Married By Morning

Knitted DROPS asymmetric jacket with bell edge and lace pattern in "Vivaldi". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 127-6
DROPS design: Pattern no OO-073
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 86-98-98-108-118-130 cm /
33 7/8"-38½"-38½"-42½"-46½"-51"
Full length: 69-71-73-76-79-83 cm /
27 1/8"-28"-28 3/4"-30"-31"-32 3/4"

Materials: DROPS VIVALDI from Garnstudio
Color no 34, light powder pink:
200-250-250-300-300-350 g

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 5 mm / US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 24 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4 mm / US 6 - for M.2.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 – along collar edge.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON w/holes, NO 522: 3 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Vivaldi
DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle/double pointed needles):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 to M.5. The diagram shows the pattern from RS.

DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to sides of body):
All dec are done from RS!
Beg 3 sts before st with marker and work as follows: K 3 tog, 2 YO, K 1 (= st with marker), 2 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso (= 2 sts dec). On next row slip one of the 2 YOs off the needle and P the other.

DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to neckline):
Dec for neckline on inside of 6 band sts in garter st. All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows after band st: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows 2 sts before band st: K 2 tog.

INCREASE TIP (applies to collar):
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next round K YO twisted, i.e. work in the back loop of st instead of front to avoid holes.

BUTTON HOLES:
Bind off for button holes on right front band. 1 BUTTON HOLE = K tog 3rd and 4th st from edge and make 1 YO.
Bind off for button holes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 28, 36, 44 cm / 11",14¼",17½".
SIZE M: 29, 37, 45 cm / 11¼",14½",17¾".
SIZE L: 30, 38, 46 cm / 11¾",15",18¼".
SIZE XL: 32, 40, 48 cm / 12½",15¾",19".
SIZE XXL: 34, 42, 50 cm / 13¼",16½",19¾".
SIZE XXXL: 36, 44, 52 cm / 14¼",17½",20¾".

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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Cast on 957-993-1053-1149-1221-1317 sts (includes 6 band sts each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Vivaldi.
Work first row from RS as follows: 6 band sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above - * diagram M.1 (= 9 sts), P 3 *, repeat from *-* until 15 sts remain and finish with M.1 and 6 band sts in GARTER ST. Continue with pattern like this - NOTE: the 3 sts between every M.1 is worked K from WS and P from RS.
After M.1 325-337-357-389-413-445 sts remain on needle and a bell edge has been worked. Insert 2 markers in the piece; in the 84th-87th-92nd-100th-106th-114th st from each side (= 157-163-173-189-201-217 sts between sts with markers on back piece). Work stockinette st with 6 sts in GARTER ST each side while AT THE SAME TIME dec 2 sts at markers in each side - READ DECREASE TIP 1 (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec on every other row a total of 42-43-44-47-49-52 times upwards = 157-165-181-201-217-237 sts on needle.
NOTE: Remember BUTTON HOLES - see explanation above - on right front band and REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
After last dec, the piece measures approx. 40-41-42-44-46-49 cm / 15 3/4"-16 1/8"-16½"-17 1/4"-18"-19 1/4". Remove the markers in the sides. On next row from RS switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Work M.2 with 6 band sts in each side as before while AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row, dec 16-10-12-16-15-14 sts evenly (do not dec over bands) = 141-155-169-185-202-223 sts. NOTE: On 7th row in M.2 K last st before band.
AT THE SAME TIME on last row in M.2 (= from WS) adjust the no of sts to 137-157-167-187-207-227 (do not inc/dec over the bands). Insert 2 markers in the piece after 36-41-46-51-56-61 sts from each side (= 65-75-75-85-95-105 sts between markers on back piece).
Switch back to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and work next row from RS as follows: 6 band sts, work M.3 until 6 sts remain and finish with 6 band sts.

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING:
Continue pattern as explained above.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 45-46-47-49-51-54 cm / 17 3/4"-18"-18½"-19 1/4"-20"-21 1/4", inc 1 st for collar inside first and 1 st inside second band st in each side towards mid front - READ INCREASE TIP! (= 2 sts inc in each side).
On next row work 2 rows in garter st only over the outermost 8 sts towards mid front (do not work the other sts on needle). Then work one row over all sts and then work 2 rows garter st only over the outermost 8 sts in the other side.
Continue to work over all sts again while AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st inside the outermost band st in each side as follows: Inc on every other row a total of 4-6-8-8-8-8 times, on every 4th row a total of 6-6-6-6-7-7 times and then on every 8th row a total of 4-4-4-4-5-5 times = a total of 16-18-20-20-22-22 sts inc for collar (= 22-24-26-26-28-28 collar sts).
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 46-47-48-50-52-55 cm / 18"-18½"-19"-19 3/4"-20½"-21 5/8", inc 1 st in the sides on both sides of markers (= 4 sts inc) - work the inc sts in stockinette st. Repeat the inc in each side on every other row a total of 4-4-4-3-3-3 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 48-49-50-52-54-57 cm / 19"-19 1/4"-19 3/4"-20½"-21 1/4"-22½", dec 1 st for neckline towards mid front - READ DECREASE TIP 2. Repeat dec on every other row a total of 2-2-4-4-5-5 times, on every 4th row a total of 2-2-4-5-5-6 times and then on every 6th row a total of 2-2-3-3-3-3 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 50-51-52-54-56-59 cm / 19 3/4"-20"-20½"-21 1/4"-22"-23 1/4", bind off 6 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. 3 sts on both sides of both markers) and finish each piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 67-77-77-85-95-105 sts. Continue with the pattern as before while AT THE SAME TIME bind off for armhole at beg of every row in each side as follows: 2 sts 1-2-1-3-4-5 times and 1 st 1-3-3-2-4-5 times = 61-63-67-69-71-75 sts. NOTE: work sts that do not fit the pattern in stockinette st when binding off for armholes. When piece measures 67-69-71-74-77-81 cm / 26 3/8"-27 1/8"-28"-29 1/8"-30 3/8"-32", bind off the middle 15-15-15-17-19-21 sts for neckline and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to bind off 1 st on the next row from the neckline = 22-23-25-25-25-26 sts remain on the shoulder. Continue to work until piece measures 69-71-73-76-79-83 cm / 27 1/8"-28"-28 3/4"-30"-31"-32 3/4" and LOOSELY bind off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Continue inc for collar and dec for neckline as before while AT THE SAME TIME binding off for armholes at the beg of every row from side as on back piece. After all inc and bind offs are done, there are 44-47-51-51-53-54 sts on needle. When piece measures 69-71-73-76-79-83 cm / 27 1/8"-28"-28 3/4"-30"-31"-32 3/4", bind off the outermost 22-23-25-25-25-26 sts at beg of row from side for shoulder = 22-24-26-26-28-28 sts remain on needle (= collar). Work rest of row. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work garter st back and forth over collar as follows: * 2 rows in garter st over all sts, 2 rows in garter st only over the outermost 14-16-18-18-20-20 sts *, repeat from *-* until collar measures approx. 7-7-7-8-8-9 cm / 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3½" in the most narrow part (it will then measure approx. 14-14-14-16-16-18 cm / 5½"-5½"-5½"-6 1/4"-6 1/4"-7" at the widest), LOOSELY bind off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 110-110-120-120-120-130 sts on double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 with Vivaldi. K 1 round, then work next round as follows: * M.5 (= 7 sts), P 3 *, repeat from *-* the entire round. Continue the pattern like this. After M.5 44-44-48-48-48-52 sts remain on needle and a bell edge has been worked. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting the no of sts to 45-45-47-47-49-51. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. Work next round as follows: 1-1-2-2-3-4 sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above - M.4A (= 6 sts), M.4B over the next 28 sts, M.4C (= 9 sts) and 1-1-2-2-3-4 sts in GARTER ST. Continue the pattern like this. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 15-15-15-15-17-16 cm / 6"-6"-6"-6"-6 3/4"-6 1/4", inc 2 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. 1 st each side of marker). Repeat inc every 6-4½-4-3-2-2 cm / 2 3/8"-1 3/4"-1½"-1 1/8"-3/4"-3/4" a total of 6-7-8-10-12-13 times = 57-59-63-67-73-77 sts. NOTE: Work inc sts in garter st at M.4, in pattern at M.2 and in stockinette st at M.3 until they fit the pattern again.
AT THE SAME TIME when M.4 has been worked 1½ time vertically, i.e. finish after 12th round in M.4, switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6. Work M.2. NOTE: On 7th round in M.2 K last st on round. After M.2 switch back to double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8. Then work M.3. NOTE: Arrow in diagram marks mid on top of sleeve, count outwards. When piece measures 48-46-46-45-43-42 cm / 19"-18"-18"-17 3/4"-17"-16½" (NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder width), bind off 6 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. 3 sts on each side of marker) and then work sleeve back and forth on needle. Continue with the pattern as before while AT THE SAME TIME binding off at beg of every row in each side as follows: 2 sts 3-2-2-2-2-2 times and 1 st 3-6-6-7-10-11 times. Continue to bind off 2 sts at beg of every row in each side until sleeve measures 55 cm / 21½'' in all size. Then bind off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows before binding off all sts, piece measures approx. 56 cm / 22''. Knit 1 more sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew the collar tog mid back, sew edge to edge in front loop of outermost st, make sure the seam is not tight. Sew collar to neckline in the back of neck. Sew on buttons.

CROCHET BORDER ALONG COLLAR:
Work on hook size 4 mm / G/6 with Vivaldi. Beg from WS at the bottom of collar on left front piece, work as follows: Work 1 sc in first ridge (2 rows in garter st), * ch 4, 1 dc in the first of the ch 4, skip 1 ridge, 1 sc in next ridge *, repeat from *-* along the entire collar. Fasten off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 loose YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (96)

country flag Ingun Stræde wrote:

Hei! Har lyst å strikke denne, men lurer på en ting: På bildet ser det ut som om jakken er lengre bak enn foran. Men når jeg ser på mønsteret, ser det ut for meg at det er samme lengde rundt hele jakken. Er det bare jeg som blir litt lurt av bilde, eller er den faktisk lengre bak? Mvh Ingun

05.03.2022 - 10:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ingun, det er vidden i siderne som gør at bagstykket ser længere ud :)

09.03.2022 - 10:10

country flag Annette Jakobsen wrote:

Hej. Hvordan strikke man klokkekanten?

07.06.2018 - 08:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Annette, klokkekanten er det første du strikker når du har slået de 957-993-1053-1149-1221-1317 m op og strikker M.1 ifølge opskriften. God fornøjelse!

08.06.2018 - 11:25

country flag Minna wrote:

Thank you Anne for commenting on the mistake in Finnish instructions about the sleeve pattern: other languages say that when we have worked pattern 4 *1 1/2* times we switch to needle size 4, but in Finnish instructions it is *1/2* times.

17.11.2017 - 16:39

country flag Jette Andersen wrote:

Hej Drops. I M3 er der en pil hvad betyder den? jeg kan ikke få maskeantallet til at stemme med at der skal være 6m til slut!! efterfulgt af 6 kant masker Strikker en str. S Venlig hilsen Jette

26.04.2015 - 19:11

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Jette. Pilen angiver midten af aermet - du skal taelle ud derfra naar du er saa vidt. Du skal slutte naar der er 6 masker (de 6 kantmasker), dvs, strikker du f.eks. str S har du 137 m - 12 kantmasker = 125 at strikke M.3 over. Det er 12 hele gentagelser (120 + 6 kantmasker strikket), saa slut af med 5 m af M.3 (dvs, en halv gentagelse af mönstret) og 6 kantmasker.

29.04.2015 - 14:18

country flag Stephanie wrote:

Bonjour, je suis en train de faire les augmentations du col mais au total ca fait 14 et non 16 comme indiqué (taille S: 4+6+4=14!) faut il rajouter 2 augmentation quelque part? Merci

19.12.2014 - 16:32

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Stéphanie, on augmente la 1ère fois 2 m pour le col, à 1 m et à 2 m des bords de chaque côté, puis juste 1 seule maille: 4x tous les 2 rangs + 6 x tous les 4 rangs et 4x tous les 8 rangs, soit les 2 premières + 14 x 1 m = 16 m. Bon tricot!

19.12.2014 - 17:20

country flag Corinne Horowitz wrote:

Hello! My daughter loves the pattern but does not want a bell edge, she prefers a straight one. Is there a way to modify the pattern to start it at the straight point on the hips? Thanks for your help.

21.10.2014 - 22:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Horowitz, if you rather like the jacket without the flounce (= diagram M.1), what about casting on the number of sts you get after M.1 has been worked ? Remember the 6 cm of M.1 that should be also worked in height. Happy knitting!

22.10.2014 - 12:51

country flag Midge Bussing wrote:

Thank you, I was trying to make it harder. I am finding that some direction are different. Midge

06.09.2014 - 13:59

country flag Midge Bussing wrote:

I am working on the pattern DROPS 127-6. I am ready to start M.2 diagram. I'm stumped on the K from RS, P from WS and P from RS, K from WS. Does this make a twisted stitch. Thank you Midge

05.09.2014 - 16:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Bussing, in the diagram 1 square = 1 st x 1 row. A white square in diagram = 1 stocking st, ie you work this st K from RS and P from WS. A dot in a square means to work the st P from RS and K from WS (= reverse stocking st). Happy knitting!

05.09.2014 - 18:18

country flag José wrote:

Ik krijg niet helemaal duidelijk de mindering 1, voor de zijkanten van het lijf. Gaat de 3st samen,2omslag,1r,2omslag,1r afh,2r samen, afgehaalde steek achter elkaar? En doe je dit dus bij beide mankeerders? Of splits je het?

21.07.2014 - 20:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi José. Je breit aan beide zijkanten (= markeerders) en je splitst het werk niet. Je begint 3 st voor de markeerder en breit: brei 3 st samen, 2 omsl, 1 st r (= st met markeerdraad), 2 omsl, 1 st r afh, 2 st recht samen, afgeh st overh (= 2 st geminderd). Dus dan heb je 2 st gemindert + een dubbele omslag aan beide kanten van de st met de markeerder.

22.07.2014 - 20:16

country flag Haldis Røe wrote:

Hei. Har prøvd å få neon til å strikke denne for meg, men de sier at oppskriften er feil. Kan noen strikke denne for meg??

02.06.2014 - 14:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Haldis. Der skulle ikke vaere feil i opskriften. Men mener I at have fundet en feil - eller er der noget som I ikke forstaar ved opskriften er I velkomne til at spörge, men fortael gerne hvor i opskriften det gaar galt :-)

03.06.2014 - 14:50