DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Lavender Glory

Knitted DROPS jacket with short, wide sleeves, raglan and cable rib in ”Alpaca” and ”Kid-Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 141-15
DROPS design: Pattern no z-616
Yarn group A + A
-----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-88-96-106-116-128 cm /
31½''-34½''-37¾''-41¾''-45¾''-50½"
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm /
22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''

Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
Color no 3800, old pink:
200-200-250-250-300-300 g
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
Color no 05, heather:
100-100-125-125-150-150 g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 5 mm/ US 8 – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 4 mm/ US 6 – for rib and garter st.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS NO 521: 6 pieces

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.

GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
* P 1 round and K 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A-1 and A-2. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

BUTTONHOLES:
Bind off for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from mid front and make 1 YO.
Bind off for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 5, 12, 20, 27, 35 and approx. 42 cm /
2", 4 3/4", 8", 10 5/8", 13 3/4" and approx. 16½".
SIZE M: 5, 13, 21, 29, 37 and approx. 44 cm /
2", 5 1/8", 8 1/4", 11 3/8", 14½" and approx. 17 1/4".
SIZE L: 5, 13, 21, 29, 37 and approx. 45 cm /
2", 5 1/8", 8 1/4", 11 3/8", 14½" and approx. 17 3/4".
SIZE XL: 7, 15, 23, 31, 39 and approx. 47 cm /
2 3/4", 6", 9", 12 1/4", 15 1/4" and approx. 18½".
SIZE XXL: 7, 15, 23, 31, 39 and approx. 48 cm /
2 3/4", 6", 9", 12 1/4", 15 1/4" and approx. 19".
SIZE XXXL: 7, 16, 24, 33, 41 and approx. 50 cm /
2 3/4", 6 1/4", 9½", 13", 16 1/8" and approx. 19 3/4".
NOTE: Work last buttonhole when 2 rows remain before neck bind off.

RAGLAN:
Dec on each side of diagram A-2.
Dec as follows FROM RS:
Before A-2: K 2 tog.
After A-2: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows FROM WS:
Before A-2: P 2 twisted tog.
After A-2: P 2 tog.
----------------------------------------------------------

BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 204-224-244-264-294-324 sts (includes 5 band sts in each side) on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk. Work as follows (1st row = RS): 5 band sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, diagram A-1 until 9 sts remain, work the first 4 sts in A-1 one more time and finish with 5 band sts in garter st.
Continue like this - AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 5-5-5-7-7-7 cm / 2"-2"-2"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4", beg bind off for BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above.
When piece measures approx. 8 cm / 3 1/8'' work next row as follows from RS: 5 sts in garter st, * K 2 tog, K 2 tog, K 2, K 2 tog, K 2 * (i.e. 10 sts become 7 sts), repeat from *-* until 9 sts remain, K 2 tog, K 2 tog and 5 sts in garter st = 145-159-173-187-208-229 sts.
Insert 2 markers in the piece; 38-42-46-49-54-60 sts in from each side (= 69-75-81-89-100-109 sts between markers on back piece).
Switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and continue in stockinette st with bands in garter st as before. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 10-10-11-11-12-12 cm / 4''-4''-4 3/8''-4 3/8''-4¾''-4¾'', dec 1 st on each side of every marker, repeat dec every 2 cm / 3/4'' 3 more times = 129-143-157-171-192-213 sts.
When piece measures 20-20-21-21-22-22 cm / 8''-8''-8¼''-8¼''-8¾''-8¾'', inc 1 st on each side of every marker, repeat inc every 2 cm / 3/4'' 3 more times = 145-159-173-187-208-229 sts.
When piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm / 11¾''-12¼''-12½''-13''-13 3/8''-13¾'', bind off 6-6-8-8-10-10 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. 3-3-4-4-5-5 sts on each side of every marker) = 133-147-157-171-188-209 sts remain on needle, put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on a short circular needle.
Cast on 90-92-96-98-102-104 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk. Insert 1 marker at the beg of round.
Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST in the round - see explanation above!
Switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and continue in stockinette st.
When piece measures 7 cm / 2¾'', bind off 6-6-8-8-10-10 sts mid under sleeve (= 3-3-4-4-5-5 sts on each side of marker) = 84-86-88-90-92-94 sts remain on needle.
Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body = 301-319-333-351-372-397 sts.
Insert 1 marker in every transition between body and sleeves, in all these transitions work diagram A-2 (i.e. with 6 sts on each side of every marker), work the other sts as before but continue to work bands in garter st.
At the same time (on 1st row from RS) dec for RAGLAN on each side of A-2 – see explanation above!
More sts must be dec on sleeves than on body, this is done as follows: On BODY dec every other row: 22-24-25-23-22-21 times and then every row: 0-0-0-6-10-15 times. On SLEEVES dec every other row: 15-16-17-18-19-20 times and then every row: 16 times for all sizes.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 43-45-46-48-49-51 cm / 17"-17 3/4"-18"-19"-19 1/4"-20", slip the outermost 6 sts in each side towards mid front on a stitch holder for neck. Continue to bind off at beg of every row in each side for neck: 1 st every other row 4-4-5-5-6-6 times in each side and then 1 st every 4th row until raglan dec are done (it is ok if the neck bind off overlaps with raglan dec on front piece). After all dec and bind off, approx. 70 to 80 sts remain on needle. Cut the thread.

NECK EDGE:
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Pick up (from RS) approx. 15-20 sts at the front along right side of neck (incl sts on stitch holder), then work the remaining 60-70 sts from body on to needle and finally pick up approx. 15-20 sts at the front along left side of neck (including sts on stitch holder) = approx. 90-110 sts.
K 3 rows back and forth – AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row (= WS) K sts over all the cables tog 2 by 2, i.e. dec 4 sts over every raglan = approx. 74-94 sts remain on needle.
When 3 rows have been worked, loosely bind off with K from RS.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew tog the openings under the sleeves and sew on buttons.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 141-15

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (46)

country flag Brenda Chan wrote:

Yoke question: on sleeves decrease every other row 16 times and then every row: 16 times for all sizes???? I don't understand at all. need help please

17.04.2020 - 23:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Brenda, on the yoke, you should decrease first every other row 15-16-17-18-19-20 times (number depending on teh size you are knitting), then in every row 16 times for each sizes. Happy Knitting!

19.04.2020 - 21:29

country flag Anny Jansen wrote:

Goedemiddag even een vraag over dit vest. moet de kabel ook aan het achterpand gebreid worden? en je begint onder de armen met de kabel he? als ik het goed hebt. dat is vraag 1 vraag 2 is de raglan minderingen moeten aan de goede kant maar dan ook aan de verkeerde kant? is dat niet te veel van het goede? graag hoor ik van u met vriendelijke groet a jansen

18.01.2015 - 14:11

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Anny. Je breit A.2 (de kabel) in alle overgangen op de pas = dus ook op het achterpand. Je mindert eerst alleen op de goede kant (= om de naald) en vervolgens in elke nld = dus ook op de verkeerde kant (maar dit geldt alleen op de mouwen of ook op de panden in de drie grootste maten).

19.01.2015 - 13:48

country flag Sandrine PASCAL wrote:

Bonsoir, J'en suis aux diminutions des manches et du dos et devant. Et j'ai du mal a comprendre vos explications: dois-je diminuer en premier pour le dos et devant et ensuite les manches ou bien le tout en même temps. Merci pour votre réponse

03.06.2014 - 21:03

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Pascal, les diminutions se font différemment pour le dos/les devants et pour les manches, ex en taille S vous diminuez 22 fois tous les 2 rangs pour dos/devant mais pour les manches 15 fois tous les 2 rangs puis 16 fois tous les rangs, c'est-à-dire que pendant les 15 x tous les 2 rangs vous diminuerez partout tous les 2 rangs puis uniquement tous les 2 rangs sur dos/devants mais tous les rangs sur les manches. Bon tricot!

04.06.2014 - 08:53

country flag Pascal wrote:

Bonjour, j'ai un souci avec ce modèle notamment avec l'échantillon. Pour obtenir un échantillon de 17 m x 22 rangs en jersey avec 1 fil Alpaca + 1 fil Kid-Silk tricotés ensemble = 10 x 10 cm je me suis retrouver avec des aiguilles à tricoter n°3. Est-ce moi qui tricote trop lâche ou il y a une erreur dans le numéros d'aiguille?

30.12.2013 - 14:26

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Pascal, la tension habituelle de ces 2 fils tricotés ensemble est bien de 17 m x 22 rangs sur aiguilles 5 (ou la taille nécessaire). N'hésitez pas à consulter notre vidéothèque, elle peut vous aider à apprendre une autre technique qui "régulera" votre tension. Bon tricot!

30.12.2013 - 15:59

country flag Marielou67 wrote:

Ce modèle est impossible à réaliser selon moi. vos explications indiquent (pour ma taille) de faire des manches de 96 mailles, ce qui correspond selon votre échantillon à un tour de bras de 56 cm... pour une taille XL je trouve cela vraiment exagéré, voire surréaliste... j'ai tenté de réduire les choses à 72 mailles, mais alors le raglan est impossible à terminer, malgré mes savants calculs... bref, je vais le transformer à ma façon et suis une fois de plus déçue de vos explications...

14.10.2013 - 20:25

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marielou67, lorsque vous avez besoin d'aide sur un modèle, n'hésitez pas à contacter le magasin où vous avez acheté votre laine. Vous pouvez également vous inscrire sur le forum DROPS. Bon tricot!

15.10.2013 - 08:40

country flag Chrystelle wrote:

Bonjour, je crois qu'il y a une erreur dans ce modèle au niveau des manches. monter 96 mailles (ma taille) pour les manches avec un échantillon de 17 mailles pour 10 cm cela fait une manche de plus de 50 cm de circonférence, cela fait très grand, non ???

14.10.2013 - 20:19

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Chrystelle, le nombre de mailles à monter est correct, les manches sont volontairement un peu large. Bon tricot!

15.10.2013 - 08:39

country flag It V D Eijk wrote:

Je moet 244 st opzetten en na het boord 57 st minderen dat snap ik niet dan klopt de stekenverhouding niet meer ???

07.10.2013 - 11:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi. Het klopt wel. Je begint met boordsteek en dat trekt altijd meer samen dan tricotsteek. Door te minderen blijft het werk hetzelfde breedte houden als je doorgaat in tricotsteek.

07.10.2013 - 21:04

country flag Kitty wrote:

In de omschrijving van de pas staat in de 4e regel: MEERDER meer st op de mouw dan op het lijf. Ik neem aan dat dit MINDER moet zijn?

14.12.2012 - 14:40

DROPS Design answered:

U heeft gelijk. Het is aangepast. Bedankt voor de reactie.

15.12.2012 - 17:18

Martina wrote:

Ich habe das Jäckchen in grün gestrick und bin seit einer Woche stolze Besitzerin! Wirklich ein tolles Modell.

03.11.2012 - 16:23

MaFrançoise wrote:

Voici un beau modèle que pensez-vous de l'alpaca bouclé pour le réaliser ???

26.08.2012 - 12:17

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mafrançoise, 2 fils du groupe A = 1 fil du groupe C. Pensez à tricoter votre échantillon pour vérifier les mesures et la visibilité des torsades. Bon tricot !

27.08.2012 - 09:06