DROPS Andes
DROPS Andes
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 6.60 $ /100g
DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 48.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Hellebore

Knitted DROPS jacket in seed st in ‘‘Andes’‘ and ‘‘Fabel’‘. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 151-30
DROPS design: Pattern no an-017
Yarn group E + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-94-106-118-128-140 cm / 34½''-37''-41¾''-46½''-50½''-55''
Full length: 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm / 27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½

Materials:
DROPS ANDES from Garnstudio
600-700-700-800-900-900 g color no 9020, light gray
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
150-200-200-200-200-250 g color no 911, fun lilac.

DROPS CIRCULAR Needle size 15 mm / US 19 (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') - or size needed to get 7 sts x 11 rows in garter st with 1 strand of each yarn = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Andes
DROPS Andes
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 6.60 $ /100g
DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 48.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

SEED ST:
Row 1: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row 2: K over P and P over K. Repeat 2nd row.
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RIGHT FRONT PIECE + SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on a circular needle to make room for all the sts with one strand of each yarn. Cast on 33-34-36-37-39-41 sts on circular needle size 15 mm / US 19 with 1 strand Andes and 1 strand Fabel. K 2 rows. Then work Seed st over all sts - see explanation above. When piece measures 48-49-50-51-52-53 cm / 19''-19¼''-19¾''-20''-20½''-21'', cast on 10-10-9-8-7-6 new sts at the end of next row from RS = 43-44-45-45-46-47 sts. Insert 1 marker - NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
When piece measures approx. 22-23-24-25-26-27 cm / 8 3/4''-9''-9½''-9 3/4''-10 1/4''-10 5/8'' from marker (make sure that next row is worked from RS), work the first 22 sts as before, then slip them on 1 stitch holder = 21-22-23-23-24-25 sts remain on needle, work the rest of row. Insert another marker (= mid on top of shoulder) – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work 1 row over sts on needle. Slip sts on 1 stitch holder and put piece aside.

LEFT FRONT PIECE + SLEEVE:
Work as right but reversed, then continue with back piece without slipping sts on 1 stitch holder.

BACK PIECE:
Continue with seed st on next row as follows from RS: Work sts from left front piece + sleeve, cast on 9-9-9-11-11-11 new sts (= back of neck) and work right front piece + sleeve on to circular needle = 51-53-55-57-59-61 sts. Continue back and forth until piece measures 22-23-24-25-26-27 cm / 8 3/4''-9''-9½''-9 3/4''-10 1/4''-10 5/8'' from marker mid on top of shoulder. On next row bind off the first and last 10-10-9-8-7-6 sts, cut the yarn. Work over the remaining 31-33-37-41-45-49 sts.
When piece measures approx. 67-69-71-73-75-77 cm / 26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28''-28¾''-29½''-30 3/8'', K 2 rows over all sts, then loosely bind off.

COLLAR:
Slip the 22 sts from stitch holder on right front piece back on needle. Cast on 1 new st towards the shoulder = 23 sts. K over all sts with short rows as follows:
Row 1 and 2: Beg mid front - K 10, turn and K back.
Row 3 and 4: K all sts, turn and K back.
Repeat these 4 rows until collar measures approx. 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm / 2¾''-2¾''-2¾''-3 1/8''- 3 1/8''- 3 1/8'' on the inner edge towards the shoulder, bind off. Work the same way over sts from stitch holder on left front piece. Sew collar parts tog edge to edge mid back, and sew collar to neck inside edge st.

POCKETS:
Cast on 13 sts on circular needle size 15 mm / US 19 with 1 strand Andes and 1 strand Fabel. Work in stockinette st back and forth with 1 st in GARTER ST - see explanation above - in each side until piece measures approx. 18 cm / 7'', loosely bind off from RS.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve and side seam in one, sew tog edge to edge in outer loop of edge st to avoid a chunky seam. Sew on pockets approx. 5 cm / 2'' from bottom edge and 18 cm / 7'' in from mid front, sew in outer loop of sts in garter st in each side.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (80)

country flag Peggy Hall wrote:

Pattern: Hellebore. I need a better reference for sizes. Like, "medium", in U. S. A. words, size 10-12? Bust measurements 34"-36". Otherwise, I'm totally lost.

24.01.2024 - 06:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Hall, to find out the matching size, measure a similar garment you have and like the shape and compare them to the measurements in the chart - in cm, convert into inchez here. Read more about charts here. Happy knitting!

24.01.2024 - 08:28

country flag Benedetta wrote:

Buongiorno, quando scrivete "Cucire le estremità del collo insieme, bordo contro bordo, al centro, sul dietro" intendete il lato più lungo o quello corto delle estremità? Grazie Cordiali saluti

10.10.2022 - 14:36

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Benedetta, deve cucire i 2 lati corti e poi cucire il tutto alla scollatura. Buon lavoro!

15.11.2022 - 22:22

country flag Enza wrote:

Ma si può lavorare con i ferri lineari ?

31.10.2021 - 15:07

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Enza, questo modello è un cardigan, quindi può essere lavorato con i ferri dritti. Buon lavoro!

01.11.2021 - 23:07

country flag Anna wrote:

Hello, I'd like to ask if the diagram is fully describing the pieces? I am a little confused how the separate pieces should look like and how to connect them together. 1. Is the diagram showing right front part and back sewed together? 2. Where would the collar go? 3. What does the striked-through line mean? 4. Would it be possible to upload sweater picture from the back? Maybe it would give some insight into understanding the connection of the pieces. Thank you in advance for your help!

06.01.2021 - 17:29

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj, za przerywaną linią jest rękaw. Każdy przód wykonujesz od dołu do góry, nabierając o. na rękaw (w 1 części). Tył przerabiasz od góry do dołu biorąc na druty skrajne o. rękawów z drutów pomocniczych i nabierając między nimi o. na dekolt, powstanie tylna część rękawów+tył. Następnie zamykasz o. po 2 stronach i wykonujesz sam tył. O. na drucie pomocniczym od strony dekoltu przerabiasz rzędami skróconymi wg opisu (2 symetryczne części). Zszywasz obie części kołnierza na środku tyłu (rzędy gdzie były zamknięte oczka) i wszywasz kołnierz wzdłuż dekoltu tyłu. Zszywamy spód rękawów i boki. Pozdrawiamy!

06.01.2021 - 21:44

country flag Anna wrote:

Hello! I need help. With the 15mm knitting needles my swatch is very long and thin. Even if I stretch it, it is longer than expected. 1. Should we really use such big knitting needles? Perhaps my technique is not all right but I am not sure what to change. Would it work if I change to 12mm knitting needles? 2. Should I be stretching the sample to get the expected size? 3. To get felted size S which size should I make? Any help will be appreciated - thank you!

29.11.2020 - 17:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anna, in this pattern width would be more important than height that you can adjust only by measuring - this means you should have here 7 sts with 1 strand Andes + 1 strand Fabel in garter stitch = 10 cm in width. Read more about tension here. We are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every single request, this jacket is not supposed to be felted - for any individual assistance you are welcome to contact your yarn store or any knitting forum. Thanks for your comprehension. Happy knitting!

30.11.2020 - 09:25

country flag Joëlle wrote:

Bonjour, j'ai tricoté ce modèle qui m'a tapé dans l'oeil pour ces couleurs ,le point,et le moelleux de cette laine. Très vite fait et très facile. Juste un p'tit conseil : rajouter qques mailles de chaque côté au niveau des manches afin qu'elles soient aussi longues que sur le modèle. Juste un peu lâche j'aurai dû prendre une taille d'aiguilles inférieures ou tricoter plus serré cela aurait été mieux car il a tendance à se détendre et s'allonger avec le poids. Merci

25.09.2020 - 23:32

country flag Doris Böttcher wrote:

Ich würde gerne die Jacke Hellebore -mit Andes gestrickt, mit der Wolle Air stricken aber ohne ein zweitgarn. wie rechne ich dies um?

23.09.2020 - 11:23

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Böttcher, gerne können Sie 1 Faden DROPS Andes durch 2 Fäden DROPS Air ersetzen, aber DROPS Fabel sollten Sie immer dazu stricken = 1 Faden E oder 2 Fäden C + 1 Faden A (= Fabel oder irgendeine andere Wolle Garngruppe A) - hier lesen Sie mehr über Garnalternativen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

23.09.2020 - 14:18

country flag Aigli wrote:

Ok thank you for your answer!one more pls.. about the collar now please explain about the short rows.what means row 1and 2:“beg mid front-k10,turn and knit back?row 3and 4: k all sts, turn and knot back?do we still have 23 sts?thank you

12.01.2019 - 21:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Aigli, for the collar, you will work short rows over the 23 sts: 2 rows over the first 10 sts, 2 rows over all the 23 sts, and repeat these 4 rows until required length. Happy knitting!

14.01.2019 - 10:29

Aigli wrote:

Hello I need help! I´Be knitted right front +sleeve and the left front+sleeve. For the back piece there is no casting on? I’m confused, what’s the next s

05.01.2019 - 21:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Aigli, back piece is worked top down from shoulders on both front pieces: work the sts from left front piece, cast on 9-11 sts (see size) for neck and work the sts from right front piece, work now over all these sts. Happy knitting!

07.01.2019 - 10:56

country flag Rosário Semedo wrote:

Boa noite! estou a fazer este modelo e ja fiz as duas frentes e mangas, cheguei aos ombros e não estou a perceber como continuo para as costas. Obrigada

04.01.2018 - 02:15

DROPS Design answered:

Junta as duas frentes e ao meio delas, monta malhas para o decote. COSTAS : Continuar em ponto de arroz na carreira seguinte, pelo direito, da seguinte maneira : Tricotar as ms/pts da frente esquerda + manga, montar 9-9-9-11-11-11 ms/pts (= decote das costas) e tricotar as ms/pts da frente direita + manga = 51-53-55-57-59-61 ms/pts. Bom tricô!

16.01.2018 - 15:33