DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.25 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Jodi

Knitted DROPS top in garter st with short sleeves and lace pattern in ”Cotton Light”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 148-11
DROPS design: Pattern no cl-018
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 76-84-92-102-114-126 cm /
30''-33''-36 1/4''-40''-45''-49½''
Full length: 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm /
20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''

Materials:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
300-300-350-350-400-450 g color no 25, light lilac

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 4 mm / US 6 (80 cm / 32'') - or size needed get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4'', and 21 sts x 42 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''. 17 sts pattern according to A.2 = width 10 cm / 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/ US 4 – for rib and lace pattern at the bottom of body.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Cotton Light
DROPS Cotton Light
50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.25 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by working 2 sts in the same st.

DECREASE TIP (applies to dec at the sleeves):
All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows before marker and before edge st: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker and after edge st: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
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TOP:
Cast on 156-174-192-216-240-264 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Cotton Light. K 1 round, then work rib = K 3/P 3. When rib measures 3 cm / 1 1/8'', work pattern according to diagram A.1.
When piece measures approx. 21-22-23-24-25-26 cm / 8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½''-9¾''-10¼'' (stop after 1 round with holes), K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 8-10-12-14-14-14 sts evenly = 148-164-180-202-226-250 sts.
P 1 round, K 1 round and P 1 round. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 28-36-36-42-42-42 sts evenly = 120-128-144-160-184-208 sts.
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work pattern according to diagram A.2. When A.2 has been worked, K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc 28-36-36-42-42-44 sts evenly = 148-164-180-202-226-252 sts.
P 1 round. Insert 1 marker at beg of round and 1 marker after 74-82-90-101-113-126 sts (= sides) – NOW MEASURES PIECE FROM HERE!
Then work in GARTER ST in the round on circular needle - see explanation above.
When piece measures 3 cm / 1 1/8'', inc 1 st on each side of both markers – READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc).
Repeat inc when piece measures 6 and 9 cm / 2½" and 3½" = 160-176-192-214-238-264 sts.
When piece measures 10 cm / 4'' - make sure that next round is a P round, bind off 8-10-12-16-20-24 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. Bind off 4-5-6-8-10-12 sts on each side of both markers) = 72-78-84-91-99-108 sts remain on front and back piece.

BACK PIECE:
= 72-78-84-91-99-108 sts. Beg with K from RS and bind off at beg of row in each side as follows: bind off 2 sts 1-1-2-2-2-2 times in each side = 68-74-76-83-91-100 sts, cut the yarn.
Now work in sleeve caps on back piece as follows (1st row = RS):
Cast on 30-30-32-34-36-38 sts on needle, insert 1 marker, work the 68-74-76-83-91-100 sts from back piece, insert 1 marker and cast on 30-30-32-34-36-38 sts on needle = 128-134-140-151-163-176 sts.
Continue in garter st back and forth on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS beg dec as follows - READ DECREASE TIP:

Dec 1 st at beg and end of row inside 1 edge st: Dec every 4th row (i.e. every other row from RS) a total of 12-12-13-13-14-14 times.

AT THE SAME TIME dec in each side in towards sleeves (i.e. before first marker and after 2nd marker seen from RS): Dec every 4th row (i.e. every other row from RS): 1 st 12-12-13-13-14-14 times in total.

AT THE SAME TIME dec in each side in towards back piece (i.e. after first marker and before 2nd marker seen from RS): Dec every other row (i.e. every row from RS): 1 st 0-2-2-4-7-9 times in total.

NECK DEC:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm / 19''-19¾''-20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾'', bind off the middle 34-34-36-37-37-38 sts from RS for neck and finish each shoulder separately.

RIGHT SHOULDER:
Continue dec towards sleeve cap as before. After last dec there are 23-24-24-27-28-32 sts on needle (i.e. 17-18-18-19-20-22 shoulder sts + 6-6-6-8-8-10 sts remain at the top on sleeve cap). K 1 row from WS and slip the outermost 6-6-6-8-8-10 sts on sleeve cap on 1 stitch holder.
Continue in garter st back and forth over the 17-18-18-19-20-22 shoulder sts AT THE SAME TIME as sts from sleeve cap is worked tog with sts on needle as follows: K 1 row from RS until 1 st remains on left needle, slip last st over to right needle without working it, slip first and second st from stitch holder back on left needle, pass the slipped st from right needle back on left needle and K these 3 sts tog, turn, tighten yarn and K 1 row from WS, * K 1 row from RS until 1 st remains on left needle, slip last st over to right needle without working it, slip next st from stitch holder back on left needle, pass the slipped st from right needle back on left needle and K these 2 sts tog, turn, tighten yarn and K 1 row from WS *, repeat these 2 rows from *-* until all sts on stitch holder have been worked tog with last st on row, loosely bind off.
Yoke measures approx. 25-26-27-28-29-30 cm / 9¾''-10¼''-10 5/8''-11''-11 3/8''-11¾'' from marker and the entire top measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm / 20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''.

LEFT SHOULDER:
Work as right shoulder but after last dec, slip the outermost 6-6-6-8-8-10 sts on sleeve cap on 1 stitch holder. Beg from WS and K 1 row until 1 st remains on left needle, slip last st over on right needle without working it, slip first and second st from stitch holder back on left needle, pass the slipped st from right needle back on left needle and K these 3 sts tog, turn, tighten yarn and K 1 row from RS, then repeat the 2 rows from *-* as on right shoulder (but with start from WS) until all sts on stitch holder have been worked tog with last st on row, loosely bind off.

FRONT PIECE:
= 72-78-84-91-99-108 sts. Work as back piece and cast on for sleeve caps in each side as on back piece = 128-134-140-151-163-176 sts.
Then dec on front piece and sleeve caps as on back piece but when piece measures 40-42-44-46-48-50 cm / 15¾''-16½''-17¼''-18''-19''-19¾'', bind off the middle 34-34-36-37-37-38 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately.
Continue dec and then work as right and left shoulder on back piece. Yoke measures approx. 25-26-27-28-29-30 cm / 9¾''-10¼''-10 5/8''-11''-11 3/8''-11¾'' from marker and the entire top measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm / 20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams and down along sleeve caps - sew in front loop of outermost st to avoid chunky seams.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 22.08.2014
under TOP (new text): 120-128-144-160-184-208 sts. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work pattern according to diagram A.2. When A.2 has been worked....NOW MEASURES PIECE FROM HERE! Then work in GARTER ST in the round on circular needle - see explanation above.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (62)

country flag Nicole Miller wrote:

Is this top joined in the round right after the case on before the ribbing is worked? Also ate there any edge stitches before chart is started?

20.06.2022 - 05:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Miller, top is worked bottom up, first in the round to the armholes (so that there are no edge stitches when working the diagrams), then you divide piece and finish back and front piece back and forth separately - you will then sew shoulder and sleeve seams. Happy knitting!

20.06.2022 - 08:10

country flag Jackie wrote:

I just sent a question but will do so again as this page reappeared and I don't know if it went through the first time. I love this pattern - the boatneck and cap sleeves - however, I am not advanced enough to make the lacing nor have I ever followed a diagram. Would it be possible for you to send me a correction using only the garter st all the way through? Thank you.

09.09.2020 - 19:01

DROPS Design answered:

See answer below :)

10.09.2020 - 09:28

country flag Jackie wrote:

Hello. I love the shape of this top - the boatneck and the cap sleeves - and have been looking for a pattern exactly like this one. However, I am not advanced enough to make the lacing and have never followed a diagram before. Would it be possible for you to send me a correction, continuing with the garter st all the way through? Thank you. By the way, your patterns are all lovely.

09.09.2020 - 18:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jackie, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every single request - you can will find how to read knitting diagrams here - should you need any individual assistance, your DROPS store can help you even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

10.09.2020 - 09:27

country flag Giorgia wrote:

Grazie , mi sono accorta solo ora della vostra rapida risposta che mi ha tolto il dubbio. Avevo dimenticato che il punto legaccio lavorato in tondo é il risultato di 1 ferro a diritto e 1 a rovescio.

12.10.2019 - 00:58

country flag Giorgia wrote:

Lavorando in tondo coi ferri circolari e quindi lavorando sempre sul dritto del lavoro, come si fa a capire se si è il giro successivo sul rovescio del lavoro quando si devono intrecciare le maglie per gli scalfi?

12.10.2019 - 00:45

country flag Giorgia wrote:

Cosa intendete quando nel paragrafo finale del TOP scrivete:" quando il lavoro misura 10 cm,assicurarsi che il giro successivo sia un giro a rovescio" se lavorando invece in tondo coi ferri circolari si lavora solo sul dritto del lavoro? Come si fa a capire se il giro successivo é a rovescio?

10.10.2019 - 21:55

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Giorgia. Quando lavora il legaccio in tondo (quindi sempre sul diritto del lavoro), lavora un giro a diritto e un giro a rovescio. Deve intrecciare le maglie su un giro lavorato a rovescio. Buon lavoro!

11.10.2019 - 08:25

country flag Giorgia wrote:

Grazie per i vostri bellissimi modelli! Non riesco a capire cosa intendete quando scrivete nelle ultime righe del paragrafo del TOP "Quando il lavoro misura 10 cm – assicurarsi che il giro successivo sia un giro a rov, " Ma lavorando in tondo coi ferri circolari non si lavora sempre sul diritto del lavoro? Come faccio a capire allora se il giro seguente è a rovescio per gli scalfi? Grazie per la vostra risposta

10.10.2019 - 20:05

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Giorgia. Abbiamo modificato leggermente il testo. Il giro deve essere lavorato a rovescio. Buon lavoro!

10.10.2019 - 21:42

country flag Carine wrote:

Is niet mooi wanneer af is Valt veel groter uit zelfs na proeflapje Is precies een zak jammer

06.06.2015 - 16:47

country flag Lisa wrote:

I have knit up several tops in the medium size. I am trying to make sure I select the correct size for me. I am normally a Medium, But the bust size for this pattern seams small for a medium. Would I select the larger size according to the finished bust size? or would that turn out to be too big because the top would stretch out?

01.06.2015 - 16:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lisa, you will find at the bottom of the pattern a measurement chart with all measurements in cm taken flat from side to side. Compare these to a similar garment you have and like the shape to find out the matching size, depending also on how many tight/loose you prefer. convert here cm into inch. Happy knitting!

01.06.2015 - 16:37

country flag Carine wrote:

Graag antwoord op mijn vorige vraag

01.06.2015 - 16:29