DROPS 146-28
DROPS design: Pattern no la-014
Yarn group A
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Size: approx. 42 cm / 16½" measured at the back of neck and down along one of the markers.

Materials: DROPS LACE from Garnstudio
100 g color no 2020, light camel

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm / US 4 – NOTE: Read about gauge below.

GAUGE:
This garment is to be soaked and blocked/stretched to size afterwards so the gauge is not that important but to get a sense of whether you are working too loose/tight, work a test on needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 in stockinette st and get approx. 23 sts x 30 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
Categories:
Women Accessories Big Shawls Shawls
Keywords:
lace

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st inside 2 sts in garter st in each side of piece on every row by making a YO, P the YO from WS and K the YO from RS to make holes.
Inc 1 st before 1st marker from RS by making a YO before marker and inc 1 st after 2nd marker from RS by making a YO after marker, P the YOs from WS to make holes.
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SHAWL:
Worked back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the sts. Cast on 65 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Lace. Insert markers inside 3 sts in each side of shawl (= 59 sts between markers) and move the markers upwards when working. Work in stockinette st with 2 sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, in each side (1st row = RS) - AT THE SAME TIME inc - read INCREASE TIP above, 1 st inside 2 sts in garter st in each side of piece on every row, and inc 1 st before 1st marker and 1 st after 2nd marker on every row from RS (= 6 inc sts after every other row). Continue to work and inc this way until there are 129 sts before 1st marker, 59 sts in the middle and 129 sts after 2nd marker = 317 sts on row. After all inc piece measures approx. 28 cm / 11'' in the knitting direction along one of the markers. On next row from RS work as follows: 2 sts in garter st and diagram A.1(= 6 sts) 52 times until 3 sts remain, work 1 st in stockinette st and finish with 2 sts in garter st. When diagram A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 421 sts on row. Continue to work 2 sts in garter st, diagram A.2 until 3 sts remain, 1 st in stockinette st and 2 sts in garter st, work until diagram A.2 has been worked a total of 3 times vertically, piece measures approx. 42 cm / 16½'' measured in knitting direction along one of the markers. On next row from RS, loosely bind off as follows – NOTE: It is very important to bind off very LOOSELY otherwise the edge cannot be shaped into tips: Cast of the first 3 sts in garter st (lightly pull them when casting/binding off so that they are loose), * make 1 loose YO on right needle, bind off YO, bind off 2 sts (lightly pull when casting/binding off so that they are loose) *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, bind off these sts.

BLOCKING:
Place the shawl in lukewarm water until it is soaking wet. Carefully squeeze the water out of the shawl - do not twist the shawl - then roll the shawl in a towel and squeeze to remove more water - the shawl will now only be moist. Place the shawl on a carpet or mattress (or blocking boards) - carefully stretch it out to size and fasten it with pins. NOTE: Fasten several pins in the outermost sts along cast on edge and out to the outermost sts in each side of shawl, fasten 1 pin between every repetition along the 2 diagonal sides, lightly pull at every pin so that the edge is shaped with small tips. Leave to dry. Repeat the process when the shawl is being washed.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (49)

country flag Mari wrote:

Sto notando che l'inizio del lavoro essendo a maglia rasata senza un bordo si arriccia tantissimo, come si può risolvere questo problema? Grazie.

12.02.2023 - 00:32

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Mari, è proprio una caratteristica del modello, con il bloccaggio si noterà meno, ma rimane comunque. Buon lavoro!

13.02.2023 - 16:15

country flag Renate Van Nuland wrote:

Goedemiddag, ik heb een vraag over de omslagdoek Wings, beschreven met garen Lace Lace is niet meer verkrijgbaar en bij jullie lijst met alternatieve garen komt niets op. Is Kid-silk te gebruiken? Zo ja, moet ik dan nog ergens rekening mee houden? Ik heb eerder Kid-silk gebruikt maar op naalden 7 en 8, ga ik voor omslagdoek Wings dan 3 gebruiken? Vriendelijke groet Renate

29.12.2022 - 15:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Renate,

DROPS Lace is inderdaad helaas niet meer in de handel. Dit garen valt in categorie A, dus je kunt een garen kiezen uit dezelfde categorie, zoals bijvoorbeeld Kid-Silk. Maak een proeflapje om te kijken of de stekenverhouding overeenkomt en pas eventueel de naalddikte aan zodat je dezelfde stekenverhouding hebt als in het patroon.

01.01.2023 - 11:32

country flag Tini Von Nessen wrote:

Guten Tag, es sollen ja insgesamt 317 Maschen sein. Ich habe links und rechts 60 und in der Mitte 59. Habe ich etwas falsch gemacht? Vielen Dank für die Hilfe.

24.08.2020 - 15:59

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Von Nessen, die Zunahmen stricken Sie noch weiter bis es 129 M vor der 1. Markierung und genau sovile nach der 2. Markierung sind, + die mittleren 59 M = 129+59+129= dann haben Sie die 317 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

24.08.2020 - 16:11

country flag Jyotsna wrote:

Please explain or some video " Cast of the first 3 sts in garter st (lightly pull them when casting off so that they are loose), * make 1 loose YO on right needle, cast off YO, cast off 2 sts (lightly pull when casting off so that they are loose) *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, cast off these sts."

23.08.2020 - 11:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jyotsna, this video shows how to bind off with yarn overs. make sure the stitches are worked loosely as explained in the pattern to avoid cast off edge being too tight. Happy knitting!

24.08.2020 - 08:39

country flag Jyotsna wrote:

Please explain or send video of : Cast of the first 3 sts in garter st (lightly pull them when casting off so that they are loose), * make 1 loose YO on right needle, cast off YO, cast off 2 sts (lightly pull when casting off so that they are loose) *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, cast off these sts.

22.08.2020 - 07:08

country flag Karina Zimmermann wrote:

Hej. Tak for svaret. Hvis jeg gerne vil have en mønsterrapport i hver side mere, hvor mange masker skal jeg så have udover de 129 masker pr side?

15.08.2017 - 17:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Karina, Du skal bruge 6 masker mere for at kunne strikke 1 rapport mere af første pind i diagram A.1. God fornøjelse!

17.08.2017 - 15:21

country flag Karina Zimmermann wrote:

Hej. Er det korrekt læst, at der tages ud på både ret- og vrangsiden?

12.08.2017 - 19:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Karina. Ja, det stemmer. Når du starter på diagrammene, økes det bare fra retten. God Fornøyelse!

14.08.2017 - 16:02

Selma wrote:

Je ne comprend pas tres bien au debut lorsqu'il est dit:"tricoter en jersey avec 2m au point mousse.........1er rg sur l'endroit",ces 2 m pt mousse doit on les tricoter sur tous les rangs?ou sur le 1er rg seulement?merci!

11.08.2016 - 12:04

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Selma, on tricote les 2 premières m et les 2 dernières m au point mousse jusqu'à la fin du châle. Bon tricot!

15.08.2016 - 09:44

country flag Frauke wrote:

Hallo, wie verstehe ich "man nimmt in jeder R 1M neben den 2 M kraus rechts auf jeder Seite auf" h.d. vor den 2 M kraus rechts oder nach den 2 M kraus rechts? Danke LG Frauke

03.05.2015 - 23:11

DROPS Design answered:

Die jeweils 2 kraus-re-M bilden stets Anfang und Ende, Sie nehmen also am R-Anfang 1 M nach diesen 2 M zu und am R-Ende nehmen Sie 1 M vor diesen 2 M zu. Diese beidseitige Zunahme machen Sie in jeder R.

04.05.2015 - 22:07

country flag Triin wrote:

Eesti keeles on sõnastus küll veidi ebaõnnestunud. Mida tähendab mustris lause "Kasvata 1 silmus mõlemal serval 2 ripskoes silmuse kõrvalt" Mida see kõrvalt seal tähendab? Kas ma peaks sealt välja lugema, et kasvatada tuleb kahe ripskoes silmuse järel?

23.02.2015 - 14:12

DROPS Design answered:

Justnimelt! Rea alguses pärast 2 ripskoes silmust ja rea lõpus enne 2 ripskoes silmust.

02.09.2015 - 15:19