2023 - 07:52

country flag STEPHANIE MAETZ wrote:

Bonjour, Sur le dernier rang impair du diagramme A2 ne manque t il pas 2 mailles ensembles endroit et 1 jeter? Merci de votre réponse

14.12.2022 - 11:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Maetz, au 10ème rang de A.2 on a 12 mailles, au 11ème rang, on va tricoter 1 m end, (2 m ens à l'end, 1 jeté)x4, 2 m ens à l'end, 1 m end = il reste 11 mailles pour le dernier rang. Bon tricot!

14.12.2022 - 13:14

country flag Ayse wrote:

I cannot see the diagrams on the page. Are they not loading properly or gone missing?

20.11.2022 - 18:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ayse, the diagrams can be seen just fine on our end. If you have trouble visualizing them, it may be a problem with high Internet traffic on our website, weak Internet connection or incompability with a browser. We suggest trying again at a later time to see if they load and, if this doesn't work, try using another browser. Happy knitting!

21.11.2022 - 00:51

country flag Christine wrote:

Bonjour, Il faudrait préciser dans vos explications que les rgs raccourcis 2 et 3 sont fait uniquement dans le point mousse tout en tricotant la bordure comme depuis le début. Ce n'est pas du tout intuitif pour les débutantes et absolument pas indiqué. Cordialement

21.10.2022 - 08:12

country flag Jo Wallace wrote:

I love the finished item, but am terribly confused by so much of the pattern. I do hope you can help me to knit it.....I think I have struggled through the shawl to Row 12 (hopefully correctly) I have 23 stitches on. Do I then go up to Short Row 1 and knit on the same stitches? I've tried this but it doesn't look right to me. And I don't know how to knit vertically. I would do value your help, and hope I'm not a lost cause. Thank you. Jo

20.08.2022 - 13:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Wallace, once you have worked the first 12 fows, you now work one repeat of the short-rows-1, ie starting from RS work all stitches a sbefore, turn and work the first 17 sts from WS, turn and work these 17 sts from RS, turn, cast off the first 6 sts, work to the end of the row. Now (work as before with A.1 and increasing on row 3, 7 and 11, then work the short rows-1), repeat from (to) until you have worked A.1 17more times (18 times in total from beg), there are now 68 sts on needle. Happy knitting!

22.08.2022 - 09:39

country flag Adrienne Owen wrote:

Hi there,after working the middle turn,short rows 2, I dont have the lacy tips around the edge of this part,they recommence after the turn.Have I misread the pattern? Thank you for your advise,it is a beautiful garment anyway.

05.06.2022 - 23:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Owen, that's correct, when working the short rows-2 you just work in garter stitch without the lacy edge. Happy knitting!

07.06.2022 - 08:48

country flag Elisabete wrote:

Olá. Iniciei a segunda parte do xaile onde uso o esquema a2. Notei que assim a ultima carreira fica com 4 buracos originados pelas lacadas em vez dos cinco habituais . Estou a interpretar mal ? Estou a adorar o efeito do xaile

22.08.2021 - 01:36

DROPS Design answered:

Bom dia, No esquema a2, há 5 laçadas, pelo que também deverá haver cinco buracos. A diminuição antes da 1.ª laçada é relativa ao corpo do xaile. Esperamos que termine rapidamente este bonito xaile. Bons tricôs!

23.08.2021 - 10:08

country flag Elisabete wrote:

Olá! Uma ajudinha: quando terminamos a primeira repetição de a1 temos 23 malhas e temos o marcador à direita,visto pelo direito. A quantas malhas da direita? 6? Essa distancia vai ser proporcional ,ou seja,o marcador vai estar afastado do bordo ajourado o maximo de 17 pontos,correcto? As carreiras encurtadas acabam por ser apenas 4,correcto?sendo que a primeira e a ultima percorrem o trabalho todo de ponta a ponta? O xaile é mais meia lua do que triângulo, não é? Beijinhos

03.08.2021 - 00:15

DROPS Design answered:

Boa tarde, 1) De facto, o número de malhas aumenta no lado direito (visto pelo direito) por ser a barra rendada. O número de malhas varia. O importante é manter o marcador no local certo (entre a parte tricotada em meia e o ponto rendado). 2) Há 3 grupos de carreiras encurtadas neste xaile. A série de carreiras encurtadas 1 é efectivamente composta por 4 carreiras e tanto a primeira carreira como a última carreira percorrem o trabalho todo. A última carreira vai "fechar" as malhas que encurtam a carreira. 3) Sim, o xaile tem a forma de meia lua ou de elipse. Bons tricôs! Beijinhos

04.08.2021 - 16:18

country flag Silvana wrote:

Mi spiace tanto ma non riesco proprio a capire come fare il motivo, come collegare A1 e A2. Qualcuno mi può aiutare? Grazie

11.04.2021 - 23:29

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Silvana, ci può spiegare quale passaggio non le è chiaro? Alla fine di A.1 deve lavorare A.2 come indicato. Buon lavoro!

12.04.2021 - 23:25