DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 89-2
Sizes: 5/6 years - 7/8 years - 9/10 years - 11/12 years - 13/14 years

Finished measurements:
Bust: 70-76-84-90-96 cm [27-5/8" - 29-7/8" - 33" - 35-3/8" - 37.75"]
Hem: 64-70-76-84-90 cm [25.25" - 27-5/8" - 29-7/8" - 33" - 35-3/8"]

Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
100-100-100-100-100 gr nr 29, rose
50- 50-100-100-100 gr nr 11, apricot
50- 50- 50- 50-100 gr nr 34, pink
50- 50- 50- 50- 50 gr nr 40, coral


and use: DROPS VIVALDI from Garnstudio
50- 50- 50- 50-100 gr nr 20, watermelon
50- 50- 50- 50- 50 gr nr 15, cerise
Small amount nr 17, lime, (for crocheted edge)

DROPS 6 mm [US 10] and 7 mm [US 10½] circular and double-pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.
DROPS 4.5 mm [US G/7] crochet hook, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

6 DROPS silver buttons nr 534

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Gauge: 13 sts x 17 rows on larger needles in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm.

Rib: * K 3, P 3 *, repeat * - *.

Buttonband: The buttonbands are knit in garter st – for a neat edge, knit the buttonband sts a little tight. You may wish to knit the buttonband sts on smaller double-pointed needles.

Knitting tips (for raglan shaping):
All decs are made on right side rows. Dec as follows in each transition between sleeve, front and back (start 3 sts before the marker): K 2 tog, K 2 (the marker sits between these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to knit, K 1, psso.

Knitting tip: If the row gauge is not correct, the yoke will not be the right length. If your gauge is too tight, you need to add rows between decs. If your gauge is too loose, you need to have fewer rows between decs.

Buttonholes: Make buttonholes as follows on right buttonband (from edge as seen from the right side):
4 sts garter st, yo, K 2 tog. On the row back, twist and K the yo.
Make buttonholes when the piece measures:
Size 5/6: 3-8-14-19-25-30 cm
Size 7/8: 4-10-15-21-26-32 cm
Size 9/10: 3-9-16-22-29-35 cm
Size 11/12 years: 3-10-16-23-29-36 cm
Size 13/14 years: 3-10-17-24-31-38 cm

Stripe Pattern- Body:
5-6-6-7-7 cm (incl. rib) with 1 strand pink Muskat + 1 strand cerise Vivaldi.
8-9-10-10-10 cm with 1 strand rose Muskat + 1 strand cerise Vivaldi
6-7-7-7-8 cm with 1 strand rose Muskat + 1 strand watermelon Vivaldi
11-11-12-12-13 cm with 1 strand apricot Muskat + 1 strand watermelon Vivaldi
Then knit to finished measurements with 1 strand coral Muskat + 1 strand watermelon Vivaldi.

Stripe Pattern-sleeve:
9-10-11-12-13 cm (incl. rib) with 1 strand pink Muskat + 1 strand cerise Vivaldi
15-16-17-18-19 cm with 1 strand rose Muskat + 1 strand cerise Vivaldi
12-13-14-16-16 cm with 1 strand rose Muskat + 1 strand watermelon Vivaldi
Continue with 1 strand apricot Muskat + 1 strand watermelon Vivaldi until sleeves are put together with Body. Then change to 1 strand coral Muskat + 1 strand watermelon Vivaldi and knit to finished measurements on front, back and sleeve.

Body: Cast on 95-107-113-119-131 sts on smaller circular needles with 1 strand pink Muskat + 1 strand cerise Vivaldi (= 2 strands). Follow Stripe Pattern-Body – see instructions above.
P 1 row (wrong side), then knit the following 3 cm in rib, keeping 4 sts at each front edge in garter st and begin rib with K 3 - see instructions for buttonband above. Make buttonholes on right buttonband.
After the rib change to larger circular needles and stockinette st, decreasing to 92-100-108-116-124 sts evenly spaced on the 1st row.
Place a marker 25-27-29-31-33 sts in from each side (42-46-50-54-58 sts between markers for back). When the piece measures 10 cm inc 1 st at each side of each marker every 10 cm a total of 2 times = 100-108-116-124-132 sts.
When the piece measures 23-25-27-28-29 cm knit the next row as follows (right side row): 24-26-28-29-31 sts = right front, bind off 6-6-6-8-8 sts for armhole, 40-44-48-50-54 sts = back, bind off 6-6-6-8-8 sts for armhole, 24-26-28-29-31 sts = left front.
Lay piece aside and knit the sleeves.

Sleeve: Cast on 28-28-35-35-35 sts on smaller double-pointed needles with 1 strand pink Muskat + 1 strand cerise Vivaldi (= 2 strands); join and place a marker at the join. Follow Stripe Pattern-sleeve – see instructions above.
Start with K 1 row (stockinette st), then 2 rows rib (K 3/ P 4). On the next row dec all P 4 to P 3 = 24-24-30-30-30 sts.
Continue until the rib measures 3 cm. Change to larger double-pointed needles and stockinette st, adjusting (dec if needed) to 22-24-26-26-26 sts on the 1st row.
When the piece measures 6 cm inc 1 st at each side of marker every 7.5-8-9-6.5-6 cm a total of 5-5-5-7-8 times = 32-34-36-40-42 sts.
When the piece measures 38-41-44-48-50 cm bind off 3-3-3-4-4 sts each side of marker = 26-28-30-32-34 sts. Lay piece aside and knit 2nd sleeve.

Yoke: Put the sleeves in on the same circular needles as body where you bound off for armholes = 140-152-164-172-184 sts. Put a marker in each transition between front, back and the sleeve (4 markers). Knit 2-1-1-2-2 rows before beginning shaping.

Raglan shaping: Dec 1 st at each side of all markers (= 8 decs per row) every other row – see knitting tips above – 9-10-11-12-13 times.

Neck: When the piece measures 31-33-36-37-39 cm – adjust so that there are at least 2 rows with the colors in the last stripe before beginning neck shaping (= 1 strand coral Muskat + 1 strand watermelon Vivaldi) – put the outermost 8-8-9-8-9 sts at each side on a st holder for the neck. Then bind off at each neck edge every other row: 2 sts 1-0-0-0-0 time and 1 st 1-3-3-4-4 times.
After all raglan and neck shaping is complete 46-50-52-52-54 sts remain on needles.

Neckband: Pick up approx. 11-15 sts at front neck (incl. sts from st holder) with 1 strand coral Muskat + 1 strand watermelon Vivaldi and put all sts on smaller circular needles = approx. 68-84 sts.
P 1 row (wrong side), decreasing evenly distributed to 44-46-48-50-55 sts, K 1 row (right side), and then P and bind off all sts loosely on the next row – so that the bound off edge will not be too tight, make a yo approx. every 5 sts and bind it off as a st.

Assembly: Sew opening under the sleeve.
Crocheted edge: Crochet 1 row of ch-loops around lower edge of sleeves, around the neck, along both fronts and along bottom edge of Body with lime Vivaldi as follows:
* 1 sc in first st, * ch 5, skip over approx. 1 cm, 1 sc in the next st *, repeat * - * and finish with ch 5 and 1 sl st in first sc at start of row.
Sew on buttons.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (16)

country flag Carina wrote:

Hej! Kan jag använda enbart Drops Muscat utan någon följetråd? Eller bör jag byta till ett annat garn i så fall? Vill ha enbart bomull.

01.03.2024 - 17:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Carina. Nei, da vil ikke oppskriften stemme. Anbefaler deg å bruke vår søkemotor og søke på jakker til barn. Velger du Garngruppe B under Garngruppe kan alle modellene du får opp brukes med DROPS Muskat (men dobbeltsjekk strikkefastheten). Ønsker du tykkere garn, velg Paris. mvh DROPS Design

04.03.2024 - 13:43

country flag Karin Foerster wrote:

146--152

10.09.2022 - 09:26

country flag Sylvie Bérard wrote:

Les manches pour la plus petite taille 5-6 doivent mesurer 38 cm sous le bras. Cependant si je compare à plusieurs de vos autres modèles pour cet âge c`est plutôt 30 cm qui serait assez long; n`est-ce pas une erreur ?

20.05.2022 - 16:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bérard, comparez les mesures du schéma à celles d'un vêtement similaire allant à l'enfant (pensez à bien vérifier également la longueur de l'empiècement) et adaptez la longueur si besoin. Bon tricot!

23.05.2022 - 07:50

country flag Joan Brennan wrote:

Hi With regard to the sleeve instructions:- It says ‘When piece measures 6cm increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve ………….’ What does ‘mid under’ mean precisely? Does it mean on the outer edges which will form the seam of the sleeve or something else? Please clarify.

16.11.2021 - 12:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Brennan, sleeves are worked in the round on double pointed needles, you can increase as follows: work until 1 stitch before the end of the round, increase 1 stitch, knit 2 (marker for beg of round is between these 2 sts), increase 1 stitch. Happy knitting!

16.11.2021 - 13:40

country flag Ada Hernandez wrote:

Hola! Quiero hacer este patrón, pero tengo una lana acrílica más delgada (descrita como super fina) que la que uds sugieren. Mi lana dice que es para agujas o crochet de 2,5-3. Hice el cuadro de tensión y me salió con 27 corridas y 23 puntos... Usé agujas No 3. Estoy pensando en usar agujas más pequeñas ya que el, tejido de muestra igual quedó un poco suelto. Espero me puedan ayudar. Gracias

03.05.2021 - 17:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Ada, Para trabajar con una aguja tan pequeña, tienes que trabajar con más de un hilo o recalcular todos los puntos del patrón. Es dificil poder contestar sin ver el hilo ni la muestra, ten en cuenta que esta labor se trabaja con una aguja de 6 mm y doble hilo, por lo que el resultado final comparado con una aguja tan pequeña va a ser muy diferente.

09.05.2021 - 20:17

country flag Mia Hansen wrote:

Begge garntypene er utgått

28.01.2019 - 17:32

country flag Natise Houston wrote:

It sure does! Thank you so much! Going to see where to purchase the yarn. Have a blessed evening :)

14.04.2017 - 02:22

country flag Natise Houston wrote:

Thank you for responding. I only see the size of the circular needle, not the length. I would like to make it sized 5/6. Please advice. Thank you.

13.04.2017 - 20:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Natise, Since it is a jacket, knit back and forth (except for the sleeves which are knit with dpn's anyway), the normal, 80 cm long circular needle should work well. I hope this helps, happy knitting!

13.04.2017 - 21:21

country flag Natise Houston wrote:

Hi, What length circular needles do you use for this please.

04.04.2017 - 03:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Natise. It depends on what size you are knitting. On the smallest sizes you can choose a smaller size than the largest sizes. You can also see the measurment in the chart at the bottom to choose how long needles you want. Happy Knitting!

04.04.2017 - 09:50

country flag Nadine wrote:

Bonjour Comment réaliser ce modèle aux aiguilles car je ne suis pas du tout à l'aise avec les aiguilles circulaires....je voudrais tellement réaliser ce tricot que je trouve ravissant pour ma petite fille Merci vraiment de votre aide

18.07.2015 - 16:33

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nadine, le dos et les devants se tricotent en allers et retours sur aiguille circulaire, vous pouvez les tricoter sur aiguilles droites de la même façon, pensez à bien vérifier votre tension: vos mailles seront plus serrées. Pour les manches, montez 2 m en plus pour les coutures de chaque côté. Bon tricot!

27.07.2015 - 15:07