DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 78-2
Sizes: XS/S - M - L/XL - XXL
Finished measurements: 78-92-106-120 cm
[30.75" - 36.25" - 41.75" - 47.25"]
On account of the pattern the garment will appear smaller than indicated on the diagram.

Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
Without sleeve:
300-350-400-450 gr nr 44, brown.
With sleeve:
400-450-500-550 gr nr 44, brown.

DROPS 5 mm [US 8] circular and double-pointed needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Gauge: 17 sts x 22 rows = 10 x 10 cm in stockinette st.

Rib: * K 2, P 4 *, repeat from * - *.

Pattern: See chart. The pattern is seen from the right side.

Garter st, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.

Knitting tips (for armhole):
All decs are made from right side.
Without sleeve: Dec inside 3 edge sts knit as follows from edge (as seen from the right side): K 3
With sleeve: Dec inside 2 edge sts knit as follows from edge (as seen from the right side): K 2
After edge sts: Slip 1 st as if to knit, K 1, psso. Before edge sts: K 2 tog.

Body: If there are different measurements or numbers for the version with or without sleeve, instructions for the version without sleeve will come before ( ) and the version with sleeve will be inside ( ). If the instructions are the same, there will not be ( ).
Cast on 132-156-180-204 sts on circular needles; join and knit rib. Place a marker at each side in the center of a K 2 rib (there will be 66-78-90-102 sts between markers).
Read entire next section before knitting:
When the piece measures 19-21-23-25 cm knit Pattern 1 over the 20 sts at center front (knit the remaining sts the same as before). After Pattern 1 knit rib over all sts.

Without sleeve: At the same time when the piece measures 33-35-36-38 cm knit 4 rows garter st over 10 sts at each side (= 5 sts each side of marker), then bind off the center 6 sts at each side for armhole. Knit each side separately.

With sleeve: At the same time when the piece measures 34-36-37-39 cm bind off 8 sts at each side for armhole (= 4 sts each side of marker). Knit each side separately.

Front: = 60-72-84-96 (58-70-82-94) sts. Keep 2 (1) sts in garter st at each armhole edge and dec 1 st for armhole at each side every other row 0-6-6-12 times - see knitting tips = 60-60-72-72 (58-58-70-70) sts. When the piece measures 44-47-50-53 cm put the center 12 sts on a st holder for the neck. Then bind off at each neck edge every other row: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 4 times = 16-16-22-22 (15-15-21-21) sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off in pattern when the piece measures 52-55-58-61 cm.

Back: = 60-72-84-96 (58-70-82-94) sts. Bind off for armhole as on front. When the piece measures 50-53-56-59 cm put the center 24 sts on a st holder for the neck. Then bind off 2 sts at each neck edge on the next row = 16-16-22-22 (15-15-21-21) sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off in pattern when the piece measures 52-55-58-61 cm.

Sleeve: Cast on 48-48-54-54 sts on double-pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit rib, with marker in the center of a K 2 rib. When the piece measures 5-4-3-2 cm inc 1 st each side of the K 2 with marker every 10-5-5-3 rows a total of 3-5-6-8 times - P the increased sts = 54-58-66-70 sts. When the piece measures 17-16-16-14 cm bind off 4 sts each side of marker and knit back and forth on needles. Bind off for sleeve cap at each side every other row: 2 sts 3-2-3-3 times and 1 st 1-2-2-5 times, then bind off 2 sts at each side until the piece measures 23-24-24-25 cm, then bind off 3 sts at each side 1 time. Bind off the remaining sts, the piece measures approx. 24-25-25-26 cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams.
Neckband: Pick up 72 sts (divisible by 6, incl. sts on st holders) around the neck on double-pointed needles; join and knit rib - match up rib at center front and center back. Bind off in pattern when the collar measures approx. 8 cm.
Sew in sleeves.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from RS, purl from WS
symbols = purl from RS, knit from WS
symbols = Put 2 sts on cable needle in back of work, K 2, P 2 from cable needle
symbols = Put 2 sts on cable needle in front of work, P 2, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = Put 2 sts on cable needle in back of work, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Susanna wrote:

Hi there! I'm not totally clear on the finished measurements. Is size XS/S 52 cm long or 78? Thanks so much for your help, I'm new to knitting and don't yet know the ins and outs.

12.11.2023 - 05:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Susanna, the measurements at the top are wrong and outdated; the correct measurements are the ones in the schematic, at the end of the pattern instructions. So the finished length is 52cm. Happy knitting!

12.11.2023 - 21:07

country flag Le Terrier wrote:

Bonjour Comment tricoter ce modèle avec aiguille droite et non circulaire Merci

09.10.2023 - 19:22

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour, Ce modèle se tricote en rond et, donc, il faut le tricoter avec aiguilles circulaires. Bon tricot!

10.10.2023 - 08:58

country flag Helle Saniel-Nielsen wrote:

Er i gang med mønster M1 over de 20 midterste masker foran. Jeg har 78 m. og der skal således være 29 m. på hver side af M1. Snoninger starter forskudt for ribmønstret og det bliver helt forkert. M1 skal vel starte over de 2 retmasker og ikke over en vr.maske? Vh Helle

24.01.2023 - 10:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Helle. Vrangborden strikkes som 2 rett og 4 vrang, og du skal sette 2 merketråder midt mellom 2 rett masker. 1. merketråden blir da mellom 1. og 2. maske på omgangen (altså ikke starten på omgange, men 1 maske etter starten) og 2. merketråd settes etter 78 masker fra 1. merketråd. Når du skal strikke M.1 starter du 29 masker etter 1. merketråden og da strikkes det 2 rett som går de 2 rette fra vrangborden og de 4 vrangmaskene i M.1 går over de 4 vrangmaskene fra vrangborden osv. mvh DROPS Design

30.01.2023 - 10:09

country flag Nicky wrote:

Zijn er bij top zonder mouw langs het armsgat 2 av steken of ook nog een kansteek? In beschrijving staat nl zonder mouw 2 av steken (en met mouw 1 av steek). Echter bij breitips steken minderen wordt over 3 (resp. 2) kantsteken gesproken? Waar komt die extra steek vandaan of is het een typefout, moet bij breitips ook 2 (resp. 1) kantst. staan?

22.04.2022 - 20:15

country flag Carol MacDonald wrote:

Pattern 1 is NOT highlighted on the pattern. Is it: Put 2 sts on cable needle in back of work, K 2, P 2 from cable needle? I'm A.D.D and have trouble reading patterns, I need every detail explained - thanks

02.08.2020 - 16:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Carol, Row 1 in Pattern 1 is K2, P4, place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, P2, K2 from cable needle, place 2 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, K2, P2 from cable needle, P4 and K2, Hope this helps and happy knitting!

03.08.2020 - 07:14

country flag Allinson wrote:

What technique do you recommend for joining Paris yarn - I've just finished this garment & would like to knit it again Thank you

11.05.2020 - 13:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Allinson, there are several techniques to switch a ball: double knot; russian join, do not hesitate to ask your DROPS store, they might have even more techniques for you. Happy knitting!

11.05.2020 - 16:33

country flag Allinaon wrote:

Hi, I love this design. Is it possible to use circular needle/s for the sleeves instead of double pointed ones?

13.10.2017 - 13:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Allinaon, sure you can even use the magic loop method with a longer circular needle. Happy knitting!

13.10.2017 - 15:07

country flag DROPS Deutsch wrote:

Ja, zuerst rund und danach am Armloch teilen.

07.01.2011 - 12:09

country flag Caro wrote:

Wird der Körper rund gestrickt oder hin und rück? Vielen Dank für die Antwort!

07.01.2011 - 11:17

country flag Marilyn wrote:

Pattern #78 - Model 2 I am knitting in the round and the rib pattern is as follows: Row 1: Knit 2, Purl 4.... Row 2: Purl 2, Knit 4.... My question is since I am on a circular there is no wrong side when I start the 2nd row. Therefore, looking at the first 2 knits it says to purl 2 and then knit 4 (the purl 4), etc. This doesn't seem to be following the rib as shown on the model. Is it possible the ribbing was written for straight needles and not circular? My guess is that I should be just repeating Row 1 for the rib - or Ro2 2 Purl 2, Knit 4? Any help you can pass on to me would be appreciated. Marilyn

16.07.2006 - 17:56