DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.20$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Long Nights

Knitted DROPS jacket in garter st with shawl collar in ”Lima”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 146-21
DROPS design: Pattern no li-025
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 98-106-112-122-134-146 cm /
38½"-41¾"-44"-48"-52¾"-57½"
Full length: 72-74-76-78-80-82 cm /
28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾-31½''-32¼''

Materials: DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio
700-750-800-900-1000-1100 g color no 0206, light beige

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 7 mm /US 10.75 - or size needed to get 14 sts x 26 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.20$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

MEASURING TIP:
Measure when piece is flat, it is important not to stretch the piece when measuring.

PATTERN:
Row 1-16: K from RS, K from WS.
Row 17: K from RS.
Row 18 (from WS): * K 2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-*.
Repeat these 18 rows upwards.
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BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 148-156-164-180-196-212 sts on circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75 with Lima. Work PATTERN but work the 14-14-14-15-15-15 sts in each side in garter st on all rows (= front bands).
Continue this pattern until piece measures 43-44-45-46-47-48 cm / 17''-17¼''-17¾''-18''-18½''-19'' - read MEASURING TIP above. Slip the first 40-42-44-48-52-56 sts and the last 40-42-44-48-52-56 sts on stitch holders for front piece = 68-72-76-84-92-100 sts remain on needle for back piece.

BACK PIECE:
= 68-72-76-84-92-100 sts. Continue with PATTERN, AT THE SAME TIME cast on 34-34-34-32-28-26 sts for sleeves (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders) at the end of the next two rows = 136-140-144-148-148-152 sts.
Continue with PATTERN but work the outermost 10 sts in each side in garter st on all rows.
When piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm / 27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½, bind off the middle 16-16-16-18-18-18 sts for neck = 60-62-64-65-65-67 sts remain on each shoulder/sleeve.
Bind off when piece measures 72-74-76-78-80-82 cm / 28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30 3/4''-31½''-32¼''.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 40-42-44-48-52-56 sts. Work band and pattern as before and at the end of next row from RS, cast on 34-34-34-32-28-26 new sts = 74-76-78-80-80-82 sts.
Then work pattern but work the 14-14-14-15-15-15 sts towards mid front and the outermost 10 sts on sleeve in garter st on all rows.
When piece measures 72-74-76-78-80-82 cm / 28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30 3/4''-31½''-32¼'', bind off the outermost 60-62-64-65-65-67 sts from WS = 14-14-14-15-15-15 sts remain on needle for collar.
Work in garter st over these sts with short rows, beg from RS:
* 2 rows back and forth over the first 7 sts, 2 rows over all sts *, repeat from *-* until piece measures 8-8-8-9-9-9 cm / 3"-3"-3"-3½"-3½"-3½" at the shortest. Bind off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed.

POCKETS:
Cast on 25-25-25-28-28-28 sts on needle size 7 mm / US 10.75 with Lima. Work in garter st until piece measures 18-18-18-20-20-20 cm / 7"-7"-7"-8"-8"-8", bind off. Make one more.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder/overarm seams and underarm seams. Sew the collar tog mid back and sew it to the neckline at the back.
Place the pockets on front piece approx. 11-13-15-17-19-21 cm / 4½"-5"-6"-6 3/4"-7½"-8 1/4" from bottom edge and edge to edge with the band (try the jacket on for desired placement).





Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (43)

country flag Peggy Le Terrier wrote:

Je ne comprends ce que voulez dire Tricoter ensuite en point fantaisie, mais tricoter les 14-14-14-15-15-15 m côté milieu devant et les 10 m du bord de la manche au point mousse tous les rangs. Merci pour votre aide

10.12.2022 - 18:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Le Terrier, pour le devant droit, tricotez ainsi, vu sur l'endroit: les 14/15 premières mailles au point mousse, point fantaisie jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 10 m et terminez par 10 m point mousse; pour le devant gauche, commencez sur l'endroit par 10 m point mousse, point fantaisie jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 14-15 m et tricotez les 14-15 dernières m au point mousse. Bon tricot!

12.12.2022 - 09:18

country flag Le Terrier wrote:

Bonjour Pourriez vous m'expliquer comment faire des rangs raccourcis car je suis bloqué pour faire la suite de la veste Merci

05.12.2022 - 16:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Le Terrier, vous trouverez comment tricoter des rangs raccourcis au point mousse: ici, pour la méthode de base, ou bien ici, pour celle avec les mailles enveloppées. Bon tricot!

06.12.2022 - 10:41

country flag Le Terrier wrote:

Bonjour Je souhaiterais faire une ceinture pour ce gilet Quels conseils pourriez vous me donner pour la créer

20.11.2022 - 20:44

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Le Terrier, vous trouverez ici tous nos modèles de veste avec ceinture, vous y trouverez peut-être l'inspiration. Bon tricot!

21.11.2022 - 10:21

country flag Michaela wrote:

Hallo, habe Probleme das Diagram zu lesen. In welche Richtung wird gestrickt? Was ist Vorderteil und was ist Rückenteil bzw. Kragen? Vielen Dank im voraus für Ihre Antwort. Michaela

07.11.2021 - 19:36

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Michaela, die Jacke wird von unten nach oben in einem Teil bis Armausschnitte gestrickt, dann wird jedes Teil (= Rückenteil und beide Vorderteile) separat gestrickt. Kragen wird am Ende von den Vorderteile mit verkürzten Reihen gestrickt. Hier lesen Sie mehr über die Maßskizze. Kann das Ihnen helfen?

08.11.2021 - 07:42

country flag Marie-Anne Cantin wrote:

Bonjour je souhaite réaliser ce modèle mais je trouve curieux qu'un modèle réalisé avec une laine à tricoter en aig4 soit fait avec des aig 7 sans mentionner de doubler le fil. sinon le tricot va être très détendu ! Fayt il doubler la laine ?

23.04.2020 - 22:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Cantin, ce modèle se tricote volontairement avec des aiguilles 7 mais avec 1 seul fil pour obtenir l'effet et la texture souhaitée. Les indications du modèle sont sur la base d'un échantillon de 14 m x 26 rangs = 10 x 10 cm - vous trouverez ici plus d'infos. Bon tricot!

24.04.2020 - 09:04

country flag Torhild Raddum wrote:

Jenta er 1.70 og bruker s/m. Mens oppskrifta sier bakstykket skal felles når den er 74 cm. Jakka som vises på bildet må da være mye lenger enn det ettersom den rekker henne til knærne?

08.03.2020 - 15:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Torhild, Det er en skisse på bunnen av oppskriften som viser all mål i de forskjellige størrelsene. God fornøyelse!

08.03.2020 - 15:35

country flag Carolina wrote:

Ciao ,vorrei realizzare questo capo ma trasformarlo in cappotto Quanti cm.dovrei lavorare fino allo scalfo manica? Sono alta 170cm Grazie

20.09.2019 - 14:11

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Carolina, in questa sede non possiamo darle un aiuto così personalizzato, le consigliamo di rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

20.09.2019 - 15:09

country flag Anne-Lise Lauvstad wrote:

Jeg har bestilt garn til en annen jakke, dvs Lima+Kids silk. Ønsker imidlertid å bruke denne oppskriften heller. Hvis jeg bruker begge trådene,tenkte jeg å bruke pinne 6,5. Må jeg da gå ned på str. Jeg er en M

16.08.2019 - 12:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anne-Lise. Et plagg i Lima (garngruppe B) og Kid-Silk (garngruppe A), vil ikke få den sammen tykkelsen som det er oppgitt i denne oppskriften (Lime= garngruppe B). En strikkefasthet kan være veldig personlig, avhengig av om man strikker løst eller stramt. Anbefaler deg å strikke noen prøvelapper med ulike pinnestørrelser, slik at du får den strikkefastheten som er oppgitt i oppskriften. God Fornøyelse!

23.09.2019 - 10:10

country flag Claire wrote:

Bonjour! je voudrais tricoter ce modèle pour ma fille qui est végane, donc je dois trouver une "laine" synthétique. La Lima, selon l'étiquette, se tricote en aiguilles 4 normalement. Ici le modèle se tricote en no 7, pourquoi ? Quelle grosseur de laine synthétique dois-je prendre pour faire ce modèle, plutôt une laine qui se tricote normalement en 4-5 ou une laine plus épaisse ? Merci de vos conseils.

26.02.2018 - 10:45

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Claire, nous sommes en mesure de pouvoir proposer des modèles gratuits grâce à nos fils à tricoter que nous vendons dans le monde entier. Nous vous remercions de bien vouloir contacter votre magasin DROPS pour toute assistance complémentaire. Merci pour votre compréhension.

26.02.2018 - 12:26

country flag Zoe Davison wrote:

I'm trying to interpret the instructions for the right side row does "Work band and pattern as before and at the end of next row from RS, cast on 34-34-34-32-28-26 new sts = 74-76-78-80-80-82 sts. " this mean that at the end of the next right side row you need to cast on "34" stitches?

18.09.2017 - 15:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Davison, that's correct. Happy knitting!

18.09.2017 - 16:46